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Master Chief's Mark VI Challenge

Updated on February 19, 2013

Ready to make your own Halo inspired Costume?

Get ready to take Master Chiefs Mark VI challenge and make your own Master Chief costume. If you've browsed the web on this topic chances are you've seen a few Halo costumes and maybe you would like to make some Halo spartan armor yourself. You've come to the right place soldier.

So what is the Mark VI challenge?

It's a puzzle in essence, like a foam 3-D only you paint and wear your finished armor project.

The first thing to do is to buy the basic patterns (not available until further notice)

Next you will visit the how to page HERE and follow steps 2 through 6. Remember to scale the patterns, they are sized for a 75" tall individual. After you print and cut out the shapes be sure to tape the multi-page shapes together prior to cutting out the foam.

Here on this page you will find all the detailed and up close reference photos of the original suit these patterns made and I've included any hints I can think of with the pictures. There is also a Questions & Answers section, where I post replies to questions about the patterns.

Remember, it's a puzzle that you are putting together and a challenge.

Good luck and happy armoring!

Master Chief Coloring Pages

October 21, 2012

Master Chief's Patterns - Samples. The real patterns are larger, 58 pages in total!

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Boot sample - toe cap & front sidesCod sample - butt plateForearm sample - as seen in tutorial videosMaster Chief helmet sampleShin sample - KneecapThigh sample - detailsTorso sample - shoulder box
Boot sample - toe cap & front sides
Boot sample - toe cap & front sides
Cod sample - butt plate
Cod sample - butt plate
Forearm sample - as seen in tutorial videos
Forearm sample - as seen in tutorial videos
Master Chief helmet sample
Master Chief helmet sample
Shin sample - Kneecap
Shin sample - Kneecap
Thigh sample - details
Thigh sample - details
Torso sample - shoulder box
Torso sample - shoulder box

Some of the patterns are more than 1 page in size, extend off the edge of the paper and will need to be taped together. They will have a thick dotted line to assist in achieving the correct placement. Other interior lines indicate details, or mountain/valley cuts, refer to the pictures for definition. Shapes marked as details are thin foam.

Download the Patterns HERE

WIP Report: A completed MK VI challenge - Armor crafted by 405th.com member FWBulldog

FWBulldog spent some time browsing the 405th.com forums and reviewing the various ways to make Halo armor before deciding to take the MK VI challenge. He scaled the armor down and made it for his son who was, needless to say, absofraginlutely thrilled to be the Master Chief for Halloween (as we call it). To read his WIP (work-in-progress) forum thread and see what has earned him the coveted "Geek Dad Hero" title, CLICK HERE

Some goodies on Amazon - That you might need

Epson LQ-590 Impact Printer (C11C558001)
Epson LQ-590 Impact Printer (C11C558001)

For projects like this we prefer the dot matrix printer. Set up properly you can load all your pages and go for a coffee. Come back with your scissors.

 
Ohaus Compact Dot Matrix Printer Paper For 11901-59
Ohaus Compact Dot Matrix Printer Paper For 11901-59

It's like an endless clip for your printer. Print on hero, print on.

 
Officemate 8-Inch Titanium Sissors with Soft Grip Handle, Gold Color Blades with Silver/Blue Handle (94120)
Officemate 8-Inch Titanium Sissors with Soft Grip Handle, Gold Color Blades with Silver/Blue Handle (94120)

Large scissors are great for the big shapes and the soft grip on these are a nice touch.

 
Fiskars 5 Inch Classic Blunt Tip Kids Scissors, Color Received May Vary
Fiskars 5 Inch Classic Blunt Tip Kids Scissors, Color Received May Vary

Don't laugh, I own a pink pair of these, I mean, light red and they work great for smaller cuts.

 

Seal the foam with heat - A veterans tip

Before I work with a piece of foam I seal it using the heatgun on high temperature. This has 2 nice advantages for the small amount of time invested.

1) When you cut heatsealed foam with a high temperature hotknife you get less shriviling and/or melting and are able to achieve crisp lines for a nicer finished product.

