Some Unusual Things To Do In Venice

A tank or a dalek? (c) A. Harrison
A tank or a dalek? (c) A. Harrison
A typical Venetian gondolier (c) A. Harrison
A typical Venetian gondolier (c) A. Harrison

Find A Gondola Repair Shop

Well, my window / looked out on the Square where Ogni Santi / meets San Trovaso / things have ends and beginnings - Ezra Pound, Cantos


From his rooms in Venice, Ezra Pound overlooked a squero (or gondola building yard). Built in the 17th century, the Squero di San Trovaso is the oldest remaining squeri in Venice - at the height of her powers some ten thousand gondolas served the city.

Although closed to the public, the Squero di San Trovaso sits beside a small canal, (where in Venice doesn't?) so all the comings and goings are easily seen across the Rio San Trovaso from the Fondamenta Nani. (A fondamenta is a street running alongside a canal.) I saw some half-dozen gondolas in various stages of construction and repair. A few were being covered with black lacquer; seven coats are needed to give the boats their famous gloss. (Laws passed in 1562 decreed all gondolas to be black to prevent ostentatious displays of wealth.) There was even a tank gondola, which looked remarkably like a sea-worthy dalek.


Gondolas on the Grand Canal, Venice (c) A. Harrison
Gondolas on the Grand Canal, Venice (c) A. Harrison
The Rio San Trovaso, Venice (c) A. Harrison
The Rio San Trovaso, Venice (c) A. Harrison

The Tradition of Gondolas and Gondoliers

The arch of Venetian bridges is just high enough to allow a standing gondolier to pass beneath. (I'm not sure if height regulations exist for gondoliers!) Around the end of the 19th century the design of gondolas subtly changed, lengthening the left side by 24cm to make the boat asymmetrical. With the gondolier standing on the left side and with the oar on the right, this change corrected the tendency of the gondola to veer leftwards which each forward stroke.

Today all manner of craft ply the waters of Venice, from vegetable barges to garbage trucks and even ambulances. Enormous ocean liners pass through the lagoon, their controversial wash flooding into the canals. Yet gondolas and their striped-shirted gondoliers remain part of the city’s mythology, having been part of Venetian life for over one thousand years. Their knowledge of the canals is unequalled, and legend holds they are born with webbed feet, the better for them to walk on water.

A hidden garden in Venice (c) A. Harrison
A hidden garden in Venice (c) A. Harrison
Abstract art outside a Venetian church (c) A. Harrison
Abstract art outside a Venetian church (c) A. Harrison

A Bocca di Leone

From the Squero San Trovaso a short walk leads to the Zattere, a long quayside looking across the Venetian lagoon to the island of Giudecca. The breeze carries the smell of the sea, while the call of gulls fills the air. Outside the Santa Maria della Visitazione stands a bocca di leone, a letterbox where anonymous denunciations were once made to The Great Council.

The "Lion's Mouth" once stood in every district of Venice (the lion, of course, being the symbol of the city). They first appeared around 1310 after a failed coup, allowing for anonymous denunciations and complaints to be slipped into a sealed box via the mouth. Complaints ranged from tax evasion to simple reports of blasphemy; health infringements to treason. Only a few bocca di leone remain: in the Doge's Palace, the Church of St. Matin (in Castello) and the Church of St Moses (in the San Marco district).

The magical light on the Grand Canal, Venice (c) A.Harrison
The magical light on the Grand Canal, Venice (c) A.Harrison
The Rio San Barnaba (c) A. Harrison
The Rio San Barnaba (c) A. Harrison

The Literary Traveller

Stand On The Pugilist Bridge

I crossed the Grand Canal into that area of Venice called the Dorsoduro. As I walked bells chimed the hour from a handful of churches, each sounding a few minutes apart (for, like the rest of Italy, churches in Venice run to their own time).

