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************Help avoid the YLOD************ ***3 tips for a Cooler and Greener PS3***

Updated on June 27, 2013

Help prevent the YLOD before it has the chance to happen, and prolong the lifespan of your system.

There has been a lot of concern of late about the continued longevity of the original "fat" PS3 models, I thought it would be wise to take some preventative action to make sure my system can run as long as possible. I tested these 3 tips, with the expressed goal of getting the PS3 to run cooler and greener, which hopefully will result with giving better longevity.

You may be familiar with at least one of these tips, but perhaps not all three of them. If you do decide to implement all three of these tips that I present, you should be able to help maximize the lifespan of your PlayStation 3 game system.

ATTENTION!

If you already have the YLOD, these tips will not help.

For other options available to you, please skip down to the section: "What if I already have the YLOD?".

What is the YLOD?

The "Yellow Light of Death" (or YLOD for short) is a condition I found to be caused by a combination of the use of lead-free solder, poor quality thermal paste, and/or overheating.

If you get the YLOD, the PS3 becomes nonfunctional. If you happen to have a disc inside, it will probably be stuck there until you have the system fixed, or have it physically removed.

The YLOD is characterized when the PS3 beeping and flashing lights in this exact sequence: RED to GREEN (1.5 seconds) to YELLOW to BLINKING RED, when you try to turn it on.

This is illustrated in the video below:

What causes the YLOD?

So what causes the YLOD? There are several possible causes, including a faulty power supply and a corrupted hard drive. The most likely cause of this issue are the solder balls underneath the RSX (the GPU, or Graphics Processing Unit) and CELL (the CPU, or Central Processing Unit) chips. This style of fastening the chips to the board is know as BGA, or Ball Grid Array, which is composed of hundreds of tiny balls of solder, which pass information from the chip to the motherboard. These balls are constantly submitted to intense heat due to the chip above them, which is being cooled by a huge heatsink and fan.

The European Union banned the importation of electronics containing lead in 2006, called Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive (RoHS), which has caused most electronics manufactures to switch to lead free solder in their products, even those sold in the United States. Unfortunately lead free solder has two (theorized) weaknesses. The first is that with repeated, high temperature (higher than what Sony engineers intended) followed by cooling of the console once turned off, the balls begin to lose their elasticity, and eventually crack. This causes an open circuit, and when you try to power the PS3 up again, you get the YLOD. The other theory is that over time, due to the aforementioned high temperatures, the balls begin to grow "tin whiskers" which cause a short with another ball nearby, once again causing the YLOD.

Lead based solders have been in use for over 50 years, and manufacturers are highly familiar with their characteristics. Unfortunately this isn't true for lead-free solders. The PS3 has over a thousand solder connection points beneath its CPU & GPU, and if only one solder point were to crack or fracture, it would result in your PlayStation 3 getting the YLOD.

The PS3 is the first PlayStation system to require an elaborate cooling system, where it needs a heatsink, fan, and thermal paste to cool itself effectively. Unfortunately the thermal paste Sony choose to use when manufacturing the PS3 tends to dry out after a few years of regular use, which can cause the PS3 to overheat. When this happens, it can also cause the aforementioned lead-free solder to fracture, break, or melt; resulting in a YLOD issue.

Although it is rare, a YLOD issue could be caused by a faulty power supply. From what I understand, if you don't hear the system fan spin up when you first turn the PS3 on, then you may have a bad power supply. Also if you find that the green light stays on for less than half a second, that could also indicate a defective power supply. You can easily buy a replacement one from eBay or Amazon.

Most of the time it is the GPU (RSX) chip that gets fractured solder points that leads to the YLOD. The best reason I have heard this happens is that the CPU (CELL) chip has a hole cut underneath it on the motherboard allowing for heat to escape. It is also true that the CPU doesn't have any solder points located directly beneath the actual processor, that could fracture from heat generated by the processor. Both of these conditions isn't true for the GPU. You can see this in the picture below, where both chips have been removed from the board.

You can help protect yourself from the YLOD by enhancing the PS3's ability to cool itself, covered by applying these 3 tips. You can further protect yourself by having your PS3 repaired through "reballing" (where the lead-free solder is replaced by lead solder) under the PS3's GPU, where most YLOD issues typically occur. Since reballing can be an invasive and somewhat expensive repair, you should only have it performed if it is absolutely necessary.

These tips are primarily intended only for the following PS3 system models:

60GB (CECHA)

20GB (CECHB)

60GB (CECHC)

80GB (CECHE)

80GB (CECHE MG)

40GB (CECHG)

If you have a different PS3 model, please see the section "Tips for other PS3 models", toward the bottom of this page.

WARNING

You shouldn't attempt any of these tips if you are uncomfortable with opening up and servicing your own PS3, or if it is still under warranty.

If you are not comfortable doing this, see the section "Have these tips performed for you professionally", toward the bottom of this page.

For those that wish to familiarize themselves with opening up and disassembling their own PS3, you should carefully study the 8-part video series from Fixmyplaystation.com, posted directly below. You can also refer to an excellent illustrated guide by ifixit.com to assist you.

I strongly recommend you first view all these videos in their entirety, so you can familiarize yourself with exactly what you need to do, and what is involved before you start to proceed.

Before you open up your PS3, you need to make sure you are in an environment that doesn't generate static electricity. If you are not properly grounded, you could damage your PS3. You shouldn't work on your PS3 on a carpeted floor, but if you do be sure to wear shoes with thick rubber soles. Wearing an anti-static band when servicing your own PS3 is also a good idea.

NOTE

The following videos depict just the 80GB CECHE model, which is virtually the same inside as in the 60GB CECHA, 20GB CECHB, and the 60GB CECHC PS3.

The 40GB CECHG has a smaller motherboard inside, but is simular enough for you to follow along.

The following video is optional to watch, because I don't recommend either the thermal paste used or the application method depicted here. I am leaving this video basically for completeness of this video series. Please see Bonus Video #1 (directly below) for the recommended application method, and Tip #3 for the recommended thermal paste and pads.

Bonus Video #1

This bonus video is an updated method of the application of thermal paste, which I believe is more efficient and effective than the method shown in the video above. After viewing this video, please read Tip #3 below for additional information regarding the recommended thermal paste.

Bonus Video #2

This bonus video shows the clamp bending technique. This helps ensure a firm contact between the heatsinks and the CELL and RSX processors. Skip the video to the 7 minute (7:00) mark to see this demonstrated, as the fluxing portion isn't relevant to what we are doing.

Before you reassemble the PS3, make sure all of your thermal pads are in place. (See Tip #3)

Tip #1

Replace the PS3 Power Supply with a more Power Efficient version

The standard power supply that comes with the PS3 can run very hot and is a huge source of heat inside the PS3. In my opinion they run so hot it probably would have been wise that Sony made the power supply external, so that the PS3 could cool itself in a more efficient manner.

