A Day Trip To Amédée Lighthouse

Cruising to New Caledonia

Sailing out of Sydney Harbour is an amazing experience. I’ve sailed on those waters all my life, both in ferries and small sailing boats, but never on a liner. From the top deck I had a bird’s eye view over the city and her foreshores, where vast stretches of greenery stretch down to the water.

Suddenly the Harbour Bridge loomed over us. I could easily see the climbers trekking up the side, stopping to wave as the ship’s horn echoed around the harbour. The iron arches swept over us at incredible speed, as if the we stayed still while the bridge sailed over us. For a tense moment I felt the ship’s funnels weren't going to make it. Music was playing, and everyone was dancing; the happiness was infectious.

I’d never imagined the vastness of the ocean. For the first few days I saw nothing – no tankers, no other boats, no lights at sea. The only signs of life were some dolphins who came one evening to play by the window as we ate dinner. How did those first explorers cover these vast distances in their canoes?

Shall we make it? (c) A. Harrison
Shall we make it? (c) A. Harrison
The idyllic beach of Amédée Lighthouse (c) A. Harrison
The idyllic beach of Amédée Lighthouse (c) A. Harrison
Lazing after lunch (c) A. Harrison
Lazing after lunch (c) A. Harrison
Leaving Sydney seemed a life-time ago (c) A. Harrison
Leaving Sydney seemed a life-time ago (c) A. Harrison

A Perfect Day Trip From Noumea

The sea had turned all those shades seen in every photo of the Pacific Islands, from the palest aqua to the deepest of blues, with the reef casting a darker shadow on the water. New Caledonia is actually a cluster of islands in the Coral Sea, surrounded by a massive coral reef. Nouméa, the capital, is on the island Grand Terre, hidden in a valley by the bay.

Once docked, it was a 2 minute bus ride along the waterfront to another wharf, where the Mary D waited. Once out of the shelter of the bay she really travelled, jumping with ease across a huge swell. The resultant spray covered the boat. My daughter and I were invited out onto the prow – we were the only two out there – where we had to hold on for dear life as the boat bucked and bounced. The spray crashed over us – it was exhilarating. Simply standing upright was an adventure.

The emerald colour of the sea stretched around us in all directions, with various islands dotted on the horizon. Our boat pulled up to a deserted island of pristine white sand and palm trees, where a long wooden jetty ran out into the sea. A white lighthouse towered above teh tiny island. We had arrived at Amédée Lighthouse.

After claiming a deck chair, we set off to explore.

The beautiful waters of Amédée Island (c) A. Harrison
The beautiful waters of Amédée Island (c) A. Harrison
The colours of the bay (c) A. HArrison
The colours of the bay (c) A. HArrison
The entrance to Amédée Lighthouse (c) A. Harrison
The entrance to Amédée Lighthouse (c) A. Harrison

Amédée Island Marine Reserve

First came the snorkelling. A soft rain fell while we were in the water – such a strange feeling to have the rain fall on my back as I floated face down in the sea. The clouds soon blew away, to be replaced by a perfect day.

While snorkelling, everything possible to be seen was below us, from sea grasses to stretches of sand to an entire world of coral. It came in all types, from those growing in shallow water where it was nigh impossible to float over it without scratching myself, to the deeper waters where I dived down past plunging cliffs sporting huge collections. These were the equivalent of coral high-rise living, with fish swimming through every type of entrance and corridor.

And the fish? I swam amongst every fish imaginable, from tiny transparent things smaller than my little finger with an electric blue stripe down their back (they were baby swordfish) to a large groper. Just when I thought there are no more to be seen, I would spy another type. Clown fish played amongst the sea anemones, and the sandy floor was littered with slugs, sea cucumbers and spiky sea urchins. Giant clams lurked in the deeper waters, of the type in every childhood adventure which traps unwary sea divers by clasping fast around their leg. The coral proved as varied as the fish. I swam past coral more than twice my height; there was coral in the shape of brains, while others lilted in the current like seaweed. Some sprouted luminescent tips of blue, or red.


Deck chairs, huts and a perfect beach (c) A. HArrison
Deck chairs, huts and a perfect beach (c) A. HArrison
Preparing coconuts (c) A. Harrison
Preparing coconuts (c) A. Harrison

Swimming With Sea Turtles at Amédée

Then there were the sea turtles. I literally stumbled upon them as I swam, for even with goggles it is impossible to see for any distance under water. I found a pair of them swimming together across the sea grasses. They seemed perfectly content for me follow in their slipstream, first one then the other turning around to check if I was still there, almost as if they were inviting me to tag along with them, and showing me the choicest sights. Their shells were decorated with beautiful patterns, and were incredibly smooth to the touch (impossible not to touch when the turtle swims into you!). Above water they are almost impossible to spot, just cute little noses peaking above the waves for air.

