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Blacksmith Tools For Sale

Updated on April 15, 2013

Blacksmithing Tools, Forges & Anvils For Sale

Anvils come in a plethora of different styles and designs. Depending on your purpose, some anvils may be better suited for your task at hand.

Anvils can be made of a number of different materials, and the savvy shopper will know the differences. As a rule, stay away from any cast iron anvils you may come across. Steel is a far less brittle material for anvils, and are better at not absorbing the energy of a hammers blow. Some very old anvils have a steel surface, but are cast iron below. They're quite rare, but you should be aware of the differences.

Photo Courtesy of AllPosters.com

Used Blacksmith Anvils For Sale Today - New and used anvils for sale.

If your having a hard time trying to find anvils adequate for blacksmith work, you're in luck. We've collected a few choice anvils in the links below. Some may actually be being auctioned off, so be sure to check the end dates, to see how long till the auction closes.

NC Big Face Anvil

If your either a blacksmith, or a farrier, then this anvil works for you. This design is based on the thin heel approach. Cliphorns both round and square are featured. Works for either left or right handed users. 1-1/4" chamfered, round turning hole in heel. Dimensions: Face 3-3/4" x x6" Heel 3-1/4"x 5" Horn 3-1/2" x 8" Height 8-3/4" Base 11" x 9"

Blacksmith Forgemaster Forge

Here's a great forge fired by gas, that's flexible enough for a number of applications, including horseshoeing, blacksmithing, and even NAD forging. Designed and built for thick and durable high quality steel with a clamshell construction held together with industrial strength welds. Features a spark igniter and tough and resilient finish. Heating Chamber Dimensions Width 13" Depth 8 1/2" Height 3"

70 lb Horseshoer's Regular Face Anvil

Built for speed. Designed with fast horseshoeing in mind. Perfect for the beginner or advanced shoer. Features include side turning cams. Something sure to make square toes easier. Also includes a tapered heel for all sizes of shoes.

Pro-Forge 200

This is a very fuel efficient forge, sure to keep your gas prices down. It includes time saving features, like auto aligning twin fuel jets.This forge works quickly and cleanly. Hearth plates are easily changed with access directly through the front. Other features include a unique fibre liner, rounded design, and modern manufacturing process. Dimensions Door: Length 12" Height 3 1/2" at opening Firebox depth 8" Exterior: Length 16" Height 17 1/2" Width 15"

NC Short Sugar Anvil

Excellent choice of blacksmiths and farriers. Includes a pritchel hole in the heel, and if turning cams are required, they're available. Hardie hole is included in the horn - 1 inch size.

Excalibur Forgemaster Forge

Here's an incredibly stingy and fuel efficient forge, that features both rear and front auto close doors. It's flexible enough to suit both the demanding blacksmith and farrier. Heating chamber dimensions: Width 11" Length 8 1/2" Height 3"

TFS 70 Lb Anvil

TFS 70 Lb Anvil

Works for a blacksmith, but is primarily designed with the horseshoeing in mind.Dimensions: Face 3.5" x 12.25" Horn 3.5" x 9" Height 7.75" Base 8.5" x 9.5"

Farrier Forgemaster

This would be an excellent forge for either blacksmiths or farriers. Features include, the ability to handle your choice of keg, or hand made shoes. The opening in the front is flexible enough to accommodate any size of shoes you may be using.

Future 5 with Aluminum Base

Mainly a horseshoeing anvil, but could be used by a blacksmith. Includes a gasket (rubber) separating steel top, and aluminum base for quieter use. Dimensions: Face 4" x 10.75" Horn 4" x 8.25" Height 8.50" Base 9.25" x 11"

Blacksmith Forge with Dual Valve Control

Whether your a professional, or a hobbyist, this is a forge you'll enjoy using. It features dual openings at each end, to allow for barstock that is extra long. For those fuel efficient aficionados, you'll especially the snug fit doors. Heating chamber dimensions: Width 13" Depth 8 1/2" Length 3"

TFS Lil Giant 70 Lb

This an all purpose anvil, used mostly for horseshoeing, but very appropriate as a blacksmith anvil as well. Dimensions: Face 4" x 10.75" Horn 4" x 8.25" Height 8.50"

E-1 Forgemaster Forge

Features of this blacksmith or farrier forge include tightly sealing door, and a tool rest that is completely adjustable.You'll enjoy the extra fuel efficiency with dual closing sides. Heat chamber dimensions: Width 13" Length 8 1/2" Height 3"