ZSSR5391A Power Supply
ZSSR5391A Power Supply

Inside the 60GB CECHA, 20GB CECHB, and the 80GB CECHE PS3 systems; it is possible you could have the ZSSR5391A power supply installed. (Picture shown on the right) You can easily identify this power supply from the others because of the large amount of ventallation holes it has all over it.

Of the possible power supplies available to these systems, the ZSSR5319A is the least power efficient during the AC to DC conversion process, and as a result generates a lot of heat. I found it to be extremely hot to the touch, as hot as an iron!

If you happen to find you have the ZSSR5391A power supply model in your PlayStation 3, I highly suggest you exchange it with a more power efficient version as soon as possible.

APS-226 Power Supply
APS-226 Power Supply

If you have one of these affected PS3s, you can substitute the ZSSR5391A power supply with the APS-226 model instead (picture shown on the right). You can identify the APS-226 power supply, because it can have square ventilation holes, although some variants of this power supply have round ventilation holes, but slightly less of them than the ZSSR5391A.

Owners of the 60GB CECHC PS3 model should already have the APS-227 power supply installed. There is no need to change this power supply since it is already fairly efficient. You may want to switch to the APS-226 if you plan to leave the country because it is universally rated, so it can be used anywhere around the world.

Do not use the APS-227 power supply if you live outside a PAL territory (Australia, New Zealand, UK, Ireland, Europe, Middle East, Africa ,Russia, India) as that power supply can only function in those specific regions.

The theory of using a more energy efficient power supply comes from the idea that less heat will result in less "flexing" of the PlayStation 3 motherboard. Flexing could potentially cause damage, and result in having a YLOD issue.

Check out the table below for more technical information regarding the PS3 power supplies:

All these power supplies provide far more power than the PS3 ever needs to function, so you shouldn't be any concern on your part that your console is being under supplied with power.

NOTE: I used to recommend the APS-231 power supply (found in the CECHG model) for the CECHA-CECHE models. While this power supply will work, and generates less heat, I recently found out that this power supply may eventually fail due to the added stress placed on it by the increased power demands of the older PS3 models. Because of this, and for better long-term reliability, I recommend just sticking with the APS-226 power supply. Because this power supply provides the exact same power output as the ZSSR5391A model, it really is the better match for a replacement power supply.

This is the easiest tip to implement, since you don't fully disassemble the PS3, like you need to with the other tips. APS-226 power supplies are available for sale on both eBay and Amazon.

Tip #2

Install the 19-blade PS3 Fan

PS3 15 Blade Fan
PS3 15 Blade Fan

There are two different fans that are compatible with these PS3 systems. First, there is the 15-blade fan.

PS3 19-bladed fan
PS3 19-bladed fan

And there is the 19-blade fan. Apparently PS3 made in Japan during the first few months of its initial release, had 19-blade fan installed standard. When Sony switched PS3 manufacturing over to China, they largely switched over the 15-blade one, although it is still possible to have a 19-blade fan.

It is generally believed that the 19-blade fan moves a larger volume of air per minute (150% more), and tends to be a bit quieter than the 15-blade version.

It has also been speculated that (unlike the 19-blade fan) the 15-blade fan tends to recirculate hot air inside the PlayStation 3, due to its inherent faulty design, shown in the illustration below.

PS3 Fan Flashlight Trick
PS3 Fan Flashlight Trick

While you probably need to replace your fan, you should verify that you need it first. Usually you need to nearly disassemble your entire PS3 to get a look at a the fan, but there is a trick to do it without opening up your PS3. What you need to do is to shine a very bright flashlight into the exhaust port on the back of the PS3, just above the serial number, in a dark room. Since the PS3 case is made of translucent plastic, you should be able to make out the silhouette of at least 1/4 of the blades on the PS3's fan (as shown in the picture on the right).

If you multiply the number by 4, you should be able to estimate how many blades you have. Keep in mind the 19-blade fan has straight fins, where the 15-blade's fins are slightly curved.

Alternatively you can shine a flashlight directly on the surface of the PS3, where that fan is located. Because the PS3 shell is made of translucent plastic, you should be able to see a small area directly inside the PS3, and be able to count the fan blades. I find this method works best with a small and bright LED flashlight, pressed directly on the surface of the PlayStation 3.

While the 19-bladed fan is quieter, it is only by a few decibels. Don't expect your PS3 to be whisper quiet, but you can be sure your PS3 is getting a better airflow than it was before.

Be advised, the following will always cause the PlayStation 3's fan to run at the higher speeds:

* Playing a Blu-Ray movie in high definition.

* Playing a PlayStation 3 game in high definition.

* Playing an upscaled DVD movie in high definition.

* Playing an upscaled PlayStation 2 game in high definition.

* Playing your PS3 in a warm (>70°F/21°C) and humid environment.

Replacing your fan with the 19-blade version will enhance the benefits of the next tip (#3) and should be done together, for a better overall result. Replacement original used PS3 fans can be easily purchased from places like eBay and Amazon. Or if you prefer to buy a brand new PS3 19-blade fan instead, a company called Talismoon may still have some available for sale.

Amazon: Tailsmoon Wisper fan

Tip #3

Replace the Original Thermal Paste and the Thermal Pads

Many people know about this one. With all the early talk of how reliable the PS3 is with estimated defect rates of less than 1%, and the PS3's ability to survive a grueling stress test. Apparently it turns out the PS3's Achilles heal is the thermal paste that Sony uses on the PS3. It is believed that the thermal grease tends to dry out after 2-3 years, and when it does the PS3 may have issues keeping itself cool during normal use. I have also noticed a pattern, where the latest victims of YLOD have nearly all had their systems for about 3 or more years. 

 

NOTE

One big sign that you need to replace your thermal paste ASAP, is if your PS3's system fan goes to the highest speed within 5 minutes after first turning the console on.

Another big sign is if cool air being exhausted from the back of the PS3.

If either of these signs applies to you, this indicates that the thermal paste is no longer properly transferring heat away from the PS3's main processors as it should. As a result your PS3 may overheat, damaging it and potentially causing the YLOD.

Many people have been advocating replacing the original thermal grease with Arctic Silver 5 (AS5), while there is nothing wrong with that, there are many other thermal compounds you should consider. With any silver-based thermal compound there is the potential issue of problems occurring if excess paste were ever to spill onto the motherboard, because of its conductive nature. While AS5 is made not to be conductive, it is still slightly capacitive.

AS5 takes up to 200 hours to fully cure.What this means is that for the first 200 hours of use, you should only play the PS3 for 1-2 hours at a time, giving the unit 10-15 minute breaks between intervals. If you don't have the patience to do this, you could damage your system.

Most other available thermal compounds have little to no curing time.

MX-4
MX-4

I recommend Arctic Cooling MX-4 thermal compound. This is one of the newest carbon-based compounds, the best thermal conductor available in nature, having several times better thermal conductivity as silver.

MX-4 has no cure time, and it costs about the same price as AS5. MX-4 also has 2.4 times the thermal conductivity as Arctic Silver 5 (8.5 W/mk vs. 3.5 W/mk). What I like best about this paste is that it has a durability rating of 8 years, meaning that the performance of this product should not decrease over that period of time.

