What To Eat When In Florence

The Foods Of Tuscany

Food is a serious business in Italy. In Tuscany, it is virtually an art form. This is hardly surprising considering it was Catherine de' Medici who, on marrying the King of France, brought her own chefs and so revolutionized French cooking. (She also introduced the fork to the French.)

Tuscany can boast a wealth of fine ingredients. Wild boar roam the plains to the south, and sheep dot the hills. The country's best beef grazes on the plains just south of Arezzo, while the Tyrrhenian Sea supplies her seafood.

Each region of Tuscany has its own specialties and style of cuisine, but, in general, the food shows its peasants origins. It is hearty and simply prepared, whether in a restaurant in the heart of the city or served on a farmer’s table.

Meals may have only a few ingredients but they burst with flavor. Cooking techniques are deceptively simple; grilling – alla Fiorentina is a favourite method. Tomato sauces are prominent. Olive oil is central to meals, and a bottle is usually left on the table to drizzle over the meal.

Dining near a small piazza © A Harrison
Dining near a small piazza © A Harrison
A restaurant near the Mercato San Lorenzo, Florence © A Harrison
A restaurant near the Mercato San Lorenzo, Florence © A Harrison

The Tuscan Menu

Italian menus back be daunting. in Tuscany restaurants, the menu can be divided into up to six sections:

i)Antipasti – literally, before the meal. This may be a selection of cold meats, vegetables, dipping sauces, or crostini

ii) Minestre - this includes soups, broths, and smaller pasta dishes such as tortellini, or a risotto. It may be called Il Primo

iii) Pietanze - these are the main dishes, sometimes termed Il Secondo

iv) Contori - the vegetable side dishes, or Insalata, the salads

v) Formaggi - the cheese course

vi) Il Dolce - never to be missed. A day in Italy without a gelato is a day wasted.

Then of course there is the Vini - which covers everything from house wines (always a good choice) to more specialised brews.


Overlooking the Arno, Florence © A Harrison
Overlooking the Arno, Florence © A Harrison
A garden in the heart of Florence © A Harrison
A garden in the heart of Florence © A Harrison

Some Of My Favourites

Bistecca alla Fiorentina. This is a thick cut of steak from the famed white Chiana cattle, renown for the delicate marbling of fat through the meat. The meat is brushed with olive oil, lemon juice, parsley, salt and cracked black pepper, then grilled over either a wood fire or charcoals to which vine shoots and branches of herb bushed are added. The meat is turned only once, and remains juicy and pink when cut.

Ribollita. This famous Tuscan soup is a thick, vegetable and cannellini bean broth thickened by soaking stale bread in it overnight then reheated the next day (hence the name, which means re-heated.) It is then poured over fresh bread, with olive oil drizzled on top.

Pappardelle al Cinghiale The best wild boar, or cinghiale, are available in autumn. They are cooked to melt-in-the-mouth tenderness in a rich wine sauce and serbved over pappardelle, a wide, flat pasta typical of Tuscany.

Fagioli – One of my most memorable meals was in a restaurant just opposite the Casa di Dante. We were served a dish of white cannelloni beans, cooked al dente, over which I drizzled olive oil of the most vibrant green hue. A pinch of salt, some cracked black pepper, then all was lightly mashed together – simply delicious. The beans can also be served all’uccelleto, stewed with tomato, sage, garlic and olive oil.

Panzella – a salad served in summer, made from day-old bread soaked in water and vinegar, and topped with diced tomatoes, onions, basil and olive oil.

If on a Winter's Night a Traveler
If on a Winter's Night a Traveler

Calvino's love of food, and its central role in Italian life, runs through these 10 interwoven stories.

 

Antipasti

This may consist of crostini, small roundels of toasted bread brushed liberally with olive oil and garlic, and with a variety of toppings: tomato and basil, or fegatini, a thick chicken liver pâté flavoured with onions parsley and capers.

There are also cooked (cotto) meats, cured (crudo) meats, such as prosciutto or salami, or carparccio – thin slices of raw cured beef. Salsicce di cinghiale are wild boar sausages. Antipasto di mare is a section of seafood.

Dishes may come with slices of figs, melons, olives and possibly cheeses, and often with a bagnacauda – (literally a hot bath) a hot sauce, seasoned with anchovies, for dipping raw vegetables

A garden amongst the roof-tops; fresh produce is everywhere in Florence © A Harrison
A garden amongst the roof-tops; fresh produce is everywhere in Florence © A Harrison

Vini

bianco / rosso locale - local white or red wine

Brunello di Montalcino - perhaps the best Tuscan wine, favoured by the Lombards

Chianti - the most famous of Tuscan wines

Montepulciano - a fine red

Vino della casa - the house wine, often a delightful surprise

Minestre

Agnolotti – a crescent shaped pasta stuffed with meat, cheese and vegetables (a shell-shaped version of ravioli)

Al pomodoro – a tomotao sauce

Bucatini – hollow spaghetti

Cappelletti – small ravioli (or little hats) filled with meat and cheese.

