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Maleficent Movie Makeup, Eyes and Nails

Updated on December 2, 2014

Make Yourself up Like Angelina Jolie's Maleficent

Angelina Jolie's take on Maleficent involved many hours of makeup to get her to achieve this new iconic look for this misunderstood fairy queen.

From the prosthetic cheekbones, inspired by Lady Gaga, and her creepy contact lenses, hand painted by contact lens artist Cristina Patterson, down to her uniquely colored nails, inspired by Christian Louboutin, Angelina Jolie worked with her own personal stylist Toni G and a design team to create a character that is beautiful and terrifying at the same time.

I've been inspired by this new version of Maleficent to create my own version of the costume to wear at Disneyland Halloween. After looking at how to make her horns and the various different views of her costumes, I have also figured out the details of Maleficent's unique makeup and under mani nails.

Read on to find out more about recreating this new look for Angelina's Maleficent.

Angelina Jolie's Maleficent from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Maleficent's Face - The Look of Evil or Beauty?

Maleficent from Disney's Maleficent
Maleficent from Disney's Maleficent

Maleficent from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Poll on Maleficent's Look

Terrifying or Beautiful

See results

Maleficent Lipglass on Amazon

Angelina Jolie's stylist, Toni G., estimated they used three tubes of this special color of MAC’s Pro Longwear Lipglass during the filming of the movie.

MAC Disney Maleficent Pro Longwear Lipglass ANTHURIUM
MAC Disney Maleficent Pro Longwear Lipglass ANTHURIUM

Wear Anthurium lipglass, the official color of Maleficent's lips.

 

Angelina Jolie's Maleficent Makeup

There are several different aspects of the makeup used to create this unique fairy queen look.

  1. Makeup
  2. Eyes
  3. Lipstick
  4. Nails
  5. Prosthetic Cheekbones
  6. Pointed Molars

Maleficent Face Makeup

Maleficent - Casting a Spell

Maleficent from Disney
Maleficent from Disney

Angelina Jolie's Maleficent from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Maleficent from Disney
Maleficent from Disney

Recreating Maleficent's Face Makeup

The makeup team for Maleficent wanted her to be beautiful and terrifying at the same time, but not too creature-like.

Instead of going with the traditional green skin seen in the cartoon version (and popularized more recently by Elphaba in "Wicked") they opted for normal to white skin, enhanced green contact lenses and bright red lipstick.

In the stylized promotional photo's and posters done by Mert and Markus Angelina's skin is so pale it is white.

Throughout most of the movie her skin is a normal to pale color. The only time she even hints at being green in this file is during the Christening scene when she takes on a green hue from the green flames as she casts the curse.

Angelina's make up artist, Toni G use a MAC Select Cover Concealer applied with a wet sponge in a color that was lighter than Angelina's natural skin tone to get that pale effect.

The make up team did not use blush, but did use contouring or a sculpting powder (MAC Sculpting Powder) to help accentuate her prosthetic enhanced cheekbones and according to Moviefone News then use the normal beauty principle of highlighting "the upside down triangle under the eyes to the outside part of the cheeks to the bottom of the nose."

Maleficent's Face from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Maleficent Makeup - Video Tutorials

There are a lot of amazing video tutorials showing how to get the look of Disney's favorite evil fairy. Here are just a few of the tutorials for getting that Angelia Jolie-inspired evil fairy look.

MAC Face Makeup on Amazon

MAC Disney Maleficent Beauty Powder NATURAL
MAC Disney Maleficent Beauty Powder NATURAL

Use the beauty powder as a base for the face makeup.

 
MAC Disney Maleficent Sculpting Powder SCULPT
MAC Disney Maleficent Sculpting Powder SCULPT

Use the sculpting powder to create definition and facial contours.

 

Maleficent MAC Collection

Available on Amazon
Available on Amazon

MAC Disney Maleficent Collection

MAC's limited color edition Maleficent Collection was developed for Disney with the help of Toni G Angelina Jolie's personal makeup artist Toni G.

This special collection comes with Maleficent's fairy wings on the packaging and is guaranteed "to delight the most demanding of dark sorceresses." The collection consists of:

  • Eye shadow kit
  • Eye liner
  • Eye brows
  • Eye lashes
  • Lipglass
  • Lip pencil
  • Lipstick
  • Beauty powder
  • Prime highlighter
  • Sculpting powder
  • Nail Lacquer
With the collection (or at least the colors of the collection once the limited-edition runs out) you can recreate this beautiful and terrifying new iconic look for yourself.