NC Short Sugar Anvil with Slot

This is a terrific anvil for whether your a blacksmith or a farrier. The versatile thin heel will work with turning cams, that are also available. Square cliphorn 1-1/4" chamfered, round turning hole in steel. 1" hardie hole in horn Pritchel hole in heel Dimensions: Face 3-1/4" x 11-1/2" Horn 4" x 8" Height 9" Base 11" x 8-1/2"

70 lb Horseshoers Wide Face Anvil

If you need to get your horseshoeing done faster, this is the anvil you want. An excellent choice for either the apprentice or experienced shoer. Square toes will be a snap with side turning cams. A tapered hle is perfect for any size of shoes you need to shape, large or small.

Future 2 with Aluminum Base

Future 2 with Aluminum Base

This is an all purpose anvil, built with horseshoeing in mind, but flexible enough to be used by the creative blacksmith. Hammering noise is kept to a minimum, with an innovative rubber gasket between the base and the top of the anvil. Dimensions: Face 4.25" x 16" Horn 4.25" x 11" Height 10" Base 7" x 15"

Future 4 with Aluminum Base

This anvil is the perfect choice for someone who does a lot of horseshoeing, but still has the odd blacksmith job to do. This anvil also has the nice feature of a noise dampening gasket between the upper and lower sections of the anvil, to make your workshop a little quieter.

Future 3 with Aluminum Base

This is an incredibly versatile anvil, that works well for any number of blacksmith tasks, particularly of the horseshoeing variety.

NC Big Face with Slot

If your looking for an anvil that works well with hot or cold shoes, then you've found the anvil for you. An extra wide face is sure to make shoe leveling a much simpler process. Turning cams are of course available for this anvil. Dimensions: Face 3-3/4" x 6" Heel 3-1/4" x 5" Horn 3-1/2" x 8" Height 8-3/4" Base 11" x 9"

Holding Down Tools For Working With An Anvil - Hold downs help in different types of anvil work

David Robertson, a very accomplished and successful blacksmith, shows in detail some of the hold down tools that help him with his work. He uses a bike chain, a mushroom cap hold down, and a spring hold down. Quite informative, and good things to look for when shopping around for an anvil.

Blacksmith Forge Buying Tips

Image by jurvetson

If you've never bought, or used a blacksmith forge before, there are a few things you should keep in mind. Old style blacksmith forges used to be coal burning, but most of the commercial forges you'll find today, are gas powered. Either natural gas or propane.

One of the most important features of a good forge, is the accessibility to the heart, or hottest part of the fire. It should be easy for the blacksmith to place the metal he is using into the hottest part of the fire.

The forge needs to accommodate whatever size or shape of metal you will be working on. Clamshell designs, or dual door forges are helpful in this regard. A forge that is too small, will take longer to heat the metal, and burn a lot more fuel.

While coal powered forges are somewhat more nostalgic, they can be very unhealthy for extended use. Coal smoke contains a lot of nasty stuff, that can cause a whole list of ailments, not the least of which being irreversible nerve poisoning. Buy a gas forge!

If your going to be working with large pieces of metal, or even elaborately shaped metal, get a forge with a clamshell design. It's specifically designed for just those purposes.

Federal regulations, and greener initiatives are making it harder to find and buy good blacksmithing coal. That's another good reason to buy a gas powered forge.

Gas forges are simpler to use, and the beginner or experienced blacksmith will produce more output with a gas forge.

Contrary to what some blacksmiths believe, gas forges can do forge welding. Just make sure that your unit has big enough burners.

It's important to have a hot enough fire inside your forge. It's better to have too much that can be turned down, than too little that you can do nothing about. Generally speaking, if you have a three-quarter inch burner for every 350 cubic inches of interior forge space you should be fine.

If you find that the forge you bought, does not get as hot as you would like, there is a simple trick you can try. Add a few fire bricks to the inside chamber of the forge. This should decrease the space to heat, and result in a hotter forge.

Coal burning forges require more skill to control and shape the fire. If your just starting out, gas forges are the way to go.

Blacksmith Forge For Sale

Time to stoke the fire a little.

