Buying a DSLR Camera

Taking the step from point-and-shoot to DSLR (Digital Single-Lens Reflex) camera can be intimidating. Choosing a camera body, then working out which DSLR lenses are best for you and your photography style, is overwhelming.

I recently made the jump after being asked to take some print-publishable photos. My choices are explained below - matching my photography style.

But I've also included many questions and tips to help make your DSLR buying decisions easier - these were the questions I asked, and tips I followed to reach my decisions.

The Canon 650D is light, fits wonderfully in my hand, but this lens weighs twice as much! Try holding a few models with a heavier lens attached to see which one fits you the best.
The Canon 650D is light, fits wonderfully in my hand, but this lens weighs twice as much! Try holding a few models with a heavier lens attached to see which one fits you the best. | Source

Choosing a DSLR brand

Both Canon and Nikon have a wide range of lenses available, including good macro and zoom lenses. Although Canon is often rated better for the strong zoom lenses (300mm and higher), used for wildlife photography.

I previously had a Canon Powershot S3 IS, with fantastic image stabilization, a great super-macro function and good zoom range. I was familiar with Canon's menu structure, so I knew the learning curve would be slightly less than if I switched brands.

But, most importantly for me, Canon's image stabilization is reportedly the best between all of the main brands. I shake a lot when taking photos, so a good system that compensates for my shakiness is a must-have.

Watch out!

Anti-shake does not necessarily mean image stabilisation - the ISO is usually increased to get a faster shutter speed (thereby reducing the 'shake').

If you need image stabilisation - test different cameras to see which system (in-body or in-lens), and which brand's technology works best for you.

When choosing a brand

  • Are you already comfortable with a camera manufacturer's menu system and camera functions?
  • Do you want to have the widest range of lenses available? (Canon / Nikon)
  • Do you want to photograph birds or wildlife from extreme distances? (Canon)
  • Do you need strong image stabilisation? (Both Canon and Nikon have in-lens images stabilisation, Sony, Pentax and other brands sometimes have in-camera stabilisation)

Canon 650D with the two lenses I use most often - a 100mm macro and 70-300 telephoto zoom.
Canon 650D with the two lenses I use most often - a 100mm macro and 70-300 telephoto zoom. | Source

Tip: Set a budget

You will need to spend on a camera body and one or more lenses, plus accessories, so the costs can add up quickly. Setting a limit is the best way to make your choices easier!

Even though I had set a rough limit, the lenses I chose pushed me far over. That's before I've purchased the extra lens to complete my set!

Choosing a DSLR camera body

DSLR camera bodies typically go out of date in a couple of years, with upgraded and new models being released from most of the major camera manufacturers.

Sensors are improved, functions are added, and camera bodies become lighter with larger back viewing screens.

Tip: Don't immediately go for the highest megapixels - most DSLR cameras have very high megapixel (MP) counts, much better than most film DLSRs!

Nikon
Canon
Sony
Full frame (FX lens)
Full frame (EF lens)
Full frame (α lens)
Crop sensor - 1.52x (DX lens)
Crop sensor - 1.3x (EF-S lens)
Crop sensor - 1.52x (DT lens)
 
Crop sensor - 1.6x (EF-S lens)
 

Full frame vs crop sensor

One choice you should make early on is which image sensor format you want to use.

Full frame sensors are much better for professional photography, especially when printing photos as posters.

Full-frame sensors are equivalent to 35mm print film, whereas the crop sensors keep the middle of the photo and 'throw away' the outside edges to varying degrees.

Crop factor explained

Full frame sensors are better for wide-angle, whereas crop sensors allow you to zoom in a little more with telephoto lenses.

Wildlife and sports photographers may like crop-sensor cameras to get the extra zoom distance, whereas landscape photographers prefer full frame cameras.

Notes

  • Full frame lenses work on crop sensor cameras, but lenses designed for crop sensor bodies can damage full frame camera sensors - the back of the crop lens is much closer to the sensor.
  • Full frame cameras are typically much more expensive than crop sensors. As I decided to spend more on my lenses, and less on the camera body, I was looking at the 1.6x crop variety.

Camera ergonomics - a comfortable grip

I had two DSLR camera bodies in mind when I started my search - Canon's new Rebel T4i (650D) or their older 7D. They both have the same sensor, but the software in the T4i is much improved with a strong focus on video.

When I held both of the cameras, I found the T4i fit my hand perfectly. None of my fingers mashed unintentionally against buttons when gripping the camera. Plus, the T4i had the rotating screen, which I loved on my old Powershot S3 IS.

The 7D fit in my hand less well, and was much heavier, something that I wanted to avoid as I get sore hands easily.