When the thermal paste is properly applied, the air exhausted from the PS3 will be very warm. This indicates to you that the thermal paste working as it should, and conducting heat away from the system.

Unless you have to, I suggest only replacing the thermal paste once. Because of its 8 year durability rating, a high quality paste like MX-4 should last you until well after the PlayStation 4 is released. If you attempt to reapply thermal paste on a device that already has a good quality paste applied, it can be very difficult to remove the heatsink easily because the paste forms a tight bond between the processors and the heatsink, like glue. You could potentially damage the motherboard from the force required to remove the heatsink. If you want to replace the paste anyway, you may want to first try running the PS3 for at least 30 minutes beforehand. When the PS3 heats up it may soften the paste up, making it easier to pull the heatsink apart.

As far as application of the thermal compound goes, I would suggest that a pea sized amount ~8mm in diameter (I used an engineering stincil to measure this amount) be placed in the center of the PS3's CELL & RSX processors. In this manner the compound will spread out smoothly and evenly, when you reattatch the heatsink back on the motherboard, preventing air pockets from forming in the paste (that can counteract the proper thermal transfer process).

It is not necessary to cover the whole surface when the thermal paste spreads, because most of the heat is concentrated around the core area which is at the center. Therefore the center of the chips are the most important part to target. In the picture below are the CELL (left) and RSX (right) processors with the heatspreaders removed. As you can see in the picture, the actual processors are located in the center, and that is where most of the heat is concentrated.

You can always apply larger amount of MX-4 if you are concerned and want to ensure complete coverage of the processors. If any excess paste happens to spill onto the motherboard, it will be fine since MX-4 is made of totally non-conductive ingredients.

See this video below, for a demonstration on how thermal paste spreads when applied:

You should also consider replace the thermal pads on the PS3 motherboard. Thermal pads help facilitate the transfer of heat away from other key chips on the PS3 motherboard to the heatsink. Apparently your PS3 can also get a YLOD condition if one of these pads fails to work as it is supposed to.

The thermal pads Sony has installed in the PS3 doesn't do a great job in removing heat from the motherboard. There are better quality thermal pads available that are several times more effective. The recommended thermal pads for example (linked below), are rated to be up to five times more effective in transferring heat, and when used in combination with a high quality thermal paste, can help lower the overall temperature of the PS33's motherboard by up to 10-15 degrees.

This thermal pad is sold in a sheet, where you can cut it to the proper size. As shown in the picture above, there is more than enough to cover the chips on a CECHA motherboard.

Even if you decide not to replace your pads right now, make sure you at least have themal pads attached to these areas, before you put your PS3 back together, or it may overheat.

Pictured below are the highlighted areas on the 60GB CECHA PlayStaion 3 motherboard, where the thermal pads need to be placed. If you are working with a different PS3 model, please pay careful attention to where the pads are located when you first open up your system.

PS3 Thermal Pad
PS3 Thermal Pad

The following video demonstrates how to measure out the components of your thermal pad (for the CECHA model), prior to installation:

Just to emphasize, changing both the thermal paste and thermal pads are the most important and effective thing you can do to keep your PS3 from overheating (which may lead to YLOD), much more important than the other tips. Although you have to completely disassemble your PS3 before you can even change your thermal paste and thermal pads, the good news is that the material costs for this tip is usually less expensive than replacing the fan or power supply.

You will get a good indication that your thermal paste/thermal pad installation is working properly when the fan speed goes up and down while you are playing a game, and drops soon after you quit a game. This indicates that heat is being conducted away from the PlayStation 3 in a very efficient and effective manner.

Amazon: High Performance Thermal Pad

How These Tips Stack Up

In order of importance:

1.Thermal paste and thermal pads

2. Fan

3. Power supply

In ease of accomplishment:

1. Power supply

2. Fan

3. Thermal paste and thermal pads

Bonus Tip

Air Flow Modification

This tip modifies the air flow of the PS3, by allowing air to flow directly to the system fan, rather than indirectly through the front vents of the console. This is accomplished through drilling a series of ventilation holes in the system case directly under the system fan. By doing this the PS3 is able to cool itself with a larger volume of air than it normally would. Apparently, the PS3 will overall run 20+ degrees cooler by doing this modification.

In my personal testing of this mod, I have found that my PS3 is able to stay at the lower fan speeds longer, and is able to cool itself down much faster than it normally would. This bonus tip really helps amplify the effects of Tips 2 & 3.

This is an advanced level modification of the PS3, and is only recommended for highly skilled individuals. Fortunately for everyone else, Endless Electronics offers this modification for sale. They call it the X-Flow Fan Modification. You can see a picture of this modification below.

The Following Regards PS3 Models:

40GB (CECHH)

40GB (CECHJ)

80GB (CECHK)

80GB (CECHL)

80GB (CECHM)

160GB (CECHP)

160GB (CECHQ)

PS3 Slim (All Models)

PS3 Super Slim (All Models)

Tips for other PS3 models

Although there can be an alternative power supply you can use (depending on the model), the power and heat savings are so small it isn't worthwhile to replace it, unless it is already faulty. You can refer to this chart to find out which power supply you may need to replace should it prove to be faulty.

If you want to change the fan or thermal paste on PS3 models CECHH-CECHQ, you need to be very careful. The reason is that performing either of these tips requires the heatsink to be removed, which can be quite difficult to reattach on these PS3 models. If it is not re-assembled properly, thermal conduction between the CPU/GPU; the heatsink could be compromised, and you would then be worse off than you were to begin with. I have read many accounts in the PlayStation.com forums, where people have reported that this issue happen to them.

Although it is still very important have the thermal paste and pads replaced on these models, I recommend that you should have a place like Endless Electronics do it for you. This company has the expertise to apply new thermal paste and reattach the heatsinks back on properly.

If you happen to own a PS3 Slim (or PS3 Super Slim), the only thing you may want to think about doing is to change the thermal paste. These PS3 models don't use thermal pads, and changing the fan and power supply is not necessary. To dissasemble this PS3 Slim, please follow this guide. For the PS3 Super Slim, please follow this guide.

Have these tips performed for you professionally

Along with changing the thermal pads and thermal paste, Endless Electronics now sells and installs the APS-226 power supply (Tip #1) and 19-blade fan (Tip #2), if you just want to have one or two parts replaced individually. If you wish to have all three of these tips done at once (plus the X-Flow Fan Modification), Endless Electronics offers all of this at a discount, with their Component Upgrade Package.

So if you want a professional installation of these tips (all backed up with a warranty), this is the recommended option.

The video below shows what is contained in the Component Upgrade Package in detail.

What if I already have the YLOD?

If you are currently a victim of a YLOD issue, you should consider having your PS3 reballed. Reballing will basically bring your PS3 back to the state it was before it got the YLOD condition.