A forge is where the metal is heated, so that it can be shaped on the anvil with hammer and various other tools. There are a number of different forges to consider when shopping around. They are the charcoal/coal forge, the gas forge, and the finery forge. The primary distinction between the three, is the fuel used to heat the metal. A forge may also be referred to as a smithy, or a hearth.

Image Courtesy of AllPosters.com

Used Forge For Sale - Knowing what forges are available is the first step.

This is a good time to do a little comparison shopping for a forge. There are quite a variety of units available. Many offering different features for the discriminating blacksmith.

Image by fauxto-dkp

Anvils vary quite a bit in price, anywhere from a quarter to 3 bucks per pound. A few decades ago, about $1 per pound was pretty standard. These days however, prices are kind of all over the place. It really is a question of the individuals involved in the sale, and whose the better negotiator. I heard of a few friends, that have paid considerably less that $1 per pound, some other friends who've gotten anvils donated to them for free, and some less fortunate friends, that have paid over $2 a pound. Now, for brand new anvils your going to pay around the five or six dollar per pound mark.

The important thing about buying used anvils, is having a sharp eye and know how for a quality anvil. Small chinks, pits in a used Anvil are to be expected. They're not a huge deal. Watch out for cracks, or extra large divots. Wrought iron is a good material for the anvil body. Steel is fine as well, and be sure to look for a face that is composed of hard steel. If you see an anvil made of cast iron, run away as fast as you can. Don't even consider buying one. You'll want an anvil with a good bounce. Your hammer should bounce quickly off a good anvil. If an anvil has been mounted properly, they will have a nice ring sound to them. If they're not clamped down properly, you won't get the same sound. The smaller the anvils (say less than 100lb) will have a very piercing ring, while a 300 plus pound anvil will produce a much more subdued ring. The heel of an anvil, as well as the horn, will produce a lounder ring. An anvil with a bad crack (or even not so bad crack), will not produce a good ringing sound.

The new anvils of the farrier style (longer heal and horn) that have a small waist and curved base are for lighter work. Tweaking or making slight adjustments to pre manufactured horseshoes would be one such suitable task. Don't use them for creating new horseshoes, or heavier duty blacksmith work. One advantage of farrier anvils is portability. Just be aware of their limitations. If you plan on doing heavy and frequent blacksmith work, don't buy any anvil less than 200 pounds. Otherwise, you just end up replacing your anvil within a year or less.

Knowing when to replace your anvil, is a valuable skill when it comes to looking at used anvils as well. You'll know what to watch out for. If your anvil face is so sway backed, that you can tell just by looking at it, then it's time to start shopping. Stress cracks are a sure sign to consider replacing your anvil as well. If larger pieces start to easily break off your anvil, it becomes a safety issue, and should be replaced right away.

Tips For Buying Used Anvils - There are a few subtle things to look for when anvil shopping.

Blacksmithing Tools For The Beginner - Essential tools for the amateur blacksmith

Image by han_s

Once you've made the decision to become a blacksmith, either as a hobby, or a profession, there are a few essential tools your going to need. I say essential, because I want to keep this list short for the beginner blacksmith. It's not necessary to have an entire shop full of tools to start blacksmithing. Any apprentice blacksmith that's walked into an seasoned blacksmiths shop, is sure to be overwhelmed by the abundance of tools they see. Keep in mind, that those tools were accumulated over a lifetime or more of blacksmithing. Quite often tools are handed down through the family.

First and foremost, you will need a hammer, an anvil, a forge, a vise, and some tongs. That's the basic building blocks to get you started. Lets consider these tools in detail.

When shopping for a blacksmith hammers, a cross peen is a good choice. A common mistake is to go for something a little too large. Don't go there. You can always move up to something you can handle, and use a lighter one for small jobs down the road. But, a hammer that is too heavy, will likely just end up sitting on a shelf, never to be used again. A two pound hammer, is probably about average. If your of a bigger build you can go up, but if your smaller than average, or very young it's better to start smaller.

The forge is another essential piece of equipment. Many blacksmiths make their own forges, but if your just getting started, you usually need a forge to build a forge. So, if you have a friend or relative that's a blacksmith, and can get some time in their shop, you may be able to build your own forge for cheap out of whatever parts you have lying around. Every blacksmith worth their weight in nails, has built themselves a forge at some point. Whether or not they still use it, is another question. Some of the newer high tech gas forges have a lot to offer the beginner. Don't discount them, just because their new.

