I've always enjoyed eating tofu whether prepared in my own kitchen or in a restaurant. I have found that it doesn't matter whether the restaurant is upscale or not -- the taste, texture and palitability of the food is strictly based on the skill of the chef. I have tasted some of the best dishes (with and without tofu) in restaurants that are "holes in the wall" that put the "known and famous" kitchens to shame.
To qualify your question with my humble opinions:: a "real chef" is a person who is an artist who uses food as the canvas and paints with the aromatic flavors and texturizes with the textures of the ingredients. Anyone can be a "real chef" if they are gifted with the ability to be creative in this sense.
An "upscale restaurant": an "upscale restaurant" is one that brands itself as being "unique" and caters to the rich, famous and wanna be's. This does not always reflect what is served. I have dined in "upscale restaurants" only to send the food back because it was improperly cooked, the taste was off or it was just not palitable.
Personally, the success of the dish relies on the skill of the chef and on your own tastes/dislikes and your own ability to keep an open mind when dining and trying out a new dish.