The mode-wheel on the Canon 650D (Rebel T4i) - lots of automatic and creative modes to choose from.
The mode-wheel on the Canon 650D (Rebel T4i) - lots of automatic and creative modes to choose from. | Source

Other features to look for in a digital SLR camera body

  • high-speed shooting (burst mode and fast shutter speeds) for sport and action shots.
  • good microphone and an autofocus (AF) that tracks your subject when shooting video.
  • a good back screen (rotatable) - lets you shoot even when holding the camera far away from your eyes!
  • a large range of ISO settings - useful for low-light photography.
  • a range of 'auto' modes - automatically chooses good camera settings for night, portrait, landscape, macro, sports, and more.
  • a good, pop-over built in flash - a non-powerful flash is as good as having none, as is one that casts shadows because it doesn't pop up high enough above the camera body.

Tips when choosing a camera body

  • Decide what sensor type suits you - full frame or crop.
  • Go to a store and hold the camera. Note where your fingers rest, if you can access the buttons easily. Will you get tired from the weight, or is the body of the camera putting extra pressure on a sensitive spot?
  • If you want the camera for travelling, a lighter crop-sensor camera body and a flexible kit lens may be a good choice.

    Note: The new mirror-less/micro four-thirds (mFT) and other 'third generation' cameras, with interchangeable lenses are often favoured by travellers because they are light and flexible, although some report a much lower image quality.

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Macro photography - high ISO for low light conditions.Food photography - high ISO for low light conditions.Wildlife photography - fast shutter speeds to capture quick movements.Landscape photography - high megapixel count for large-sized prints.Night-time photography - high ISO for low light.
Macro photography - high ISO for low light conditions.
Macro photography - high ISO for low light conditions. | Source
Food photography - high ISO for low light conditions.
Food photography - high ISO for low light conditions. | Source
Wildlife photography - fast shutter speeds to capture quick movements.
Wildlife photography - fast shutter speeds to capture quick movements. | Source
Landscape photography - high megapixel count for large-sized prints.
Landscape photography - high megapixel count for large-sized prints. | Source
Night-time photography - high ISO for low light.
Night-time photography - high ISO for low light. | Source

What you want to photograph will influence your camera choice

  • Macro, portraits, food and night shots - you need a good ISO range for low light.
  • Wildlife / sports - you need very fast shutter speeds, with a burst mode, and possibly weather sealing to protect against moisture, dust and sand.
  • Concerts - both a high ISO range and very fast shutter speeds to capture action in low light.
  • Landscape - very high pixel count for producing high quality, large prints, and a good ISO range. You may also want to have built-in HDR capabilities.
  • Travel - something light, easy to travel with, and robust.
  • Video - some DSLR cameras these days can shoot HD video with good quality sound capture and an auto-focus that can track your subject.

Tips for new DSLR owners

Camera gear review sites

Read lots of reviews both by professional photographers, and on Amazon, but always take them with a grain of salt.

Look at the sample pictures taken with various lenses, especially on sites that discuss the negative points of the cameras.

DPReview - the go-to site for in-depth reviews and same photos. They are a little slow in reviewing newer gear though!

Ken Rockwell - with reviews of many lenses and cameras, both pro-level and consumer level, although he does seem to prefer Nikon. He provides many sample photos, using the same subject matter - great for making comparisons!

Digital Photography School - with many free tutorials and reviews of gear from both enthusiasts and professional photographers. They also have an easy to follow, excellent guide to going professional with your photography, with tips covering both gear and publishing.

The Digital Picture - equipment buying guides focusing on photography style. With a definite focus on Canon gear, with much less detail in the Nikon reviews.

A few necessary accessories for me to start with - camera sensor cleaning kit, Gorillapod, rocket air-blower and a couple of lens filters.
A few necessary accessories for me to start with - camera sensor cleaning kit, Gorillapod, rocket air-blower and a couple of lens filters. | Source

DSLR camera accessoires

I'm still adding accessories, but doing it slowly, researching each addition thoroughly. This is where a lot of the budget can 'disappear' to if you aren't careful.

  • Software - management and editing software that can handle large raw files is a must, such as Photoshop Lightroom, Corel Aftershot Pro, or Apple Aperture.

    The free Gimp may handle raw files from older cameras, but it can't yet deal with mine.
  • Bag(s) - the search for the perfect bag is the bane of photographers everywhere. Lowepro are considered one of the best protective brands for camera bags.

    It's best to see the bags in person, before you make a decision though!
  • Hand-strap - to reduce fatigue when gripping the camera, especially as I usually walk around with my camera in my hand (not around my neck).

  • Cleaning kits - sensor cleaning kits, including an air-blower and wet sensor cleaning swabs are a must.
  • Tripod - I have a Gorillapod, which is fine when I can use a tabletop and my macro lens, but I'll need something taller and stronger for the zoom lens, but light enough to take hiking.

