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Crochet Accessory Patterns

Updated on October 22, 2014
Lemming13 profile image

Lemming13 has been crocheting for years, and over the last five has also been creating her own designs and patterns.

Welcome to Lemming's Crochet Accessories!

If you've seen my other crochet pages you will know I am a keen needlecrafter and designer of crochet patterns.On this page I'll be posting free patterns of my own for crochet (and occasionally knitted or sewn) accessories. There will be bags, purses, hats, gloves, chokers, hook cases, and all sorts of other things. All the patterns I post are free to print off and use, but do not sell the patterns please.

Cattypillow! - A cuddly cover for a bolster cushion

This was made for a bolster about a foot long and about 5 inches in diameter, but it can easily be adapted to any size.

REQUIRES

Yarn - 350g Sirdar Funky Fur Magic Buttercup, 10g white DK, small amounts pink and black DK

Hook / Needles -3 mm

Sundries - press-studs, 4 - 6, toy stuffing, bolster cushion

INSTRUCTIONS (Given in UK notation)

BODY

Using Buttercup Funky Fur make a magic ring, work 6 dc into it. Rd 1; inc in each stitch. 12. Rd 2; (dc 1, inc 1 to end. 18. Rd 3; (dc 2, inc 1) to end. 24. Rd 4; (dc 3, inc 1) to end. 30. Continue to increase 6 dc on each round until you have 72 stitches in each round (should be 11 rounds). Rd 12 - 90; dc. (You should keep checking the length against the length of your bolster. Making sure not to work it too long). Ss from 1st to last stitch. Rd 91; working into front loops only ch 3, tr 2, dec 1 treble wise, tr 3, dec 1 treble wise ) to end. 60. Ss from first to last and fasten off.

HEAD

Using Buttercup, make 8 chain. Work first round on both sides of chain. Rd 1; dc into next 7 chain, 3 dc into next chain. Dc into next 6 stitches, 2 dc into next. 18. Rd 2; (inc, dc 7, inc) to end. 24. Rd 3; (inc, dc 7, inc, dc, inc, dc) to end. 30. Rd 4; (inc, dc 8, inc, dc 2, inc, dc 2) to end. 36. Rd 5; (inc, dc 9, inc, dc 3, inc, dc 3) to end. 42. Rd 6; (inc, dc 10, inc, dc 4, inc, dc 4) to end. 48. Rd 7; (inc, dc 11, inc, dc 5, inc, dc 5) to end. 54. Rd 8; (inc 1, dc 12, inc 1, dc 6, inc 1, dc 6) to end. 60. Rds 9 - 10; dc. Rd 11; (inc 1, dc 13, inc 1, dc 7, inc 1, dc 7) to end. 66. Rd 12; (inc 1, dc 14, inc 1, dc 8, inc 1, dc 8) to end. 72. Rd 13; (inc 1, dc 15, inc 1, dc 9, inc 1, dc 9) to end. 78. Rd 14; dc. Rd 15; (inc 1, dc 16, inc 1, dc 10, inc 1, dc 10) to end. 84. Rd 16; (inc 1, dc 17, inc 1, dc 11, inc 1, dc 11) to end. 90. Rd 17; (inc 1, dc 18, inc 1, dc 12, inc 1, dc 12) to end. 96. Rd 18 - 24; dc. Rd 25; (dec 1, dc 18, dec 1, dc 12, dec 1, dc 12) to end. 90. Rd 26; (dec 1, dc 17, dec 1, dc 11, dec 1, dc 11) to end. 84. Rd 27; (dec 1, dc 16, dec 1, dc 10, dec 1, dc 10) to end. 78. Rd 28: (dec 1, dc 15, dec 1, dc 9, dec 1, dc 9) to end. 72. Rd 29: (dec 1, dc 14, dec 1, dc 8, dec 1, dc 8) to end. 66. Rd 30; (dec 1, dc 13, dec 1, dc 7, dec 1, dc 7) to end. 60. Rd 31; (dec 1, dc 12, dec 1, dc 6, dec 1, dc 6) to end. 54. Rd 32; ( dec 1, dc 11, dec 1, dc 5, dec 1, dc 5) to end. 48. Rd 33; (dec 1, dc 10, dec 1, dc 4, dec 1, dc 4) to end. 43. Rd 34; (dec 1, dc 9, dec 1, dc 3, dec 1, dc 3). 36. Rd 35- 36; dc. Rd 37; (dec 1, dc 8, dec 1, dc 2, dec 1, dc 2) to end. 30. Rd 38; dc. Rd 39; (dec 1, dc 7, dec 1, dc 1, dec 1, dc 1) to end. 24. Rd 40; (dec 1, dc 4) to end. 20. Fasten off, stuff and close up gap at bottom of head.