Performing a reflow of the solder on your PS3 can work and will repair your system in many cases. The problem with reflowing is eventually the YLOD problem will return, because over time the process of the chip heating and cooling will cause the "Lead Free" solder to fail again.

With Reflowing, no new solder is applied and the chip is not removed. The chip is just reheated so that the solder will melt and hopefully reconnect the joints. Be advised that if you attempt a reflow yourself (using DYI guides), you could easily damage your PS3 if you perform it incorrectly. This would make it harder to fix your PS3 through reballing, if you choose that later.

With Reballing, all the old solder is removed. The chip and the motherboard is then cleaned and brand new "Leaded" solder is later applied. Using Leaded solder makes this repair stronger than the original lead free solder, and your system should last for a very long time.

Although sending your PS3 back to Sony will fix your YLOD problems, chances are they will come back again. Here's why, Sony still uses "Lead Free" solder. If you have a PS3 Fat model, you will get back a PS3 Fat model using the same solder that can crack once again. The only way to solve this problem is to have your PS3 chips re-balled using "Leaded" solder. Leaded solder is far superior in strength and will never crack or melt under the CPU's temp. I have read many accounts of people's refurbished systems breaking down soon after the 90 day warranty on these systems has expired. Sony typically charges $100-$150 for an out of warranty repair.

Endless Electronics also performs reball repairs on the PS3. They are registered with the BBB and have high customer satisfaction. Not only are their prices very reasonable, but they also offer a YLOD lifetime warranty option, so if your system ever gets the YLOD again they will fix it again for free. (Note: To take advantage of the YLOD Lifetime Warranty option, you have to have not ever opened up your PS3 before, and the original Sony warranty seal must still be intact). No other company that I know of offers this kind of guarantee on reball repair.

Endless Electronics is also the only repair company that I know of that will repair and offer a warranty (if they are able to repair it) on consoles that have been opened and/or have had a previous repair attempt made. Most repair companies will either not repair a system with the warranty seal broken, or not offer any kind of substantial warranty on their repairs.

Although Endless Electronics is a USA based company, they now accept international orders. For more information, please click on this link.

Conclusion

With these 3 tips, I believe you can make your PS3 run and cool better than it has before, and you can assure yourself that you have taken all the steps you could to keep your system operating properly for a long time. Of course these tips are going to be most effective to those whom never had their PS3 repaired due to experiencing a motherboard based YLOD issue.

Comments & Questions

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    • Dedeca PT profile image

      Décio Correia Teixeira 2 weeks ago from England

    • profile image

      hama364 4 months ago

      very interesting article....!!

    • profile image

      Chris 2 years ago

      So I followed the videos. Now my PS3 won't even boot. I did this in the 1st place because it had become so loud and hot when running. Is it broken now?

    • Faisal Ghaswala profile image

      Faisal Ghaswala 2 years ago

      wow there is whole lot of knowledge over here!!

    • profile image

      otyg 2 years ago

      I have CECHG and I installed the 19 blade fan , and to me it seems like it makes the system much much hotter (ie heatsoaking it), while it is much quieter I found it does a lot more mode switches then the 15 blade

      for example the 15 blade did 3 modes (bootup, idle mode (xmb, ps1, non demanding games), and noisy mode that usually cools the system down. - probably a few more modes after this but my system never reached them

      the 19 blade has 4 or 5 modes which is concerning since the syscon controls the speed it should stay in the same modes as the 15 blade modes 1-3, but no it is doing 1-5 and mode 5 is very loud and annoying- the only thing that can cause speed changes is HEAT

      if anyone has CFW and can prove me wrong I would love to know..

    • profile image

      ananas 2 years ago

      @aaronprather

      Hi i have the CECHC03 model, When i press the power button it turns green and hums for a few seconds and then it just turns off again, there is no ylod, I can access the safe mode but it freezes when i try a system reset or update, so I wounder if the power supply is not working, my question is :

      Is my motherboard broken or the PSU ? And,

      Can I replace the APS-227 with the APS-231 ? even thou it say's it is not compatible.

    • profile image

      Oldschool_isCool 3 years ago

      First of all excellent guide it's the most complete I've found so far ! Great job sir.

      Bought my PS3 Fat 80 Gigs in 2009 never had any problems ( although I've used intesively about 10 to 8 hours a day over 4 month periods )

      Recently I can't play new games ( 1080i/p games ) more than 10 to 20 minutes before the PS shuts down and gives me a blinking red light.

      When I play PS1 games the console functions normaly over several hours ( never shuts down when playing FF 9 for example )

      Always played in an open environment and made sure to vacume it regularly.

      Note : The weather is often hot where I live temps usualy above 86 F/ 30 Celclius , and I rarely turn the AC on.

      Any tips not involving opening my PS , as in software tweaks or external solutions ?

      Since I have quite a few PS3 games I've been thinking of buying a used PS for around 120 $, thanks in advance !

    • profile image

      Solid Snake 3 years ago

      Great page. Thanks for all the useful hints!

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      @anonymous: In case you're still having the issues. Make sure the ribbon on the network card/board is connected in both locations. That was the issue for me when my controllers wouldn't register and the ethernet jack wasn't working. On the fat PS3 (60GB), the network card is at the front of the system, directly in front of the power supply. Just pop off the cover, unscrew the network board and double check that the ribbon is connected in both spots..

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      I performed the following on my FAT PS3 recently.

      Cleaned entire board with 70% rubbing alcohol.

      Re-Applied NASA grade grease compound

      Heated board to 400 degrees

      Heated CPU and GPU to 600 degrees

      Cooled for two hours - naturally (room temperature)

      Reassembled

      Works but within 5-10 minutes, HIGH FAN speed, which this unit has always done

      Question - Could it be the larger HD (320GB) causing this?

      The unit sits in/on entertainment system with cold air vent behind PS3 and 4+ inches on open space all around the unit.

      Thanks in advance for your assistance.

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      Just wanted to say thanks to those who made these tutorials. My fat PS3 CECHH would overheat randomly. At times the P/S fan would take off after only 10 mins into any game. Other times I can be on it for more than 2 hours before it overheats. I applied new thermal paste and replaced the thermal pads and now my PS3 runs like it's got a new lease on life. It has not overheated since I fixed it about a month ago.

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      Hello,

      I reassembled my PS3 but my controller isn't connecting to it. It is wired and still nothing. Any suggestions?

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      Hello! anyone can help me.My friend got his ps3 reballed but ylod even after reballing the console didnt booted up just ylod again.And i have ps3 slim cech 3003 a its fan sounds like running on lvl 3 high speed in 30 mins of gameplay i have replaced thermal paste with a cheap thermal paste but didnt worked any ideas? or should i get arctic mx-4 ? reply soon anyone else

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      can anyone tell me anything about my system its a "CECH 2001 A 120 GB" I bought it around October 2005 and have had no problems up until now. Twice now it has made a sound like someone trying to put a transmission in gear without the clutch, it lasted for a couple of minutes then stopped. someone told me its the hard drive coming apart. Anyway now whenever I'm playing a game imy tv screen will go black for like 5 to 10 seconds then come back and away we go, almost as if I paused it then everything is fine. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      @anonymous: OMG, I can't believe this happened.