2) Heatsealed foam uses far less plasti dip paint to rubberize, saving you $$$ in the long run

The Heatgun - An important foam crafting tool

Black & Decker C800620 Heat Pro Deluxe Hot Air Tool Kit
Black & Decker C800620 Heat Pro Deluxe Hot Air Tool Kit

This kit has all the goodies you will need. Black & Decker is known for quality and anything with both Pro and Deluxe in it's title - has to be good.

 
Master Chief
Master Chief

Tester Suit Pictures

Below you will find high res pictures of our tester suit taken from multiple angles to show what each of your final pieces should look like, much like how you look at the box picture while you put a puzzle together. For the torso, helm and cod the patterns are for center pieces and one side, flip the side patterns over for the other side.

I've put any notes I could think of with each picture.

All photos on this page are original content and under copyright, you may view these pictures and download them for personal use, however, you may not redistribute or republish these pictures in any format, online or otherwise.

So be nice, and ask us first.

Armor Pictures - Entire suit overview

Click thumbnail to view full-size

Torso Pictures - Overview

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Bottom up view. The 6 black details can be burned in, or cut out in advance as that is where a 2mm foam strip to hide the ugly seam goes.The rear vent box can be solid black, customized or have a speaker grill, your choice.Rear torso has lots of detail to burn and cut in. Top horseshoe shape detail is 2mm foamThe black details are all burned in and painted blackInside view. I used lots of glue and some extra bits to make it extra sturdy and to maintain it's shape.
Bottom up view. The 6 black details can be burned in, or cut out in advance as that is where a 2mm foam strip to hide the ugly seam goes.
Bottom up view. The 6 black details can be burned in, or cut out in advance as that is where a 2mm foam strip to hide the ugly seam goes.
The rear vent box can be solid black, customized or have a speaker grill, your choice.
The rear vent box can be solid black, customized or have a speaker grill, your choice.
Rear torso has lots of detail to burn and cut in. Top horseshoe shape detail is 2mm foam
Rear torso has lots of detail to burn and cut in. Top horseshoe shape detail is 2mm foam
The black details are all burned in and painted black
The black details are all burned in and painted black
Inside view. I used lots of glue and some extra bits to make it extra sturdy and to maintain it's shape.
Inside view. I used lots of glue and some extra bits to make it extra sturdy and to maintain it's shape.

Torso Pictures II - Details

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Neck area has 2mm foam for raised areas and burned in details. For the side "wing shapes" inset 2mm for greater definition.Ab plate has 2mm foam details with a second smaller 2mm detail front and center.Here you can see the chest plate is raised 2mm along the bottomBuckle is burned in detail and hides a seamFront vent box can be foam painted black or a speaker grillSide details are burned in and hide a seam
Neck area has 2mm foam for raised areas and burned in details. For the side "wing shapes" inset 2mm for greater definition.
Neck area has 2mm foam for raised areas and burned in details. For the side "wing shapes" inset 2mm for greater definition.
Ab plate has 2mm foam details with a second smaller 2mm detail front and center.
Ab plate has 2mm foam details with a second smaller 2mm detail front and center.
Here you can see the chest plate is raised 2mm along the bottom
Here you can see the chest plate is raised 2mm along the bottom
Buckle is burned in detail and hides a seam
Buckle is burned in detail and hides a seam
Front vent box can be foam painted black or a speaker grill
Front vent box can be foam painted black or a speaker grill
Side details are burned in and hide a seam
Side details are burned in and hide a seam

Torso Pictures III - Back details

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Center detail is burned in with a larger bitThis detail can be achieved by cutting the shape in the foam and raising the edge 2mm, then burning in additional detail as neededTop detail can be cut and raised like the lower detail, or glue in 2mm overlapping foam
Center detail is burned in with a larger bit
Center detail is burned in with a larger bit
This detail can be achieved by cutting the shape in the foam and raising the edge 2mm, then burning in additional detail as needed
This detail can be achieved by cutting the shape in the foam and raising the edge 2mm, then burning in additional detail as needed
Top detail can be cut and raised like the lower detail, or glue in 2mm overlapping foam
Top detail can be cut and raised like the lower detail, or glue in 2mm overlapping foam

