Birdhouse Ideas: Making Rustic Birdhouses from Salvaged Wood, Reclaimed Lumber and Old Pallets
Building A Birdhouse is the Perfect DIY Project for Re-Using Old Lumber and Salvaged Wood
This rustic birdhouse was made from an old pallet and other pieces of salvaged wood. The ends and bottom pieces of the birdhouse were cut from a cedar corner board removed during a remodeling job, and I salvaged the milled side pieces from the railings of a cedar play set. A few slats from an old pallet provided the roof pieces and door trim, and the metal stars tacked to each of the ends are re-purposed Christmas ornaments.
Designed to attract robins, the birdhouse resembles an old barn or rustic farm stable. The aged wood adds a nice weathered patina from years spent outdoors. In the winter, small birds use the birdhouse to take refuge from the snow and chilling winds.
Building a birdhouse requires only basic woodworking skills and hand tools, and using salvaged wood keeps usable lumber out of the landfill. And because I salvaged all of the wood for this project, the cost of the lumber is $0.
Photos and diagrams by the author
Inspect and Clean the Old Wood
Salvaged and reclaimed lumber is often weathered, dirty and damp. Clean off the old wood with a stiff bristle brush to remove any dirt or loose paint. If the wood was found outdoors, bring it inside and let lumber acclimate in the shop or garage for several days to remove any moisture. Most salvaged lumber has already lost its original moisture, but the wood may be damp from exposure to rain or snow.
Inspect the wood carefully for nails, screws or any other foreign objects that can damage cutting edges and cause injuries. A metal detector is very useful for finding and removing bits of steel and iron. Mark the usable sections of lumber, and cut away split or damaged sections.
The exact size of this nest box is not critical, and you can change the dimensions to accommodate the pieces of salvaged wood in your lumber bin. This design can be easily adapted into a platform style bird feeder to attract cardinals and mourning doves, or into a birdhouse for cavity nesting birds such as wrens and chickadees.
Do not salvage any wood showing signs of termites or powder post beetles. You do not want to risk bringing these critters home!
Assembling the Nest Box
Cut the reclaimed wood into the following dimensions:
- Ends -- 4 ½" W x 9 ¾" L (Qty of 2 needed)
- Sides -- 14" L x 3 ¾" W (Qty of 4 needed)
- Bottom -- 12 ¼" L x 4 ½" W
- Roof Sections: 15 ¼" L x 3 ¼" W x 3/8" Thick
Mark and cut the end pieces to form the 45-degree gables for the roof. Rip one edge of the side pieces to match the 45-degree slope of the roofline. Position the sides together with the end pieces. The exact height of the end pieces is determined by the combined width of the side pieces. In this case, after milling the 45 degree bevel, the sides are 7 ½" high.
With weatherproof nails or screws, attach the sides to the end pieces, taking care to line up the beveled edges at the top as well as the bottom edges.
Measure and mark out the opening for the nesting shelf, then use a jigsaw to cut out the opening. Use s rasp, file or sandpaper to round over the edges and smooth out the curved top of the opening.
Cut off the tips of the corners on the bottom piece to allow the birdhouse to drain. Press the bottom piece into place inside of the end and side pieces, and then secure it with nails or screws.
Lay out the first layer of roof slats, starting at the peak of the roofline and then working down towards the side. The roof slats should overhang the side by about a 1 ½" but the exact size is not critical. It is more important that the roofline and overhang fits the birdhouse and looks good to you. Depending on the width of the slats, it may be necessary to cut the width of a slat to fit properly. Nail the slats into place.
Repeat the lay out of the slats on the second side, overlapping the edge of the top slat on the first side as shown in the diagram.
Lay out the second layer of roofing slats, using care to overlap any joints on the lower level. Rip the roof slats to the proper width to accommodate the overlap, and to keep both sides of the roof even.
Cut the door trim from sections of leftover roof slats. The uprights are cut long enough to raise the cross member above the curved opening, forming the recessed doorway detail. Nail the trim pieces in place.
For a little extra country charm, tack a couple of metal stars or similar found objects to the ends. In this case, I left the painted white board exposed, and added a blue and a red star to each end for a patriotic theme.
Rustic Nest Box Diagram - Front View
Rustic Nest Box Diagram - Side View
More Ideas For Rustic Birdhouse Designs
Build This Little Hanging Birdhouse from Salvaged Wood
An exterior cedar trim board was rescued from a remodeling job and provided enough wood for the birdhouse, and the roof slats were cut from a lightweight shipping pallet.
Finding reclaimed wood is relatively easy but it can take some time and effort to convert an old board into useable lumber. The old wood must be cleaned, metal screws and nails removed, and any split or damaged sections cut away.
