ArtsAutosBooksBusinessEducationEntertainmentFamilyFashionFoodGamesGenderHealthHolidaysHomeHubPagesPersonal FinancePetsPoliticsReligionSportsTechnologyTravel

How To Rebuild A Turbo MHI TD05h big 16g Turbo Inspection & Standard Rebuild

Updated on June 29, 2013

16g Rebuild Guide!!! Rebuild Your TD05 16g Turbo Yourself

Are you one of those people that just enjoy learning, or someone that wants to save a few dollars and still learn along the way? Do you have a TD05H MHI 16g that needs inspected or rebuilt? Are you unsure sure how to go about doing this yourself? Are you just totally lost about what to do? Then you have come to the right place!!!

If you are someone that cannot justify spending over $1000 for a new turbo, just like the one in front of you, then please continue to read. I am going to explain how you can rebuild one of these turbos for a fraction of the cost to buy one new. I will cover all of the parts included in a full TD05H MHI 16g turbo.

***Note: I will be explaining this process in detailed pictures, with the intentions of using a new turbine shaft/wheel and compressor wheel.***

Ok, now take deep breath and exhale slowly, this is very easy if you take your time!!!

Tool Required!!!
Tool Required!!!

Tools Required!!!

The following tools are required for disassembly and reassembly of the TD05H MHI Big 16g:

Needle nose pliers

3/8 Ratchet

10mm socket (I prefer tall sockets)

12mm socket (I prefer tall sockets)

1/2in socket (I prefer tall sockets) **optional, depends on actuator bolts**

10mm wranch

12mm wrench

Small flat-head screwdriver

Scribe tools (great for tiny areas)

Rubber mallet

Engine assembly lube (for reassembly only)

Thread lock (for compressor wheel nut)

Caliper (optional) **great tool for measuring wheels**

In my opinion, the tools listed are the easiest tools to use for this job. You will not need any other tools. You may need a couple rags handy though.

Disassembly!!! - Picture Descriptions; In Order!!!

Click thumbnail to view full-size
1- Remove the wastgate actuator bolts from the compressor housing and actuator from from the turbine housing.2- Remove the v-band nut & bolt and remove the v-band clamp. Separate the turbine housing from the center section.3- Remove the large snap ring that holds the compressor housing to the center section. Remove the compressor housing.4- Now you will have something similar to this in front of you. Remove the o-ring around the compressor seal of the center section. (Orange o-ring in picture)  Grab your 10mm socket for the shaft nut on the compressor side and your 12mm wrench for th5- Now remove the snap ring that holds the insert in place. Whatch your eyes.6- Pry up on the insert as shown in the picture. Pry all the way around and it will release from the o-ring that holds it in place.7- Pay attention to how the insert comes out. Notice the oil deflector flange is in the gap inside the center section.8- Remove the o-ring that seals the insert in place. Then remove the thrust bearing (gold plate) and the thrust ring underneath it.9- Last but not least, remove the journal bearing as shown in the picture. You have now completed the disassembly!!!
1- Remove the wastgate actuator bolts from the compressor housing and actuator from from the turbine housing.
1- Remove the wastgate actuator bolts from the compressor housing and actuator from from the turbine housing.
2- Remove the v-band nut & bolt and remove the v-band clamp. Separate the turbine housing from the center section.
2- Remove the v-band nut & bolt and remove the v-band clamp. Separate the turbine housing from the center section.
3- Remove the large snap ring that holds the compressor housing to the center section. Remove the compressor housing.
3- Remove the large snap ring that holds the compressor housing to the center section. Remove the compressor housing.
4- Now you will have something similar to this in front of you. Remove the o-ring around the compressor seal of the center section. (Orange o-ring in picture)  Grab your 10mm socket for the shaft nut on the compressor side and your 12mm wrench for th
4- Now you will have something similar to this in front of you. Remove the o-ring around the compressor seal of the center section. (Orange o-ring in picture) Grab your 10mm socket for the shaft nut on the compressor side and your 12mm wrench for th
5- Now remove the snap ring that holds the insert in place. Whatch your eyes.
5- Now remove the snap ring that holds the insert in place. Whatch your eyes.
6- Pry up on the insert as shown in the picture. Pry all the way around and it will release from the o-ring that holds it in place.
6- Pry up on the insert as shown in the picture. Pry all the way around and it will release from the o-ring that holds it in place.
7- Pay attention to how the insert comes out. Notice the oil deflector flange is in the gap inside the center section.
7- Pay attention to how the insert comes out. Notice the oil deflector flange is in the gap inside the center section.
8- Remove the o-ring that seals the insert in place. Then remove the thrust bearing (gold plate) and the thrust ring underneath it.
8- Remove the o-ring that seals the insert in place. Then remove the thrust bearing (gold plate) and the thrust ring underneath it.
9- Last but not least, remove the journal bearing as shown in the picture. You have now completed the disassembly!!!
9- Last but not least, remove the journal bearing as shown in the picture. You have now completed the disassembly!!!

