I remember Mossman Gorge as a quiet place to stop and have a swim, today it is on most travellers' list, reached only by coaches, and even costs money to see, but the place is still beautiful and the rainforest surrounding it is some of the best in the area.
I used to stop on my trips between Cairns and Port Douglas / Cape Tribulation, for a cool dip on a hot summer's day. There was nobody there as we skinny dipped, then enjoyed the rainforest sounds.
The walking tracks were there, mapped by the National Parks, but hardly used or known for most people. Only somebody with that little more interest, like us, would venture into them.
A few years ago the building of a new boardway, suspension bridge and lookout point started, and by now there is even a new Mossman Gorge Centre with a food outlet and all.
You cannot drive to the gorge anymore, you have to park at the centre and catch a bus. That means you won't be bringing a big picnic lunch, let alone an esky, but despite all, the beauty of the place is still there.
The swimming holes are great so bring your swimmers. And the rainforest walks are some of the best of all in the Daintree area. The massive old trees, roots alone many times of your height, and the sounds, and the feeling of this amazing, ancient rainforest are just magnificent.