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Step-by-Step Knit Felt Purse

Updated on December 20, 2012

If You Know How to Knit You Can Make a Purse.


It is a free form step-by-step instruction.

(Just in case you wondered.)

Any questions you have along the way can be answered in the ASK ME A QUESTION section near the bottom of this article. Or click on this link.

Making a knit, felted purse is an art. I think I've simplified the process.




2 skeins Patons Classic Wool Yarn in Main Color or 480 yards of a complimentary color wool yarn

1 skein Patons Classic Wool Yarn in Alternate Color or 240 yards of a complimentary color wool yarn

1 skein Patons Kroy Sock Yarn in multi-colors to match main colors.

Size 13, 29" long circular needles (I prefer bamboo to metal)

(Circular Needles Information)

Set Size 9 straight needles

Stitch Markers that slide easily over the size 13 needles, (4 Total. One stitch marker different color from other 3)

Measuring Tape

Darning or big-eye needle

Agitating top load washing machine (optional) You can felt by hand, very time consuming.

Feel free to copy and past any of these steps to your word processing software. If you would like a .pdf file of the pattern let me know. I have one I can send via email. Contact me.

Please do not reproduce this LENS for resale.

What you need to know before starting:

1. How to Knit and Purl with straight needles and circular needles.

2. How to Slip a stitch.

3. How to decrease stitches, the K2tog and SSK and how to increase stitches, knit one in front and back of a stitch.

4. Pick up stitches along an edge.

If you do not know these techniques, go to Knit Help or contact me.

Click Here to Find my CONTACT Info

Under my photo top left is a button "Contact" I look forward to hearing from you.

A few of my original bags:


Now you can download the .pdf file and print it for your use!

Totally Free ($4.99 Value).

Step 1 - About the Bag and the Yarn - Knitting the Bag with WOOL YARN

A view of the yarns used.
A view of the yarns used.

Starting with Wool yarn, this is a have-to. Wool yarn felts. No other yarn felts. Alpaca works best mixed with wool. If you're using a blend, make sure the blend is more than 50 or 60% wool, felting may take several washes with blended yarns.

The finished size of this bag is:

11" wide at the base,

7" wide closure flap,

7" tall,

9.5" wide at base of straps,

26" long strap

smallest part of flap 5"

Before felting the knitted piece measured:

16" wide at the base,

10" wide closure flap,

8 " tall,

13" wide at base of straps

Smallest part of flap 7"

31" long strap

I used Sesame and Chestnut Brown colored Wool Yarn - Patons Classic Wool. I also used Sock Yarn multicolored tans and browns.


Step 2 - Knit the Base (knit from bottom up) - Knit the base using circular needles size 13 but use them as if they are straight needles.


Holding two strands of the yarn together (in my case the brown) cast on 34 stitches using size 13 circular needles.

You will slip the first stitch every time you turn your work (you're not knitting in the round yet) SO:

Slip the first stitch, knit 33,

turn, next row slip the first stitch, knit 33,

turn (repeat until you have 12 slipped stitches on each end which is 24 rows)

Once you have 12 slipped stitches on each end of the rectangle you are ready to begin picking up stitches down one "end" of the base.


Any questions you have along the way can be answered in the ASK ME A QUESTION section near the bottom of this article. Or click on this link.

Step 3 - Prepare to Knit in Round - Pick up stitches and add stitch MARKERS preparing for knitting in the round.

Place Markers
Place Markers

Now you're ready to build the purse up from the rectangular base.

Now drop the left needle, beginning at the upcoming short side of your rectangle put your right needle through the "slipped stitch" in the base and pull all three strands of yarn through leaving it on the right needle (picking up a stitch) along with the 34 stitches from making your last row already on the needle. Stitches will accumulate on the circular wire attaching the two needles.

This presents a problem:

Being able to distinguish where your strap will start and end requires a MARKER!

