Cotton: Manufacturing Process, and How to Maintain Cotton Textiles During Washing and Storage
The cotton is one of the most important fibrous plants in the world, which belongs to the Gossypium. Cotton is a small shrub, with large yellow flowers; its seeds are covered with white fluff of Cellulose from which the fiber is obtained.
Cotton is cultivated in hot areas, as it does not tolerate cold or frost, and requires special care, because it needs fertile soil and lots of water for irrigation.
Cotton fibers are often blended with other fibers such as wool, linen, nylon, and polyester to achieve the best properties of each fiber.
Egyptian cotton is considered to be the finest type of cotton. Cultivation of cotton flourished in Egypt until1995, thus producing it and of course exporting. By the beginning of 2000, the area of cotton-grown land had decreased and it remained until 2016. In 2017 the Egyptian government announced its revival of Egyptian Cotton, its support for cotton farmers and the doubling of cotton fields, which the Egyptians called the white gold.
China, India, the United States, Pakistan, Brazil, and Egypt are among the largest cotton producers in the world. The United States of America is the largest exporter of cotton in the world along with Australia.
Types of Cotton
1- Gossypium Barbadense
It is long-staple cotton and is the most important type of cotton. This type of cotton has a bush length of about 8 feet and has a straight and smooth stem, the leaves are wide, the flowers are yellow with crimson bases and black seeds. This cotton is grown in Egypt.
2- Gossypium Hirsutum
Gossypium hirsutum or Mexican cotton is the most widely cultivated cotton in the world. Globally, about 90% of total cotton production is derived from this type. Its habitat is Mexico and the West Indies.
3- Gossypium Herbaceum
It is cultivated in Central and South America. It is about 15 feet tall, has strong large leaves, a yellow flower, and gray fuzz.
4- Gossypium Arboreum
This type of cotton is considered a short-staple and it is grown in India and China. It is about 12 feet tall, has long thin branches, soft leaves, and large flowers.
Brief History of Cotton
More than 5,000 years ago, cotton fabrics were found next to the stuffed bodies in the ancient Peruvian civilization. It was also said that the original habitat for cotton cultivation was India, where Indian cotton fibers were used in ancient times and cotton in India was known as the Calico, relative to Calicut city in India.
The cotton industry began in Europe in 1635, and they imported cotton from the Levant and India.
At the end of the eighteenth century, cotton cultivation began in America while the cultivation of long-staple cotton began in Egypt at the beginning of the nineteenth century.
In 1793, a cotton gin was developed by Eli Whitney, which was able to provide an easier, faster and more economical way to separate the cotton seeds from the fibers.
Since the early 1990s, global cotton production has declined due to the proliferation of synthetic fibers.
An Old Cotton Gin Machine
Chemical Structure of Cotton Fiber
A cotton fibre resembles a twisted ribbon. These twists are called convolutions. There are about 60 convolutions per centimetre. The convolutions give cotton an uneven fibrous surface, which increases inter-fibre friction and enables soft cotton yarns to be spun.
The outer layer, the cuticle, is a thin film that mostly consists of fat and wax. The waxy layer forms a thin sheet above the primary wall that forms grooves on the surface of the cotton.
The main wall comprises of non-cellulosic and amorphous cellulose materials where the fibres are arranged in a cross pattern. Due to the unorganized orientation of cellulosic and non-cellulose materials, the surface of the primary wall is disorganized and open. This gives flexibility to the main wall, which is required during cell growth.
The primary components in the primary wall are cellulose, hemicelluloses, pectin, proteins and ions. The secondary wall, in which only crystalline cellulose exists, is highly arranged and has a structure combined with the cellulose fibrous parallel to each other.