MUZZLE

Using white DK make magic ring, work 6 dc into it. Rd 1; inc all round. 12. Rd 2; (inc 1, dc 1) to end. 18. Rd 3; (inc 1, dc 2) to end. 24. Rd 4; dc. Rd 5; (inc 1, dc 3) to end. 30. Rd 6; (inc 1, dc 4) to end, 36. Rd 7; dc. SS from 1st to last stitch. Fasten off. Stitch a nose and mouth on front of muzzle in pink. Next sew muzzle in place on front of head leaving a gap for stuffing. Stuff lightly and close up gap. Stitch eyes using black dk.

EARS (make 2)

Using Buttercup make magic ring. Rd 1; work 6 dc into ring, do not join. Rd 2; (inc, dc) to end. From now on join all rows. 9. Rd 3; (inc, dc 2) to end. 12. Rd 4; (inc, dc 3) to end. 15. Rd 5; (inc, dc 4) to end. 18. Rd 6; (inc, dc 5) to end. 21. Rd 7; (inc 1, dc 6) to end. 24. Rd 8; (inc 1, dc 7) to end. 27. Rd 9; (inc 1, dc 8) to end. 30. Fasten off, stuff and stitch to head.

Now the head is complete you can position your press-studs (poppers) on the treble flap of the body and the back of the head. Make sure you place them so the head will be in the correct position when attached.

TAIL

Using white dk make magic ring and work 6 dc into it. Rd 1; inc all round. 12. Rd 2; (inc 1, dc 1) to end. 18. Rd 2; (inc 1, dc 2) to end. 24. Rd 4 - 6 dc. Now switch to Buttercup. Continue in dc for another 54 rounds (60 altogether). I suggest you stuff the tail as you go, since it is only lightly stuffed and won’t be too heavy, and it will be hard to stuff it if you wait till the end. Ss from 1st to last stitch, fasten off and finish stuffing, attach to centre of closed body end.

PAWS (make 4)

Using white dk make 10 chain. Dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc 7, then work 3 dc into last chain. Now turn and work down back of chain, working 7 dc and 2 dc into last chain. You should have 20 dc. Rd 1 - 5; dc. Switch to Buttercup, continue to dc for 17 more rows (22 in total). Ss from 1st to last, fasten off and stuff lightly. Using pink dk work two straight stitches over the end of the foot to mark out toes, pulling tight so they are indented. (Your stitch should start on one side of the foot, go right around the white end of the foot and in again on the other side, right through the foot and pull tight, with a small st to anchor). Stitch foot to body.

Daisies Bolster Cover - crochet cover for a bolster cushion

Requires approx 100g each of Patons Wash ‘n’ Wear Crepe DK in two colours, 3 mm hook, 2 short lengths of cord to match colour required, or 3 - 4 poppers or press-studs.

This one was made to fit a bolster cushion approx 16” long and 20” in circumference, but it can be adapted to more or less any size; it should work out from any multiple of 10 chain + 2, as it uses basic catherine wheel stitch in two colours.

Cluster stitch: yoh, insert hook in next stitch and draw through loop, yoh and draw through 2 loops. Repeat over as many stitches as given next to cluster (3, 4 or 7), finally yoh and draw through all loops on hook (either 4, 5 or 8).

MAIN SECTION. Using 3mm hook and A make 102 chain. Row 1; 1 dc into 2nd chain from hook, (dc into next chain, miss 3 chain, 7 tr into next hook, miss 3 ch, dc into next 2 ch), repeat to end. Row 2 (WS); using B, make 3 ch. Cluster 3 (see instruction for cluster above). (Ch 3, dc into next 3 tr, ch 3, cluster 7) to last end, making cluster 4 over last 4 stitches instead of cluster 7. Row 3; ch 3, tr 3 into top of cluster 4 at end of last row, (miss 3 ch, dc into next 3 dc, miss 3 ch, 7 tr into top of cluster 7), repeat to end making 4 tr into top of cluster 3 from start of last row. Row 4: with A ch 1, dc into next 2 tr, (ch 3, cluster 7, ch 3, dc into next 3 tr) repeat to end finishing with dc into last tr and top of turning chain. Row 5; ch 1, dc into first 2 dc, (miss 3 ch, 7 tr into top of cluster 7, miss 3 ch, dc into next 3 dc), repeat to end finishing with dc into last 2 dc. Rows 2 - 5 form pattern. Continue in pattern changing colour every 2 rows till work measures same in length as circumference of your bolster, ending with row 4. With WS facing, ss final row to first row using A, fasten off.