My markers look like little plastic safety pins. (see picture).. The "Safety Pin Markers" stay in the work all the way through knitting the bag and preserve the stitches for the strap and the width of the sides of the bag.

So, place a marker between the last (34th stitch) and the 1st of the 12 added stitches, pick up in all 12 slipped stitches on the side, place a marker, pick up stitches in the 34 cast on stitches, and place a marker, then pick up 12 on the other end of the rectangle, place a marker. It would help a lot if the last marker is a different style or color than all the others, because this is the beginning of knitting in the round.

If you don't have markers, small rubber bands, actual metal safety pins, a different type and/or color of yarn tied in a small circle, or key rings all work as markers. Be creative. They need to be large enough to slide over the needles and move with your work.

After knitting the solid colored base with two strands of wool yarn held together, then adding your markers and picking up stitches you'll be starting up the sides of the purse. This is where you can add the multicolored sock yarn to the two strands of yarn you're already working with, this will give you a tweed textured look in the finished piece. More details in Step FOUR

Step 4 - A REVIEW of Steps 1 to 3 - Knitting from the base up and adding the stripe.

Review Step-by-Step
Review Step-by-Step

Once you add the multicolored sock yarn to the two strands you're already holding, you're ready to knit in the round.


After knitting the base and placing your markers, you start knitting in the round on your circular needles. Once you've knit at least 10 rows or more you're ready to add some interest. Embellish your bag by adding a wide stripe. Really the stripe can be anywhere, experiment with several patterns as you design your own purses.

To add the wide stripe pattern on the purse, at the beginning of a row, any point in the first 30 rows remove a Chestnut Brown strand of yarn from the3 yarns you're holding, cut it leaving about a 8" tail, and add the "Sesame" colored strand. To add a new color, add it at the beginning of a row - at your unique colored marker. Wrap the new yarn over the working yarns by laying it on top with the yarn end in front of your work. knit the first stitch then move the strand to the back of your work, you will weave this in when the bag is finished. If it bothers you, temporarily make a loose knot with it tying it to the Chestnut Brown strand you just cut.

Experiment. In the past I've added a stripe closer to the top, I've added multiple stripes, a narrow one, then a thicker one, then another matching narrow equal distance like a racing stripe. I've added 4 or 5 stripes of equal distance throughout the bag. Changing colors adds a stripe that wraps your entire bag.

Eventually you will want the purse to come in on the sides to make the base wider than the top opening. Step FIVE explains how to bring the sides in and still retain the width on the sides for your straps and shaping.


Any questions you have along the way can be answered in the ASK ME A QUESTION section near the bottom of this article.


Step 5 - Shaping the Bag - Shaping Your Bag Using Decreases

You can visualize the decreases in this picture.
You can visualize the decreases in this picture.


To DECREASE stitches, and begin bringing the sides in, start about 1/2 way up the bag.

It will have a full look at the bottom and a nice shape at the top.

The bag was about 6" high when I started the decrease process.

(NOTE: always preserve the 12 stitches on each end between markers as this is the width of your straps - never decrease in this area until working on the straps).

Knit one of the 34 stitches on the front then DECREASE by knitting two stitches together K2tog, finish knitting to the last 3 stitches before the next marker, slip a stitch as if knitting, slip another stitch as if knitting, then put the two slipped stitches back on the left needle and knit through the back loop of both stitches. (This will give a right slanting decrease on the left side of the bag.)

Knit one before the marker then move the marker and knit 12 stitches (preserved for the strap). After the next marker knit one, then K2tog as above. Knit to the last 3 stitches, slip, slip as above and knit through the back loop of both, knit one and you are back to the first marker in these instructions.

Knitting instructions for decrease in knitting terms. At 1st marker, K1, k2tog, k28, ssk, k1 slip marker, knit 12 slip marker, k1, k2tog, k28, ssk, k1, slip marker knit 12, back to first marker and beginning of the next row. Now simply knit several rows and repeat the decrease row. Don't go too narrow, remember in the felting process the bag shrinks approximately 25-30%.