      Aaron and I spoke several times on the PlayStation forums, as well as on here. From what I know, he was in his 30s. Any idea what happened?

      My condolences to his family. This is truly tragic. He will be sorely missed.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      Hello! I have at home MX-1 thermal paste. Is it at least closely as good as MX-4 or I shouldn't use this?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      I want to repair my ps3. It has the YLOD death but cant find any tutorials on this model CECHP01. I have repaired other models in the past but this motherboard is different.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      Unfortunately the author of these tips Aaron aka Logical_Dolphin apparently passed away on March 6, 2013. Our team wishes to express our appreciation to him for his many years of contribution and advice as an MVP to fellow PS3 owners on the PSN Community Forums. Thanks again Logical. RIP.

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      Apple75 4 years ago

      I found this good reference after performed reflow in my CECHE 80GB, last week. I need to verify because i don't hear the fan spin up. But my question is, What happen if after reflow not turn on? Is possible to make for second time? OR how to check the power supply? Or it possible to turn on the PS3 w/out assembly complete? -Thanks.

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      Apple75 4 years ago

      I found this good reference after performed reflow in my CECHE 80GB, last week. I need to verify because i don't hear the fan spin up. But my question is, What happen if after reflow not turn on? Is possible to make for second time? OR how to check the power supply? Or it possible to turn on the PS3 w/out assembly complete? -Thanks.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      I bought a PS3 for $50. It worked ok, but had the very loud fan shortly after turning it on. I followed your video instructions, and now it is working quietly. Thanks so much, it's like having new PS3 for about $70.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      My motherboard is burnt. Any hope for that?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      My motherboard is burnt. Any hope for that?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      Really disappointed. I just disassembled my PS3 to change the thermal paste on my PS3, and add thermal pads. I have an 80GB PS3 (CECHE01). And when I finally put it together again, the system won't get any power when I try to turn it on. I turn on AC in the back, and nothing. No sound. No red light coming on. I think the ribbon connected to the power/eject button board got damaged, and I have a replacement ribbon on it's way. I hope that fixes the problem.

      Any suggestions?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      I just read and watched the videos it is all very informative thank you very much for sharing. Quick info...my ps3 rarely gets used (orig. fat b/c version) I am away from home working 8/9 months a year when home I play a couple of hours on weekends. When I start my ps3 cpu is 45-50 c rsx 35-40 after about half an hour I check cpu skyrockets to 72 c rsx 64 c. Room temp is 22 c. I feel warm air is coming out the vents not extremely hot but warmer than I think is acceptable....mind you I don't know what is acceptable? From what I have read alot of people have said around 60 c after playing an hour is good. I guess my question do you believe it is my thermal paste that I should change? Thanks for any advice/input.

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      Skrotnisse 4 years ago

      Hi! I would like to get some help, to determine what my ylod problem might be.

      I have a phat 60gb pal machine (cechc04).

      I was watching something at netflix one day, for about 30 minutes, when all of a sudden the screen went black, and the ps3 was beeping and flashing red.

      after this, whenever i turn on my ps3 it will start up but while booting, the 'wave' and startup sound are both stuttering. after maybe not more than 10 seconds it turn it self off again with the black screen and beeping.

      I have tried to pull out the hdd and start up, but no change.

      Any suggestions?

      This is my second ylod on this machine, first was maybe 2 years ago, and was due to a broken bluray drive, which i replaced myself. no problems at all until now, and i'm pretty sure this is something else.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      Hello Aaron

      just a quick one, putting a APS-227 into a japanese CECH A00 60GB should work right. Yep I live in PAL region ;)

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      cunondrum 4 years ago

      Hello i installed the talismoon whisper fan on a phat ps3 and the problem is that when i turn off the ps3 the fan keeps spinning!!!What did i do wrong do you have any idea?Thanks in advance.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      hello I was wondering about the thermal paste I found this thermal paste called Antec Formula 7 Nano Diamond at my local staples store is it as good as the Artic Cooling Mx-4?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      I don't know if you saw my earlier response, but I was having trouble with my disc drive making a grinding noise, so I tried putting in a disc but the noise didn't stop. My PS3 noticed that the disc was there but did not play it. I was beginning to think that the problem might be my fan, since the sound it makes resembles a fan scraping against another object. However, when I tried to eject the disc, the power light flashed yellow and the console shut down. I reopened my system, removed the disc, and found your video on replacing the laser. I followed your instructions in that video, hoping that I might be able to find the problem and fix it through a little reverse-engineering. After reassembling my disc drive, the noise continued. Any idea what the problem might be? Should I just replace my disc drive?

      If you did see my earlier response, I apologize for reposting this but I'm very concerned and don't know what to do about it.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      I bidded for a sony fat ps3 with fits into one of the criteria above about the CHECH thing or whatever. It has ylod 3 times. Do you thonk by following your guidelines and hints i could prevent it having ylod again

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      @anonymous: So I put in a disc and the grinding noise didn't stop. My PS3 noticed that the disc was there but did not play it. I was beginning to think that the problem might be my fan, since the sound it makes resembles a fan scraping against another object. However, when I tried to eject the disc, the power light flashed yellow and the console shut down. I reopened my system, removed the disc, and found your video on replacing the laser. I followed your instructions in that video, hoping that I might be able to find the problem and fix it through a little reverse-engineering. After reassembling my disc drive, the noise continued. Any idea what the problem might be? Should I just replace my disc drive?

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      tylerlewis09 4 years ago

      @aaronprather: It was a jam in the fan which caused the system to overheat and not turn on

      I just had to clean it out (cat hair and dander), it also blew my av cord somehow but thanks for the tips man

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      tylerlewis09 4 years ago

      @aaronprather: Alright thanks man. I'll try to let you know how it turns out

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @tylerlewis09: You can always try buying a new power cord, you can always return it if it doesn't work out. But most likely you will have to replace the power supply.

      The easiest way to get a power supply for your model is to look up APS-239 or EADP-260AB on eBay. Either one of those power supply models would work on your PS3

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      tylerlewis09 4 years ago

      Hey,

      My CECHK 80GB system just got the YLOD and I believe it is the power system failure, would i have to replace the power cord or the entire power supply? I have a Walmart down the street that sells the power cords. The supply would be a more difficult thing to obtain.

      Thanks

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: Those are hard questions to answer. The combination of the brittle lead-free solder and a hot running GPU, does make the YLOD more likely to happen for anyone with the fat PS3 models. IMO the sooner one does some preventative maintenance to help avoid the YLOD (particularly the thermal paste/thermal pad replacement), the better off you will be.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      I was told that after so long, that YLOD is inevitable unless you put a new motherboard in your PS3 and replace parts and stuff etc.. Is there really a point in which YLOD happening is written in stone if it still hasn't happened yet or can it always be prevented? There's no point in which its only a matter of time before the console will YLOD if it hasn't yet done so is there? Are there REALLY any unpreventable YLOD causes?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      @aaronprather: I haven't actually tried it yet. I've asked someone else and they think that something in the Blu-Ray dive might have been knocked out of place when I was disassembling/reassembling my console.

