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"Drywall Laminating Treatment"-Walls And Ceilings

Updated on June 14, 2017

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Laminated Wall And Ceiling
Laminated Wall And Ceiling

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Where more than half of a plaster wall needs repair, the least expensive, high-quality lamination treatment is with drywall. The Sheetrock merely goes over the old plaster, and the joints are covered with drywall tape and compound. For walls 3/8 inch thick drywall is sufficient; for ceilings, 3/8 inch drywall is easiest to handle and is acceptable if carefully fastened on joists or strapping (1 x 2-inch furring strips running across the joists) set no more than 16 inches apart. For wider spacing, 1/2 inch board is best, because it is less likely to sag in the areas between lines of nail or screws.



Before laminating ceilings, however, make sure that the framing can withstand the extra weight of the drywall. Occasionally, ceilings with no floor above them were made with smaller joists.If the ceiling moves slightly upwards when pushed against hard, consider removing the old plaster before putting up the drywall.


Clean away any crumbling plaster from walls and ceilings before putting up the drywall; other-wise, chunks may fall behind the Sheetrock and create unsightly bulges on the walls and ceilings. At major holes, glue or screw shims to the lathe flush with the surrounding surface of the plaster.


Next, apply adhesive to the plaster wall; use a caulking gun to spread 3/8 in thick beads 12 inches apart. press the Sheetrock against the plaster holding the bottom of each board out onto the room so that the bottom is pushed onto the adhesive last for complete contact with the plaster.


Then use screws, not nails, to complete the task- hammering nail will loosen weak plaster. Make sure the screws used are long enough to penetrate the drywall, plaster, lathe, and studs

for a tight and secure wall and ceiling.


If you are working in a room where plaster is partially loose, you can screw the plaster to the studs using plaster washers before you apply the drywall. By doing so, you make certain that the worst sections of plaster are firmly secure to the framing members.


For ceilings, use a second set of screws through the 1/2 inch drywall and into the floor joists above to firmly anchor the whole ceiling. Don,t trust screws in the lath alone to support new drywall-nails holding the lath to the floor joists may pull loose with the added weight.


You may be able to save money by crating a wainscot ( decorative panelling that cover the lower portion of the wall ). Often, the most damage portion of plaster walls are the lower areas; which are commonly below the window level. These damage comes from furniture pressed or banged against the lower areas of a plaster wall as well as leaking windows that creates water damage, while the upper portion of the wall are relatively sound.


When these situation arises it is recommended that you cover the only the lower 3 to 4 feet of the wall with drywall. This may even lead to savings from mechanical contractors and electricians, who-before laminating begins-can remove part of the lower walls to make their runs and leave the upper portion intact.


To cover the top junction of the drywall and the old plaster, attach wood chair rails or other molding over edge of drywall (the usual height of chair rail is 36 inches. off from the floor, or level with the lowest trim on windows).


Two cheaper way to disguise the joint between drywall and plaster. One technique is to run a bead of molding and caulking along the upper and lower edges of the drywall; the other is to use a casing bead, available in home improvement stores. If your home has three part molding you can remove the top strip, usually apiece called the ogee, and lay the drywall on the larger piece of molding below. then install a thinner ogee strip. The old shoe molding remains in place. if you do not have three part base molding, you can remove what molding there is in place and run the drywall to the floor. Then, the old molding-or new, if you prefer-goes down in place at floor level. If you are installing an entirely new baseboard, vinyl cove base molding fastened with adhesive is the cheapest method.


Entire rooms should receive the same treatment through out on all walls. In most cases 12 ft wallboard eliminates the need for vertical joints except at corners.


Covering plaster with drywall may cause troubles with wooden trim at doors and windows as well as with base molding. You could, remove all the trim, install shims at the jambs, and then set the trim back in place after the boards has been installed. But you needn't, instead you can abut drywall to the wood trim and fill the slight gaps with latex paint able caulking ( not joint compound, which will crack over time in this application) To speed the work, smooth the latex caulking in the cracks with a wet sponge. You you can paint over the joint with latex paint while the joint is still damp, but i would wait until dry.


paneling is also good as a wainscoting, rising from the baseboard 3 or 4 feet up the wall. paneling take the punishment of chairs banging into walls children's toys, and dark paneling hides dirt. In kithhens and bathrooms plastic face panelling has the greatest resistance to moisture and is easiest to clean. A wainscot of tough paneling such as tempered hardboard is particularly suited for stairways. the base molding treatment discussed above works just as well on paneling as on drywall laminate.


lamination cost considerably less than replacement. Covering a whole room of decorating plaster with new drywall saves the cost of demolition and of replacing trim. Obviously the savings are greater if you can get away with laminating only the bottom 3 or 4 feet of each wall.

So which will you choose? Good luck.

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