Master Chief's Mark VI Challenge
Ready to make your own Halo inspired Costume?
Get ready to take Master Chiefs Mark VI challenge and make your own Master Chief costume. If you've browsed the web on this topic chances are you've seen a few Halo costumes and maybe you would like to make some Halo spartan armor yourself. You've come to the right place soldier.
So what is the Mark VI challenge?
It's a puzzle in essence, like a foam 3-D only you paint and wear your finished armor project.
The first thing to do is to buy the basic patterns (not available until further notice)
Next you will visit the how to page HERE and follow steps 2 through 6. Remember to scale the patterns, they are sized for a 75" tall individual. After you print and cut out the shapes be sure to tape the multi-page shapes together prior to cutting out the foam.
Here on this page you will find all the detailed and up close reference photos of the original suit these patterns made and I've included any hints I can think of with the pictures. There is also a Questions & Answers section, where I post replies to questions about the patterns.
Remember, it's a puzzle that you are putting together and a challenge.
Good luck and happy armoring!
Master Chief's Patterns - Samples. The real patterns are larger, 58 pages in total!Click thumbnail to view full-size
Some of the patterns are more than 1 page in size, extend off the edge of the paper and will need to be taped together. They will have a thick dotted line to assist in achieving the correct placement. Other interior lines indicate details, or mountain/valley cuts, refer to the pictures for definition. Shapes marked as details are thin foam.
WIP Report: A completed MK VI challenge - Armor crafted by 405th.com member FWBulldog
FWBulldog spent some time browsing the 405th.com forums and reviewing the various ways to make Halo armor before deciding to take the MK VI challenge. He scaled the armor down and made it for his son who was, needless to say, absofraginlutely thrilled to be the Master Chief for Halloween (as we call it). To read his WIP (work-in-progress) forum thread and see what has earned him the coveted "Geek Dad Hero" title, CLICK HERE
Some goodies on Amazon - That you might need
For projects like this we prefer the dot matrix printer. Set up properly you can load all your pages and go for a coffee. Come back with your scissors.
It's like an endless clip for your printer. Print on hero, print on.
Large scissors are great for the big shapes and the soft grip on these are a nice touch.
Don't laugh, I own a pink pair of these, I mean, light red and they work great for smaller cuts.
Seal the foam with heat - A veterans tip
Before I work with a piece of foam I seal it using the heatgun on high temperature. This has 2 nice advantages for the small amount of time invested.
1) When you cut heatsealed foam with a high temperature hotknife you get less shriviling and/or melting and are able to achieve crisp lines for a nicer finished product.
2) Heatsealed foam uses far less plasti dip paint to rubberize, saving you $$$ in the long run
Tester Suit Pictures
Below you will find high res pictures of our tester suit taken from multiple angles to show what each of your final pieces should look like, much like how you look at the box picture while you put a puzzle together. For the torso, helm and cod the patterns are for center pieces and one side, flip the side patterns over for the other side.
I've put any notes I could think of with each picture.
All photos on this page are original content and under copyright, you may view these pictures and download them for personal use, however, you may not redistribute or republish these pictures in any format, online or otherwise.
So be nice, and ask us first.
Armor Pictures - Entire suit overviewClick thumbnail to view full-size
Torso Pictures - OverviewClick thumbnail to view full-size
Torso Pictures II - DetailsClick thumbnail to view full-size
Torso Pictures III - Back detailsClick thumbnail to view full-size
Helmet PicturesClick thumbnail to view full-size
Helmet Pictures II - Up closeClick thumbnail to view full-size
Codpiece PicturesClick thumbnail to view full-size
Shoulder PicturesClick thumbnail to view full-size
Forearm PicturesClick thumbnail to view full-size
Handplate PicturesClick thumbnail to view full-size
Thigh PicturesClick thumbnail to view full-size
This is the shape I used to complete the right inner thigh. Flip it over for the left side. Green lines are 3mm deep mountain cuts at 65 degree angle. You will need 3 for each side to layer them up with the topmost crafted from 3mm foam. The bottom cut does not have to be nice as the top of the next piece overlaps to the guidelines. Leave a little extra on each end to cut for custom sizing.
Shin Pictures - OverviewClick thumbnail to view full-size
Shin Pictures II - DetailsClick thumbnail to view full-size
Boot PicturesClick thumbnail to view full-size
Questions & Answers
Q: How do I scale the patterns?
A: The patterns are sized for 75" height. To scale the jpg first calculate your height as a % of 75", then load the jpg into a picture manager that allows you to re-size by % (such as office picture manager) and reduce the size accordingly. Some parts are meant to be large and padded, like the forearms, boots and shins and others can be custom fit tighter, like the cod, thighs and biceps simply by cutting the foam "band" part to match your limb size. You can also assemble the paper pattern with tape prior to cutting your foam to be sure you are happy with the size. The thigh is a good piece to use for scaling.