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: I'm sorry I am not sure why or what is causing your issue. Is the Blu-Ray drive functioning OK otherwise?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      @anonymous: After reexamining my console, I figured out that the noise is coming from the blu-ray drive. Any ideas as to what might have caused this and how it can be fixed?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      Hi, I just followed all the steps in your tutorial videos on preventing the YLOD for my CECHA model PS3 and now it's making a very loud, repetitive grinding noise when I turn it on. Any idea as to what may have caused this and how I can solve the problem?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      Wow! Endless electronics is located here in St. Louis 15 minutes away from where I live! I'm sending my ps3 there in person!

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @Chubunater: I have heard of some other people with the same YLOD issue. I'm sorry but I don't know what is causing that. I suggest you might try contacting Endless Electronics about it and see what they think might be the issue...

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      Chubunater 4 years ago

      @Chubunater: UPDATE:"Sorry, about making a double post"

      It seems that the powersupply wasn't the problem but I'm glad i changed it anyway because my old one made a sound like something was loose in it when I was replacing it. Anyway my ps3 still has a red flashing light when I shut it down manually also another thing i forgot to mention is that my ps3 will sometime act like it has the YLOD but after numerous tries it will boot up find. Kind of like a car that you constantly have to crank up to get it going. So at this point I'm probably gonna strip all the way down myself and see if i can discover what the culprit is. Any tips would be great

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      Chubunater 4 years ago

      @anonymous: I doubt its that because the repair shop takes care of that whenever I take it up there, then again those guys be aholes and just rush through when they fix it. I might give that a try when i get some thermal paste

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: I do know that LA Noire really pushes the PS3, so it isn't unusual that it is louder than other games you play.

      If your PS3 is overheating, you will either get a warning message onscreen about it and/or the PS3 will shut itself off. This really isn't something you should worry about.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      Hello Aaron,

      I have a question about all this. Well I have a New Normal PS3 Slim I bought 8 months ago. Anyway I thinkt it might be too premature to ask this anyway, but do you think my PS3 is dying? whenever I play usually on sandbox games (open-wolds) sounds louder than usual. Games like Red Dead Redemption and LA Noire and the like. It doesn't sound any loud when I play other games. What might be causing this?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      @anonymous: I had the same problem and it was a cooling issue. If your PS3 fan is running on high alot it confirms a cooling issue. Get all the dust out of the heat sync and also change the thermal paste. I recently did this to mine it runs like new again. If your PS3 turns on it probably isn't the power suppy.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      @aaronprather: Ah thanks for the info i guess i will try to get my hands on aps-226 model

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: I do agree that it sounds like the culprit is the power supply. It is easy enough for you to buy and replace it yourself, since your repair shop doesn't agree.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      Hello, I have been having a weird problem with my ps3 model (CECHE01) back in July 2011 i took it to a repair shop because it was dropped and got the YLOD. They fixed it and everything was fine up until like the june 2012 where it started autoshutting down on certain games. I tried talking to the console repair people about it and they said that it was a YLOD issue so i went ahead and let them fix it again. But like the week i got it back from them that, weekend my friends came over and tried to play Uncharted 2 and it autoshutdown on it. Ever since then after that whenever I play my PS3, I sometimes get a flashing red light when I manually shut it down. I think it has to do with the powersupply but after i took it to the shop again to get looked at they said that my blue ray lazer wasn't functioning right (even though when i got it back it still loading ps3 disc fine). Now i don't what could be wrong now. I need some advice on what should i do at this point..

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      @anonymous: My 80GB system did the same thing. It got to the point where it wouldn't even start the games up anymore. The problem is the blue ray player. It will read the games for awhile then it stops reading the games all together. Don't buy those cleaning kits cause I here they don't work just spend a little extra money and replace either the blue ray player eye component (which i did) or the whole blue ray player. My system hasn't had a problem yet with freezing after I did that.

      FYI - I am not an IT guy

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: I believe Endless Electronics now uses MX-4 in all their repairs. You should write to them to verify to yourself...

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: PS3 Slims do not need thermal pads.

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: You can use the APS-227, but it is only compatible with 220V-240V voltages, the APS-226 is a universal power adapter so you won't need a step-down converter like you might need for the APS-227 if you ever took your PS3 overseas.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      Hi folks! I have the PS3 60GB Phat version bought frm the US but use it in Europe. I am almost 100% sure its the Power Supply.. The problem i'm encountering is that I dont know if the APS 227 is any good for a replacement of the ZSSR539IA found in my PS3? Is it compatible ? I found some info(compatibility chart) on wiki which indicate it is NOT compatible however everyone else seems to have a different idea.. What do you guys think ?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      HI Aaron,

      I bought my PS3 slim 3 years ago, and now I'm considering to send them to EE to avoid the YLOD. I'd like them to change the thermal paste, but I don't know about thermal pads. you think PS3 slims also need thermal pads?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      Hi,

      I'm not really a tech guy, so I'm scared of doing all of these things. I'm thinking about sending my PS3 to Endless Electronics. However, I have a question Do you know if Endless Electronics uses Arctic Cooling MX-4? Cause it seems very interesting the fact that it last for 8 years.

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: OK, thanks for the update!

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      @aaronprather: Hello.

      I only wanted to let you know that I sent a message to EE and they told me that they X-Flow on Slims, just that is the opposite to the PS3 FAT. The modification is made on the top because the ventilation on Slims is different.

      This information might be useful for your blog so that way people might send them to EE.

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: I'm pretty sure that Endless Electronics cannot do a X-Flow on a PS3 slim, that mod was designed for the fat PS3 models, a Slim console probably doesn't need it.

      You can ask Endless Electronics about this, but I don't think it really matters what position you put a PS3 Slim in, it is more important in the fat models.

      As for that accessory, it probably won't hurt to use it, but I don't think it is really necessary for a PS3 Slim. Games like LA Noire are known to push the PS3, so the fan will probably be loud regardless...

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      Hey what's up . Ok I used to own a PS3 Fat a long time ago , now I have a slim, but usually it gets really hot here in this city where I live, so sometimes the fan sounds loud especially when I play games like LA Noire.