I knit several more rows, looks like about 12 and decreased again as above, then did the same thing in another 8 or 10 rows. You can tell in the picture that about 6 stitches less at the top than at the base before starting the straps and flap.

Step 6 Closure Flap and Straps - Straps and the Closure Flap

If you have decreased in 3 different rows your original 34 stitches are now 28 on the front and back of the bag.

Once your piece is approximately 13 inches high starting at the unique colored marker bind off the first 34 stitches. Move marker, knit 12, move marker knit 34, now slip 12 stitches to a stitch holder. I used 3 of my small markers to hold my 12 stitches. They will be picked back up when you start the strap. A stitch holder looks like a big light weight safety pin.

Now turn your work and Purl the next 34 stitches, on the opposite side of the bag, at the marker place the other 12 stitches reserved for the strap onto a stitch holder.

alternately Knit one row and Purl the next keeping this pattern until the flap lays nicely about 1/2 way down your bag as in picture for Step FIVE.

To round off the closure flap, I did a couple of decrease rows similar to the decreases on the bag.

Here's what I did: K1, K2tog, K2tog, k8, K2tog, k8, SSK ,SSK, K1. (Now you're down to 23 stitches.)

Purl a row.

I decreased one more time on the next knit row, k1, k2tog, k17 , SSK, K1 then I bound off the last 7 stitches on the next knit row. Bind off 21 remaining stitches loosely.

The flap is done, now for the strap. Cut your yarn.


Change needles: Using your SIZE 9 straight needles:

Move one set of the 12 stitches preserved on the stitch holder to your Size 9 straight needles. Put stitches in from left to right with the outside, right side, of the bag facing you. Knit the 12 stitches on the right side by attaching your 3 strands of yarn held together. Turn and purl the wrong side. Keep turning the work and knit right side, purl wrong side about 3 inches in this color (8 rows), change colors or continue the strap in the color you have started. I changed colors about 5" up the strap, then counted rows to change back when I got to the other side of the bag.

Decrease 2. (k1, k2 tog, k6, k2 tog, k1) Purl next row, k one row p next for 8 rows, and decrease 2 again on a knit row. Purl the next row and start the strap pattern.

Narrow part of the strap pattern:

K8 on right side

K2, Purl4, K2 on wrong side

Repeat until strap is 26 or 27 inches long

This will give the strap a design and keep it from rolling, in other words it will lay flat when felted.

Knit at least 26" then increase back to 12 stitches. You'll need 12 stitches for the last 5" of the strap to match the other side at the beginning.

You will increase by 2 stitches. Then knit right side, purl wrong side 8 rows and increase by 2 again.

Increase row: k1, k1 in front and back, k4, k1 in front and back, k1 (10 stitches) repeat after 8 rows and knit/purl as the beginning of the strap.

(There are several ways to increase, another method can be used if you're familiar. Since you're felting the item the method isn't crucial.)

Leave the 12 stitches on your size 9 straight needle ending with a purl row and go to step SEVEN.

Step 7 Final Steps

Finishing your bag.

If you've never used the "kitchener stitch" to attach two needles of stitches to each other, here's a video for that purpose. Pretty complicated at first. Watch the video several times, you'll get it - practice on two separate sample pieces before trying it here on this bag.

kitchener stitch - invisible horizontal seaming

You will love the looks of this once it's accomplished.

You already have your size 9 needle in the 12 stitches on the strap you just created, now add the other size 9 straight needle to the 12 stitches on the other side of the bag preserved in a stitch holder. Both needle points should be facing the same direction, each one has 12 stitches on it, hold them parallel with the right sides facing you. Cut the yarn about 18 or 20" long. You will thread this through a big eye needle for the kitchener step.

View the video.