Helmet Pictures

Click thumbnail to view full-size

Helmet Pictures II - Up close

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Front and top of brim, where you see mountain folds is where I carved out the back of the foam so it would shape properlyFront and top of brim, where you see mountain folds is where I carved out the back of the foam so it would shape properlySide detail is burned in
Front and top of brim, where you see mountain folds is where I carved out the back of the foam so it would shape properly
Front and top of brim, where you see mountain folds is where I carved out the back of the foam so it would shape properly
Front and top of brim, where you see mountain folds is where I carved out the back of the foam so it would shape properly
Front and top of brim, where you see mountain folds is where I carved out the back of the foam so it would shape properly
Side detail is burned in
Side detail is burned in

Codpiece Pictures

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Front parts overlap. Front of groin cup mountain angle is 60 degreesRound the belt parts with the heatgun. Side of groin cup mountain angle is 45 degreesSide piece overlaps and is where you size it to fit your waistSide buckles are inset with added details burned inRear plate is raised 2mm for added definitionRivet holes are burned in with a round shape wood burning tipPieces overlap and a center detail of 2mm foam is addedInside frontBottom "thong" detail is optional. Definition is burned in
Front parts overlap. Front of groin cup mountain angle is 60 degrees
Front parts overlap. Front of groin cup mountain angle is 60 degrees
Round the belt parts with the heatgun. Side of groin cup mountain angle is 45 degrees
Round the belt parts with the heatgun. Side of groin cup mountain angle is 45 degrees
Side piece overlaps and is where you size it to fit your waist
Side piece overlaps and is where you size it to fit your waist
Side buckles are inset with added details burned in
Side buckles are inset with added details burned in
Rear plate is raised 2mm for added definition
Rear plate is raised 2mm for added definition
Rivet holes are burned in with a round shape wood burning tip
Rivet holes are burned in with a round shape wood burning tip
Pieces overlap and a center detail of 2mm foam is added
Pieces overlap and a center detail of 2mm foam is added
Inside front
Inside front
Bottom "thong" detail is optional. Definition is burned in
Bottom "thong" detail is optional. Definition is burned in

Shoulder Pictures

Click thumbnail to view full-size
The shoulder parts mostly overlapFor the upper guard plate I did mountain cuts at a 60 degree angle and inset the top & center piece 2mm for added definitionUse the heatgun to shape this part. The detail is 2mm foam.Pieces overlapUse the heatgun on the bicep partPieces overlapInside showing overlapsTop viewInside bottom view
The shoulder parts mostly overlap
The shoulder parts mostly overlap
For the upper guard plate I did mountain cuts at a 60 degree angle and inset the top & center piece 2mm for added definition
For the upper guard plate I did mountain cuts at a 60 degree angle and inset the top & center piece 2mm for added definition
Use the heatgun to shape this part. The detail is 2mm foam.
Use the heatgun to shape this part. The detail is 2mm foam.
Pieces overlap
Pieces overlap
Use the heatgun on the bicep part
Use the heatgun on the bicep part
Pieces overlap
Pieces overlap
Inside showing overlaps
Inside showing overlaps
Top view
Top view
Inside bottom view
Inside bottom view

Forearm Pictures

Click thumbnail to view full-size
The black center detail is inset 2mm for added definitionThe raised detail is done with 2mm foam and should cover the ugly seamThe elbow piece is raised 2mm for increased definitionThe top of the elbow has a 2mm foam strip added for definitionSmall detail on the sides of the wrist are 2mm foamThe black lines can be painted on or burned in for added definitionInside top view. Use soft foam for padding
The black center detail is inset 2mm for added definition
The black center detail is inset 2mm for added definition
The raised detail is done with 2mm foam and should cover the ugly seam
The raised detail is done with 2mm foam and should cover the ugly seam
The elbow piece is raised 2mm for increased definition
The elbow piece is raised 2mm for increased definition
The top of the elbow has a 2mm foam strip added for definition
The top of the elbow has a 2mm foam strip added for definition
Small detail on the sides of the wrist are 2mm foam
Small detail on the sides of the wrist are 2mm foam
The black lines can be painted on or burned in for added definition
The black lines can be painted on or burned in for added definition
Inside top view. Use soft foam for padding
Inside top view. Use soft foam for padding