Besides a hammer, the most recognizable blacksmiths tool, has to be the anvil. They can be expensive, especially if you buy brand new. eBay always has anvils for sale. Check out some of the links on this page, and also be sure to read our buying an anvil guide just a little further up from here. Some beginners use railroad ties, as a cheap alternative, but this is generally a case of you get what you pay for. If your going to be spending a lot of time in your shop, your core tools should be ones you can count on.

You'll need to either buy, beg, borrow, or steal some tongs to get you started. Later on though, you should be making your own. You'll get exactly what you want for less money, and become better at your chosen profession all at the same time.

It's hard to imagine any kind of serious workshop, that doesn't have a good vise installed. A blacksmith shop, is no different. Unlike the hammer advice from above, with a vise, it's best to buy the biggest one your wallet can stand. Preferably, a vise specifically designed for blacksmithing. They're often call solid box / blacksmiths leg / blacksmiths post vise.

Antique Blacksmith Tools Guide - Some simple tips to follow, when looking for old or vintage blacksmith hammers, anvils, forges, tongs, and vises.

Image by Svadilfari

Blacksmithing, is one of those old and ancients crafts whose origins date back hundreds of years to the old world. While it's not the oldest profession, it certainly is one of the oldest. In the olden days, it was what many would call a foundation skill. Meaning, the blacksmith was one of the craftsman relied upon to get their own work done. Being able to create objects from metal, was then, and is now a good skill to have.

Since it's been around for so long, there are a lot of old and vintage tools used by blacksmiths over the years. Partially due to the age of the profession, partially due to the longevity of the material they work with (metals), and partially due to the skill of the craftsman involved.

Antique Anvils

When buying antique anvils, it's important to keep in mind what your intentions are with the said anvil. If it's simply for aesthetic reasons, such as a focal piece in your workshop, than the usability of the anvil is not important. If you do plan on using the anvil, as a working anvil, then it's important to check the integrity of the anvil. Check for obvious repair work, that may not stand up to constant use.

Antique Blacksmith Hammers

If any tool is symbolic of the ancient art of blacksmithing, it has to be the hammer. Used to shape hot metal into a variety of useful and imaginative shapes, it's hard to believe, that these implements would have survived over the years from all the beatings they've inflicted. But a perusal of some antique tool collections, will reveal quite a few vintage and antique blacksmith sledge, ball peen, maul, pick, and punch hammers of good condition.

Antique Blacksmith Tongs

Looking for antique tongs, is really not much different, than any of the other blacksmith tools, or for any antique tools in general. Tools in good condition are usable as everyday tools, whereas those that aren't simply become collector items. Suitable for display or decoration.

Blacksmith Tool History

What is interesting is trying to collect blacksmith tools from a certain period, region, or individual blacksmith. Or any combination of all the above. If you research the history of blacksmithing, you'll find that most blacksmiths had a mark they placed on their work. Once you know the different marks, it makes identifying the tools of a person, period, or region much simpler.

Any tips, tricks, suggestions, or comments about the art of blacksmithing, and the tools involved will be greatly appreciated. Resources and other sites you've found to be helpful are welcome as well. Just leave your comments in the box below.

Blacksmith Forum - For discussion on all things about being a blacksmith

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    • LaraineRoses profile image

      Laraine Sims 8 years ago from Lake Country, B.C.

      Hi Chris, This is an interesting lens for me as my grandpa was a blacksmith. I don't remember too much about him but he was a BIG man and he invented a lot of things. Thanks for making this lens. 5 stars, favorite, fan and lensrolled.

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      anonymous 8 years ago

      hello chis, I recently got out of the army, and my father, brother, and i would like to start black smithing more as a hoby but also to fix stuff on our farm what type of forge should we get and the rest of the tools we would need thanks

    • MusicMadness LM profile image
      Author

      MusicMadness LM 8 years ago

      Hi Hiram,

      Thanks for the question. As far as forges go, I would recommend a gas forge with a clamshell design for a beginner blacksmith. The gas is much easier to work with, and the clamshell design is flexible enough to accommodate a wide range of metal shapes and sizes. Like this one Be sure to read this article as well.

      As far as tools, well that's a pretty big question. Apart from a forge, an anvil, a good hammer, and some basic hold downs, there's all kinds of tools you could get. One of the nice things about being a blacksmith, is that you can make a lot of your own tools. It's always good practice for a beginner as well, if your trying to keep your budget down. You could try this link http://www.fholder.com/Blacksmithing/article3.htm as well.