Inspection!!! - Why You Should Do It!!!

The number one reason for doing an inspection after disassembling a turbo is to try to figure out why it has problems or has failed all together. Inspecting the turbo parts can aslo tell a person what may be going on inside the motor of their vehicle. Take two of the same turbos. One turbo could live for 100,000 miles plus but the same turbo on a different vehicle may only live for 5 minutes. This is because of many factors. I am not going to get into full detail about how the turbo is linked to the motor right now but instead, I will show you a few causes of turbo failure.

Problem and Failure Causes!!! - Detailed Pictures Provide Information!!!

Click thumbnail to view full-size
16- Good example of an over cooked turbine housing. This is what usually happens to all of them over time. This particular housing has a crack that starts at the flange and travels through the wastegate port and down even further in the housing. Very17- Here is the same turbine housing but a view from the wastegate port. The cracking is horrible. No good.15- Here's an example of what happens when something get lodged under the compressor wheel. Notice the deep grooves where the wheel sits.14- Someone drove this turbo in to the ground. The lip on the turbine side of the chra is flared so much from running this turbo with excessive shaft play that it actually broke. The turbine shaft seal is supposed to seal in there and there is no way12- Three compressor wheels that are damaged from sucking up objects in the wheels, or making contact with the compressor housing. The one on the far left is also covered in oil from not properly venting the valve cover, blow-by oil.11- This compressor wheel made contact with the compressor housing from blown seals and worn out bearing.13- The two compressor wheels on the right are fairly normal. The two on the left have been cooked and leaked oil from seals.10- The turbine seal was leaking and the journal bearing is stuck on the shaft. Major oil buildup on the shaft.18- Example of a thrust ring being cooked and cracking. This will cause major problems for sure. I don't see this very often though.Notice the little shaving of metal stuck in the oil galley. That is not good at all. Could be caused from the turbo or could be from the engine. Either way, it's not good and will cause premature turbo failure.
16- Good example of an over cooked turbine housing. This is what usually happens to all of them over time. This particular housing has a crack that starts at the flange and travels through the wastegate port and down even further in the housing. Very
16- Good example of an over cooked turbine housing. This is what usually happens to all of them over time. This particular housing has a crack that starts at the flange and travels through the wastegate port and down even further in the housing. Very
17- Here is the same turbine housing but a view from the wastegate port. The cracking is horrible. No good.
17- Here is the same turbine housing but a view from the wastegate port. The cracking is horrible. No good.
15- Here's an example of what happens when something get lodged under the compressor wheel. Notice the deep grooves where the wheel sits.
15- Here's an example of what happens when something get lodged under the compressor wheel. Notice the deep grooves where the wheel sits.
14- Someone drove this turbo in to the ground. The lip on the turbine side of the chra is flared so much from running this turbo with excessive shaft play that it actually broke. The turbine shaft seal is supposed to seal in there and there is no way
14- Someone drove this turbo in to the ground. The lip on the turbine side of the chra is flared so much from running this turbo with excessive shaft play that it actually broke. The turbine shaft seal is supposed to seal in there and there is no way
12- Three compressor wheels that are damaged from sucking up objects in the wheels, or making contact with the compressor housing. The one on the far left is also covered in oil from not properly venting the valve cover, blow-by oil.
12- Three compressor wheels that are damaged from sucking up objects in the wheels, or making contact with the compressor housing. The one on the far left is also covered in oil from not properly venting the valve cover, blow-by oil.
11- This compressor wheel made contact with the compressor housing from blown seals and worn out bearing.
11- This compressor wheel made contact with the compressor housing from blown seals and worn out bearing.
13- The two compressor wheels on the right are fairly normal. The two on the left have been cooked and leaked oil from seals.
13- The two compressor wheels on the right are fairly normal. The two on the left have been cooked and leaked oil from seals.
10- The turbine seal was leaking and the journal bearing is stuck on the shaft. Major oil buildup on the shaft.
10- The turbine seal was leaking and the journal bearing is stuck on the shaft. Major oil buildup on the shaft.
18- Example of a thrust ring being cooked and cracking. This will cause major problems for sure. I don't see this very often though.
18- Example of a thrust ring being cooked and cracking. This will cause major problems for sure. I don't see this very often though.
Notice the little shaving of metal stuck in the oil galley. That is not good at all. Could be caused from the turbo or could be from the engine. Either way, it's not good and will cause premature turbo failure.
Notice the little shaving of metal stuck in the oil galley. That is not good at all. Could be caused from the turbo or could be from the engine. Either way, it's not good and will cause premature turbo failure.