MAC Sculpting Powder in Sculpt available on Amazon

Recreating the Maleficent Look with the MAC Line

To recreate the look from the MAC Collection they recommend using the following MAC products:

  1. Skin

    The pale skin was created using a primer followed by a concealer, foundation (lighter than her normal skin color) and powder. Blush, contouring and highlighting was provided by the MAC Sculpt Sculpting Powder.

    Concealer - Mineralized Concealer

    Foundation - SPF 15 Matchmaster Foundation

    Powder - Natural Beauty Powder

    Blush, Contour and Highlighting - Sculpt Sculpting Powder

  2. Eyebrows

    The arched eyebrows were shaped using an eyebrow tool and enhanced with eye shadow.

    Eyebrow Tool - Fling Eye Brows

    Eye shadow - Coquette Eye Shadow

  3. Eyes

    The eyelids were shadowed and highlighted using the eye shadow kit. On the brow a vanilla pigment and the goldmine color were used as highlights. A vex (nude) color was used over the eyelid and in the crease area longwear paint pot in groundwork (brown) along with the ground brown and carbon eye shadows.

    Eyeshadow - Maleficent Eye Shadow x 4

    Brow Highlight - Vanilla pigment, Eye Shadow (Goldmine)

    Eyelid - Vex Eye Shadow

    Crease - Groundwork Pro Longwear Paint Pot, Eye Shadow (Ground Brown and Carbon)

    Eye liner was applied and the lower lids were enhanced using the carbon eye shadow, while Fascinating Eye Kohl was applied to the waterline.

    Liner - Rapidblack Penultimate Eye Liner, Eye Shadow (Carbon on lower), Fascinating Eye Kohl (waterline)

  4. Eyelashes

    The eyelashes were enhanced using false eyelashes, then further volumized and defined with an intensely black carbon pigment mascara.

    Mascara - Extended Play Gigablack Lash

    Lashes - MAC Disney 30 Lashes

  5. Lips

    The deep red lip look was created using a primer followed by a pencil, lipstick and lipgloss (lipglass):

    Pencil - Kiss me Quick Lip Pencil

    Lipstick - True Love's Kiss Lipstick

    Gloss - Anthurium Pro Longwear Lipglass

Maleficent's Eye Makeup

Maleficent's Eyes

Maleficent from Disney
Maleficent from Disney

Angelina Jolie's Eyes as Maleficent from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Maleficent Eye Makeup from MAC on Amazon

The four eye colors used to create Angelina's eye look are from MAC:

  • Ground Brown Dirty deep brown - Matte
  • Concrete Muted taupe brown -Satin
  • Carbon Intense black - Matte
  • Goldmine Intense gold with shimmer - Shimmer
Details on how the colors are applied are in the section above this one.


MAC Maleficent: Eye Shadow x4
MAC Maleficent: Eye Shadow x4

Use the four eye colors to recreate the golden glimmer eye.

 
MAC Disney Maleficent False Lash #36
MAC Disney Maleficent False Lash #36

Add on the false eyelashes to create the long, thick lash look.

 
MAC In Extreme Dimension Lash Mascara
MAC In Extreme Dimension Lash Mascara

Finish off the lashes with the extreme dimension mascara to add volume and dimension to your lashes.

 

Maleficent Eye Brow Pencil on Amazon

MAC Disney Maleficent Eye Brows FLING
MAC Disney Maleficent Eye Brows FLING

Define your eyebrows with the FLING colored pencil (also available as a regular pencil).

 

Maleficent's Goat-Inspired Contact Lenses

Maleficent from Disney
Maleficent from Disney

Angelina Jolie’s with Goat-inspired Contact Lenses from Disney’s Maleficent

Goat by Rusty Clark and Labradorite by Gregory Phillips
Goat by Rusty Clark and Labradorite by Gregory Phillips

Eyes Inspired by Goats and a Rock (Labradorite)

Angelina's makeup/special effects team on Maleficent—special-effects makeup artist Rick Baker, her own personal makeup artist Toni G and contact lens artist Cristina Patterson—worked to create the unique animal and iridescent (technically labradorescence) for the contact lenses worn in the film.

The team looked at goats to help create the creepy, sinister look for the evil fairy. With their have horizontal, slit-shaped, rectangular pupils (seen to the right) and very pale iris (yellow brown or blue), looking at a goat can be a bit alarming and unsettling, most likely the effect they were trying to achieve with Maleficent (at least in her evil stage). There are perhaps hints of a horizontal pupil in the movie stills above, but most of the alarming results seem to be coming from the light coloring of the irises of the eyes.

According to Fashionista, Toni G was inspired by the metallic colors of the labradorite stone (seen to the right) and the iridescent play of colors (technically labradorescence) seen when holding the stone. (It looks a lot like an oil spill). The labradorite colors found their way into the makeup shadows, the staff and also into the contact lenses.