    • profile image

      anonymous 7 years ago

      have a..quierd forge,heavy anvil,triphammer,flatbelt drillpresses. L.ate 1800 s. need to know a site to advertise such equipment ford6453@yahoo.com

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      anonymous 7 years ago

      Acquiredf a Canedy Otto western Chief blower. What weight oil should I be using in the gear box?

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      anonymous 7 years ago

      I use 90weight in my Champion, which is similar to your Canady. The oil is commonly used in differentials on rear axles for vehicles. Lighter oils, (40 wt.) which worked, made more of a mess (leaking through the bearings) and needed more constant maintenance. since I switched to 90 wt. I have a smoother operation and less noise. [in reply to Jim]

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      anonymous 7 years ago

      I'm looking for a sawyers anvil (square or rectangle) stand or not. If you have one or know someone who does, I'd like to buy one. No cast iron crap. I'm new but not stupid. email me at: scott@bigransomprintshop.com

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      For those of you that like the nostalgia and performance of a coal forge, but don't want the health issues with coal, or the expense of gas, there is another way. Charcoal! In the old days miners would gather Douglas Fir and burn it in a charcoal kiln. They would take the product and use it to fire their smelters to extract the metals from the ore. Some traditional blacksmiths today are finding this fuel works great to fire a forge to welding temperatures. I've been using gas for about 11 years now and will continue to do so, but am also learning about setting up a charcoal burning forge for my traditional work. If anyone is interested in this style of forging contact me through my website: 21stcenturyforge.com Put "charcoal" in the beginning of the message so I'll know your human!

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      We have some Blacksmith tool that fit in the Anvil I think are 3/4 maybe 1/2 in not for sure but would like to seel them and are wanting to know where the best place would be they were Grandpa's and we don't want to scrape them just for the metal when someone could get good use out of them, if any one would know we live in Indiana..

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      anonymous 6 years ago

      @anonymous: hi amanda, steven here i live in edinburgh indiana, do you have pics. of tools you have for sale?? and do you by chance still have your grandpa"s anvil or any of his hammers?? thank you for your time.you can also reach me at mosscustomarrows@hotmail.com

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      a friend has a tool he thinks might be a blacksmith tool of some sort it resimbles a set of tongs and on the working end one side is ball shaped and the other side has a ring the ball fits into. on the side is the word Giant. I have pictures

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      I have been trying to find an older coal forge as a gift, many I have looked at need a new belt, but I have not found anywhere that lists replacement belts. Can anyone point me in the right direction or tell me if they are called by something else or come in different sizes?

      Take you for your time and kindness~ Debra

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      I came across this site: http://www.dawnapproaches.com/blacksmithing.html and they carry a collection of 115 vintage how to blacksmithing books on a dvd-rom. I ordered one and got it in a few days and it has been one of the best blacksmithing tools I have invested in. Highly recommend it!

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      KSara 5 years ago

      I came across this site: http://www.dawnapproaches.com/blacksmithing.html and they carry a collection of 115 vintage how to blacksmithing books on a dvd-rom. I ordered one and got it in a few days and it has been one of the best blacksmithing tools I have invested in. Highly recommend it!

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      I have huge bellows of the type that used to be suspended above a forge in a blacksmith shop. I am trying to establish it's value. Anyone know what it might be worth?

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      I have four stone vessels that I was told were old pots to carry the melted iron for blacksmithing. Does anyone have any ideas on this. I have searched the internet and cannot find anything.

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      shrike254 5 years ago

      @anonymous: Hi there, as a blacksmith myself, I can tell you that I very much doubt that's what your pots were/are for. I doubt they're for that purpose because when you heat metal enough (usually by accident when you forget you have metal in the fire) it tends to burn rather than melt (it will only melt when there's no oxygen around for the metal to burn with), and make the piece pretty much useless, although that said, if the burn isn't too severe you can work the metal until it's a dull cherry red, and that should restore the metals strength. Anyway, I very much doubt those pots were used by any blacksmith, because that use would be part of the casting industry, and cast iron is horrible stuff, it's way to brittle to do anything worthwhile with in a forge. Also, going back into my apprenticeship, I've never met or heard of anyone having some old casting pots, I suggest you hold on to them. Hope this helped :)

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      shrike254 5 years ago

      @anonymous: Hi Phyllis, those bellows you have are supposed to be stood behind the forge wall, under the chimney if possible, rigged up to the tuyere. I was recently had some made for me in my forge, and they cost me somewhere around £2000, although they were made for me by a friend, and I built the frame for them to stand on myself. If they're double action and in working order, I would estimate you could get between £1500 and £2500 (depending on their size and how well they work). I hope this helped you.