Cleaning!!! - Clean Very Well!!!

The cleaning process is just as important as the assembly process. If the turbo and parts are not clean, then it is likely that you will have premature turbo failure. I highly suggest fully degreasing very well until all of the grit and grime is gone. You will have stains of course but as long as the turbo is free of oils and dirt before you start the assembly process, then you should be golden.

There are many ways to clean your turbo parts and media blasting seems to be the most popular but not everyone can do that at home. You can use your basic engine degreaser, elbow grease, wire brushes, scribe tools, and some brake/carb/throttle body fluid. Take your time and try to enjoy the last step before assembly. And look at it this way. You're saving quite a bit of money and learning at the same time by doing this yourself.

After you're done cleaning, you will end up with something like the picture. Notice that I have already put the big (orange) o-ring around the center section on the compressor side.

Rebuild Kit!!! - What Should Be Included!!!

This is a common rebuild kit for the TD05H Big 16g, it consist of the following parts:

1- O-ring insert

2- Thrust Bearing

3- Piston/Shaft Ring Seal

4- Snap Ring

5- 2x-Journal Bearing

6- 2x-Shaft Nuts (one for each direction)

7- Vband Bolt & Nut

8- Compressor Side Piston Ring

9- Flinger

10- Thrust Ring

11- Oil deflector

12- Superback Insert

13- Top Hat

14- Compressor Housing O-ring

15- Oil Return Gasket

16- TD05H Turbine Shaft/Wheel

Item #16 is not in the picture because it does not come with the rebuild kit. I included it because I always suggest replacing the old turbine shaft with a new one when doing a complete rebuild.

I also did not include a compressor wheel in the items because there are many different styles to chose from but I will explain how to do this rebuild with a big 16g compressor wheel.

Assembly!!! - Take Your Time!!!