Handplate Pictures

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Handplate is fairly simple, it's one main piece with the front "wings" attached. The center black detail is inset 2mm for added definition. The round details are burned inThe very front has a slight mountain cut for added definitionRear tabs are raised, either with a valley cut or with the heatgun.Here you can see the rear tabs raised. For the front side "wings" you can make 1 piece, cut it in half by the depth and use 1 for each side.
Handplate is fairly simple, it's one main piece with the front "wings" attached. The center black detail is inset 2mm for added definition. The round details are burned in
Handplate is fairly simple, it's one main piece with the front "wings" attached. The center black detail is inset 2mm for added definition. The round details are burned in
The very front has a slight mountain cut for added definition
The very front has a slight mountain cut for added definition
Rear tabs are raised, either with a valley cut or with the heatgun.
Rear tabs are raised, either with a valley cut or with the heatgun.
Here you can see the rear tabs raised. For the front side "wings" you can make 1 piece, cut it in half by the depth and use 1 for each side.
Here you can see the rear tabs raised. For the front side "wings" you can make 1 piece, cut it in half by the depth and use 1 for each side.

Thigh Pictures

Click thumbnail to view full-size
This is basically one large piece that you shape with the heatgun. The black detail in the center is inset 2mm at the bottom and 6mm at the topThe middle section is cut out and raised 4mmFrom this angle you can see the top is shaped outwards slightly using the heat gun. The top side and lower details are 2mm foamThe top center has a 2mm detail, and a further small square 2mm detail on top of that for added definitionThe top side details are 2mm foamCut the foam to your leg sizeCut the foam to your leg sizeThe 2mm foam detail hides the seamThe top center has a 2mm detail, and a further small square 2mm detail on top of that for added definitionTop narrow view
This is basically one large piece that you shape with the heatgun. The black detail in the center is inset 2mm at the bottom and 6mm at the top
This is basically one large piece that you shape with the heatgun. The black detail in the center is inset 2mm at the bottom and 6mm at the top
The middle section is cut out and raised 4mm
The middle section is cut out and raised 4mm
From this angle you can see the top is shaped outwards slightly using the heat gun. The top side and lower details are 2mm foam
From this angle you can see the top is shaped outwards slightly using the heat gun. The top side and lower details are 2mm foam
The top center has a 2mm detail, and a further small square 2mm detail on top of that for added definition
The top center has a 2mm detail, and a further small square 2mm detail on top of that for added definition
The top side details are 2mm foam
The top side details are 2mm foam
Cut the foam to your leg size
Cut the foam to your leg size
Cut the foam to your leg size
Cut the foam to your leg size
The 2mm foam detail hides the seam
The 2mm foam detail hides the seam
The top center has a 2mm detail, and a further small square 2mm detail on top of that for added definition
The top center has a 2mm detail, and a further small square 2mm detail on top of that for added definition
Top narrow view
Top narrow view

Inner Thigh

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This is the shape I used to complete the right inner thigh. Flip it over for the left side. Green lines are 3mm deep mountain cuts at 65 degree angle. You will need 3 for each side to layer them up with the topmost crafted from 3mm foam. The bottom cut does not have to be nice as the top of the next piece overlaps to the guidelines. Leave a little extra on each end to cut for custom sizing.

Shin Pictures - Overview

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Use a heatgun to get these parts roundBlack bottom detail is inset 2mm for added definitionBlack bottom detail is inset 2mm for added definitionUse a heatgun to get these parts round. Black lines are burned in detail, optionally they can be painted onFor the side I did a mountain cut 3/4 of the foam depth and 30 degree angleFor the side I did a mountain cut 3/4 of the foam depth and 30 degree angleFor the kneecap I did mountain cuts 3/4 of the foam depth and 45 degree angleUpper detail is done with 2mm foam and covers some of the ugly seams
Use a heatgun to get these parts round
Use a heatgun to get these parts round
Black bottom detail is inset 2mm for added definition
Black bottom detail is inset 2mm for added definition
Black bottom detail is inset 2mm for added definition
Black bottom detail is inset 2mm for added definition
Use a heatgun to get these parts round. Black lines are burned in detail, optionally they can be painted on
Use a heatgun to get these parts round. Black lines are burned in detail, optionally they can be painted on
For the side I did a mountain cut 3/4 of the foam depth and 30 degree angle
For the side I did a mountain cut 3/4 of the foam depth and 30 degree angle
For the side I did a mountain cut 3/4 of the foam depth and 30 degree angle
For the side I did a mountain cut 3/4 of the foam depth and 30 degree angle
For the kneecap I did mountain cuts 3/4 of the foam depth and 45 degree angle
For the kneecap I did mountain cuts 3/4 of the foam depth and 45 degree angle
Upper detail is done with 2mm foam and covers some of the ugly seams
Upper detail is done with 2mm foam and covers some of the ugly seams