Gnocchi - dumplings made from either potato (gnocchi alla patate) or semolina (gnocchi alla romana), served with a variety of sauces

Minestrone – a rich vegetable, bean and pasta soup, topped with grated parmesan

Pansotti - Pasta filled with greens, herbs, and cheeses, usually served with a walnut sauce.

Pappardelle alle lepre - A wide, flat pasta with rabbit sauce.

Risotto – Arborio rice cooked slowly in stock, with an endless variety of vegetables, meat and seafood

Spaghetti ragù – spaghetti with a meat sauce

Pomigranites in Florence © A Harrison
Pomigranites in Florence © A Harrison

Pietanze

Meats include bistecca (beef), vitello (veal), agnello (mutton), pollo (chicken), maiale (pork), cinghiale (boar) coniglio (rabbit) and anatra (duck).

Abbacchio – a roast leg or shoulder of lamb, flavoured with anchovies

Arrosto di maiale al forgo - roast pork

Coniglio alla cacciatore - rabbit in tomato and capsicum sauce

Galetto all a griglia - grilled young cockerel

Involtini – thinly sliced beef, veal or pork with a variety of fillings, rolled and pan-fried, often with a tomto sauce

Osso bucco – veal shin cooked in a rich tomato sauce until incredibly tender. Often served with a special fork for the marrow

Saltimboccaa scallop (very thinly slice) or veal layered with proscuito and sage and sautéed in butter. It translates as “jump in your mouth,” referring to the tart and savoury flavour

Scaloppina alla Valdostana a scallop of veal stuffed with cheese and ham.

Vitelle al forno - roast veal

Kiwifruit in Florence © A Harrison
Kiwifruit in Florence © A Harrison

Contorni

Caprese - a salad of tomatoes, mozzarella, capsicum and basil

Fagioli - beans

Funghi - mushrooms

Insalata verde - green salad

Insalata mista - mixed salad

Patate fritte - fried potatoes

Piselli al prosciutto - peas with prosciutto

Peperonata - roasted capsicums cooked with tomato and garlic

Spinaci saltati - spinach

Dolci

Cantucci - small, moon-shaped almond biscuits, perfect for dipping in a desert wine

Gelato - many believe the world's best gelato are served in Florence. An incredible variety is available, the flavours often bearing no resemblance to the names!

Pan Pepato - a medieval forerunner to panforte, a dense cake of spices, dried fruit and honey

Riccio all a fiamma - roasted chestnuts

Zuccotto - Florentine sponge cake, filled with chocolate and nuts

Zuppa Inglese - Florentine version of English trifle

A garden boasting ruins and olives © A Harrison
A garden boasting ruins and olives © A Harrison

And finally...

Of course, this is just the start of what is to be found throughout Tuscany. It doesn't even begin to cover street food - such as pizza, served by the slice, or stands selling roasted chestnuts - or the delights of visiting a delicatessen and selecting a variety of foods to be enjoyed later. Better still, wander through a local market to find a few delicacies, and enjoy a meal at the local cafe, full of the freshest ingredients.

Then, of course, there is the coffee...

© 2014 Anne Harrison

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7 comments

kalinin1158 profile image

kalinin1158 2 years ago from California

Wow great information! I love Florence, I wish I could go back there with this guide to Tuscan food!


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 2 years ago from Australia Author

Thank you, I got so hungry as I wrote it! So many of the recipes, however, can easily be done at home. Thanks for stopping by.


Jonn Christie 90 profile image

Jonn Christie 90 2 years ago from Australia

Yes they do indeed have an assortment of food in Tuscany i watched an Italian cooking show on lifestyle food on foxtel it was called simply Italian it was such a good show i could not believe how many recipes there were such beautiful food to haha i must think i am part Italian since i love their food so much thank you for sharing for sharing your love of cooking of Italian food.

Very informative.


Romanian profile image

Romanian 24 months ago from Oradea, Romania

This is a useful article. I recomand this for everyone before visiting Venice.


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 24 months ago from Australia Author

Thank you Romanian. I hope you get to visit Venice soon.


CYong74 profile image

CYong74 6 months ago from Singapore

Very informative hub. This would be very useful for anyone traveling to this great city.


Anne Harrison profile image

Anne Harrison 6 months ago from Australia Author

Thank you!

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