Click thumbnail to view full-size
20- Wrap the large o-ring around the chra compressor side as shown in the picture (orange o-ring)21- Grab the #3 shaft ring, lube it up and slide it down over the shaft in to the second groove closest to the wheel. Grab one of the #5 journal bearing, lube it up and slide it down over the shaft.22- Make sure the groove that I'm pointing at in the picture is clean. That is where the shaft seal will seal. Grab your #13 top hat and place it on the turbine side of the chra. Now feed the shaft through the turbine side until the bearing goes in t23- Now you have something similar to this but with a shaft pointing up at you of course. Grab the other #5 journal bearing, lube it up and slide it down over the shaft until it slides in place and sits flush in the journal hole. Now grab the #10 thr24- Grab the #9 flinger and feed it through the #11 oil deflector from the bottom. Grab the #8 compressor piston ring, lube it up and place it in the top groove of the flinger. Now grab the #superback insert and press the flinger in to the insert fro25- Just some more pictures of the oil deflector, superback insert, flinger, and compressor piston ring.26- Here you will want to insert the o-ring that seals the superback insert in place. Now you can press the insert in to place. Be sure the flange is inside the gap of the chra or the insert will not go in. Press firmly so it seals.27- Now insert the snap ring back in to the groove to old the insert in place. All that’s left now is the compressor wheel of your choice and the shaft nut.28- Grab your compressor wheel and slide it down over the shaft until it sits in place. Grab some thread-locker and apply it to the shaft threads. Grab the correct shaft nut and hand tighten it. Grab the 10mm socket for the shaft nu and the 12mm wren29- Grab the compressor housing and notice the little pin on the edge. That pin needs to line up with the notch missing on the compressor side of the chra (notice the notch in the next picture.30- Notice the notch missing in the picture. That is where you line up the guide pin on the compressor housing.31- Grab the large snap ring that holds the compressor housing to the chra. Make sure the compressor housing is pressed all the way on or the snap ring will not fit in to its groove. Once you have the snap ring in place you can work on the turbine si32- Notice the guide pin on the turbine housing. It will go in the little hole on the turbine side of the chra (notice the hole in the next picture).33- Notice the hole in the turbine side of the chra. That s where the guide pin needs to go.34-Once you have the turbine housing in place, grab the v-band clamp and the #7 v-band bolt & nut and apply them in place. Tighten the v-band pretty good, you don’t want any air leaks.35- Last but not least, grab the wastegate actuator and the two bolts that hold it to compressor housing and reinstall. Then reattach the actuator arm to the turbine housing. Congratulations, you are done!!! You have successfully finished your rebuil
20- Wrap the large o-ring around the chra compressor side as shown in the picture (orange o-ring)
20- Wrap the large o-ring around the chra compressor side as shown in the picture (orange o-ring)
21- Grab the #3 shaft ring, lube it up and slide it down over the shaft in to the second groove closest to the wheel. Grab one of the #5 journal bearing, lube it up and slide it down over the shaft.
21- Grab the #3 shaft ring, lube it up and slide it down over the shaft in to the second groove closest to the wheel. Grab one of the #5 journal bearing, lube it up and slide it down over the shaft.
22- Make sure the groove that I'm pointing at in the picture is clean. That is where the shaft seal will seal. Grab your #13 top hat and place it on the turbine side of the chra. Now feed the shaft through the turbine side until the bearing goes in t
22- Make sure the groove that I'm pointing at in the picture is clean. That is where the shaft seal will seal. Grab your #13 top hat and place it on the turbine side of the chra. Now feed the shaft through the turbine side until the bearing goes in t
23- Now you have something similar to this but with a shaft pointing up at you of course. Grab the other #5 journal bearing, lube it up and slide it down over the shaft until it slides in place and sits flush in the journal hole. Now grab the #10 thr
23- Now you have something similar to this but with a shaft pointing up at you of course. Grab the other #5 journal bearing, lube it up and slide it down over the shaft until it slides in place and sits flush in the journal hole. Now grab the #10 thr
24- Grab the #9 flinger and feed it through the #11 oil deflector from the bottom. Grab the #8 compressor piston ring, lube it up and place it in the top groove of the flinger. Now grab the #superback insert and press the flinger in to the insert fro
24- Grab the #9 flinger and feed it through the #11 oil deflector from the bottom. Grab the #8 compressor piston ring, lube it up and place it in the top groove of the flinger. Now grab the #superback insert and press the flinger in to the insert fro
25- Just some more pictures of the oil deflector, superback insert, flinger, and compressor piston ring.
25- Just some more pictures of the oil deflector, superback insert, flinger, and compressor piston ring.
26- Here you will want to insert the o-ring that seals the superback insert in place. Now you can press the insert in to place. Be sure the flange is inside the gap of the chra or the insert will not go in. Press firmly so it seals.
26- Here you will want to insert the o-ring that seals the superback insert in place. Now you can press the insert in to place. Be sure the flange is inside the gap of the chra or the insert will not go in. Press firmly so it seals.
27- Now insert the snap ring back in to the groove to old the insert in place. All that’s left now is the compressor wheel of your choice and the shaft nut.
27- Now insert the snap ring back in to the groove to old the insert in place. All that’s left now is the compressor wheel of your choice and the shaft nut.
28- Grab your compressor wheel and slide it down over the shaft until it sits in place. Grab some thread-locker and apply it to the shaft threads. Grab the correct shaft nut and hand tighten it. Grab the 10mm socket for the shaft nu and the 12mm wren
28- Grab your compressor wheel and slide it down over the shaft until it sits in place. Grab some thread-locker and apply it to the shaft threads. Grab the correct shaft nut and hand tighten it. Grab the 10mm socket for the shaft nu and the 12mm wren
29- Grab the compressor housing and notice the little pin on the edge. That pin needs to line up with the notch missing on the compressor side of the chra (notice the notch in the next picture.
29- Grab the compressor housing and notice the little pin on the edge. That pin needs to line up with the notch missing on the compressor side of the chra (notice the notch in the next picture.
30- Notice the notch missing in the picture. That is where you line up the guide pin on the compressor housing.
30- Notice the notch missing in the picture. That is where you line up the guide pin on the compressor housing.
31- Grab the large snap ring that holds the compressor housing to the chra. Make sure the compressor housing is pressed all the way on or the snap ring will not fit in to its groove. Once you have the snap ring in place you can work on the turbine si
31- Grab the large snap ring that holds the compressor housing to the chra. Make sure the compressor housing is pressed all the way on or the snap ring will not fit in to its groove. Once you have the snap ring in place you can work on the turbine si
32- Notice the guide pin on the turbine housing. It will go in the little hole on the turbine side of the chra (notice the hole in the next picture).
32- Notice the guide pin on the turbine housing. It will go in the little hole on the turbine side of the chra (notice the hole in the next picture).
33- Notice the hole in the turbine side of the chra. That s where the guide pin needs to go.
33- Notice the hole in the turbine side of the chra. That s where the guide pin needs to go.
34-Once you have the turbine housing in place, grab the v-band clamp and the #7 v-band bolt & nut and apply them in place. Tighten the v-band pretty good, you don’t want any air leaks.
34-Once you have the turbine housing in place, grab the v-band clamp and the #7 v-band bolt & nut and apply them in place. Tighten the v-band pretty good, you don’t want any air leaks.
35- Last but not least, grab the wastegate actuator and the two bolts that hold it to compressor housing and reinstall. Then reattach the actuator arm to the turbine housing. Congratulations, you are done!!! You have successfully finished your rebuil
35- Last but not least, grab the wastegate actuator and the two bolts that hold it to compressor housing and reinstall. Then reattach the actuator arm to the turbine housing. Congratulations, you are done!!! You have successfully finished your rebuil