ENDS (make 2) Using 3 mm hook and A, make magic ring and work 12 tr into it. Join this and all following rounds with ss. Switch to B (continue to change colour every row so you work 1 row A, 1 B). Rd 2; ch 3 (counts as 1st treble), inc in every stitch. 24. Rd 3; ch3, inc 1, tr 1 to end, inc in last stitch. 36. Rd 4; as rd 3. 54 stitches. Rd 5; ch 3, tr in same stitch, (tr in next 2, inc), repeat to last 2 stitches, tr in last 2. Continue like this, adding 1 tr between increases, till diameter of end is same as diameter of bolster. You should try to stagger the increases so your work remains circular. Fasten off when required diameter is achieved and sew one end piece to main section.

Now reattach yarn A (or yarn B if that was the last used on the end pieces) to open end of bolster cover with RS facing. Using 3 mm hook make trebles evenly round edge, working at least 10 stitches fewer than on last round of end. Join at end of round and then work another round of trebles, decreasing with the same frequency as you increased on the second to last round of end. Ss to join and fasten off. Turn inside out. Pin unused end to open end of main section so that the joining stitches are matched to the seam of main section, and the edging rounds just worked are on the inside. Stitch down only around part of the opening ( about half should be okay as the yarn is elastic enough to let you slide the bolster in). Stitch the upper half down, opposite to the seam. Fasten off. If using studs or poppers, sew them in place now on the inside of the end piece and the outer side of the edging. I preferred to use a lacing cord, and if you wish to do this you should attach the two cords (match the colour to the outermost round of ends) one on each side of the opening. Turn the work right side out and insert the cushion now. Using a large-eyed needle, thread the lacing cords through the end and the edging till the cords are in the centre bottom above the seam. Tie loosely and push inside cover.

Spiral Bag and Pouch - A really quick and easy bag idea

This is one of the easiest handbags I ever made. I used James Brett Marble Chunky (used about 300g), but any chunky yarn would do; it works especially well with a mingled or self-striping yarn. You begin with a magic ring into which you work 6 dc. Every following round is worked into the back loops of the previous round, and you increase by 6 stitches each round. So on the first round you increase in every stitch; on the second you work 1 dc, then 1 increase; on the 3rd you work 2 dc, 1 increase, and so on, adding one extra stitch between increases every round till you have a circle big enough for what you want. You then fasten off and make another circle.

Now using your yarn doubled you make a chain about 10 stitches and work a row of double crochet. You then work rows of double crochet into the back loops, making it long enough so it fits round about two-thirds of the circle edge, plus as long as you want for your shoulder strap (measure with a tape over your shoulder down to where you want the bag top to sit when carrying it).

Fasten off again and fit the strap in place around one circle edge preferably using safety pins to held the edges together. Now stitch the edges together working a simple shell edge as you go (1 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 1 dc, ss in next st). Do this with both base circles, finishing by slipstitching the loose strap end in place.

To fasten the bag I made a simple bobble using the same yarn ( I wrapped the yarn three times round a thick pencil, slipped the loops carefully off and worked double crochet round them, packing in stitches till I had a firm, thick bobble). I sewed this inside one of the open top edges, then made a chain loop and stitched it on to the opposite inner side. Done!

The pouch for my notebook and pen was even simpler. I made a chain twice the width of the notebook and worked rows of half trebles through the back loops, till the fabric was long enough to hold the book and a little over. Then I folded it into and linked the edges with the same simple shell pattern, going down the open side, across the bottom, and up the closed side so it looked the same. All finished!

Royal Wedding Bag

A simple bag with a mosaic pattern in three colours

I wasn't really that fussed about the royal shindig but the outbreak of patriotic colours inspired me to make a new summer bag for outings.

Requirements: White DK, 100 g. Blue and red DK, 50 g. 3.5 mm hook. Button. Trimmings (optional).