Q: On the helmet patterns, I am a little confused with the pieces. I cannot make out where the larger odd-looking pieces go and am having trouble with pages 1 and 2.
A: On helm6 there is a shape marked "helm detail" and is cut from 3mm foam, 1 for each side. This detail serves to give you a raised surface for 3mm black definition ridges and also covers the ugly seams on the rounded side shape on helm2 (the funny jagged shape on the right of the page) You would put this detail on last, after you are happy with the helmets final shape.
On helm1 the bottom piece is the top and back center strip. The center piece is a leftside/rightside part so you will need to cut one shape, flip the pattern over and cut another. These 2 parts join together at the narrow end to form the back of the helm. The last odd shaped part on helm1 is the cheek area. On page 2 the piece on the left is the bottom back neck piece and has a guideline on the left to line it up nice. The center piece is another leftside/rightside piece and is for under the helmet brim. Lastly the piece on the right is a leftside/rightside piece and is for the rounded parts on the top of the helm.
Q: How do I stick the pattern to the foam prior to cutting with the hotknife?
A: To stick a pattern to the foam I use scotch tape or painters tape as they do not affect the foam surface when removed. I loop it to make a small double sided sticky rectangle and use 1 or more, depending on the size of the pattern. . The idea is not to stick every paper edge down, that will happen when you put the metal ruler on it, rather, you want to keep the pattern from shifting around.
Q: I have 5 pages of shapes for the cod, but either there's a page missing, or I'm just not understanding how it goes together. Can you please help me understand the cod piece and what fits where?
A: On page cod1 the large shape is a left-side/right-side shape. Print and cut it twice, flip one over and tape them together at the solid line. Then cut this shape from the foam, it will be the rear bands/buckles that the assplate on cod3 attaches to. The shape in the top right corner is for the sides, you will need to cut 2 of these as well. The other shape is a 3mm detail for the front.
On page cod4 the smaller shape is the front and center above the groin cup. You can draw this shape on a 11mm x 11mm foam square and use it as a guide to overlap the front-side shapes found on cod4 and cod5.
When I make a helmet I start at the top first and get the dome shape, then I do the back to get the bucket shape and lastly I shape the front and use the visor to help get the final shape. I use the heatgun a lot for a helmet and once I am happy with the shape I put lots of glue on the inside to hold it securely.
The back of the torso can be confusing, hopefully this diagram will help
The under-suit for your Halo armor should be black, cover all your exposed flesh and made of a breathable material to help keep the heat down. Tight fitting black polyester sports wear and spandex work well and Nylon is good too, however, Nylon can be a little "baggy" and you may not achieve your desired look. Nylon also does nothing for sweat dissipation. And of course good ol' plain black ninja jammies always look good, regardless of material. A black Morphsuit is ideal.
You will need to sew some Velcro patches to the under-suit for the shoulders and thighs and glue some foam padding inside the forearms, shins and possibly boots and helmet for a custom fit. The torso portion that sits on your shoulders can also be padded for extra comfort.
Undersuit velcro and padding
Undersuit Goodies - That you might need
It's cloth, but will get the job done.
This item has rave reviews.
Customer review on Amazon - Do you want a thicker balaclava for the cooler summer weather but not too thick so you sweat too much? Do you want to finish your commando or ninja outfit? Do you want the best balaclava on Amazon? If so, then this balaclava is for you. This balaclava wicks away sweat very well if worn under a helmet or used in the field/sporting activities. The amount of neck coverage is fantastic, it covers well in the cool weather and stays put in the sun under your coat. The cheaper brands,though you get what you pay for, fit like a tube sock... all sloppy. This balaclava fits like it was custom made, the neck is tapered and fits snug but not tight but the area around your eyes and nose seals the deal. I have worn this with sunglasses, under a helmet, with goggles, under a boonie hat thru a zombie shoot outside (targets), and in all types of weather but the snow. Not once was my vision ever inhibited by the balaclava, the band around the opening even acts like a sweatband when it is really toasty out. Most balaclava's will start to slide off of your nose because they are stretching out, this one did not. I have washed it about 6 times and it shrunk just a bit, but did not alter the performance at all. I would recommend this balaclava to anyone.
One pack for the shoulders and another for the thighs. Optionally you can put on your ninja jammies and go raid the kids shoe closet for Velcro.
Black Morphsuit - The one stop shop of undersuits
This covers all your bases, it is not baggy, it's black, it covers all your skin and is breathable too. Sew the velcro patches directly to it and position your armor wherever you like. That was easy.
Are you taking the Mark VI challenge? Does a certain area have you stumped? Ask for assistance here and if able we will help you out.