Thread a darning needle with your 3 strands of yarn. You will place the sewing needle into the 1st stitch on front knitting needle purlwise (right to left), then into the first stitch on the back knitting needle as if to knit (needle goes in from left to right.) Leave these stitches on the needles for now.

You are virtually sewing these stitches together, yet knitting the stitches for an invisible seam.

Now you're ready for the pattern:

On the front needle: Knit the first stitch and drop it off the needle, then Purl the second stitch on the front needle, but leave it on the needle.

Then on the back needle Purl the first stitch and drop it off the needle, then Knit the second stitch but leave it on the needle.

Here's the pattern after the initial Stitches that you left on the needle (Purl front, Knit back - leave on)

Then repeat these steps:

Knit - drop - Purl (front) (in other words: knit the first stitch off the front needle but insert the needle purlwise on the second stitch and leave it on)

Purl - drop - Knit (back) (purl the first stitch off the needle but insert the needle into the second stitch knitwise)



Any questions you have along the way can be answered in the ASK ME A QUESTION section near the bottom of this article. Or click on this link.

Video showing Kitchener Stitch - Weaving or Attaching two knit ends together

Step 8 - The Felting Process - FELTING - Washing in hot soapy water to shrink and shape.

Once you've trimmed and worked your extra yarn ends into your work you are ready to felt your bag.

I love measuring every aspect of a bag before and after to keep track of the shrinking process. It's amazing how they shape up in the wash.

This close up picture not only shows the felted fabric's textured detail, but it also shows off a really nice pottery starfish I used to embellish the purse.

I use a king size pillowcase to wash the piece because it is long enough to tie a tight knot in the top. Drop the knit bag into the pillow case, tie a tight not in the top, run hottest water in your washer with laundry soap, add an old pair of jeans for agitation (must have agitation).

Only fill the washer 1/3 to 1/2 full, just enough to get the jeans and pillowcase covered with water to wash both the jeans and the bag in the pillowcase.

The first thing that happens to your wet wool bag is it gets very stretchy, loose and out of shape. If you notice this step in the process it means you're checking your bag way too soon. Give it at least 5 to 8 minutes before stopping the washer and opening the pillowcase to check the bag. Some people like a looser felt, others like a very thick dense felt I suggest that if you followed this pattern you felt this item for at least 14 minutes. You'll have a preference once you've experimented.

I let the washer rinse and spin my bags. I check them after the wash cycle, and I rinse with cold water. It takes a lot less time for them to air dry. (DO NOT DRY IN THE DRYER)

Tips on drying and shaping. After placing my bags on boxes wrapped in plastic bags, or wood blocks to shape them and let them dry, my sister suggested rolling a towel up into the shape of the bag and stuffing it in there - the towel wicks the moisture out.

YES IT SMELLS LIKE WET WOOL - but CLEAN wet wool. Leave to air dry for about a day, if you've shaped it well with the towel it is ready for a little cosmetic touch and some embellishments and ready to use.

Order all supplies for this project here.

Clover Takumi Bamboo Circular 29-Inch Knitting Needles, Size 13
Clover Takumi Bamboo Circular 29-Inch Knitting Needles, Size 13

I really like this brand needle for knitting in the round.

Clover Takumi 13-Inch Single point, Size 9
Clover Takumi 13-Inch Single point, Size 9

Buy one set for knitting your strap


Final Touches to your bag.

I use a simple plastic razor to shave the fine hairs off of the felted bag. Sometimes it takes more than one razor. Here's a closeup picture of the bag before shaving.

After shaving the brown section you can see the multi-colored sock yarn popping through.

See the before picture above.

I've used the above pattern to make two more bags - Here is the first bag on the right, and a second to it's left.

Two from same pattern
Two from same pattern

I used gray and coral along with a multi-colored sock yarn for the second bag. I got it down twelve stitches by decreasing a few stitches each row, then gathered them together after I bound off the last 12 stitches, before I felted the bag.