BAG: Using white, make 59 chain. 1st Row: 1 dc into 2nd chain from hook, 1dc into every chain to end. 58 stitches. Turn (at end of every row). Row 2: ch 1, dc to end. Row 3 and 4: Using blue, 3 ch, 1 tr into next stitch, 1 half-treble into next stitch, 1 dc into next stitch. {Make 2 chain, miss 2 stitches, 1 dc into next stitch, 1 htr, tr into next 2 stitches, double-treble into next 2 stitches, tr into next 2 stitches, 1 htr into next stitch, 1 dc}. Repeat bracket section to last 6 stitches; make 2 ch, miss 2 stitches, 1 dc, 1 htr, tr into last 2 stitches. Row 5: using white, ch 1, dc into next 4 stitches. {Inserting hook from front of work, work 2 dc into unused stitches three rows below, dc into next 10 stitches}. Repeat brackets to last 4 stitches, dc into next 3 stitches, dc into top of 3 chain. Row 6: ch 1, dc to end. Rows 7 and 8: using red, ch 1, dc into next stitch, {1 htr, 2 tr, 2 dtr, 2 tr, 1 htr, 1 dc, make 2 chain, miss 2 stitches, 1 dc}. Repeat brackets to end. Row 9: using white, ch 1, dc into next 10 stitches. {Inserting hook at front work 2 dc into unused stitches 3 rows below, dc into next 10 stitches}. Repeat to end. Repeat rows 2 to 9 until work measures approximately 70 cm, ending with Row 2. Do not fasten off white, but put in stitch holder while you fold the bag. Which is the wrong side and which the right is down to your own preference; I liked the toothed effect I got folding it the way I did, but you may prefer the reverse. Just make sure you fasten in the ends on what will be your wrong side. You will be joining the sides on the outside, not inside out, so bear that in mind. Fold the work so that the front matches the back (you do this by folding at the bottom in the middle of two colour rows, so one row is on the front and one on the back; you do the same at the top to form the flap). Do not fold in half, but give yourself about 3 colour rows at the top for a flap. Pin into place. Reinsert hook and turn work so you are going down the side, and working with right side facing and white wool, make {1dc, 1 htr, 4 tr, 1 htr, 1 dc}. Repeat this evenly down the side. When you come to the point where the sides are pinned together work through both sides, thus joining the sides together with the edging. Fasten off at the bottom and rejoin yarn to opposite side. Work the same edging down that side to join it. Now attach the white yarn to the centre of the front flap and make a small button loop by making a chain loop and working dc into each stitch of the chain, slipstitching down at each end. The size of the loop will depend on the size of the button you are using. Alternatively you could make a couple of ties and stitch them on to tie it down, but I found a rather nice gold button with a royal coat of arms on which I thought went well with the red, white and blue. Trimmings are optional; I made four tassels using the three colours of yarn and attached them at the corners of the flap and bottom corners of the bag, and stitched on two blue fabric roses I found in my trimmings box, but you might like to use something else.

STRAP: Using two strands of white, and working into edge of bag at top of left side, attach yarn to bag and make 3 chain. Treble into next 4 stitches, turn. Repeat this {3 ch, 4 tr} till the strap is long enough for the bag to sit comfortably on your hip, allowing for a little stretching when you put weight in the bag. Attach to the right side top of the bag, taking care that the strap is not twisted. Fasten off.

Easy Summer Purse

a simple little bag in crochet cotton

This is a crochet purse I made for the summer, when I realised most of my summer outfits had no pockets and that I didn't want to be hauling a handbag around on hot days. So I crocheted up a quick purse (it took forty minutes) to hold my mobile, keys and so on. The beauty of this is, you can use almost any pattern, yarn or colour. I used a basic shell motif, white Anchor cotton and a 2.75 hook, and a little gold bell for a fastener.

What I did was make my starting row twice the width I wanted my bag to be, then just crocheted till it was long enough to hold what I wanted. Then I folded it in half (no need to fasten off), and crocheted right around three sides, fastening the open edge together and making it appear as if the folded side had been open. You just crochet through both sides on the open edges. I used a double crochet (single crochet to US readers) row, but you could do it with a picot edging if you liked.

Once I was back at the open top I went along one edge making a row of trebles (double in US), then back again decreasing by working two together at each end. One more decreasing row, and then I slip-stitched to the middle, made a loop of about four chain, and slip-stitched into the next treble. I went back around the chain working five dc (sc In US) into it, then ss around the 5 dc and to the other end of the flap, and fastened off.