In a few minutes I'd swapped the noise and bustle of tourist-laden Venice for a maze of alleyways and pretty piazzas. Cafes spilt onto the streets and picturesque residences lined the quiet canals. Small shops burst with flowers and vegetable seedlings, supplying all those hidden courtyards and gardens throughout the city.

The Fondamenta Gherardini, which runs alongside the Rio San Barnaba, is often cited as the prettiest street in Venice. It opens into the quiet canal-side Piazza San Barnaba, complete with a barge selling fruit and vegetables. The square and surrounding streets are filled with antiques and excellent leather shops (at cheaper prices than the more touristy areas of Venice), cafes and restaurants, as well grocery shops and the like for the residents of the area.

The colourful vegetable barge is moored beside the Ponte dei Pugni. On it are two sets of footprints, marking the starting positions for traditional fist fights. Enormously popular, these fights once drew huge crowds as teams from rival areas fought for supremacy. Other bridges used for fist-fighting were the Ponte Diedo at San Marziale, the Ponte della Guerra at Santa Fosca, and the Ponte della Guerra at San Zulien.

These fist-fights were not simply a contest between two pugilists; a champion stood in the spots marked by the footprints, a small army of fighters behind him. The fight finished when the all the opposing team had been thrown into the canal, often awash with blood. (The fights became so violent they were banned in 1705.)

Sunset at Instituto Canossiano San Trovaso (c) A. Harrison
Sunset at Instituto Canossiano San Trovaso (c) A. Harrison
The Instituto San Giueseppe, Vencie (c) A. HArriosn
The Instituto San Giueseppe, Vencie (c) A. HArriosn
A quiet canal near our convent (c) A. Harrison
A quiet canal near our convent (c) A. Harrison

Stay In A Convent

San Marco’s was once the centre of Europe. Our place of abode lay merely two hundred steps away. Our first steps took us along the Mercerie, a string of narrow alleys which link San Marco to the Rialto. Renown for shopping, only the things for sale here have changed down the centuries; not the cobbles, not the buildings, not the throngs of people.

By step forty we’d left the crowds for a world of cobble stones and tiny piazzas. The cobbles led us around a corner and over a limestone to the very door of our place of abode. Like so many buildings in Venice our convent, the Instituto San Giuseppe, had a door opening directly onto the water. As we crossed the bridge a gondola came to a colourful stop outside our convent to collect passengers.

As with all over Italy, many convents and monasteries in Venice offer accommodation. The rooms are spotlessly clean, often in buildings centuries old, and are a cheaper alternative to a hotel. The Instituto San Giuseppe proved a maze of grand staircases and marble halls. Paintings covered the ceilings and walls – in a room large enough to host a masked ball, a fresco peeked out from under the scaffolding of restoration – and everywhere was bathed in peace.

In the Dorsoduro area, I stayed in the Instituto Canossiano San Trovaso. This proved a perfect area to stay, well removed from the crowds of San Marco. The streets around the convent were devoid of tourists, and quite often empty, yet just a stroll away (near the Campo San Margherita) I found more than enough cafes and restaurants to satisfy the most ardent gourmand (not to mention the shopping). My room overlooked a flower-filled courtyard. In the distance a camponile tolled away the hours while towering (at a slight angle) over the other buildings, while next morning I woke to the sound of seagulls, followed shortly by the first bells of the day.

Waiting for a vaporetto, Venice (c) A. Harrison
Waiting for a vaporetto, Venice (c) A. Harrison
Palazzo Cantarini del Bovolo, Venice (c) A. Harrison
Palazzo Cantarini del Bovolo, Venice (c) A. Harrison

If You Go

http://www.comune.venezia.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/EN/IDPagina/1

Official website of the City of Venice

http://www.govenice.com/ A useful guide to museums, galleries, hotels etc

http://www.bookingmonastery.com/?lang=en_us for those should interested in a convent stay

http://www.istitutocanossianosantrovaso.com/ The Instituto Canossiano San Trovaso

Visit The House Of The Snail Shell

Venice is a city to be explored on foot. Chaotic streets suddenly become deserted alleys, which after a few bends empty into a street so crowded it's almost impossible to move. No matter how confusing the winding streets become, there is always a sign pointing either to the Rialto Bridge or to San Marco – usually in a direction which seems counter-intuitive, and in the opposite direction to the last sign. Few streets are straight and many bridges bend, so by late afternoon even space and time seem to curve until reinforced with a double espresso.

