Four Great Regulator Watches

When thinking of unique dial layouts, the first type of watch one would think of would be a chronograph. Others would think of maybe a perpetual calendar or a moonphase watch. Very few would think of a regulator watch. It has arguably the most unique dial amongst all types of watches, with its single central hand to read minutes while the hours and the seconds are relegated to subdials. It would certainly take a while to get used to reading it.

The design for the regulator watch came about in the days of watchmakers, when timepieces were crafted by hand. In the center of a workshop one would find a clock with all the time registers separated, with the minute hand being the largest at the center. This allowed watchmakers to regulate their watches with the time easily displayed by the clock in the center, hence the name “regulator”.

Nowadays this practice is hardly, if ever, followed, but the design lives on in a few handsomely designed watches.

In one of Bell & Ross’s more tastefully restrained watches, the WW1 Regulateur in Pink Gold has a case diameter of 42mm, and it comes on a brown alligator strap with an 18k pink gold buckle. The limited edition piece also has wire lugs. The dial itself is a silver color, with a very minimalist feel to it, with most of the color coming from the blued steel hands

Lange is known for their beautiful watches, and the Richard Lange is no exception. The watch debuted at SIHH 2016, and while it may not appeal to everyone, it will appeal to those who can appreciate a Lange. It’s a regulator but it also has jumping seconds, which is quite an ironic complication. Jumping seconds means the seconds hand ticks like a quartz watch, but it is entirely mechanical. With a 42 hour power reserve and a 39mm platinum case, it features all the Lange characteristics while still being an entirely new watch.

While Glashutte Original is a lesser known brand, that doesn’t mean it doesn’t deserve any praise. Look at their Senator Chronometer Regulator and say it’s not a gorgeous watch. It comes in either red or white gold, and in a 42mm case with a panoramic date window. The blued steel hands and black markings contrast well with the silver dial. If you turn the watch over, you can also see the beautiful movement hidden beneath the dial, proving its beauty is more than skin deep.

Not everyone regulator will cost you an arm and a leg, as Hamilton is so willing to prove with their Jazzmaster Regulator. It has a different take on the regulator layout, with its asymmetric dial. By switching up the layout to a less vertical arrangement, Hamilton has ensured legibility in the Jazzmaster Regulator. Since Hamilton is part of the Swatch Group, it is powered by an ETA movement: the H-12, which was designed exclusively for the American-Swiss brand. Like most regulators, it has a 42mm case to ensure legibility, and it has a 40 hour power reserve as well as a sapphire case back so one can see the movement.