Jadau and Meenakari : The artistic Jewellery of Mogul pattern
Kundan Meena Jadau Patrihar necklace sets
Meena: A special class of gold Jewelry
Jewelry with Meena is a special category of Indian Jewelry. Meena means enameling work. There are two types of Meena Jewelry, Meena with Kundan Jadau and Meena without Kundan Jadau.
Higher end Meena Jewelry are made in gold whereas lower end products are made in silver. We are mainly discussing here gold jewelry in Kundan Meena Jadau.
Indian Jewelers enamel Gold and silver Jewelry to enhance their beauty. Jewelers produce a variety of Jewelry with enamel in different places of the world. Indian enameling work is entirely different from those of France, England, and Turkey. In Indian Kundan Jadau and Meena Jewelry, generally enameling work is done in the backside of the ornaments and is called Ek posta meena. Sometimes it is on the front side too and then it is called do posta. The artisans engrave beautiful flowers, leaves, birds and animals in the gold plate and then enamel the same . Jaipur.
Kundan Meena Jadau Pendant and Earring sets
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Pioneer in Kundan Meena Jadau
Jadau-Kundan-Meena jewelry includes necklace, bangles, tops, jhumki, hasli, kada, bracelet, earrings, ring, armlet, hathful and many other ornaments.
Maharaja Sawai Jaisingh, founder of Jaipur was an art lover. He was also a promoter of skills and businesses. Jaipur has flourished as a center of excellence in gem and jewelry manufacturing and trading in his able patronage. He brought Meenakari art of mogul pattern from Delhi to Jaipur. He invited Surana family, Delhi-based Jewelers to Jaipur for that purpose.
The Surana family has been contributing a lot until now to the very art of Jadau and Meenakari. They are not only the pioneers but also maintaining the dignity of this art till date. Many others have also joined the trail further and contributing to the art of Kundan Jadau Meena.
Kundan Meena Aadia
Various manufacturing centers
Later on, Bikaner and Sardarshahar (only a few years back ) of Rajasthan have adopted this art. Jaipur meena is one of the best, especially with the art of pachchikari. Bikaner produces the maximum quantity because of cheap labor and Sardarshahar produces commercial quality in huge quantity. Bikaner and Sardarshahar are the main places in Rajasthan for enameling work.
Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh is famous for Pink Meena, Hyderabad in Andhra Pradesh is for Kaarwani and Kolkata, West Bengal for English and French Meena. Jadau works are done with Indian style only and not with French or English Meena.Jadau work is done only in gold jewelry.
Indore (Madhya Pradesh) and Ahmedabad (capital of Gujarat) produce Kundan Jewelry without Meena. Kundan is used for Jadau ornaments. Jewelers from various places in India enamel over silver and gold. Silver Meena of Kolkata and Nathadwara, Rajasthan are worth mention.
Kundan Meena Jadau: Vardhaman Gems educative series
Process of manufacturing Kundan Meena Jadau Jewelry
Making of these Jewelries involve a highly complicated and systematic process. Innitially, a designer makes a design, if approved, it goes to gharia who makes an initial skeleton of the piece called Ghat. This Ghat is shifted to Meenakar for further processing.
He enamels the same through a complicated process. He draws a design at first and then engraves it. He puts enamel on the engraved piece. The piece is enameled by heating the same. The Meenakar has to heat the piece several times for different colors. Each time he can put only one color.
The art piece then reaches to Jadia who pours gala (flux, a resin-like material) in the blank spaces. He also prepares Kundan heating thin flaps of pure gold. He also prepares daak from silver foils. The Jadia puts it in the backside of flat gemstones to provide extra glitter. Sometimes the Jadia add color to dak to enhance the color of gemstones such as Emerald, Ruby, and Sapphires. This foiled stone is ready for studding called Jadai.
Jadai is the very special art of India. It is an entirely different method of setting gemstones. The Jadia pours very small cuttings of Kundan flaps between the gaps of the walls of ghat and gemstones. He then tightens Kundan through a chisel-like tool and pressurizes it to melt and fill in the gaps.
Puwaiya ( who strings) adds beads to some ornaments after setting to enhance their beauty and to give those gorgeous look. These hanging beads are called latkans. The art of binding beads with golden or silver wire is called bandhai or aanti-puwai.
The manufacturer sells this ready to wear Kundan Meena Jadau Jewellery to showroom owners and retailers. The retailer or showroom owners then sell it to customers. Kundan Meena Jadau ornaments are trendy and evergreen in fashion. Indians and Arabians love Kundan Meena Jadau very much since centuries. Europeans and Americans have also adopted these ornaments since few years.
Women and girls love these ornaments very much. It is a good investment tool too. Interested in buying this kind of Jewelry?