Reattaching the cotton to the top at one side I worked 3 chain, then 3 trebles so that the bag strap was attached to the side of the bag. I then worked a 4 treble row, repeating till it was as long as I wanted (if you are using a thin cotton, remember it will stretch a little if you put anything heavy in the bag) and slipstitching it to the opposite side. I then attached the cotton to the front of the bag just below where the flap ended, and worked a short length of chain. I left a long end to which I fastened the bell, putting it through the loop to fasten the bag. Done! If you put keys in one, remember to put them in a little bag or pouch, or they will fall through, and don't put anything small in unless it's in a purse, but a mobile will stay quite secure in one of these, and so will a pack of tissues, compact or other essentials.

Black and White Bag - Very simple and seamless shoulder bag in DK

Requires approx 50 g each of two colours of dk yarn, 3.5 hook, button.

Using Colour A, make 42 chain. Round 1; Treble into third chain from hook, tr to last chain, tr4 in last chain, turn corner and treble down other side of starting chain to last ch, working 3 tr into last chain. SS into top of 3 chain. 84 stitches. Join all rounds until beginning of flap. Rd 2; ch 3, tr into same stitch as chain, tr 40, inc in next 2, tr to last stitch, inc. 88. Rd 3; ch 3, tr into same stitch, tr 42, inc in next 2, tr to last, inc. 92. Rd 4; working into back loops only, ch 3, tr in each stitch. Rrd 5; working into both loops, dc all round. Change to Colour B. Rd 6; ch 3, (dtr round front post of next treble below dc row, tr into next dc), repeat to end. Rd 7; dc all round. Change to A. Rd 8; ch 3, (tr into next dtr, dtr round front post on treble row below), repeat to end. Repeat rounds 5 - 8, changing colours every 2 rows, till work measures 9” (22.5 cm), ending with a dc row. Do not fasten off.

FLAP Continue colour changes as before but turn at end of each row. Row 1; ch 3, dec 1, pattern 40, dec 1, tr 1, turn. 44 stitches. Row 2; dc to end. Row 3; ch 3, dec 1, pattern 38, dec 1 tr, turn. 42. Row 4; dc to end. Row 5; ch 3, dec 1, pattern 36, dec 1, tr. 40. Row 6; dc to end. Fasten off. Reattach Colour A to one side of flap with right side facing. Row 7; 10 dc down side of flap, dc across bottom edge of flap, dc 10 up other side, turn. 60. Row 8; dc 28, make 3 chain, miss 2 dc, dc to end. Row 9; dc into each stitch to 3 chain, dc into chain space, dc to end. Fasten off. Position button on front where buttonhole comes when flap is folded shut and stitch in place.

STRAP Using A, reattach to one side of top just behind flap. Ch 3, tr 4 across next stitches. Turn. Tr across these 5 stitches till strap is long enough for bag to sit comfortably on your shoulder, allowing for it to stretch a couple of inches when weight is placed in the bag. Attach to opposite side without twisting. If you intend to carry heavy things in the bag, you may prefer to make a strap 10 trebles wide and fold it in half, catching the row ends together and then attaching it to the bag.

Fish Fingers Tawashi Mitt

Requires; about 10 g each of yellow and orange bamboo DK yarn; 3 mm hook.

With orange, make a magic ring and work 6 dc into it. Rd 1; inc in each. 12. Rd 2; (dc 1, inc) to end. 18. Rd 3; (dc 2, inc) to end. 24. Change colour (continue to change after 3 rows until you reach the tail). Rd 4; (dc3, inc) to end. 30. Rd 5; dc. Rd 6; (inc, dc 4) to end. 36. Now continue in straight dc until the fish is long enough to cover your fingers from the tips to the base. Now turn for next row. From now on, change colour after 2 rows. Dc 18, turn. Next row; dec, dc 14, dec. 16. Continue like this decreasing every row until 8 stitches remain. On next 3 rows, inc at each end (ending up with 14). Next row; work 2 tr into first stitch, tr into next, (tr 2 into next stitch, tr) to end. 21. Fasten off and sew in ends. Now using both yarns together, reattach to one end of tail and work dc evenly down side of tail, all round opening, up other side of tail and across top. Fasten off. Finally, reattach doubled yarn to side of fishy where tail begins and work dc all round sides of fish. When you get to the nose end, work a 9 chain loop for hanging it up. Fasten off and sew in ends. If you like you could add fins when working around the sides. You may also want to embroider an eye on with black.