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      shrike254 5 years ago

      @anonymous: What you described in your comment sounds a lot like a suage and its matching fuller, I would guess they were made by someone for a specific use they intended to repeat (you spend a day on the tool, and ten minutes on the job, lol), If I could see a picture of the tool I might be able to get a better idea of what they might be. Hopefully this helped :)

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      @anonymous: a belt was usually made of leather and can easily be fabricated again with a strip of leather.

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      My sister found a board in in old blacksmith shop that we're not sure what it was used for.

      The board is about 6 feet long and 4 inches wide it has a series of holes it every 10 inches or so. The holes are about 2 1/2 inches wide. In between each hole is a raised area made out of a harder wood and raised area slants down toward the holes on each side of it. Any ideas about what is was used for.

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      Hi I just found a forge in my late fathers shed, it has a large bellows under the fire tray with a handle on front to work bellows also underneath stamped in the timber of bellows is 1-7-1896. would anybody have any information, Kind regards Tom

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      anonymous 5 years ago

      I have an antique wooden blacksmiths box with an iron handle and even some tools and I am curious as to the value of this piece. Does anyone know where I could get some info on this ?

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      oldman-87 5 years ago

      have a thirty pound hammer with sided head and v shaped back- regular sledgehammer type handle.Say camco on it. what's it for

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      i have an old army portable/suitcase-type forge. i'd like to sell it. research says its circa- early 1900s. blower, legs and manifold all fit into the box that becomes the forge pan. i'm the BEARHARP at bullrhymer@hotmail.com

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      hey i am looking to buy a blacksmith forge but keep getting outbid last minute on ebay anyone know of anyone who has or knows where i could buy a second hand forge good condition in england. my e-mail is stephen.foster532@yahoo.co.uk thankyou

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      @anonymous: Pam it depends on the tools, as far as selling it to someone who collects old blacksmith stuff it wouldn't be worth a whole lot. If I could see a pic I could give you a good idea if you still are wondering. see_blacksmith@yahoo.com

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      there are how many villages are in bihar,india where development had been made without blacksmiths(yksgkj) from ancient time??????

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      I picked up an Swedish anvil the other day, but know nothing about it! It reeds Sweden on one side and the other NOHAB 23 if any one knows something about it, I would love to know?

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      anonymous 4 years ago

      I picked up an old table forge with a hand crank blower that I am going to resell

      It is supposedly from the Deppersion era (1930s)

      I have a few questions. I have lots of pictures I can send.

      How old is it really?

      What is its value?

      Thanks for any info

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      I don't agree with your suggestion that a gas forge is generally better than a coal or coke forge. You have better control of the temperature with a non-gas forge. I have both and use the gas forge much less than my 100 year old hand cranked blower forge. Also, I burn coke so there is hardly any smoke. Also, altitude is a factor as to whether you can forge weld in a gas forge. A forge that will get metal to a welding heat near sea level may well not be that capable in Colorado or Wyoming.

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      Could you please tell me who the maker of this forge is?

      Thank you

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      erfanstreet 4 years ago

      Great lens. You have so much to offer for Blacksmith sale .

    • LiteraryMind profile image

      Ellen Gregory 4 years ago from Connecticut, USA

      Interesting. My grandfather was a blacksmith. I remember his garage filled with tools. I probably should have saved them.

    • Melissa Miotke profile image

      Melissa Miotke 4 years ago from Arizona

      We recently had a blacksmith forge our initials for a steak brander. Pretty cool!

    • profile image

      anonymous 4 years ago

      What is wrong with a cast iron anvil?

    • Paladins profile image

      Paladins 4 years ago

      Very nice lens on an interesting topic. Well done.

    • Jim Houston profile image

      Jim Houston 3 years ago from Wilmer, Alabama

      Hi Chris, interesting lens. This is a skill I always wanted to learn but never had the time. Always working or sailing on the weekend. I'm going to take a look at some of the books you have displayed. By the way I like your Hunter 29.5 great boat. JimHouston33

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