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What Derma Roller Size Should I Use?

Updated on February 8, 2016

What is Derma Rolling?

Derma rolling is one of the newest and most effective medical techniques applied in resolving skin conditions. These include things like stretch marks, acne and scars which are some of the most frequently complained about in dermatology. Derma rolling which is also referred to as micro needling and collagen induction therapy involves use of stainless steel needles to trigger natural skin tissue to produce collagen and elastin used to resolve most of these issues. The length of the needle is a very important factor in these procedures. This is because each length has its own degree of efficiency as well as possible effects. It is therefore very important to know which needle to use on different patients and different conditions for the best results and lowest risks. Below is a description of the most commonly used needle lengths to help you as a doctor or cosmetic clinician make the best choice for your patient.



Who? This needle length is best used on patients suffering from mild dermatologic conditions such as superficial scars that are not deeper than the epidermal layer of the skin.

When? For the most effective results, the 0.2 mm length needle should be used on a daily basis with either one or two sessions.

How does it work? Due to the small length of the needle, it has little effect on the collagen producing activity of the skin. It is for this reason it has to be done daily. Derma rolling using the 0.2 mm needle length works by improving blood flow to the specific area of the skin. This improves the absorption of other topical treatments for skin conditions. It therefore increases their effectiveness.

0.3 mm

Who? It is most effective when used on patients with mild conditions of the skin usually not going deeper than the epidermis. These patients should also be on other topical treatments as the needle works by improving their absorption.

When? With the 0.3 mm needle, the derma rolling should be done once a day or once every other day for the best results.

How does it work? The 0.3 mm needle works like the 0.2 mm one but has a much deeper reach within the epidermis. This is the reason for the lower frequency of the sessions. The rolling helps to improve absorption of other treatments applied on the skin to resolve mild skin conditions.

0.5 mm

Who? The 0.5 mm length needle is best used on derma rolling for patients with light acne scarring and hyper pigmented patches especially on the face. It is also used as an anti-aging treatment to deal with early wrinkling and loss of skin elasticity.

When? For the best results, the derma rolling sessions should be done once a week. However, if the patient experiences too much pain or discomfort, the rolling should be done once or twice a month.

How does it work? These needles reach the upper part of dermal layer of the skin and trigger collagen production. This is important for elimination of scars and for correcting hyper pigmentation. The needle also triggers elastin production to deal with wrinkles and saggy skin.



Who? This length of needle is best used for patients seeking to solve any skin condition at all. These include stretch marks, acne scars, wrinkles, ordinary scars, hyper pigmentation and large pores.

When? The sessions should be at least one month apart. This is because the needle is much deeper reaching and causes a little pain, discomfort and a little bleeding. The time interval is given to allow the skin to recover.

How does it work? It reaches the dermis layer of the skin and triggers production of elastin and collagen which are important for correction of almost all skin blemish conditions.


Who? The 1.5 mm length needle is best used on patients with hyper pigmentation, stretch marks and deep scars.

When? For the best results the micro needling should be done at intervals of 6 weeks. This is because of the need to allow the patient’s skin to recover from the trauma of pain and bleeding.

How? Like all the other needles that are 0.5 mm and longer, the 1.5 m needle reaches the dermis and triggers production of collagen and elastin to deal with the different skin problems. This length, however, is not recommended for use on facial skin. This is because it is a lot harsher and could cause unnecessary pain and scarring on the delicate skin of the face.


Who? This is also ideal for patients with deep set scars and stretch marks on fleshy regions such as on thighs and buttocks.

When? Due to the harshness of the derma rolling using the 2.0 m length needle, the interval between rolling sessions should be eight weeks. This allows the skin to recover.

How it works? It works like the other needles greater than 0.5 mm long by triggering production of collagen and elastin.



Who? It is a great option for clients with deep scars and wide-spread stretch marks. It is best used on clients with large fat deposits under the skin as it is much deeper reaching and also works by promoting absorption of other topical treatments.

When? This is the longest needle available for derma rolling and as a result is the most painful and causes most bleeding. To allow the skin to recover from this trauma, the rolling should be done once every eight or nine weeks.

How does it work? It works by promoting building of new collagen by skin tissue. Collagen is important for skin strengthening, wound healing as well as smoothening. By triggering its release it helps minimize or even eliminate the scars and stretch marks.

Bottom line

It goes without saying that each needle is absolutely different from the other in terms of effectiveness and area of application. Given this specificity, it is absolutely important to know which one to use every different time. The description above should make it easier for you to choose for the sake of your client’s comfort and overall satisfaction with the results.


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    • livingelysian profile image

      Elysia Valdivia 

      2 years ago from Loveland, Colorado

      Thank you for this. I just received my derma roller and still had no idea how to start using it!

    • FlourishAnyway profile image


      2 years ago from USA

      I have never heard of dermarolling, so this was educational for me.


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