Building this hanging wooden birdhouse requires only basic woodworking skills and hand tools, and re-using old wood helps to reduce the expense and keeps useable lumber out of the landfill.
The Cutting List:
Cut the wood into the following dimensions. The cedar board used to build this birdhouse was 1" thick (known as a 5/4 thickness). If using a ¾" thick stock, increase the width of the side pieces to 4 ¾" wide.
- Front -- 5 ½" L x 5 ½" W
- Back -- 5 ½" L x 5 ½" W
- Sides -- 4 ½" W x 5 ½" L (Qty of 4 needed)
- Roof Sections: 8 Â½" L x 3/8" Thick (widths vary from 1 ½" to 4" W and cut to fit)
- Entrance guard: 3" L x 3" W (1 Â½" diameter entrance hole)
Assemble the Birdhouse
Position the sides together to form a square as shown in the diagram. Nail or screws the side pieces together.
Center and drill a 1 ½" hole through the front section and the entrance guard. Position the front section in place, and attach to the sides with nails or screws. Attach the entrance guard on a bias to form a diamond shape. Then attach the back section of the wooden birdhouse.
Lay out the first layer of roof slats, starting at the peak of the birdhouse roof and then working down towards the side. The roof slats should overhang the side by about ½". Depending on the width of the slats, it may be necessary to cut the width of a slat to fit properly. Nail the slats into place.
Repeat the lay out of the slats on the second side, overlapping the edge of the top slat on the first side as shown in the birdhouse diagram.
Lay out the second layer of roofing slats, using care to overlap any joints on the lower level. Repeat with the third layer, again using care to overlap and joints in the layer below.
Hang the finished wooden birdhouse using two galvanized eye bolts, screwed into the roof peak approximately 1 1/2" from each end. Use a short section of reclaimed and stripped copper electrical wire to hang the birdhouse from a tree or pole.
Hanging Wooden Birdhouse Diagram
Birdhouses made from Old Wood - by Bob Hunt
Books and Ideas for Building Birdhouses
This Old Pallet
The ubiquitous pallet is a good source of materials that is often suitable for making into a DIY projects, but be selective in choosing a pallet to reclaim. Pallets are filled with nails that are difficult to remove and it often takes considerable effort to disassemble a pallet so don't waste your time with stained, dirty or broken pieces.
Look for pallets from companies with shipments from other countries - pallets are made from local lumber, and wood that might be common in one country can be desirable in another.
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Build A Butterfly House
A Butterfly House made from an Old Pallet
This simple butterfly house was made from pieces of mahogany that I salvaged from a shipping pallet. The reddish wood was left unfinished to weather naturally and turn to a warm silvery gray
Cut the board to the following dimensions:
- Front: 22" long x 5" wide
- Back: 22" long x 5" wide
- Sides: 19" long x 3 ½" wide (quantity of two pieces needed)
- Roof: 4" x 5 ½" (quantity of two pieces needed)
- Bottom: 3 ½" x 3 ½"
- Mounting block: 6" x 3" x 1 ½"
Mark the center of the front and back pieces, and then lay out the 30 degree angles to form the peaks at the top. Cut along the marks to form the peaks.
Lay out the entrance slots. The butterfly boxes in the diagram have six slots which are 5" long by 3/8" wide. Using a 3/8" drill bit, drill a hole at each end of the slot. Then use a jig saw to cut out the rest of the slot.
Cut the top sections with a 30 degree angle on one of the long sides as shown in the diagram. The 30 degree cuts on the top sections match up with the 30 degree cuts on the front and back sections, and fit together to form the peaked roof.
Begin the assembly by attaching the front to one of the side pieces with exterior screws or nails. Align the bottom edges of both pieces before securing them together.
Attach the bottom to the front and side assembly, and then attach the back section.
Line up the remaining side with the bottom of the front and back pieces. To create a hinged door, secure the side section to the front assembly with one nail or screw driven into edge approximately 1" down from the top. Then, finish the hinged side by driving one nail or screw one through the back to form a pivot point. Position the hinge nails or screws in the front and back sections directly across from each other, enabling the door to open easily (refer to the side view drawing).
Drill and countersink a screw hole along the center of the bottom edge. A single short screw will secure the door, yet allow easy access to the butterfly boxes for cleaning.
Position the roof sections by attaching the pieces to the front and back sections. Do not nail the roof pieces to the side section which forms the hinged door. The butterfly box is ready for the garden, or for a brightly colored paint job.
Mount the finished garden butterfly box to a post in the garden. To use a section of ¾" copper pipe as a post, attach a small piece wood (approximately 6" long x 3" wide x 1 ½" thick) to the inside of the butterfly house, securing it from the back with a couple of nails or screws. Drill a ¾" hole though the bottom and into the block, and then mount the butterfly box on to a section of copper pipe.