How To Remove Brassy Tones From Bleached Blonde Hair
Lets start from the very beginning - Orange
So, I'm assuming you have found this page because you've bleached your hair and wanted to go blonde, and instead of going blonde you have turned out yellow, or orange, or looking little like a tabby cat with a whole shebang of colours with white roots, orange mid lengths and brown ends? ( It's ok, I've been where you are and I feel your pain! )
Seeing as its too late to help you before you've made your hair faux par, lets see if I can help you rectify it.
So, if you have started your hair escapades with virgin hair ( hair that is void of bleach or hair dye ) you're in luck because your issue is a little easier to fix. This part of this hub is written for you. Your hair has turned orange or yellow because you haven't left the bleach on long enough, you, like countless other before you, have seen the bleach starting to work and then freaked out because it was turning a colour you didn't like, so you washed it out.
Bleach needs to go through stages, initially it begins to lift your pigment, dependant on the colour of your natural hair this stage can be anywhere between 20 mins to and hour. If you have very dark hair such as black or very dark brown you may find you need to bleach more than once. For the sake of keeping this article concise your natural colour could be anything but you're here because its gone orange or yellow. Orange hair will never go blonde with a toner, you would need to go darker to cancel out the warm tones, but thats not what you want.
It's always a good idea not to use too high of a developer on your hair 40vol can be exceptionally damaging on the hair, especially hair that requires it to stay on for a longer amount of time. Far kinder to your hair to use a 30vol or even 20vol dependant on your natural hair colour, you will still get the results you want but in additional stages but most importantly without frying your tresses!
So, leaving at least a day in-between you will need to bleach again, you'll need to keep a close eye on your hair, check it every 5 - 10 mins or so, remove a small amount from under your plastic hood/cling film and hold it near the root and tug gently, if your hair stretches significantly when you do this you've gone too far and you'll need to rinse out now. If not then feel free to carry on until you reach the stage where your hair looks pale yellow, the same colour as the inside of a banana peel.
*NOTE* If your hair still hasn't reached the desired level after your second bleach please leave it alone, put a good conditioner or mask through it and baby it for a few days, adding another layer of bleach won't work at this stage, especially if you attempt to do it the same day. I do understand its not great to walk around with a hair colour you hate, but try to resit the temptation if you want to keep your hair! Make friends with a hat for at least a few days. Then you have to look at your hair and decide which action to take, another full bleach perhaps, or if its very close to the stage you need then perhaps you may just need a bleach bath.
Whats a Bleach Bath?
A bleach bath is a way of lightening your hair a shade or two, you have your regular bleach mixture but instead of putting it un-doctored on your hair again, you will be mixing it with some shampoo, and applying it like a shampoo, you will want 1 part bleaching solutions to 2 parts shampoo. Apply it evenly and give it a few mins on your hair, and rinse it out. This is an ideal solution ,and much less damaging for your hair, for those of you who are already very close to your desired colour and just need a small life. You can do this more than once, but try to avoid doing it too much, it is less damaging but it still involves bleach so overuse will just as easily cause damage.
The next section is going to look at where you go from here, and address those of you who have already reached the yellow stage. For those of you who have the tabby cat mixed effect you can scroll down to the 3rd section.
Inside of a banana skin is your goal colour
Yellow is the colour you are looking to achieve when bleaching your hair, be sure it is the pale level required though, you're yellow should look the same colour as the inside of a banana peel. This is the perfect colour you will require to reach the blonde you desire. If it isn't as pale as the inside of the banana skin you're going to need to follow the section ab out orange hair above.
If you have pale yellow hair your hair fix is very easy, you will need to use a toner. Toners come in a so many blonde shades from lightest ash blonde and white to champagne, pearl, and golden blonde. Pick the one you are wanting and voila you are done!.
Another way to tone your new bleached hair is by the use of silver shampoos, there are heaps on the market, one of my favourites is Clean Blonde by Fudge. The video below shows the effect of one of silver toner on the market by Jerome Russell. These tones tend to leave a lilac cast on the hair but the next time you wash they normally fade out to silver, leaving a lovely platinum shade. My hair was yellow from bleaching, and I had already washed my hair with silver shampoo prior to the toner.
Tabby Cat Style!
Tabby Cat Hair
I have bleached my hair, dyed it a multitude of colours and have been here, Roots white, lengths yellow and gold patchy and splodges of black and brown. I would dearly love to give you a way to resolve this and end up with the blonde hair you want today, but in reality I cant.
This is almost always the result of bleaching on-top of a permanent colour. The colour doesnt need to be recent either, it can be months old and the result will always be an uneven mess. If you continue to bleach over it you will end up losing your hair ( don't that too! ) My advice to you would be if you desperately want to go blonde and you really cant wait until the colour has grown out you need to either go get the colour cut out of your hair or stick another dye on-top of it.
It's a good idea to go for a semi permanent hair dye as these just coat the hair rather then penetrate the hair shaft and are much less damaging. You can keep doing this until your hair reaches a length you don't mind cutting you can have the old permanent dye cut out, let the semi permanent fade then you're free to begin bleaching to the blonde you want ( if you still want it by then )
You'll need to look at ash coloured hair dyes because anything with gold tones in is just going to make things much worse. Stick to an ash colour similar to the darkest parts of your hair.