The 3rd try with this pattern - my prototype - Bag #3

I used solid charcoal and held a self striping "shades of gray" wool yarn as the second strand. I gave it a solid gray bottom and a solid gray handle.

Before Felting Measurements

and after felting

I made another prototype, only I made it a little larger. I started with the same number of stitches, cast on 34, decreased the same number of stitches then made the strap about 6 to 8 inches longer than the pattern. Just experimenting here.

Here is a picture before felting. I'll post anther below after felting.


Strap 36"

17" wide laying flat or 34" around at top

20" wide laying flat or 40" around at bottom

Base 5" x 14"

Height 13" from base

Flap 11" x 11 "


Strap 32"

width (front and back) 14" each

width each side 4" each

Base 4" x 11"

Height 9" from base

Flap 8" x 8"

Same pattern as the step-by-step, but larger, with larger flap and longer strap. Great tote bag.

Same pattern as the step-by-step, but larger, with larger flap and longer strap.  Great tote bag.
Same pattern as the step-by-step, but larger, with larger flap and longer strap. Great tote bag.

I named this bag Peggy Lee, because Peggy Lee adores the color scheme.

I named this bag Peggy Lee, because Peggy Lee adores the color scheme.
I named this bag Peggy Lee, because Peggy Lee adores the color scheme.



Step-by-Step Knit and Felt a purse is only one of many of my articles. - I also write about my life and other interests.

Biker ministry - what a trip!
The Photo is my husband with an arm around a biker's shoulder at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial Wall Run For The Wall 2011. The gentleman rode his motorcycle...

Bikerministry Lensmaster is Judy Cockrum.
You'll find that many of my writings are emotion packed, and written from the heart. I love to write. I've been published in a periodical. I've written an e...

Writing lenses for fun and profit.
Author's note: I really enjoy looking back through this article and improving on it. One of the prominent things that stands out is how my goals have not on...

Knit Felt Rug Free Pattern
Knit Felt Rug Free Pattern



Finished size

Each square: 8 ins x 8 ins square (20.5 x 20.5 cm)

Rug before felting: 21 ins x 27 ins (53.5 x 68.5 cm)

Rug after felting: 16 ins x 25 ins (40.5 x 63.5 cm)


You will need about 810 yards (740 m) total of bulky weight wool yarn. (Superwash wools, synthetics, and cotton yarns will not work in this felted pattern.)

We used Reynolds Lopi (100% Icelandic wool; 110 yards [101 m]/3.5 oz [100 g] skein):

Colour A -- #57 Gray, 330 yards (302 m)

Colour B -- #332 Antique Gold, 80 yards (73 m)

Colour C -- #389 Burnt Red, 80 yards (73 m)

Colour D -- #240 Golden Green, 80 yards (73 m)

Colour E -- #215 Plum, 80 yards (73 m)

Colour F -- #104 Terra Cotta, 80 yards (73 m)

Colour G -- #98 Cadet Blue, 80 yards (73 m)


US size 11 (8 mm). Adjust the needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Gauge (before felting)

10 stitches and 20 rows = 4 ins (10 cm) in garter stitch.


US size Q (16 mm) crochet hook; tapestry needle


When a knit wool piece is washed in hot water with lots of agitation, felt is created. The fibres lock together under these conditions to form a dense, heavy fabric. As you may have discovered the hard way if you've accidentally washed a sweater in hot water, felt is forever.

Make the rug

Click on link above to see rest of the pattern.

Knit and Felt This Purse
Knit and Felt This Purse

Free .pdf Download of the Step-by-Step How to Knit and Felt a Purse

Here is the link to the free pattern in .pdf format.

My readers receive this free. If you go to my Etsy shop it costs $1.00. How cool is this?

Watch This Video to Learn How to Knit With Circular Needles. - It is Simpler Than You Think!

be sure to ask me any questions that come up and I'll respond as quickly as possible.

Is this Step-by-Step instruction on target?