Tawashi on a Stick

I have a problem with my tawashi - I can't reach to the bottom of my tallest beakers and jugs. So here's my solution - a twashi on a stick! I've used a wooden spoon, but plastic or firm silicon would work as well if not better - just don't forget to let the wooden ones dry out properly.

REQUIRES

Yarn - 10 g bamboo dk in two colours (or 20g of one colour doubled)

Hook / Needles - 3 mm

Sundries - wooden spoon about 25 cm

INSTRUCTIONS

Make 7 chain (or chain long enough to go across top of spoon you are using), using two strands of yarn together. Rd 1; Dc into second chain from hook, dc to last chain. 3 dc into last chain, turn and work dc up back of chain to last stitch, work 2 dc in last. 15. Rd 2; dc. Rd 3; inc, dc 5, inc, dc 1, inc, dc to last 2 stitches, inc, dc. 19. Now work in dc till cover fits over your spoon bowl and down to where it narrows for the handle. Next rd; dc 2, (ch 1, miss 1 dc, dc2) to end. Next rd; dc into each dc and each ch space to end. 19. Work two more rounds of dc and join with ss, fasten off. Now using two strands again, make a chain long enough to thread through the spaces, pull up and fasten off to hold the cover onto the spoon. Leave a long tail at start and finish of the chain so that you can sew them over the ends to form a rough ball, which will help prevent it slipping out as you use your tawashi stick. Thread chain through the gaps, slip cover over spoon, pull chain tight and tie off.

The Gallery

Click thumbnail to view full-size
I was experimenting here; trying my hand at the Japanese tawashi, a pot-scrubber, and also using a recycled cotton fibre.This tawashi was made with crepe yarn.A variation of the Royal Wedding bag I made for my mother.I am making a gamer's afghan (or gamerghan) for my son and this is a Halo emblem, the pattern for which I found on RavelryI created my own pattern for this Brotherhood of Nod emblem for my son's gamerghanThis uses the same stitch as for my Royal Wedding bag, but on a huge scale - I made it into a warm afghan in primary colours for my nephew and his partner, as a housewarming gift.A side view of my cattypillow cover showing his paws and tail.
I was experimenting here; trying my hand at the Japanese tawashi, a pot-scrubber, and also using a recycled cotton fibre.
I was experimenting here; trying my hand at the Japanese tawashi, a pot-scrubber, and also using a recycled cotton fibre.
This tawashi was made with crepe yarn.
This tawashi was made with crepe yarn.
A variation of the Royal Wedding bag I made for my mother.
A variation of the Royal Wedding bag I made for my mother.
I am making a gamer's afghan (or gamerghan) for my son and this is a Halo emblem, the pattern for which I found on Ravelry
I am making a gamer's afghan (or gamerghan) for my son and this is a Halo emblem, the pattern for which I found on Ravelry
I created my own pattern for this Brotherhood of Nod emblem for my son's gamerghan
I created my own pattern for this Brotherhood of Nod emblem for my son's gamerghan
This uses the same stitch as for my Royal Wedding bag, but on a huge scale - I made it into a warm afghan in primary colours for my nephew and his partner, as a housewarming gift.
This uses the same stitch as for my Royal Wedding bag, but on a huge scale - I made it into a warm afghan in primary colours for my nephew and his partner, as a housewarming gift.
A side view of my cattypillow cover showing his paws and tail.
A side view of my cattypillow cover showing his paws and tail.

Crochet Hook Case

I'm getting very fond of no-sew or minimum sew patterns these days, and here's my latest - a simple little case which will hold your crochet hooks, stitch holders, or cabling needles. Make it longer to hold more, or taller to hold bigger items - or shorter for smaller ones!

Requires about 25 g DK in main colour, small amount of contrast DK for trim, 3.5 hook, 2 press-studs (poppers).