Seeking the Palazzo Cantarini del Bovolo, I left the Piazza San Marco and religiously followed the map, only to emerge back on the other side of the piazza. Competing string quartets from the various cafes filled the air with waltzes, and swarms of pigeons flocked around anyone offering food. A second attempt at discovery, and I was rewarded – but only by following other people who had cameras at the ready, rather than relying on the small signs pasted haphazardly on the buildings.

The 15th C Palazzo Cantarini del Bovolo is so called for it boasts a tower with a curving, external stairway, highlighted in white marble against the terracotta building. Bovolo is Italian for snail shell, and this is exactly what the spiral staircase resembles (although I like to think of it as the Cinderella house). The Cantarini family were known as a family of philosophers, and after extensive renovations, the palazzo is now open to the public.

An old entrance, Venice (c) A. Harrison
An old entrance, Venice (c) A. Harrison

Farewell to Venice

No matter how often I return to Venice, I always find something new. Many buildings may be crumbling, but Venice is definitely a city very much alive. She is a city for walking, to discover what lies hidden down a beckoning alley, to promenade through as darkness falls, or to simply sip a prosecco and watch the world wander by.

© 2015 Anne Harrison

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14 comments

SheilaMilne profile image

SheilaMilne 13 months ago from Kent, UK

Venice is, indeed, a wonderful city. You have given me a real longing to return.


Anna C Taylor profile image

Anna C Taylor 13 months ago from Around the World

I loved my time in Venice, but I would suggest the boat tours over the gondolas. It might be less traditional but they're cheaper and you learn more.

Great Hub!


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 13 months ago from Australia Author

Hi SheilaMilne,

I hope you make it back one day to this magical city,

Anne


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 13 months ago from Australia Author

Morning Anna,

I've never been in a gondola, they always seem such a production line. Personally, I could sit in the No1 vaporetto all day as it goes up and down the Grand Canal. Thanks for reading my hub,

Anne


AliciaC profile image

AliciaC 13 months ago from British Columbia, Canada

Venice sounds so interesting. I love reading hubs about the city, including this one. Thank you for sharing the lovely descriptions and photos.


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 13 months ago from Australia Author

I'm so glad you enjoyed my hub, Alicia


ChitrangadaSharan profile image

ChitrangadaSharan 13 months ago from New Delhi, India

Excellent hub with beautiful pictures!

You reminded me of my visit to Venice few years ago for a family holiday. The wonderful memories are still fresh in my mind. We had such an enjoyable time.

Thanks for sharing this interesting description about Venice!


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 13 months ago from Australia Author

Thank you, ChitrangadaSharan, I'm so glad you enjoyed mu hub. Memories are often the best thing about travel!


aesta1 profile image

aesta1 12 months ago from Ontario, Canada

Venice is one of my favourite cities and each time I go back, I discover something new. I love the walking tour we did as we discovered other nooks and corners of the city not often visited by tourists.


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 12 months ago from Australia Author

There are so many places to discover in Venice, aestal1 - a good excuse to return!


DDE profile image

DDE 12 months ago from Dubrovnik, Croatia

I haven't traveled much but plan to. An interesting place and looks beautiful.


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 12 months ago from Australia Author

I hope you put Venice on your to do list - it's not too far from Dubrovnik!


CYong74 profile image

CYong74 4 weeks ago from Singapore

This is a good list! I've never read about Gondolier repairs in any other webpage. This is indeed something very unique and Venetian.


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 4 weeks ago from Australia Author

Thank you. In Venice, just wander - you'll never know what you might find!

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