Angelina's contact lenses were hand painted by contact lens artist Cristina Patterson, bringing in colors from labradorite. She worked with the colors already in Angelina's eyes, but incorporated colors from the laboradorite.

According to a Wired Interview to make these menacing contacts Patterson incorporated "at least four blues, three greens, two oranges, and one pink" when painting the lenses.

Light green-yellow contacts are likely to become a Halloween and cosplay trend, but I am not sure about the (horizontal) goat eye.

Goat Eye by Rusty Clark. Used under a Creative Commons License.

Labradorite Mineral by Gregory Phillips. Used under a GNU Free Documentation License.

Maleficent's Lipstick

Maleficent's Different Lip Looks

Maleficent from Disney
Maleficent from Disney

Maleficent Lips in different colors from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Maleficent from Disney
Maleficent from Disney

Recreating Maleficent's Smile

If you look at the lipstick you notice it is a blueish-red lipstick, without a hit of orange or pink. The color they chose to use was MAC’s Pro Longwear Lipglass in Anthurium.

Angelina's personal stylist, Toni G., estimated they used three tubes of the Anthurium color during the entire filming of the movie to keep the dark fairy's lips a deep shade of red.

The red lipstick makes her white teeth stand out even more.

In addition to her blood red lipstick, perhaps to make the character a bit more like a creature they applied tooth veneers to create sharp, pointed bicuspid molars.

(You can see these pointed teeth when she smiles in the photo near the bottom of this page).

Note: As part of the MAC Maleficent collection created for the movie, a lipstick with the blue undertones, called "True Love's Kiss." This lipstick puts to shame the red, red rose. To recreate the look according to their directions the lipstick is applied first, then the lipglass.

Maleficent Lip from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Anthurium is the lip color used for Maleficent's red lips.

MAC's Lip Makeup on Amazon

MAC Disney Maleficent Pro Longwear Lipglass ANTHURIUM
MAC Disney Maleficent Pro Longwear Lipglass ANTHURIUM

Anthurium was the color used for Angelina's lips, not an orange, not a pink but a true red.

 
MAC Disney Maleficent Pro Longwear Lip Pencil KISS ME QUICK
MAC Disney Maleficent Pro Longwear Lip Pencil KISS ME QUICK

Use the lip pencil in the color of Kiss me Quick to help line and define the lips.

 
DISNEY MALEFICENT MAC AMPLIFIELD CREME LIPSTICK - TRUE LOVE'S KISS
DISNEY MALEFICENT MAC AMPLIFIELD CREME LIPSTICK - TRUE LOVE'S KISS

MAC's lipstick color True Love's Kiss was released for the Maleficent movie.

The very popular color is a red that will "shame the red, red rose."

 

MAC Anthurium Lipglass on eBay

The official lip color of Maleficent's deep red lips.

True Love's Kiss MAC Lipstick on eBay

The deep red lipstick inspired by the film from MAC. Available for a limited time.

Maleficent Movie Nails

Maleficent's Different Nail Looks

Maleficent from Disney
Maleficent from Disney

Maleficent's Nails from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Poll on Maleficent's Nails

What should the name be of Maleficent's Bone and Red Nails?

See results
Maleficent's Nails
Maleficent's Nails

Recreating Maleficent Nail Look

Maleficent's Nails look to have been inspired by Adele's Christian Louboutin* two color (upper and underneath) manicure that she sported at the 2012 Grammys.

While Adele's look was silver glittery polish on top and bright red underneath, Angelina Jolie has a pearlescent bone colored top with bright red underneath.

Maleficent's two-colored nails are revealed during Aurora's Christening, the moment that she goes over to the dark side.

Recreating this unique two color nail look is fairly simple:

  • 1. Using artificial nails, place an curved sticker midway on the bottom of the nail, where you want the underside polish to stop. Repeat 9 more times. (See the Italian video below)
  • 2. Paint the underside of the nail first with the lighter color (white or bone). Let it dry. Repeat 9 more times.
  • 3. Paint the underside of the nail again with the red (or whatever other color you might want to see). Let it dry. Repeat 9 times.
  • 4. Glue the nails in place. Shape nails into points using clippers and nail file. Repeat 9 more times.
  • 5. Paint the top of the nails with the bone color (MAC's Uninvited). Add a top coat to finish. Repeat 9 more times.

Three MAC nail lacquers were created for the movie by Angelina's make up artist Toni G, Nocturnelle, Flaming Rose and Uninvited, which are available as limited editions.

*The traditional Louboutin look is based on the iconic shoes with black on top and red underneath.