Shin Pictures II - Details

Click thumbnail to view full-size
The lower detail can be done with 2mm foam or cut out and raised 2mm. Black lines are burned in detailUnder the kneecap, raised 2mm for added definitionAchilles protector. The black triangle shape is inset 2mm at the long points and the full foam depth at the narrow top section.Inside bottom view. Padding is soft foamieInside top view. Padding is soft foamie
The lower detail can be done with 2mm foam or cut out and raised 2mm. Black lines are burned in detail
The lower detail can be done with 2mm foam or cut out and raised 2mm. Black lines are burned in detail
Under the kneecap, raised 2mm for added definition
Under the kneecap, raised 2mm for added definition
Achilles protector. The black triangle shape is inset 2mm at the long points and the full foam depth at the narrow top section.
Achilles protector. The black triangle shape is inset 2mm at the long points and the full foam depth at the narrow top section.
Inside bottom view. Padding is soft foamie
Inside bottom view. Padding is soft foamie
Inside top view. Padding is soft foamie
Inside top view. Padding is soft foamie

Boot Pictures

Click thumbnail to view full-size
Middle black section is inset 2mm for added definitionInside viewOutside viewToecap is raised 2mm for added definitionThe upper heel is inset 2mm on the lower heel and 2mm foam is added for the definitionPut an extra cut on the front of the toecap cut-out and fold it in and under.
Middle black section is inset 2mm for added definition
Middle black section is inset 2mm for added definition
Inside view
Inside view
Outside view
Outside view
Toecap is raised 2mm for added definition
Toecap is raised 2mm for added definition
The upper heel is inset 2mm on the lower heel and 2mm foam is added for the definition
The upper heel is inset 2mm on the lower heel and 2mm foam is added for the definition
Put an extra cut on the front of the toecap cut-out and fold it in and under.
Put an extra cut on the front of the toecap cut-out and fold it in and under.

Questions & Answers

Q: How do I scale the patterns?

A: The patterns are sized for 75" height. To scale the jpg first calculate your height as a % of 75", then load the jpg into a picture manager that allows you to re-size by % (such as office picture manager) and reduce the size accordingly. Some parts are meant to be large and padded, like the forearms, boots and shins and others can be custom fit tighter, like the cod, thighs and biceps simply by cutting the foam "band" part to match your limb size. You can also assemble the paper pattern with tape prior to cutting your foam to be sure you are happy with the size. The thigh is a good piece to use for scaling.

Q: On the helmet patterns, I am a little confused with the pieces. I cannot make out where the larger odd-looking pieces go and am having trouble with pages 1 and 2.

A: On helm6 there is a shape marked "helm detail" and is cut from 3mm foam, 1 for each side. This detail serves to give you a raised surface for 3mm black definition ridges and also covers the ugly seams on the rounded side shape on helm2 (the funny jagged shape on the right of the page) You would put this detail on last, after you are happy with the helmets final shape.

On helm1 the bottom piece is the top and back center strip. The center piece is a leftside/rightside part so you will need to cut one shape, flip the pattern over and cut another. These 2 parts join together at the narrow end to form the back of the helm. The last odd shaped part on helm1 is the cheek area. On page 2 the piece on the left is the bottom back neck piece and has a guideline on the left to line it up nice. The center piece is another leftside/rightside piece and is for under the helmet brim. Lastly the piece on the right is a leftside/rightside piece and is for the rounded parts on the top of the helm.

Q: How do I stick the pattern to the foam prior to cutting with the hotknife?