    A full sized tripod is a must for landscape photography, and possibly for portraits.
  • Flash units and other lighting equipment - stand alone flashes that can be positioned around the room and controlled remotely can help when taking portrait or other photos indoors.
  • Extra batteries and memory cards - these let you take photographs for longer, especially important when travelling.

Perhaps more important than buying the camera body

Choosing the right DSLR lenses!

Once you have chosen your camera body, you need to choose which lenses are right for you.

Follow this guide to buying the right digital SLR lenses - it could stop you from making the wrong decisions, save you time and money!

Canon's 100mm f/2.8L IS USM macro - this lens was a definite for me - I love macro!
Canon's 100mm f/2.8L IS USM macro - this lens was a definite for me - I love macro! | Source

Your experiences and tips

How did you decide on your camera body when you upgraded from a point and shoot to a DSLR?

Did you buy any accessories you haven't used?

Let us know in the comments below!

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7 comments

JanMaklak profile image

JanMaklak 3 years ago from Canada

I currently own a Canon 60D and a 450D. If I was starting out right now I'd be very tempted by the T4i which is the most feature packed camera from Canon I have seen.

I think Sony as some great models as well and when you look at the features you get a lot for the money.

I've never closely looked at Nikon. Once you buy your first dslr and start accumulating lenses and accessories it's really hard to consider a switch.


Just_Rodney profile image

Just_Rodney 3 years ago from Johannesberg South Africa, The Gold Mine City

I have a Canon 1100D, with a Sigma 70 - 300mm image stabalisor, my 18 - 55mm image stabalisor Canon lens

My main field of photography is, was and most probable will always be - anything.

For my writing on the hub, mostly food, a bit of social content, wild life flowers and odd abstracts.

When still using black and white film my choice was 400 asa and shutter speeds of 250/ plus.

Since switching to DSLR I rarely move beyond 200 asa. Currently my recently diagnosed Epilepsy, has drastically increased my shakes, so I am dependant on my tripod for even a simple photo study. I prefer not to use a flash, so maximum aperture, longer exposure 100 asa, still suits me and my needs, especially for animal and baby portraites.

As a final comment thanks for a great hub!


nifwlseirff profile image

nifwlseirff 3 years ago from Villingen Schwenningen, Germany Author

JanMaklak - Once you get used to one brand of camera, it is hard to switch, although I do know people who have moved between brands (with a lot of complaints and some adjustment time!)

You're right - Canon is possibly the more expensive of the brands available today, especially when lenses/bodies have just been released.

I'm very happy to know that you would consider the T4i - the older models are also great though too!


nifwlseirff profile image

nifwlseirff 3 years ago from Villingen Schwenningen, Germany Author

Just_Rodney - I'm finding a tripod necessary for food/macro shots - I have a similar shaking problem caused by fibromyalgia.

Your lenses cover a nice range. Had Canon not come out with the IS 24-70, I was seriously considering your 18-55mm lens!

Which lens do you use for your food and flower photos?


Just_Rodney profile image

Just_Rodney 3 years ago from Johannesberg South Africa, The Gold Mine City

Hi nifwlseirff,

The 18-55, is a good stock lens to have, as a good walkabout, yes the 24 - 70mm would, with a 70-300mm, give you more than enough lens power for most applications.

The majority of my food and flower photographs is the 70-300, as it has the macro feature. I do, however also use the 55mm for some of my food photos. This is when I take a photo of a platter, or entire baking tray full of goodies!

Which is your favourite lens?


nifwlseirff profile image

nifwlseirff 3 years ago from Villingen Schwenningen, Germany Author

Rodney - Thanks for getting back to me!

I opted for L lenses, and just got the T4i body. For food and flowers, definitely the 100mm IS macro is my favourite. Although, I have found it difficult to go from the super-macro setting (Powershot) to having to stand more than 30cm away to get the same closeness!

The 24-70mm lives on the body most of the time and is the most oft-used for non-food shots. It's not really wide on the crop-sensor, but I bought it mostly as a mid-range wide angle if/when I upgrade the camera body.

If I know I will be shooting distance (zoo, birds, animals, etc.), then the 70-300mm comes with me, and will certainly come on any travels. I used this for my most recent paid shoot at the opera, as the 24-70mm wasn't available at the time.

I'm definitely happy with my three so far!

I had considered a 50mm, and still might in future, although I much prefer lenses with image stabilisation. The new 35mm looked great spec-wise, but it's not an L lens, and there have been reported problems with filter threads.


toptenluxury profile image

toptenluxury 3 years ago from Cedartown, GA

Thanks for the great hub. I have been looking for a great new DSLR camera. With the help of this hub, I'll be able to get a good DSLR camera. Thanks! Voted up!

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