The Stages of Cotton Production
Manufacturing Process of Cotton
Cultivation of Cotton
Preparation of soil: Most of the agriculture takes place in the spring. Soil preparation is done by removing the residues of the previous crop cultivated in the soil. This is done by cutting the stems and flipping them into the soil or leaving them on the soil surface to protect it from erosion. The soil is sown in the spring with specific machines, some of which make lines for seeds to be placed in, while others plant seeds on the flat ground because cotton cultivation requires soil with high fertility, so the farmer adds very large quantities of fertilizer under the seeds, or near them, the addition of pesticides may be done at the time of preparing the soil, or the time of cultivation of cotton. Seeds are placed by machines in small pits, some 15 to 25 cm apart. Fertilizers are placed, the pits are covered, and the soil is pressed around seeds. When the farmer wants to increase the yield in the field, he increases two rows of seeds, the distance between them is 25 cm, while reducing the distance between the lines, or increasing the width of the lines, usually, the distance is 100 cm between the lines, and thus can grow about 75000 to 150000 plants per Hectare (1 Ha=10.000 m2).
The emergence of buds: After two months of cotton growing, the buds begin to appear, which begin to open three weeks later, turning from white to yellow, then brown, then eventually becoming dark red, and then they wither, fall, and leave behind the boll, which has the fibers that grow and expand by the heat of the sun, and in the end, the boll is divided into two parts, then the cotton fluff comes out.
Organic cotton is grown in subtropical countries such as Turkey, China and the United States of America without the use of any synthetic agricultural chemicals such as fertilizers and pesticides. Since 2007, 265,517 bales of organic cotton have been produced in 24 countries around the world and the production rate has grown by more than 50% annually. In the United States, the cultivation of such cotton must comply with the requirements of the National Organic Program of the US Department of Agriculture to be considered organic. This institution defines permissible practices in terms of pest control, agriculture, fertilization, and post-harvest operations.
Organic cotton farming does not provide cleaner and healthier products but will also benefit the environment by:
- Eliminate pollutants in water as well as conserve groundwater.
- Organically grown crops provide the soil with high organic content, which reduces soil erosion.
- conserve biodiversity.
Modern Cotton Gin
Cotton Ginning Process
After the cotton is harvested, it is pressed into bales and sent to the Cotton gin to separate the staple (white fiber) from the seed. In the ginning process, the cotton passes through a group of cylinders working with centrifugal force, some of which are used to dry cotton from moisture, others are used to clean cotton from dust and strange materials, and then the cotton is pressed into the bales to be transferred to spinning, weaving factories after that to dyeing and printing factories. The seeds are sent to the contemporary to extract oil from them.
In the spinning process, the spinning machines take cotton fibers from the silver and rotate it up to 2,500 revolutions in a second twist that makes fibers into yarn for weaving.
Mills draw and twist the roving into yarn and place it on bobbins. By the use of automatic winding, the yarn bobbins are transferred to larger bobbins called cheese cones.
Modern looms operate at very high speeds, interlacing the length-wise yarns and the crosswise yarns.
In preparation of warp yarns for weaving, hundreds of yarn threads are wound from cheese cones onto a large warp beam. Then yarns on this beam are coated with starch to add strength for weaving. On the other hand, starch is not placed on weft because flexibility is needed in the weaving process.
Currently, in modern mills, the weft is fed into the loom from cheese cones by air-jets at a high speed that its movement cannot be seen.
Then the woven fabric is sent to a finishing process where it is bleached, dyed, printed or given a special finish before being made into clothing or other home products.
Manufacturing Process of Cotton
Cotton fabrics are often used in making underwear, children's clothing, some socks, towels, bedding, sheets, blankets, bathrobes, bras, pajamas along with curtains.
Light cotton fabrics are used in the manufacture of blouses, shirts, t-shirts, and dresses. Thick cotton fabrics such as gabardine are used for making pants, and cotton linens.
Household Applications of Cotton
Advantages of Cotton Fabrics
- Cotton fabrics, especially organic cotton have no negative effects on the skin, flexible and soft.
- It has the ability to absorb sweat easily.
- Cotton textiles bear high temperatures, repeat ironing and washing, as well as the ability to multiple pigments.
Moldy Cotton Fabric
Disadvantages of Cotton Fabrics
- It has the ability to shrink.