A: To stick a pattern to the foam I use scotch tape or painters tape as they do not affect the foam surface when removed. I loop it to make a small double sided sticky rectangle and use 1 or more, depending on the size of the pattern. . The idea is not to stick every paper edge down, that will happen when you put the metal ruler on it, rather, you want to keep the pattern from shifting around.

Q: I have 5 pages of shapes for the cod, but either there's a page missing, or I'm just not understanding how it goes together. Can you please help me understand the cod piece and what fits where?

A: On page cod1 the large shape is a left-side/right-side shape. Print and cut it twice, flip one over and tape them together at the solid line. Then cut this shape from the foam, it will be the rear bands/buckles that the assplate on cod3 attaches to. The shape in the top right corner is for the sides, you will need to cut 2 of these as well. The other shape is a 3mm detail for the front.

On page cod4 the smaller shape is the front and center above the groin cup. You can draw this shape on a 11mm x 11mm foam square and use it as a guide to overlap the front-side shapes found on cod4 and cod5.

Armorers notes:

When I make a helmet I start at the top first and get the dome shape, then I do the back to get the bucket shape and lastly I shape the front and use the visor to help get the final shape. I use the heatgun a lot for a helmet and once I am happy with the shape I put lots of glue on the inside to hold it securely.

The back of the torso can be confusing, hopefully this diagram will help

Undersuit

The under-suit for your Halo armor should be black, cover all your exposed flesh and made of a breathable material to help keep the heat down. Tight fitting black polyester sports wear and spandex work well and Nylon is good too, however, Nylon can be a little "baggy" and you may not achieve your desired look. Nylon also does nothing for sweat dissipation. And of course good ol' plain black ninja jammies always look good, regardless of material. A black Morphsuit is ideal.

You will need to sew some Velcro patches to the under-suit for the shoulders and thighs and glue some foam padding inside the forearms, shins and possibly boots and helmet for a custom fit. The torso portion that sits on your shoulders can also be padded for extra comfort.

Undersuit velcro and padding

Undersuit Goodies - That you might need

Schampa CoolSkin Balaclava (Black, One Size)
Schampa CoolSkin Balaclava (Black, One Size)

This item has rave reviews.

Customer review on Amazon - Do you want a thicker balaclava for the cooler summer weather but not too thick so you sweat too much? Do you want to finish your commando or ninja outfit? Do you want the best balaclava on Amazon? If so, then this balaclava is for you. This balaclava wicks away sweat very well if worn under a helmet or used in the field/sporting activities. The amount of neck coverage is fantastic, it covers well in the cool weather and stays put in the sun under your coat. The cheaper brands,though you get what you pay for, fit like a tube sock... all sloppy. This balaclava fits like it was custom made, the neck is tapered and fits snug but not tight but the area around your eyes and nose seals the deal. I have worn this with sunglasses, under a helmet, with goggles, under a boonie hat thru a zombie shoot outside (targets), and in all types of weather but the snow. Not once was my vision ever inhibited by the balaclava, the band around the opening even acts like a sweatband when it is really toasty out. Most balaclava's will start to slide off of your nose because they are stretching out, this one did not. I have washed it about 6 times and it shrunk just a bit, but did not alter the performance at all. I would recommend this balaclava to anyone.

 
VELCRO Brand - Industrial Strength Tape 4" x 2" Strips, 2 Sets - Black
VELCRO Brand - Industrial Strength Tape 4" x 2" Strips, 2 Sets - Black

One pack for the shoulders and another for the thighs. Optionally you can put on your ninja jammies and go raid the kids shoe closet for Velcro.

 

Black Morphsuit - The one stop shop of undersuits

Black Morphsuit | L
Black Morphsuit | L

This covers all your bases, it is not baggy, it's black, it covers all your skin and is breathable too. Sew the velcro patches directly to it and position your armor wherever you like. That was easy.

 

Are you taking the Mark VI challenge? Does a certain area have you stumped? Ask for assistance here and if able we will help you out.

Ask the Gamemaster - For some divine assistance

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    • profile image

      BillyBobJoe009 12 months ago

      what did you use for the vizor

    • profile image

      Taylor W. 21 months ago

      Hello! I'm a first time builder and am trying to figure out how to build my helmet. How should I go about it? I'm using EVA foam for the rest of the armor. Thanks!