Make 29 chain. Dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc to last ch. Dc 3 in that and then work down back of chain to first stitch, working 2 dc into that. SS to top of 1st dc. 60 stitches. Rd1; dc all round. Rd2; dc 35, ss to front to form first pocket.. SS to the front after every 5 stitches except on the final 5, when you ss to first stitch of round as usual. Repeat these two rows until the pockets will hold your hooks securely - about 12 cm for mine - ending with Rd 1. Make sure that when working the round of plain dc that you do not accidentally make stitches, and that on the ss rows you make your stitches in the same place each time or your pockets will not be straight. When the pockets are long enough, turn at the end of the last row and work straight dc on the back 30 stitches until you have a flap long enough to fold over your hooks and secure to the front. Be sure to leave at least two rows ‘headroom’ at the fold for your hooks or they will protrude through. On the last row, change to your contrast colour on the last stich and turn the work sideways. Using colour B work the edging (1 dc, miss sp, 3 htr in a cluster, miss 1 sp, repeat) evenly down the side of the flap, around the top edge of the pockets, up the other side of the flap and across the top, and ss to first stitch of edge. Fasten off. Reattach contrast yarn to side edge of case with RS facing and work edging down the side, across the bottom, and up the other side. Ss to edging on flap and fasten off. Now sew your press-studs in place on the underside of the flap, making sure to position them so the fold is far enough from the top of your hooks. When sewing the stud onto the pocket side, I recommend placing something inside the pockets so you do not accidentall stitch them shut - a pencil or pen works fine.

Bath Strap

I found it hard to get a back scrubber that was flexible enough and long enough to be comfortable, so I made my own from a coarse hemp yarn. This one can be used not only on my back but my feet as well. Remember, hemp gets softer with repeated washing, so pick a good stiff one to begin with.

REQUIRES

Yarn - Anchor Nativa Colour A, 60g; colour B, 25 g.

Hook / Needles - 4 mm

Sundries - None

INSTRUCTIONS

With Colour A, make 9 chain. Row 1: dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc to end. 8. Row 2: dc. Row 3: inc at each end. 10. Row 4 - 8; dc. Row 9: inc at each end. 12. Row 10 - 20; dc. Row 21: inc at each end. 14. Rows 22 - 36; dc. Row 37; inc at each end. 16. Rows 38 - 52; dc. Row 53: dec at each end. 14. Rows 54 - 68; dc. Row 69; dec at each end. 12. Rows 70 - 80; dc. Row 81; dec at each end. 10. Rows 82 - 86; dc. Row 87; dec at each end. 8. Row 88; dc. Fasten off.

Attach colour B at corner of one end and work dc evenly all around piece. SS to 1st stitch. Work one more row dc and fasten off.

Handles

Reattach yarn with a dc on one end about 4 stitches from the edge and work 30 chain; dc into 4th stitch from edge on other end and ss into next dc. Turn and work 30 dc around chain till you are back where you started. SS into next stitch and fasten off. Repeat at other end.

No-Sew Hippy Headband

I made this simple headband for a baby girl but you can make it for any size of head you like, in any colours. It has only one piece of thread to sew in.

Amount required varies depending on size worked, in two colours; use a reasonably soft and elastic DK like Stylecraft Wondersoft Pearl. Also requires 3.5 hook.

Make 11 chain in colour A. Dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc to end. 10. Work 6 rows dc. Halfway along the last row, lay the end of Colour B on the wrong side of the work and crochet over it for at least 4 stitches. Flower: on next row dc 5, making sure to pick up B and carry it along the back. Change to B and work (3 chain, 3 tr and ss) into same stitch as last dc. The bracketed section forms 1 petal. Now turn work sideways and work petal into side of dc you worked the last petal into. Turn again and work petal into top of dc on row below, then turn once more and work petal into opposite side. SS to back using A, cut off B. Now dc to end using A and working over cut off end of B. Make sure you have 10 dc altogether. Work 11 rows dc and then another flower. Repeat until band is length required, ending with 5 rows dc after last flower. SS last row to first, making sure to pick up the tail of yarn left at the start and work it in with your running yarn so as to fasten it off. Fasten off and sew in the only end left. Trim off any tail ends of yarn sticking out on wrong side.

Hook Up!

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    • SheilaSchnauzies profile image

      Sheila 3 years ago from Omaha, NE

      Hi there!! It's me, Squidoo's Creative Crocheter Contributor here, stopping by to give your awesome crochet lens a lens rank boost! Have a nice day!

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      getmoreinfo 5 years ago

      The black and white bag has a really nice pattern on it.

    • TolovajWordsmith profile image

      Tolovaj Publishing House 5 years ago from Ljubljana

      Some of designs look like optical illusions... Or maybe they are really moving?