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    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 4 years ago

      @anonymous: This article s actually the Peggy Lee pattern. If you start your base about 10 or 12 stitches longer, and decrease occasionally when knitting from the base up, just knit the piece larger and taller than the medium size bags. The colors come from changing out the variegated wool or self striping wool yarns and a continuous strand of self striping sock yarn. Feel free to private message me on my Facebook account for more information. Judy Cockrum

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      I love all of these purses. Keep up your good works on knitting & the ministry that is so great for this time of our lives. Love to hear from you too about the experinces you have in yout ministries.

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      what colors are in the Peggy Lee purse. & please tell me which pattern that one is??? I will pay for it just let me know. Thank you in advance

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 5 years ago

      @anonymous: Liz, The item is made by holding two strands of wool yarn and one strand of multicolored sock yarn together, you're working with three strands throughout. If you want to change colors and make stripes, then change out the two wool yarns, I did the solid stripes by doing several rows with two of the same color. But I continued to have the sock yarn in the mix, it gives the bumpy look in the fabric because it doesn't felt (shrink) and stays more on the surface of the finished fabric. Hope this answers your questions.

    • profile image

      anonymous 5 years ago

      How many strands of wool yarn do I need to knit this bag. One of the pattern called for 8 or9 different colors of wool yarn & add other yarn to give it different colors. But then I was knitting with 3 yarns. I think I saw where you used 1 strand of wool yarn & 1 reg. yarn. it is right?

    • aesta1 profile image

      Mary Norton 5 years ago from Ontario, Canada

      You have shown how beautiful these bags are. You have made me want to do one myself.

    • profile image

      anonymous 5 years ago

      It does really look lovely. Would like to have one but not sure if I am able to make one for myself:)

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 5 years ago

      @anonymous: Liz First - I added a link to the FREE Pattern in .pdf form to the bottom of this article. Just click on End on your keyboard or go to the bottom of this page and either click on the link or click on the photo and you can download a copy of the pattern from my Google Docs account. Thanks for your inquiry and please feel free to contact me via email if you'd like some personal coaching. I am certainly all about succeeding at this project.

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 5 years ago

      @anonymous: Tipi - you are right!! The first several times I felted items I had mini panic attacks. The only concern was the waste of time and yarn. I tried to see it as a learning experience, but have only had two purses that simply did not work out, only because I didn't make them tall enough. My sister was able to suggest other useable items out of my flops, so it's all good in the end. Thank you for stopping by and for the sincere compliments. I love what I do!

    • profile image

      anonymous 5 years ago

      @bikerministry: thank you so much for your help. I saw a free pattern like the one am making on your site now I can't find it again I will try later. Thanks again.

    • profile image

      anonymous 5 years ago

      I think my favorite part would be at the very end after the felting to see what magic happened to my creation. How excellent and definitely a labor of love in making your purse as well as sharing with others so they can do it too, delightful!

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 5 years ago

      @anonymous: Liz First: Sorry you're having trouble following the pattern. If you go up to step 4, there is a drawing. That is the base of the purse. The strap is 26" long, the base is several rows knitted straight knitting with 34 stitches. Once you have the rectangle base you start knitting circular around the base and build up the purse from the base. Sorry that wasn't clear in the instructions. To pick up stitches you hold your working yarn normal, leave your one stitch on the right needle and begin putting your right needle into the next stitch on the base (as if to knit - front to back) wrap working yarn around the needle and pull through (back to front) but don't knit the stitch, 2 stitches on the needle, repeat all the way around allowing all the stitches you've added to accumulate on the circular needle. Once you have 34 +12 + 34 + 12 on the needles you can start knitting continuous. Be sure to put markers at each corner. I use a unique color marker at the corner where I finish picking up stitches. Before building the sides of the purse. If you click on contact below my photo above you can email me and I'd be glad to coach you if you have further questions. This is a fun project, don't let it get you down. The 26" piece you've already knitted is it very many rows yet? This bag has an attached, everything is one piece, handle. I hope this helps.