    • profile image

      tmac 2 years ago

      I'm starting with the forearms but can't figure out which pages get taped together help please

    • darciefrench profile image

      Darcie French 3 years ago from BC Canada

      HI Kev, have you done anything to keep your hubs up here on HUbpages?

    • profile image

      Lowa 3 years ago

      Hello, i want to realize this armor, but I don't find the instructions to complete the patterns :x

      Thanks !

    • profile image

      Bianca 3 years ago

      How many EVA foam did you use to make the whole armour, including the helmet?

    • profile image

      Confused 3 years ago

      So, I am looking at these templates, scaled them down and they're still faaaar too large. I am curious as to what size of paper you used as the 'base' Unfortunately depending on the dpi you made your jpg/plotted with, it will affect the size. PDF's are a much better choice for things like this. That said, thank you so much, but still having a hell of a time. Scaled down to 70% for my son, and it ended up being large enough to fit someone 15' tall. So that didn't seem right. As it stands, the jpg's base size fit on a 24"x 18" sheet of paper. I am not sure that was your original intention?

    • profile image

      Zyra 3 years ago

      Okay now i have the foam and the patterns but no idea how they fit together ^^'

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      @anonymous: you'll need about program call Winraw to unzip these types of files. just go to google and type in winraw. MAKE SURE YOU DOWNLOAD THE FREE VERSION. if you download the free one you will get a short term full version but it doesn't matter because when it tells you to buy the real version because you can just click buy later or something and then go about your merry way.

    • LongShot-X profile image
      Author

      LongShot-X 4 years ago

      @anonymous: Correct. That file IS a compressed folder. You have to uncompress it and then open it up with pepakura designer.

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      Hi, I downloaded the Master Chief foam templates in that link below the samples, and it doesn't let me print the patterns out. It says it's a "compressed/zipped folder". It doesn't let me do anything except view it. I was wondering if I'm supposed to do something, or what. Thanks.

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      @anonymous: The link is on this page and it is working.

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      Just wondering if the files are still available, as i can't find links anywhere.

    • profile image

      anonymous 5 years ago

      Do you think that it is remotely possible for me, a 12 year old boy, to make a budget version of this with a maximum of $75 dollars? I am pretty skilled at making costumes (I won my church's Halloween costume contest 2 times in a row with home-made costumes).

    • squidoopets profile image

      Darcie French 5 years ago from Abbotsford, BC

      Just reminiscing about what an amazing job you guys did. Here to refresh the angel blessing.

    • profile image

      anonymous 5 years ago

      Hello, i would like to take the challenge to.. but i could not found the link to download the foam pattern. Or i must ask first?

      Please waiting your reply sir. Thank You

    • profile image

      Mechaman 5 years ago

      Hello, i'd like to take on the challenge but the link to the basic patterns are down.. :(

      is there any other way i can get them?

    • profile image

      anonymous 5 years ago

      Does anyone know where i can get the basic patterns ???

    • profile image

      mean11man 5 years ago

      Can some one help me!!

      I am really new to all of this.

      I need to know how to change the size of the pieces to my width and hight

      or if someone could do it for me and I'll just send you my height etc.

    • LongShot-X profile image
      Author

      LongShot-X 5 years ago

      @anonymous: Oppps... I forgot to take that link down.

      email me at crafters@longshot-x.com and I'll email you the patterns.

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      Website for the patterns says its frozen. Any way to get the patterns another way?

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      hi im having an issue with getting the boot together its not wanting to hold its shape at all how hot are you getting the foam when to heat gun it

      thank you sharpshooter

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      Did you use the light primer or dark primer you have listed on the supplies list before painting the armor?

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      @davidangel: im 6 foot and the scaling is kinda weird just to recheck the math im scaling down 1.75% is this rite

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      davidangel 6 years ago

      @anonymous: We used the grey primer to go with the oregano satin paint. We have also been getting good results on some of our newer creations by using titanium silver or hammererd metal silver as a base coat. The hammered gives it texture and deceives the eye into thinking it is metal, you can see pictures and links to more of the paints that we use here -> www.squidoo.com/how-to-make-halo-helmets

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      davidangel 6 years ago

      @anonymous: You are most welcome and thank you for the feedback. I know this is a tough challenge and will continue to provide directions as best I can for the purchased patterns.

