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Clutch Master Cylinder Removal Overhaul And Installation

Updated on May 6, 2013

Clutch Master Cylinder Removal Overhaul And Installation

The clutch master cylinder is located is under the bonnet and bolted to the firewall of the vehicle. Before doing any work on the master cylinder it is important that the necessary repair kit or a new master cylinder is available.

Making a comparison between the cost of the repair kit and the master cylinder may indicate whether the cylinder should be rebuilt or replaced with a new one. If a decision is made to rebuild the cylinder the bore should be inspected.

First disconnect the negative cable from the battery. If the stereo of your vehicle is equipped with an anti theft system, make sure the activation code is available. Go into the vehicle and locate the pushrod atop the clutch pedal and disconnect it.

A clevis pin I use to secure the pushrod to the clutch pedal and it is held in place by a clip. So the clip will have to be removed before the clevis pin can be removed. Proceed by disconnecting the hydraulic lines at the clutch master cylinder.

I good practice is to use a flare nut wrench to disconnect the hydraulic line at the master cylinder so that the no damage is done to the fitting. Protect the paint by using rags as brake fluid will spill when the line is open. Remove the nuts securing the master cylinder to the firewall then remove the master cylinder.


Drain all fluid from the master cylinder by removing the cap from the reservoir. Remove the pin which is use to secure the reservoir to the cylinder then carefully pry off the reservoir. Now remove the dust cap, depress the pushrod and remove the snap ring with a pair of snap ring pliers. Pull out the pushrod and washer.

The master cylinder should now be tapped on a piece of wood to eject the piston assembly from inside the cylinder. Separate the spring from the piston and carefully remove all seals from the piston.

The bore of the master cylinder should now be inspected for deep scratches, ridges or score marks. The surface must be smooth to the touch. If any abnormal sign of wear is present the master cylinder should be replaced with a new or rebuilt one.

If the cylinder is going to be rebuilt, then use the rebuild kit and follow any special instruction available in the box. All parts that will be reuse should be wash with brake cleaner, denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid. No petroleum base fluid should be used.

Attach the seal to the piston with the seal lips facing away from the pushrod end of the piston. Assemble the spring to the other end of the piston. The seal and cylinder bore should be lubricated with clean brake fluid.

The piston should now be carefully guided into the bore being careful not to damage the seal. The spring end should be inserted first with the pushrod end of the piston closest to the opening of the cylinder.

Now depress the piston assembly, install pushrod and washer followed by the snap ring then the new dust boot. The reservoir should be installed along with a new grommet, drive in the spring pin with a small hammer and punch.


Place a new gasket unto the cylinder and position the master to the firewall and install the nuts finger tight. Connect the hydraulic line to the master cylinder and if necessary move the cylinder slightly to make threading the fitting properly into the bore. Be mindful not to cross thread the fitting.

The mounting nuts can now be tightened along with the hydraulic fitting. Reconnect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and refill the master cylinder reservoir with clean brake fluid of the specified type then bleed the air out of the system. Now check the clutch pedal height and free play.


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