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The different needle sizes used in skin needling and derma rolling

Updated on September 20, 2014

Needle Sizes for Skin Needling

Skin needling is an anti-wrinkle procedure that has been rediscovered from many years ago. A Dr. Fernandez was the first scientist to discover wrinkle reduction when the skin is punctured with small needles. An accidental discovery, now the most effective wrinkle removal technique in the U.S.

The needles used for skin needling are very small. They come in different lengths that are used for different results. You can use them for product penetration or direct wrinkle reduction, depending on your skins needs. The needles range from as tiny as 0.02mm to a 3.0mm needle. Le't take a look at what the are used for:

0.2-0.5 mm Needles:

Your skin is several layers thick, so the needle has to be long enough to cause the bodies natural response to injury begin. A 0.2-0.5 mm needle will not puncture your skin deep enough for direct wrinkle reduction, but these size needles are great to use for product penetration.

Product penetration:

Your probably going to hear me talk a lot about product penetration through my skin needling articles, as this is important information to know if you are thinking about skin needling.

Product penetration happens after “light” skin needling with a “shorter” (0.2-0.5mm) needled roller. The roller makes minute hole in your skin as it's being rolled across it. These holes are no more than 0.5mm in length and even smaller in circumference. They are made to “push” any product you use on your face, into the underlying layers of your skin.

Just rubbing on your nightly creams and potions without creating “channels” for them to get under the skin, will leave them just sitting atop your skin and going no-where. Anti-aging creams and potions have to get deeper than just sitting atop of your skin, to actually work.

The difference you will see in you face after “pushing” your favorite serum into it for a few weeks is amazing. I was very pleased with the results I saw when I did this. Using my skin needling roller for “pushing” my Vitamin C and Retin-A into my skin was the first thing I used my needled roller for. I used it for 8 months to “push” product into my face. I was very happy with the results I received with needling for product penetration.

My Knowledge, experience and Opinion Spot:

I use a 0.5mm needle roller for product penetration. I cleanse my face really good, then I use my derma roller to “roll” it's needles over my upper lip. You must roll over the area several times, across and up and down. You will hear your skin make a “popping” sound as the roller rolls across you face.

In my opinion, the 0.5mm needle roller does not cause pain. It feels a little like a rough beard scratching across your face. There may be a very small amount of blood, contrary to what I have heard and seen on the internet, I bled a little bit with the 0.5mm.

Bleeding also depends on what types of medication you are on. Some people are known as “bleeders”, so obviously, they will bleed more than someone who has “normal” blood.

0.75-2.0 mm Needles:

The 0.75-2.0 needles are generally used to “activate the bodies natural response to injury”. These needles are used to actually decrease those wrinkles that you so hate to see everyday! If you are going to be using the 0.75-2.0 size needles, you may need something to numb the area you will be rolling.

0.75-2.0mm needles can reach the deeper layers of the skin, depending on the length you use. The 0.75mm may only be a product “pusher” if you happen to have thicker skin. Some people have thicker skin than others. The 1.0, 1.5 and the 2.0mm needles should penetrate deep enough, when using the skin roller on your face, to initiate the “injury response” in the skin.

My Knowledge, Experience and opinion spot:

I use a 1.5mm needle roller to penetrate deep into the inner layers of my skin. I have been using the 1.5mm needle roller for about 2 years on the deep lines of my upper lip. I am 46 years old and had been smoking since I was 15 years old. The wrinkles in my upper lip were really deep from years of smoking.

As far as bleeding, I have the 1.5mm skin needling roller and I bleed a little more with this than the 0.5mm. Some people may bleed more than others, but when you are going that deep into your skin, your probably going to bleed. It may be just a little though.

After using this 1.5mm for 2 years, I have to say that I am quite impressed. The results take a long time to see and you will look worse before you start to look better, but the end results are really great! I am very happy with my derma roller.

3.0-4.0 mm Needles:

3.0-4.0 needles are for professional use only. These needles go deep into your skin and stimulate collagen and elastin to form at the injury site. The professional will apply a numbing cream to your face an hour before needling.

The rollers with a 3.0 to 4.0mm should not be used at home because there is a higher risk of infection with going that deep into the skin. Going 2mm into the skin can cause excessive bleeding also, which is another reason you should leave needles of this length to a professional.

My Knowledge, experience and opinion spot:

I use a 1.5mm needle length skin roller. I can't push it all the way in when I am rolling my upper lip. I have tried other places on my face such as, my cheeks, my forehead and under my eyes. There was not a spot on my face where I could insert the needles all the way in. It was too painful, bled a lot and was deep enough.

Single Needles:

Single skin needling works on the same concept as the skin roller, except you can work on single, deep wrinkles. Using a single needle also allows you to go any depth that you want. You can just “poke” the surface or really work on those wrinkles and go deep...about 2.0mm, maybe a little deeper.

My Knowledge, experience and opinion:

I use a single needle, along with a 0.5mm needle roller and a 1.5mm needle roller. The single needle I use for the individual deep lines on my upper lip. I “poke” the single needle not only in the center of the wrinkle, but along each edge as well. I really “work” on the individual wrinkles on my upper lip hard, because I understand the concept of skin needling ( and you will to if you keep reading my articles).

I bleed the most using this method of needling. It really depends on how deep you go with your single needle if you bleed or not. The deeper you “poke” into your skin, the more you will bleed.

Skin needling is an old method of wrinkle reduction that has found it's way back into the front. Maybe it didn't “take” the first time because it is not a quick fix? I don't really know, but usually women who want to get rid of wrinkles, want them gone yesterday, not a year or more from now.

Skin needling results with any of the skin needling devices take approximately 8 months to 1 year for the final results. You will see results starting at about the second or third month. Everyone is different and you body may react different than mine, so keep that in mind.

Nothing in this article constitutes medical advice of any kind. Skin needling should be performed at your own risk. You should see your doctor or medical health professional before trying any form of skin needling.


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    • profile image

      Musarrath Raboobe 

      20 months ago

      An interesting read

    • profile image


      3 years ago

      Very informative.


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