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      @davidangel: I like this info. Your file is outstanding. This kind of info for each of the sections would be nice on the purchased patterns. I like the detail you put on the chest piece update also. Thanks for the hard work.

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      davidangel 6 years ago

      @anonymous: For the piece on page1 you will need to cut a 45o angle along the top and bottom edges, as well as a 45o angle on the edges of the parts they join to. You can send pictures with questions directly to me at halo.armorer@gmail.com

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      I'm having trouble getting some of the helmet side pieces put together.I'm trying to connect the helm1 (second piece from bottom) to the piece on page helm4. Does the piece on helm4 go behind the piece helm1 or does it go on top/bottom? Or do I need to cut an angle along the edge? I have example pictures but I can't find where to upload them.

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      davidangel 6 years ago

      @anonymous: The torso can be a little confusing, I've added a diagram to help out in the Q&A section above.

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      Thanks for the help with the thight. I'm struggling with the torso. I see how torso14 connects to 15, but what connects to the back/top of torso 14?? Just behind the neck, in between the vent boxes? Which template is that?

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      davidangel 6 years ago

      @anonymous: There are a handful of tutorial videos on the how-to pages www.squidoo.com/how-to-make-halo-armor and www.squidoo.com/how-to-make-halo-weapons.

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      davidangel 6 years ago

      @anonymous: The inside strap is part of the pattern, page 1, 2, 3 and 4 combine to give you the main shape. First cut the shape, next cut out the center area marked with blue and raise it up 6mm and use lots of hotglue, you want it to be a strong bond for the next step. Lastly use the heatgun to round the edges and band areas until it fits around your thigh nicely, then cut the bands to the correct size for a perfect fit. The small 3mm detail on page6 will cover and strengthen this seam. The shape on page7 is a guide for burning in detail lines and to get the correct placement for the inset shape in the center. This shape is the small one on page5, use it to mark the shape on the foam, then cut it out and inset it 2mm at the bottom and 6mm at the top. The rest are 3mm details.

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      I've printed out the thigh templates, and it's clear that the strap that goes around the inside of the thigh does not match what's in the images. Thigh3 and thigh4 don't have any of the angles on the inside, as shown in the pics. Am I missing a page?

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      Bleepin' cool man

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      This site would be even more helpful if there was a video of you making the armor

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      @davidangel: Thank you very much that cleared up a lot of questions.

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      davidangel 6 years ago

      @anonymous: Torso4 has the lower center piece and the detail shapes for it. Torso3 has the upper center piece that connects to the lower center piece. Torso3 also has the details for the upper center and in the top left corner is the lower light detail that will fit into the shape on torso9. Torso9 and torso8 connect at the thick dashed line and that whole part should connect to the 2 center parts. Remember the non-centerline patterns are for 1 side only, you need to flip it over to have both sides. Torso9 and 8 connect to the vent boxes. Vent box pattern is on torso10, 11 and 12, and again is only for 1 vent box, flip it over to make the other side. Torso 14 is another double pattern and connects to its opposite side at the back neck area. This connects to the top of your back section and torso6 has the thin part to complete the neck shape. The horseshoe shape on torso6 is a thin crafting foam detail. Hope this helps.

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      I'm having some issues with finding the right pieces for the chest patterns. I'm stumped on how to make the back of the neck and the middle and lower back areas. Can you please tell me what pieces on what pages make up these areas? Thanks

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      Ahhh.. So COOL lens of you. I really like all you've presented here. Another great work.. Tweeted to all my fans for letting them here for Halo costume :) Have a wonderful time.. David ;)

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      chrispell017 7 years ago

      cool lens! nice job

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      davidangel 7 years ago

      @anonymous: Study the reference pictures for the part you are making. Next use a heatgun to shape the part. I heat up the back of the foam first to get the general shape, then I do the front to get the exact shape. In some areas you will need to cut out the back of the foam to get definition lines and the correct shape. Refer to the tutorial videos on the How to make Halo armor lens

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      anonymous 7 years ago

      How do you get the rights shapes or curves for the armor?

    working