Kedgeree - from the Raj to the British menu

This lens gives you instructions for making kedgeree, one of my favourite fish dishes and tells some of the story of the dish. You will also find some suggestions for good fish recipe books to add to your cooking library.

You could describe this as a fish recipe, a rice recipe or even an egg recipe since it contains all of them.

Let's get something straight first. What you want for this dish is not the cheaper bright yellow type of smoked haddock. This type contains a food colouring which personally I don't want in my dish. Look for the labels 'undyed' , 'traditionally smoked' or 'naturally smoked' and a fish that is just a pale creamy colour. I do appreciate that depending where you live, you may not be able to get this kind. If you can't get smoked haddock which is really a North Sea European fish, you could try smoked cod or even kipper fillets if you don't mind a stronger smoked fish flavour.

I'm starting with the ingredients so you can make a shopping list if need be. This recipe says it will serve 4.

Last Edited: May 4th 2013 @ 14:10 BST

By - Jenny Fletcher

...or khichri if you will

During the days of the British Empire, many families who lived in India had local cooks who adapted recipes for the British palate. Kedgeree started off life as a dish of lentils or beans and rice called khichri or kitcheri and similar dishes exist all over the subcontinent with regional variations.

However there is a second source that involves TWO transitions, firstly a dish taken to India by Scottish troops in the 1700's that spread widely and was then re-adopted and Anglicized.

Whichever is correct, the Indian version with lentils became at some point the British version with smoked fish and has since travelled to other places with British AND Indian connections such as the Caribbean. I spent my honeymoon in Antigua and it was always a feature of the breakfast buffet in our hotel.

time to check your cupboards and make a shopping list

300ml milk

1 bay leaf

400g undyed smoked haddock

25g unsalted butter

2 tbsp oil

1 onion finely chopped

2 tsp curry powder

175g Basmati rice well rinsed and drained

100g frozen peas

4 eggs

1tbsp single (light) cream

A pinch of paprika (optional)

Chopped parsley

Chopped coriander (optional)

Every good cook (unless totally veggie) needs a book that explains how to prepare and cook fish. Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall (the Fishfight chef) goes further, discussing going out and catching it too and foraging on the beach for shellfish too.

Here is the Amazon UK link

Prep: 10 mins. Cook:30 mins

• Put the milk and an equal amount of water in a shallow pan and add the haddock and the bay leaf.

• Bring to the boil and simmer 1 min. Then turn off the heat and leave to cool a little in the liquid while you get on with other preparations.

• Heat the butter and oil, chop the onion very finely and add to the pan. Sweat very gently for about 10 minutes but do not allow the onion to brown - just gently golden is good. Now mix in the curry powder and the drained rice and stir around till the rice is coated with the butter and slightly coloured with the curry powder. Add a good soup-ladleful of the fish cooking liquid, stir and reduce the heat to a very gentle simmer. I use a heat diffuser at this point.

• Keep an eye on the pan and add more cooking liquid as it is absorbed. Keep on stirring from time to time and do not add too much liquid at a time. You are aiming to add just enough to be absorbed by the rice without becoming too wet. Add the peas when the rice is nearly cooked.

• Now you can lift the fish out of the liquid and leave to cool a little more. Skin and flake the fish and remove any remaining bones.

• Next, put the eggs onto boil. They want about 5 minutes so they are softly set, but not like bullets. Run under cold water so they do not form a grey layer between the yolk and the white. Shell them and leave in cold water till ready to use for garnish.

• When your rice mixture is cooked, you can stir in your cooked fish and the cream off the heat. Taste for seasoning. It shouldn't need salt, but you may like a little more pepper or you can add the paprika if liked. Remove to a serving dish or warmed plates and garnish with the finely chopped green herbs and quartered eggs.

If not eating for breakfast when a good cup of tea is the best accompaniment, you could choose a New Zealand Sauvignon white wine, or a white Rioja.

An easy kedgeree recipe

This works too and can be done in a few minutes for a quick fish and rice dish. It doesn't have quite the depth of flavour of the full version but is still a warming and tasty meal.

This is for just two people.

200g undyed smoked haddock

milk

1 sachet Tilda ready cooked microwave pilau rice - Uncle Bens also make one and supermarkets may have their own version. You could also use a tub of pilau rice from the Indian food section in your supermarket chill cabinet.

1/2 cup frozen peas

1 tsp curry powder

1 tablespoon cream

1/2 chopped onion

tablespoon butter

tablespoon oil

parsley and or fresh coriander if you have some

2 eggs

• Chop the onion very finely and fry very gently in the oil and butter mixture. Do not allow to brown. You want pale golden. Add the curry powder at the end and fry for another minute.

• Put your eggs onto boil and time them for 5 minutes. Put the fish in a shallow dish and pour on enough milk to just cover. Cling film and put in the microwave for 1 min 30 seconds. Set aside.

• Cook the rice in the microwave according to the instructions on the packet while the onion is frying and the fish is sitting. Tip into a serving bowl and fluff up. Cook the frozen peas for a couple of minutes in the microwave - look on the packet for time - and add to the rice.

• The eggs should now be done, so run them under cold water till cool enough to handle. Shell and quarter. Chop the parsley and/or coriander if you have it.

• Lift the the fish from its cooking liquid and put on a plate.Stir a tablespoon of the liquid into the hot rice. Skin and flake the fish removing any stray bones. Add the flaked fish to the rice with the onion and curry powder mix. Add the cream and stir it all together. Check the seasoning and add more if you want it.. If the rice has gone a bit cold, put it back in the microwave, covered, for a minute or two.

• Put onto warmed plates, and garnish with the hard boiled eggs and the herbs. Eat and enjoy.

Say 'fish cookery' to someone in the UK and they will probably think of Rick Stein. I have visited one of his restaurants in Padstow, Cornwall and it has to be said, it really was good. He has certainly raised the profile of fish cooking. Besides the main restaurant, there is a fish and chip cafe and a fresh fish shop and deli next door to the Lobster hatchery on the quayside which is worth a visit in itself.

I have included a number of books here from authors that I really respect as being authorities on fish cookery and preparation.

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