Rebuilt and Upgraded Products!!! - Eye Candy and 20g Upgrades I've Done!!!

Click thumbnail to view full-size

Products Tried and Proven!!!

These are just a few products I have tried and work well. I also added a couple extra listing for upgrade choices from the 16g to the 20g.

Usefull Products For The MHI 16g Turbo!!!

My Guestbook!!! - Let Me Know If the Information Provided Was Usefull!!!

    0 of 8192 characters used
    Post Comment

    • profile image

      evo3 2 years ago

      Helo jongraak..i have one question. .after i rebuilt my td05h 16g complete installation with my car..and i try to running my car not boosting just drive slowly...then i park my car and i try check my compressor housing still have leaking of oil..can you give some advice..

    • profile image

      mpgstore 3 years ago

      Could you tell me Big or small TD05 16G with same size journal bearing? It is useful poster.

    • jongraack profile image
      Author

      jongraack 4 years ago

      For anyone that finds this writeup helpful, please leave a comment about it...Thanks!!!

    • jongraack profile image
      Author

      jongraack 4 years ago

      @AustinCole LM: All set and thanks for that.

    • AustinCole LM profile image

      AustinCole LM 4 years ago

      You should put a link to your website for backlink purposes. Your ranked really high which surprises me. you could probably get even high ranking with social bookmarking.

    • AustinCole LM profile image

      AustinCole LM 4 years ago

      You should put turbolabofamerica.com in your links. also add as many tags as possible and go around liking and sharing pages in the same niche.

    • jongraack profile image
      Author

      jongraack 4 years ago

      @AustinCole LM: Thanks Austin. Put a lot of time in to this writeup. Hope it helps some people out!!!

    • AustinCole LM profile image

      AustinCole LM 4 years ago

      Nice write up.