Mobile Phone Fashion Fun - Make Your Own Accessory
Cell Phone Pouch - Free Crochet Pattern - Fun with Novelty Yarn and Surface Embellishment
An original design created by Sandi Marshall, March 2009
After crocheting the pouch itself, you can have fun decorating it with novelty yarn or another color of the type of yarn that you used for the pouch. The decorating is done with easy chain stitches made along the outside of the basic pouch piece and I've given complete instructions to help you see how to do it.
Closer Look at the Trellis Ribbon Yarn I Used on the Example:
If you have small amounts of any novelty or designer yarns leftover from other projects, this pouch can be a great way to use those up. It could be fun to experiment with different looks for the pouch by trying different types of yarn to make it.
For a pouch that is about 3 1/2 inches wide - Worsted weight yarn with a US size H hook. You will need about 1 oz. for the pouch and a small amount of a contrasting color or novelty yarn for the surface stitch embellishment.
In the example, I used Caron Simply Soft Eco, color Aqua Mist for the pouch and Lion Brand Trellis (a ribbon yarn), color Stained Glass, for the surface stitch embellishing and fringe.
If you want to make a smaller pouch, sport weight yarn with a US size G hook results in a width of about 3 inches.
You can adjust the height with the number of rows that you crochet. In the example (made with worsted weight yarn), I did 18 rows for the front part, resulting in a height of 4 1/2 inches.
Pattern Note - How to Adjust the Height: If you want to make a shorter pouch, to fit the cell phone you will be carrying in the pouch, you can do less repeats of Rows 5 - 7 and then do fewer single crochet rows for the back part also, until the back matches the front in height (you can measure this as you go along by folding the piece at the row with the back loops; there are remaining loops in that row that make that row obvious). By the same token, if you want the pouch to be taller, do an additional repeat of rows 5 - 7 and then match the height of the front piece when crocheting rows for the back.
Abbreviations: ch = chain, chs = chains, ch-2 sp = chain-2 space, ea = each, dc = double crochet, sc = single crochet, sp = space
Pattern Notes: You will turn at the end of each row. These instructions are written in American English crochet pattern terminology.
Row 1 in Progress:
Starting Chain: Leaving a strand dangling that is about 12 inches long (to use later for sewing one of the side edges together), make 16 chains.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, (ch 2, skip next 2 chs, sc in next ch) 4 times, then sc in last ch. Beginners: If you need help understanding what to do for the directions in parenthesis, see my Note For Beginners below the Row 2 instructions.
Row 2 in Progress:
Row 2: ch 1 to turn. sc in ea of first 2 sc, (ch 2, skip next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc) 4 times, then sc in last sc.
Note For Beginners: The part of the row 2 instructions that says to (ch 2, skip ch-2 sp, sc in next sc) 4 times means to do the instructions between ( and ) once, then do those same instructions between ( and ) again, then do those same instructions two more times, so that you have done the instructions between ( and ) a total of 4 times. This is a common way of showing repeats in a pattern, to cut down on the amount of wording on a pattern page.
Row 3: ch 1 to turn. sc in ea of first 2 sc, then (2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc) 4 times, then sc in last sc.
The photo on the right shows 2 sc made in a chain-2 space and an sc made in the next sc.
A Closer Look at the Rows of the Repeats:
Row 4: ch 1, turn. sc in each of first 2 sc, (ch 2, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc) 4 times, then sc in last sc.
Row 5: ch 1 to turn. sc in ea of first 2 sc, (ch 2, skip next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc) 4 times, then sc in last sc.
Row 6: ch 1 to turn. sc in ea of first 2 sc, (2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc) 4 times, then sc in last sc.
Row 7: ch 1 to turn. sc in ea of first 2 sc, (ch 2, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc) 4 times, then sc in last sc.
Rows 8 - 16: Repeat Rows 5 - 7 three times.
Row 17: Repeat Row 6.
Row 18: ch 1, turn. sc in ea sc across. (15 sc)
Row 19 (which begins the part that will be the back of the pouch): ch 1, turn. sc in the back loop only of each sc across. (15 sc in back loops)
Working in Back Loop Only:
Note: Crocheting in the back loops helps the piece to fold easily at this row, when it is time to fold the pouch piece in half.
Working In (Under) Both Loops:
Row 20: ch 1, turn. sc in both loops of each sc across. (15 sc)
Rows 21 - 38: Repeat Row 20.
Slip Stitch in Back Loop of Each Chain to Strengthen:
At the end of Row 38, do not end off yet but continue with the Loop directions.
Slip stitches are used when making the loop. If you need a refresher, this is how a slip stitch is made: insert hook in stitch to be worked, yarn over hook, pull the yarn through the stitch to be worked and through the loop already on the hook, all at the same time.
Loop: Chain 16, slip stitch back in the stitch at the base of the chain-16 just made, then slip stitch in each chain of that chain-16 to strengthen the loop. Slip stitch back in the stitch again at the base of the chain-16 just made.
The purpose of the Loop is for fastening the pouch to something else, using a clip or another fastening device.
How the piece looks before folding and sewing the sides together:
If you wish to also make a strap, chain the number of chains that will give you the length you want for the strap, then single crochet in the first stitch (on the very outside edge) of the top row on the opposite side of the pouch. Slip stitch in the back loop of each chain of the strap, to strengthen the strap, then slip stitch back in the stitch at the base of the strap chain.
When you end off, leave a strand of about 12 inches long to use for sewing the sides together.
Sewing Together: Fold the pouch with right sides held together, so that the remaining loops of Row 19 are on the inside of the folded piece (you will be turning the piece right side out after sewing so that you will have the remaining loops showing on the outside when finished).
