Definitely start at Pike Place! Its a huge open marketplace with fresh foods and really interesting stuff (last time I was there, I found chocolate pasta). There's also a ton of handmade jewelry, sculptures, and paintings as well. The Space Needle might seem touristy, but it really is a fantastic view and although its not cheap, the spinning restaurant at the top has some of the best food I've ever had. Just walking around the city is fun, there are a lot of cool little shops and restaurants!