      I want to avoid YLOD, but I'm not sure what I should I do first:

      First I want you expert opinion about this accessory that seems to have good reviews in a lot of web sites

      www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzXUTCJO02U

      I'm not really sure if I should get that thing or ship my Slim to Endless Electronics so they can make that modification called X-Flow Fan Modification which looks very interesting. Furthermore, I once read that Endless Electronics recommends that all PS3's should be placed vertically no matter which model because the air flow is better or something. I don't know if I should get a Vertical Stand, so as you can see I'm totally undecided about what to do. What would you recommend me to do?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      @anonymous: Well I didn't seem to have much thermal paste in the tube but hopefully got enough on each chip, the console while functioning is still displaying the fan issue in the short Black Ops 2 test I did, hopefully I have not made the problem worse but an interesting learning curve nonetheless. I'll be starting Far Cry 3 soon if the fan becomes a regular offline issue as well I'll be looking at replacing the console as I already have a year of planned purchases, one of which will most likely involve heavy usage that warrants a healthy console by itself most likely a slim as the super slim disc tray is not to my liking lol it must eat discs magically or not at all haha ^^

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      @aaronprather: ok i open my ps3 thermal paste was near dry. So i re apply paste. Now temperature on load is cpu 68 rsx 65. Tempeature drop is big.

      but ps3 still dispaly ylod on start after 2-3 restart it start working. without any problem.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      @aaronprather: I bought some decent Nano Diamond thermal compound stuff today so that will hopefully do the trick, I get that certain games will make the fan run faster and more noticeably that I don't mind but I have never had this problem before even with BO2 and AC3 before the other week or any game which is why the sudden loudness worried me. If this does the trick that will be great if not I guess I can put up with it or buy a new one like you said. The PS4 is still a bit away so still an ok investment to make even just for a future blu ray player etc.

      Thanks for the quick reply I'll post the result after I try it ^^

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: You can try reapplying the paste and see if your results change, but I suspect that it will remain about the same. Games like BO2 & AC3 really push the PS3 and cause the fan to run faster to compensate for the heat generated. A 19 blade fan probably isn't necessary for your model. If you want a quieter console, you probably just need to upgrade to the newer slim and superslim models.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      Hi there, I've read through all the recent fan related questions but thought I'd throw in my own if you don't mind.

      I recently had my 40GB PS3 fixed due to YLOD (Thermal paste was reapplied to both chips professionally with a 6 month warranty), it was working as good as new for almost 2 months. Now though the fan has begun to start running at audibly loud levels (Level 3?) particularly during online gameplay (Black OPs 2) and also while playing other graphicly intense games (Assassins Creed 3). The consoles position has not changed and is well ventilated, my efforts to deliberately cool my room in case winter heating and indoor humidity were behind it have had no effect. The PS3 itself is cool to the touch and the air escaping from the back is not particularly warm as I'd expect from an overheating console, I have recieved no warning message that the console is overheating like some players report recieving in similar instances and can still play just the noise is distracting.

      You have mentioned that the thermal pastes connection with the heat sink may have something to do with it, earlier today before I found this page I stripped down my PS3 with the intention of cleaning it out thinking dust may be the culprit. It wasn't particularly dusty and I wiped down the fan itself (15 blades good job I counted at the time before I was aware that 19 was a possible configuration). I also inspected the thermal paste to see what this guy had actually done for £65 ($105) I could read part of the writing on the chips centre and it was a thick grey paste still very pliable and sticky so using my fingers (bad idea hard to wash off) I evened out the spread of the paste so the writing was no longer visible (I wouldn't say there was a lot of paste on the chips but it was covered) I then reassembled the console and plugged it in, tested it out and it was all working etc though the fan issue is still there.

      Now before I call this place up and keeping in mind its Christmas so they won't be able to do anything till after New year etc is it likely that all I need to do is apply copious amounts of thermal paste to the centre of the chips in particular? Or is this not such a simple fix requiring I buy a new 19 blade fan or new PS3 altogether, your videos and previous answers have made me think it will be the chips and the paste that are causing it though the timing considering it was recently repasted seems odd and could it just be that my 6 year old console is just old and knackerd I guess ><

      I hope you can give me some expert advice based on the information I provided and Happy Holidays ^^

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: I think the issue you have has to do with damage to the GPU. It could be that some of the solder connections are broken under the GPU, but the chip is still able to function. This issue can be fixed with new thermal paste, the GPU probably needs to be reballed to be repaired properly...

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      I have a 40 GB CECHH model PS3 that recently began showing artifacting during gameplay only and then began to randomly power cycle. I replaced the thermal paste/pads within the sytem and the systen stopped power cycling but still had artifacting during gameplay.

      The system began to cycle again about 4 days later and then upon a restart had extremely terrible graphical display and distortion even when loading into the XMB. I replaced the Hard Drive just to be safe and it still acted the same and while doing a system restore the screen froze and stayed that way for 90 minutes before I manually powered it off.

      The current staus is that the system will boot but has no display output, it will stay on without power cycling and does not reset, the lights have always been Green or Red appropriately, and the system will even turn off normally if you hold the contact points. My question is what exactly the issue is and if I can fix it myself? Should I possibly be checking my thermal paste connections? Was the artifacting something that is telltale of another issue? Please help!

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: If you are getting the YLOD, that indicates you have a intermittent problem (solder connection) that a paste replacement won't be able to fix. Your YLOD issue may be permanent in the future. I suggest you backup your data ASAP.

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      My ps3 is 40 GB cechh-04. when ever i turn on ps3 it display ylod. After restarting 2-3 times. it start to work again without any problem . play it straight 4 -5 hours with out any freeze or problem . This is happening from last week.

      in multiman temperature is 70

      what is it? did it need paste replacement . or any other thing causing this. yold happened only on starting once ps3 start then there is no problem . even if u play for 5 hours.

      Thanks

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      aaronprather 4 years ago

      @anonymous: I'm not really an expert on issues like yours, but if I had to guess I believe that there is a problem with the CPU and/or GPU, that is causing your PS3 to freeze like that. There also could be a problem with the Blu-ray drive, if every time it freezes you have a disc in the drive.

      I don't know of a way to further narrow down what the source of your problem is, so you may have to resort to having a local repair shop or Sony fix this issue for you...

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      I Have a PS3 slim, CECH2004B, almost 3yrs old now. Everytime I start it to play or browse or watch movie it freezes after 15min. So i have to restart it then, it will happen again this time every 5 min. which i can't do anything to my PS3. I try the recovery mode options, each one of it. I also change the hard drive. I change the thermal paste, still nothing, it still freezes.

      One time i don't use my PS3 for a month, after that, I decided to play and start it. I can play for almost 2-3hrs for 3 days then again, back to freezing.. First after 15min, then afterwards, every 5min.

      What seems to be the problem of my PS3? any suggestions or solutions perhaps.. need help..my PS3 has been like this for almost 1yr now.

      My PS3 is 3yrs now, Have'nt played much heavily on it, so i'm wondering what would be the problem..

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      I have a CECH G 40 GB phat PS3, I have had it for 3 years. One year ago is when the problems started. The fan would go to level 3 on some games after over an hour of play. It progressively got worse and would go to level 3 in 15-20 mins when i played any game.

      4 months ago i was hit by the YLOD, I opened and fixed with reflow method using a hair dryer. replaced with thermal paste ( not much variety where i live), using the credit card smearing method. I managed to repair the YLOD, however, The fan went to level 3 in 5 minutes no matter what game i was playing, even surfing the internet or watching a movie.

