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Post and rail fencing for horses, donkeys, and mules.

Updated on January 5, 2016

Post and Rail wooden fencing, the perfect fencing for all horses, ponies and donkeys. Custom made gates for all sizes, made naturally to blend in with your surroundings.

Post and rail horse fence can be made with different materials, although usually in wood and comes in many different styles, but nearly always very similar in design,

Paddock fencing is a natural choice for anyone keeping horses or donkeys, as it is much stronger than usual fences, has always been associated with horses, and can blend naturally into any surroundings.


Post and Rail Strengths

Before you have post and rail wooden fences erected, ensure that your supplier / fitter is going to erect a fence that will last.

Horses are very strong, they will rub themselves against a fence to scratch an itch, if the fence is not strong enough, the fence will fall down very quickly.

Recommendations for the posts.

The posts should always be made of treated or tanalised wood. This will help to reduce the warping effect and protect against rotting.

The average thickness of a post is about 9cm square or round. Anything thinner may result in broken posts at various times. Posts should be sunk into the ground to a depth of 40 cm, and depending on the ground type, should be concreted in.

Posts should be no more than two meters apart.

Like nearly all wooden structures, they will need to be re-treated every year with a creosote type product or paint. Without this, the life of your post and rail fence will be greatly reduced.

Recommendations for the Rails

The rails for post and rail fencing, should be approximately 8cm x 6cm, this thickness greatly reduces the amount of give when a horse either rubs against them or when one is trying to graze over the top rail.

If thinner rails are used, then on my experience, you will be constantly replacing broken rails and the rest of them will be pushed to breaking point and bent out of proportion. Depending on the size of your horse, the top rail usually comes in line with the beginning of the horses throat area; should always be lower than the top of the posts at about 10cm below the top of the post is adequate and does look very nice.

The middle and bottom rails, should be an equal distance from each other for that uniform appearance. If you are using 4m rails, then each rail will need 6 screws, two for each end and two for the middle.

Gates and other openings

All the parts of a post and rail fence should be made of the same sized material for that authentic look, this includes the gates. If made of a different thickness wood, then they will permanently look out of place.

The gates need to match the height of all posts and the level of the rails, also with the gates you will need the diagonal strengthening struts, which obviously strengthen the gates and from a distance help you identify where the entrance gate is. otherwise the gate and the fence would look identical.

A galvanized gate hinge is perfect for attaching these gates to the posts, normal "T" hinges are not suitable, as they are to weak. If you do not require a gate, but may need to use a part of the fence as an opening for say a large truck delivering hay, you can have the rails that can simply slide across.

These sliding rails are exactly the same as the normal rails, but are not fixed in position, they sit on top of the other rails when the aperture is open, then you simply slide them across to close the opening again, and does not deflect from the uniform of the post and rail fence.

With post and rail horse fencing, it is a great expense as wood is never cheap, but it is very strong if erected properly and can last for years if looked after, little maintenance is required. If you are thinking of opening a riding school, then post and rail horse fence is a must, even if it is only erected at the entrance to the school, it will give the impression that most people associate with horses.


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