    • profile image

      anonymous 5 years ago

      am making my first bag out of wool. I have one side 26 inches like it calls for. I am at the part it says to bind off 51 of the 52 stitches I started with. I have one stitch on my needle it says to pick up 51 stitchs but where am I to pick the stitches up from? also in you article you talk about the base. when & where are you supposed to make the base from? I would appreciate any answer you could help me with

    • profile image

      termit_bronx 6 years ago

      Nicely presented! Blessed by a Squid Angel!*

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 6 years ago

      @Elle-Dee-Esse: This is great news. So glad the step-by-step lens is working. I find that if I hold two yarns together, making sure at least one of them is definitely wool, the purse turns out great! Thank you for the feed back, blessing, likes, comments and favoriting my Etsy. Whew, that's a great cheering section! Blessings in return.

    • Elle-Dee-Esse profile image

      Lynne Schroeder 6 years ago from Blue Mountains Australia

      I made my first bag from scrap yarn using this lens as a guide last week. I had no idea whether or not the yarn was wool and suspected there was a mixture of wool and acrylic. For a first attempt I am pleased with the result. The bag felted nicely after the second run. I just need to work on getting the strap to sit flatter. Thanks. I could get into this! I just favourited your Etsy store as well

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 6 years ago

      I ran this bag contest for well over a month and got several name submissions and votes. Thank you to everyone who participated. I'll sending out the purse kit ASAP.

    • profile image

      anonymous 6 years ago

      How about "Odds & Ends" just because that is always what I find in the bottom of my purse.

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      I would call it the Mary Jane, like the classic shoes. It looks like a classic design that everyone would like.

      greyowl60 at yahoo dot com

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 6 years ago

      @anonymous: Connie - this is definitely a classic name, thanks - I've added it to the list.

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 6 years ago

      @Fidgement: Fidgement Thank you for submitting the name Hobotyn. Cute

    • profile image

      Fidgement 6 years ago

      I like Hobotyn. I'm Fidgement on ravelry

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 6 years ago

      @anonymous: Thank you for your creative name - I've added it to the voting.

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 6 years ago

      @anonymous: I've added Sweet Fuzz to the voting. Thank you for stopping by.

    • profile image

      anonymous 6 years ago

      Hi, Im majphule on ravelry. How about "Sweet Fuzz" it just seems fitting to me. But im quirky like that. lol

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      I'd name it Sparkle. Debbie H. gussek on ravelry

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 6 years ago

      @anonymous: Sweet name - thank you for stopping by and adding a "Bag" name.

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 6 years ago

      @anonymous: Appreciate you stopping by and adding a name to the contest. Good luck.

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 6 years ago

      @anonymous: Thanks for stopping by. I added your contest "name" to the list.

    • profile image

      anonymous 6 years ago

      the pony express! Lovely bag, great contest!

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 6 years ago

      @anonymous: Thank you for submitting a "bag name" to my contest.

    • profile image

      anonymous 6 years ago

      How about The Confetti Bag? That is what I first thought of when I saw it. I'm Dani513 on Ravelry.

    • bikerministry profile image

      bikerministry 6 years ago

      @anonymous: Thank you for the nice compliments. And thanks for adding a purse name to the contest.

    • profile image

      anonymous 6 years ago

      Id call it Baguette in a play on words (Ba get). I love your clear instructions and how you tell us what we need to know to make this great purse.

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      I love this bag and as a beginner I soooo appreciate your list of what you need to know to be able to make it (having gotten over my head a few times). I could make this! I would name it Baguette Pronunciation: ba get as a play on words.

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      I'd call it "Satch" -- short for "satchel".

      (I'm ahappyaccident on Ravelry.)

    • profile image

      anonymous 6 years ago

      Glistening starry sling

      sisterrobinson on Ravelry


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