      After 2 moths the YLOD hit me again, repaired again. The fan still went to level 3 and this time i ignored it. It lasted only one month. YlOD happened again. I reflowed it yet again. This time i had to redo the reflow 5 times before it finally worked. Now it takes 15 mins to go to level 3. The air coming out the vents is warm- not hot. I tried a cooling pad on the base of the PS3 it doesnt held.

      Im glad i stumbled on your #3 TIPS. Im very worried that the PS3 will become unrepairable soon and i know its a cooling issue.

      Im considering all the methods after what i've been through. particularly better thermal paste, 19 blade fan (mine is 15 blade) and holes around the plastic case.

      thanks aaronprather

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      aaronprather 5 years ago

      @anonymous: It won't hurt to do this, but IMO it doesn't help because it won't compensate for cooling issues that happen inside the console.

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      for ps3 500gb superslim, is it healthy to let it seat on a laptop cooling pad? my cooling pad has a usb plug that can be connected to my superslim model. im wandering if this is helpful coz of some forums telling to avoid this procedure.

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      aaronprather 5 years ago

      @anonymous: I does sound more like the HDD is your culprit. I suggest you back up your data, and get a new HDD.

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      @aaronprather: But little big planet is in my Hdd i forgot to mention

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      aaronprather 5 years ago

      @anonymous: If your friend is interested in having Endless Electronics in repairing your PS3, they have an international shipping option. See this link for more information:

      http://www.endlesselectronics.org/help/help/intern...

      It does sound like your HDD is the issue. I suggest you try a replacement HDD and see if that improves your situation. If not, the Blu-Ray drive is likely your problem...

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      My friend have cech g 401 40 gb ps3. it got ylod after 2.5 years.But theres no service here in Saudi Arabia which reballs :( . They only just heat ps3 and don't change paste.And asking 50 $ for it. should he give to sony ?

      And second i have CECH 3003 A 160 GB when i play Uncharted 3 it takes so much time to load and musics,cutscenes dont play well chops .and little big planet takes time to load and music chops . during that chopping i see Hdd indicator stops still after chopping works well . Is that Hdd probleming me . I remember when i full formated it was fixed but started again :(

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      @aaronprather: okay... then it will be fine, I think... thank you Aaron... I did not have YLOD problems so far... and I can play all my games right now... I'm so happy because my Fat PS3 seems like a "new" again :) .. Thanks

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      aaronprather 5 years ago

      @anonymous: The solder connections under the CELL processor could very well break too because of the lead-free solder, but it is much less likely to happen. I explain this in more detail in the article above.

      Most of the time it is the solder connections under the RSX processor that cause the YLOD.

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      @aaronprather: I see... If it's like you said than that will be awesome :) ... and I'm gonna very happy :) ... yes Aaron.. now I must pay attention for it's HDD and blu-ray Drive.. but how about the Cell processor, no problem too ?

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      aaronprather 5 years ago

      @anonymous: I think your PS3 should be far more resistant to getting the YLOD now and should last you until you don't play it anymore. If anything else goes wrong, it is likely to be with the HDD or Blu-Ray drive.

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      @anonymous: and then I do as your suggestion, Aaron ..

      My PS3 have been "Reballed" now.. RSX chip removed and then put it back with LEADED solder that you said is much stronger than Lead Free isn't that right ??

      and now...

      all the problem are gone!

      is so amazing... now I can playing every PS3 games without YLOD anymore..

      amazing!...

      then I started to think...

      that SONY have been made a BIG mistake in the past about PS3 Fat design... lead free solder is not good I think.. It break so easily.. and Sony didn't have a choice...

      Aaron..

      now how do you think about my PS3 Fat Lifespan right now ?

      can it be 3.. or maybe more than 5 years Lifespan ?

      (after I did a success "Reball" with leaded solder)

      Thanks

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      hello Aaron.

      This is my post before ::

      I have a problem. I have Fat PS3 160Gb model. it's works fine until now (about +/- 3 years use - just like you said) starts have a problem and shut down itself with red light flashing.

      but it just happened to some games, not all games, it happened when I played UNCHARTED 3 but my PS3 play just fine when I playing MGS4, TALES of GRACES f, PES2012 or TEKKEN 6. etc. no problem at all although I play 4 hours or more.

      but I have problem when playing Uncharted 3 just at some point (not all area) the cut scene(movie) have no problem too. i wonder why it just have problems at specific place.. also before auto shut off, I notice that PS3 yellow (HDD indicator) blinking rapidly just looks like it's read or write data (when playing Uncharted 3)

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      aaronprather 5 years ago

      @gunnygh: You're welcome! Good luck :)

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      gunnygh 5 years ago

      Thank you for your time. We gonna get the APS-226 then.

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      aaronprather 5 years ago

      @gunnygh: I used to recommend the APS-231 for the older PS3s, but it is put under too much stress and can burn out (but it won't harm your system). This happened to me, so I no longer recommend the APS-231. The APS-226 runs nearly as cool, and should be far more reliable for you.

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      gunnygh 5 years ago

      Thanks Aaron. The power supply model is APS-226. There is APS-231 on sale on Ebay.

      Some people say it runs cooler than what we got. Would you confirm that? We have 240v in Australia.

      We have 240v in Australia.

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      aaronprather 5 years ago

      @gunnygh: It does sound like the power supply is the problem with your system.

      I'm not sure what voltage you have in Australia, but I assume you have 220V, so you are likely to have the APS-227 power supply. You can replace it with that same model, or the APS-226 should work fine too.

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      gunnygh 5 years ago

      Hi Aaron. Thanks for your time. My son got first fat ps3 60gb. Today after 3-4 months not touching the ps3, it won't turn on. So no lights no beeps just dead quiet. Do you think this could be power supply? If so which power supply would you recommend? We from Australia.

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      aaronprather 5 years ago

      @anonymous: You can probably just benefit from applying thermal paste. You will probably see benefit just from that.

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      Hello,I have a ps3 fat 80gb CECHM model and my fan start to work full blast like 5-10 mins after i start up my ps3 even on just the menu screen,so i got worried and started to serche the interwebs and was wondering what of the abot stated tip should i apply to my ps3.I didt take apart my ps3 so i dont know what aprts are in if some1 know pls let me know ty.

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      @aaronprather: Thank you very much for the info! :)

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      aaronprather 5 years ago

      @anonymous: Those temps sound good, most PS3 models have different chip sizes so the temps will vary, but it should be noticeable to you if your model overheats.

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      aaronprather 5 years ago

      @anonymous: I have never tested this, but I would think that both those fans should perform about the same.

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      @anonymous: and one more thing. I've installed multiman on this ps3 my temp on boot is around 52c on cpu and 43c on rsx fan is too quiet to notice i think. after 5-15 mins my fan reaches level 3 and my temp stablizes at 75c cpu and 53c at rsx. Is this a good thing? I've only replaced my thermal paste with tuniq Tx-4. I'm still waiting for the thermal pads and the 19 blade fan if the 17 blades is not enough.