Maleficent's Nails from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

The Flip-Side Mani

Blinging out the underside of one's nails is one of the new nails trends, perhaps inspired by Maleficent's nails.

Nocturnelle, Flaming Rose and Uninvited are the Nail Colors.

MAC Uninvited - Nude or Bone

MAC Disney Maleficent Nail Lacquer UNINVITED
MAC Disney Maleficent Nail Lacquer UNINVITED

This nude or bone colored nail lacquer is used on the top of the nail.

 

MAC Nocturnelle - Black

MAC Disney Maleficent Nail Lacquer NOCTURNELLE
MAC Disney Maleficent Nail Lacquer NOCTURNELLE

Black nail lacquer is used on the bottom or underside of the nail.

 

Angelina's Nails Go Black for the Premieres

In looking through the movie stills of Angelina's hands, I wasn't able to find any that had her nails painted black on the underside which was reported in some of the reviews of the makeup for the movie.

It does look like the Nocturnelle lacquer (black) is finding it's way to some of the Maleficent Premieres.

At both the Hollywood and in China Angelina can be seen wearing a black-on-black manicure (black top with black underneath) in place of the red (Flaming Rose) seen in the movie.

This is a variation on the Louboutin Nail (named after the iconic red-soled shoes) or as USA today is calling it an Under Mani.

I think this is a new (or reinvented) manicure look is going to catch on and be very popular, both with the red and the under color (mani) as well as others.

Maleficent Nail Design - Video Tutorial

Maleficent Movie Nails - Video Tutorials

Recreate Maleficent's two color nails from the movie with bone on top and red underneath.

MAC Nail Lacquer for Maleficent on Amazon

The three colors of nail lacquer used to create the nails for the movie.

MAC Disney Maleficent Nail Lacquer FLAMING ROSE
MAC Disney Maleficent Nail Lacquer FLAMING ROSE

Flaming Rose lacque, a deep red, is used on the underside of the nails for the Christening scene.

 

Artificial Nails on Amazon

EFT 500pcs Clear Full Cover Fake Nail Tips + Box
EFT 500pcs Clear Full Cover Fake Nail Tips + Box

If you want to use artificial nails which may be easier for creating and shaping the nails, this set of 500 offers an abundance of nail sizes and tips in a handy box to keep them sorted.

 

Nail Polish on Amazon

Recreate the nail look for less using e.l.f. and Essie brands.

e.l.f. Nail Polish, Nude, 0.34 Fluid Ounce
e.l.f. Nail Polish, Nude, 0.34 Fluid Ounce

Nude (or bone colored) nail polish for the top.

 
e.l.f. Nail Polish, Smokin Hot, 0.34 Fluid Ounce
e.l.f. Nail Polish, Smokin Hot, 0.34 Fluid Ounce

Red (Smokin hot) nail polish for underneath the nail for the Christening scene.

 

Maleficent's Prosthetic Cheeks and Pointed Molars

Maleficent's cheekbones were inspired by Lady Gaga's facial bones from the "Born this Way" video.

Initially Angelina wanted to try to create an effect that was a bit like an animal her own facial bones protruding from her forehead, but the special effects makeup artist Arjen Tuiten and her personal makeup artist Toni G eventually came up with the iconic look that you see now.

In addition to her kudu/antelope/goat like horns, she also wore prosthetic on her cheeks, a bit on her nose and her pointed ears. According to makeup effects designer Rick Baker the prosthetic pieces were less than a quarter of an inch at their thickest parts, so they just enhanced or defined her normal features.

The easiest way to create prosthetic facial bones is to create a clay mold and then build up liquid latex over it, layer upon layer leaving the latex to dry completely in between. Or you can just stick to facial contouring using makeup.

If you look at the image to the left you can see that she has sharp, pointed bicuspid molars. Most of the tooth veneers now are to recreate vampire fangs, not bicuspid molars. Perhaps some will be released in time for Halloween.

Maleficent's Prosthetic Cheekbones and Pointed Molars from Disney's Maleficent on Facebook.

Prosthetic Cheekbones and Pointed Molars

Maleficent's Bones and Teeth from Disney
Maleficent's Bones and Teeth from Disney

Facial Bones - Video Tutorials

See a video demonstration on using a clay mold with liquid latex.

Liquid Latex on Amazon

Graftobian Liquid Latex Clear 2 oz
Graftobian Liquid Latex Clear 2 oz

Create your own prosthetic molds by using the clear liquid latex over a clay mold to build up prosthetic cheek bones.

Apply the finished latex prosthetics when you are ready to get dressed up, then put makeup on over it.

 

What do you think about this new look for Maleficent?

© 2014 Kirsti A. Dyer

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