Dont Forget

 
 
 
sunblock - especially on the backs of your legs while snorkelling
a book to read while lazing in a deck chair
a hat
reef shoes, so as not to get cuts from the coral
a rash vest
snorkelling gear, especially flippers and goggles
camera
dry clothes for the trip home
lip balm
The storm which never came (c) A. Harrison
The storm which never came (c) A. Harrison

The Literary Traveller

The Journals of Captain Cook (Penguin Classics)
The Journals of Captain Cook (Penguin Classics)

The definitive record of the European discovery of the South Pacific, and their view of life on the islands in the 18th century

 

Exploring Amédée Island

Snorkelling was followed by a delicious buffet lunch, complete with French wine. Some islanders put on a show as we ate. We were treated to hula dancing (I have no idea how the women can move their hips like that), and traditional songs (accompanied by guitars and ukeleles – on every island we visited, someone always had a ukelele).l

Aside from the snorkelling, a glass bottomed boat did tours over the reef. With the island being only some 400 metres long and 240 metres wide, it doesn't take long to explore. The lighthouse was built in 1861 in the Eiffel Tower Workshop in Paris, then shipped out in pieces to the island to be reconstructed. (Unfortunately it was under repair, and so closed to visitors).

My friend the sea snake (c) A. Harrison
My friend the sea snake (c) A. Harrison
Leaving Amédée Lighthouse (c) A. Harrison
Leaving Amédée Lighthouse (c) A. Harrison

I took to the waters snorkelling again as others lay in hammocks, digesting lunch. Some sea snakes slithered across the sand as I headed down to the water – they are harmless. As I drifted along in the current a bell sounded: it was time to leave. As we headed home, the crew sang to us (with the island being uninhabited, it was the crew who had performed for us earlier in the day, and the performance continued as we sailed home).

All in all, a trip to Amadee Lighthouse proved a perfect day. Wherever we go from here, our cruise has been perfect.

© 2015 Anne Harrison

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12 comments

annart profile image

annart 16 months ago from SW England

What a great trip! I was with you all the way, from sailing under the bridge (which I've walked across) to being on that other boat over the waves; outstanding!

I love ships and would love to do that trip.

You have a great narrative style; great choice of words and excellent craftsmanship. I always enjoy reading your hubs.

Ann


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 16 months ago from Australia Author

Hi Ann,

Thank you for your kind words.

Sailing under the Harbour Bridge and through Sydney Harbour in a liner is an amazing experience, I hope you get to do it one day,

Anne


ladyguitarpicker profile image

ladyguitarpicker 16 months ago from 3460NW 50 St Bell, Fl32619

Hi, I liked your Hub and felt like I was there. I just came home from a cruise. I have never had the opportunity to see a sea snake, so I learn something new today. Nice Hub, Stella


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 16 months ago from Australia Author

Hi Stella,

Like the turtles, you just have to be lucky to see the snakes (though some people are happy not to!)

Cheers

Anne


BlossomSB profile image

BlossomSB 16 months ago from Victoria, Australia

It's a great cruise - I know from experience! My favourite is the amazing variety to be seen when snorkelling. Love your write-up = happy memories.


Charito1962 profile image

Charito1962 16 months ago from Manila, Philippines

Wow, you are some adventurer, Ms. Anne! Love the way you talk about your swimming discoveries! (Oh-so descriptive!)

I've never been to a lighthouse. I just read about it in travel publications and literary material.

I wish I could also experience what it's like to be at Amédée Lighthouse.

Thanks for sharing! (Nice photos, too!)


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 16 months ago from Australia Author

Thank you BlossomSB - it was a fantastic cruise. Glad to bring back some happy memories.


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 16 months ago from Australia Author

Hi Charito1962,

Thanks for your kind comments. I hope you get to visit a lighthouse and also Amédée Lighthouse one day,

Anne


EsJam profile image

EsJam 15 months ago from Southern California

You have some amazing photos here! And what a wondrous day trip! I visit and tour lighthouse on the west coast of the States. Hopefully, in the future, I can visit some abroad. Your hub was a delight.


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 15 months ago from Australia Author

Thank you so much, EsJAm. Lighthouses tell a different story in each part of the world; I've never been to the west coast but it is on my bucket list.


sgbrown profile image

sgbrown 15 months ago from Southern Oklahoma

What a wonderful trip this must have been! I would love to visit here! Your descriptions are amazing, I almost feel like I have been there! You pictures are amazing too!


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 15 months ago from Australia Author

Thank you for your kind words, sgbrown - I hope you make the trip, you will have an amazing time

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