- Cotton fabrics wrinkle quickly and therefore need permanent ironing. The wrinkle in the cotton clothes is due to the crack of cellulose chains forming cotton fiber after washing, which is quickly re-upright by heat.
- With increasing humidity in the atmosphere, cotton fabrics become moldy due to the effect of bacteria and fungi on them, giving the fabrics a mold odor and some stains. Therefore, when storing cotton fabrics, use mold-resistant materials or products and not store them in wet, dark places.
Mold is an antiseptic substance that is formed in moist and dark places and has a dark green color. Usually found behind curtains and under the beds and storage areas.
How to Maintain Cotton Fabrics
1- How to Keep Colored Cotton Clothing During Washing
Cotton clothing can be taken care during washing by the following steps:
- When washing colored cotton fabrics for the first time, it is preferred to soak in the washbasin for an hour to remove excess dye and also test if the dye fixed or not.
- When washing dark clothes for the first time should be soaked with warm water, and add a cup of vinegar and salt, and leave for four to five hours, as this works to fix the color of clothes and color change when washed.
- Separate the cotton clothes from other clothing, and sort the bright cotton clothes from the dark clothes so as not to dissolve colors and mingle with each other during washing.
- Remove spots on cotton clothing by using a stain remover, liquid detergent or gels, because, it is difficult to remove stains after washing and drying clothes.
- Turn the clothes to the interior to maintain consistency and brightness.
- Check the label on each piece of clothing and adjust the washing cycle at the lowest temperature suitable for washing colored cotton clothes. It is not preferred to use hot water so as not to resolve colors and dyes.
- pay attention to some clothes that do not suit the laundry dryer by inspecting the label on each piece. Some clothes need to dry with natural air by hanging them on the clothes hanger. When using the dryer, it is preferable not to prolong the drying time so as not to wrinkle the clothes severely.
White Cotton Fabrics
2- Tips for Washing White Clothes
- Separate white clothes for colored clothes.
- Wash white clothes, at high temperatures.
- It is possible to place half a cup of baking soda with whitewashing; it helps to preserve the pure white color, thus avoiding yellowing of white cloth.
- Wash yellow places resulting from sweating at the area of the armpits, with normal soap, before being placed in the washing machine.
- Soak the white clothes with hard spots with lukewarm water with a little washing powder and gel, for at least 3 hours.
- If spots are mixed on white clothes, you can soak them in chlorine water for only an hour, before putting them in the washing machine.
- To remove the frankincense, put on the white clothes cubes of ice, and then remove it with a sharp knife.
- Finally, it is preferred to hang white clothing in the sun.
3- For Cotton Curtains Cleaning
- It is recommended to remove dust from the colored cotton curtains before washing, use only cold water for washing and rinsing. You can add several drops of lemon juice to the last rinse water because it gives the curtain a cleaner and a greater shine. When you finish washing, do not spin it and just press it with your hands. After spreading, do not expose it to a long period of sunlight so as not to affect the colors.
- It is better to clean the cotton curtains while hanging. As much as possible, remove the dust from curtains daily, so that you can keep them clean for a long time and do not have to disassemble and install them many times.
- The dust can be removed by cleaning the weekly vacuum cleaner from top to bottom.
- The steam machine can also be used to clean curtains made of heavy fabrics or curtains that are difficult to disassemble. It is the most suitable for this type of curtain.
- Remove any stains from the cotton curtains with a wet sponge with warm water and suitable washing powder and then wash it with another sponge moistened with water only.
Cedar Storage Bag
4- Tips to Prevent the Mold
- Good ventilation in the house.
- Dry fabrics well before storing them.
- Adjust the heating devices or air conditioners to keep the place dry and free of moisture.
- It is possible to store clothing or fabrics in cedarwood bags, it helps to protect them from the proliferation of insects and prevent the arrival of moisture to it.
Cedar wood comes from the Cedrela Odorata trees. It is an aromatic, insect-resistant wood, light, and is mainly used to keep clothes from insects as well as moisture.
© 2018 Eman Abdallah Kamel