How to Hide a Hangover with Makeup
Partying from dusk till dawn can make you look and feel like a haggard wreck the next day, especially if you've had one too many. But with the right makeup, you can look great even with a mammoth hangover.
You need time to recover from the ravages of overenthusiastic alcohol consumption, so the best time for a night on the town is when you don't have to go anywhere the following day.
If only it were that simple.
Unfortunately, there is such a thing as a spontaneous night out. Or perhaps your schedule doesn't allow for a complete day of rest. This is often the case during the festive season when you're expected to be on top form for days on end while fulfilling countless social obligations.
If you like to party, or if you've got numerous celebrations to look forward to, it might be worth putting together an extra beauty kit just in case you feel obliged to accept a cup too much.
Preparing Your Skin
You need makeup more than ever when you're tired and hungover. The trouble is, it either tends not to go on properly or, if it does, doesn't stay on for very long. It's because alcohol induced chemical reactions within the body lead to dehydration and pH imbalances of the skin.
An aspirin and plenty of water help, but applying a richer moisturizer and more makeup than usual doesn't.
When you're hungover, it's only natural to reach for a heavier face cream to stop yourself feeling dried out, but this is actually the worst thing you can do. It impairs the covering quality of foundation and concealer, and causes eye and lip makeup to smudge and feather. What you really need is an easily absorbed serum to hydrate and plump up skin, followed by a water-based moisturizer (if any), and a foundation primer.
Primer is essential. It improves the surface quality of the skin, providing a better base upon which to apply makeup. It also makes foundation last longer, reduces shadows, and helps to even out skin tone.
You'll need a green color corrector beneath your foundation if your skin is particularly red and blotchy.
Hiding a Hangover with Makeup
Rather than applying more makeup than usual, pay attention to the type of makeup you use and which colors.
The Ideal "Hangover Foundation"
Foundation is a must. The ideal "hangover foundation" keeps skin hydrated, covers blemishes and unwanted shadows (like under eye circles), and has a lot of staying power.
Try a product like Laura Mercier’s Silk Creme long-wear foundation. It's an oil-free cream product with moisture balancing properties and silk proteins.
Silk proteins are amino acids that enable foundation to adhere to the skin, meaning you won't need to fix with powder, which can make your face feel dry and wrinkly when you’re hungover. Because it leaves a matte but luminous finish, you don't even need powder to take off shine.
If you haven't got Laura Mercier's Silk Creme foundation, you can achieve a comparable luminous finish by mixing four parts liquid foundation with one part illuminator. Something like Smashbox's Artificial Light Luminizing Lotion is a good choice. It lends a natural looking glow and won't alter the color of your foundation. After applying, fix with the lightest dusting of translucent powder.
Tinted moisturizers and alphabet creams can also be mixed with illuminator if you prefer these to foundation.
Hiding Dark Circles
If under eye circles show through your foundation, apply concealer. Like your foundation, it should match your skin tone exactly, but be aware that a pink toned product can make dark circles appear blue, which only worsens the problem.
To camouflage particularly dark circles, wear a yellow color corrector beneath your foundation. If you haven't got one, an orange lipstick will also do the trick.
Place highlights at your inner and outer eye corners using a concealer product two shades lighter than your complexion for added freshness and a lifting effect.
Clarity and Sparkle with the Right Eye Makeup
Apart from mascara, keep your eye makeup as light and sparse as possible. If it's too dark or you wear too much, your eyes will appear dull and you'll look and as tired as you feel.
Unlike blue and purple eye shadow, natural tones of brown, beige and peach don't emphasize unwanted shadows and suit every eye color. Apply a darker shade to the crease of the upper lid, and add sparkle by placing a highlight at the arch of the brow and the center of the lid using a very light shade.
Use only matte, powder eye shadow—gloss and satin products accentuate puffiness, wrinkles and fine lines.
A very light or neutral eyeliner applied to the waterline makes tired or red-rimmed eyes look fresher and clearer.
Curl your lashes to make your eyes seem more open and alert, and apply plenty of lengthening mascara. Avoid thickening or volumizing products—these cast shadows, which is the last thing you want when you're hungover. Leave your bottom lashes bare to avoid emphasizing under eye circles.
Wear black mascara to make the whites of your eyes appear whiter.
Blush can give your complexion a healthy-looking radiance, but only if it's very subtle. Depending on your natural skin tone, a light dusting of powder blush in either apricot or a soft rosy pink is all you need. Blush that is too obvious when you're feeling under the weather creates a harsh, 'painted-on' effect.
If you don't own a subtle powder blush, try applying cream blush under your foundation so that just a hint of color shimmers through. Cream blush is always the right choice if you're wearing a tinted moisturizer or alphabet cream instead of foundation.
If you usually take your blush or shading product beyond the apples of your cheeks, your best option is a foundation two shades darker than your natural skin tone. Bronzer and other powder products used for shading and sculpting tend to look messy when you're not up to par. Foundation has a more flattering, subdued effect and is easier to blend.
Lip Colors to Enliven the Complexion
Dark lip colors are always taboo if you're not feeling good, however, a bright lipstick can detract attention from tired eyes.
But if bright colors seem too severe or are inappropriate, lip gloss in pink or apricot can enliven even the dullest complexion while making lips look fuller and moister. Or apply a soft toned lipstick straight from the tube for a breezy, casual look.
A Steady Hand
A hangover makes even the easiest task seem difficult, and putting on makeup with a tremor in your hand can be near impossible. A makeup remover pen, like that by Océane Femme, is the perfect way to clean up smudges and mishaps, particularly around the eyes and mouth. Alternatively, use a Q-tip moistened with eye make-up remover.
Before You Go to Bed After a Night Out
Finally, here are three things you can do before going to bed to make you look a little less the worse for wear the next day:
- Drink plenty of water to counteract the dehydrating effect of alcohol.
- Remove your makeup.
- Sleep with an extra pillow. This promotes lymph drainage, which reduces swelling and puffiness the following morning, especially around the eyes. If your eyes are puffy when you wake up, apply cold tea bags, cucumber slices or potato slices for 15 minutes to reduce swelling.
First image by Mislav Marohnić (CC BY 2.0) via flickr.com [cropped]
Second image by AlexVan (https://pixabay.com/en/colors-makeup-cosmetic-fashion-291851/)
Third image by Stux (https://pixabay.com/en/rouge-structure-fund-brush-reddish-186757/)
© 2014 Jayne Lancer