"How To Install Drywall", Sheetrock Installation.
How to install drywall to the In-So-Fast Panel.
Sheetrock Installation Tips
The Invention of drywall had almost a large impact on building construction as the internet has on social networking. The internet has replaced expensive entertainment; replaceDrywareplacedexpensive gypsum walls. Drywall is cheaper than plaster because it can be installed quickly and requires less skilled labor.
Even so, professionals are continually devising new ways to put up walls board more quickly and easily. Here are some of them:
(1) Place board horizontally not vertically. horizontal or laid down , has 20% fewer joints than vertical, or stood up, drywall. A finished assembly of studs and laid down boards are more resistant to racking and movement, horizontal seams are easier to work with and less noticeable than vertical seams.
(2) Use the longest boards that you can possibly work with. Although more cumbersome , 12-14 feet boards makes for stronger and better walls. Unfortunately they can be difficult to carry into a room that are up a stairway. Sometime, for larger jobs, the supplier will deliver them and place them through a second story window with a cherry picker type of lift.
But if they can be maneuvered into a room, they have definite advantages. A 10 x 12 room finished with laid down with 12 -ft boards has no vertical seams except at the corners and only needs 264 linear -ft of tape. The same room finished with 8-ft boards stood up has eight non tapered joints (ones not able to take advantage of the factory tapering along the factory-cut sides of drywall sheets) and needs 308 linear feet of tape. In addition,non tapered edges shows a slight bulge of joint compound when finished, unlike tapered joints, which ends up completely flush to the surrounding board.
The projected savings of horizontal installation with 12- or 14-ft boards is 15 -24 percent of normal finishing costs.
(3) Use screws, not nails. Screws holds better, draw tighter, are easy to use on ceilings, and result in lower finishing costs than do nails. because screws have greater holding power , ceilings ceiling boards can be held with screws 12 inches apart; nails should be 7 inches apart. On walls, screws can be 16 inches apart; nails should be 8 inches apart. A contractor saves the equivalent of about $2/ board in labor cost using screws instead of nails. The best way to install screws is with a screw gun, but a hand drill with a $8 screwdriver attachment makes a good substitute. Note: In either new work or an old wall, if a screw or nail pops ( that is, its head work loose to protrude into the room), the best way to fix it is to drive it in firmly. Drive it in far enough to recess the drywall. if you think it is not firmly engaged into the stud behind, drive in another screw or nail an inch away that does get a solid grip, if the first nail or screw is loose, remove it, then spread compound over the recess.
(4) At ceilings, use floating angles.it is not recommended to use screws or nails at the intersection of walls and ceilings. Instead, use the top edge of the wall board to support the edge of the board on the ceiling. This system of floating angles saves time. it also males a joint that can flex with slight movement of the building, which is particularly important in older houses that may settle slightly. Generally, using floating angles on walls saves about 75 cents on each 4 x 8 sheet when the work is contracted.
Attach drywall to the ceiling first. We recommend the double nail technique; place screws in pairs 2 inches apart. This helps prevent screws from loosening and allows you to place the first screw about 16 inches away from the wall. If you put up screws singly, the first one should be 12 inches from the wall.
Install drywall on the walls so that the edges abut tightly against the board overhead. Place screws 8 inches down from the ceiling for single screws.
(5) Use drywall clips. This saves the cost of inside corner studs or additional framing at partition intersections. Often, in older houses with lath and plaster, there was only one inside corner stud -and perhaps a thin board to catch the lathe on one wall. Clips replace this board. Using clips makes a more crack resistant joint.
(6) Use fiberglass tape and special compound. Fiberglass tape comes in two types, self-adhesive, and staple-on. We recommend the self-adhesive type. Both kinds cost more than paper tape but save labor. The main reason for labor savings is no bedding coat is requires for fiberglass tape. Paper tape needs a bedding coat to adhere to the wall as the first step. Furthermore using fiberglass tape is simple. An unskilled worker or an amateur can apply it, working ahead of professionals that are spreading on the compound.
In addition, using just two coats of a special joint compound such as dura-bond low consistency with fiberglass tape creates a stronger joint than does use three coats of an ordinary joint compound with paper tape. The savings in labor cost is about 6 to 12 percent.
(7) In corners, caulk, don't tape. Taping tight fitting wall corners and wall-ceiling joints are troublesome and time-consuming. Instead, fill the joints with acrylic latex caulk. tape and joint compound require two or three coats, with drying time between each coat. Caulking is completed in a single swift operation-damp a sponge to smooth the caulk speed the work further and is much easier if you are doing the work yourself.
To be sure, along with the tapered edges of boards ( a narrowing of the board to accommodate tape and compound), the appearance will be better if taped and plastered. But where the tapered edges have been cut away, or where appearance is not as important as in garages, closets, and basements- caulking is a low cost and presentable technique. Moreover, with caulk, the joints are free to expand and contract slightly. The savings from using caulk instead of tape and compound at corners is about 15 percent of the normal finishing cost of an entire room.