Thread one of the strands on a large-eye yarn needle and sew along one of the side edges, sewing through both thicknesses with each stitch, to join the front and back of the pouch side. Repeat this on the other side to join the second side of the pouch.
Weaving in Ends:
Weave in the ends securely. The photo on the right illustrates the steps for weaving in; inserting the needle under stitches equal to about the length of the needle and then pulling the yarn strand through under these stitches. Next, you will go back in the opposite direction by skipping a stitch then inserting the needle back through under some of the same stitches that you already wove the strand through. This secures the strand well.
Next cut the strand near the edge of the last stitch woven under, so there is no remaining strand length left unhidden.
Turn the pouch right side out.
This photo shows how the pouch looks before the surface stitches are added. if you like this look (or if you just don't feel like doing the surface stitches), you might wish to go with the look of the pouch, at this point.
Or you might enjoy playing with the adventure of adding the surface embellishment. In-depth instructions and helpful photos follow, to lead you through the steps of creating your own unique surface-stitched fashion pouch.
Surface Stitch Embellishment:
Leaving a length dangling (for fringe) beyond the first stitch, attach the contrasting color or novelty yarn in the remaining loop at the bottom of the pouch, by skipping the first 2 or 3 remaining loops of that row and attaching in the remaining loop that is directly below the first chain-2 space of the rows above.
Chain a number of chains that allows you to reach the first chain-2 space in the rows directly above (I used 3 chains but you may need a different number of chains to work with the type of novelty yarn you are using). For the rest of these surface stitch embellishment directions, I will just refer to this as "chain to the next chain-2 space" and you will use the number of chains that you have determined will work with the yarn you are using.
Single crochet around that first chain-2 in the row above, then moving directly upward in a straight line, chain to the next chain-2 space (which involves skipping a single crochet row) and making a single crochet around that next chain-2 in the row above.
Continue in this same manner to make the chains to reach the next chain-2 in a row above and doing a single crochet around that chain-2, until you have reached the top of the pouch.
At the Top of the Pouch:
At the top of the pouch, make only 1 chain then single crochet around the chain-2 of the very top row. Next, chain 3 (or a number of chains that works for you) to reach across the top row of the pouch to the next chain-2 of that row. Make a single crochet around that chain-2, then rotate the pouch so that you have a comfortable direction for working back down the front of the pouch next.
Chain 1, make a single crochet around the chain-2 in the next row. Chain to the next chain-2 space and (working in a straight line), single crochet around that chain-2. Continue in this same manner (same way that you did the first line) until you reach the bottom of the pouch again.
Before cutting the yarn, decide upon a length that you will leave for fringe (if you want the fringe to be progressively longer toward the center, then plan for that now). Cut the yarn at the right spot, to leave the length that you want for fringe, then pull the strand through the remaining loop that is in a direct line with the embellishment line of chains that you just made, making a knot around the remaining loop as you do that, to fasten the end in place.
Move to the spot where you will begin the next embellishment line of chains (skip 2 remaining loops after the remaining loop where the last line ended; the next remaining loop is the spot where you will begin the next line).
Make this line in the same way as the first line, working your way up the pouch and then back down again, in one continuous line of chains.
Add any number of extra fringe strands to the rest of the remaining loops on the bottom of the pouch. You can use your crochet hook to pull the fringe strands through the stitches (the photos below for adding a side-edge fringe group use the same principal as you would use for adding a single strand of fringe; these can be helpful to refer to, if you are not familiar with adding fringe using a crochet hook). Trim the fringe ends, if needed, to make them even across (or evenly progressively longer toward the center, if that's the look you want). Tie a knot near the end of each fringe to secure each strand against fraying.
Following is a photo showing an extra fringe group added to one side edge of the pouch. If you like this look, see the instructions after that photo for the steps for adding that fringe group to the left-hand side edge of your finished pouch.
(Optional) Fringe Group on Left-hand Side -
The right-hand side photo above shows the hook inserted through two of the holes on the very side edge, ready to pull a group of fringe strands through those two holes (one of the holes is on the front of the pouch and the other hole is on the back of the pouch, so that the fringe group will be placed on the very side edge). Use any number of fringe strands that will give you the look you want, in a length of your choosing (I used 5 strands about 6 inches long; when folded in half this becomes 10 strands that are a little less than 3 inches long, since the loop made at the top results in each strand being a little shorter). Another idea that I had for a different look would be to braid the fringe group when you have it in place; if you are going to braid it, you'll want to start out with longer fringe, as the braiding will pull the strands up shorter overall.
As shown in the photo that's to the right of this paragraph, after the fringe strand group is pulled through the two holes, that loop is pulled out long enough to easily pull the strands through that loop (use your crochet hook to pull the strands though as a single group, all at once, as indicated in the photo). Next, pull downward on the strands to tighten into a knot (holding it as a single group of strands, so all the strands will be pulled on evenly; not making the knot too tight). Tie a knot near the end of each fringe strand, to keep the ends from fraying.
Personalize It: You might enjoy the look of some beads or a charm or two tied to some of the fringe strands, personalizing the pouch to make it uniquely your own.
If you add this fringe group, you could use the same yarn that you used for the surface stitches and bottom edge fringe or you might get a cool look using a different yarn for the side-edge fringe group. Have fun!
Another Crocheted Cell Phone Pattern That I Designed:
- Single Crochet Texture Small Drawstring Bag or Cell Phone Pouch - Free Pattern With How-To Photos
This small drawstring bag can be used as a cell phone pouch or as a little bag for separating a few things to keep handy, in your purse or backpack. Extra photos give closer looks at how to do parts of the pattern.