Ball Python Care Sheet
85Royal Python
Python regius
The ball python is, also, known as the Royal Python. Both names have their origin. The name "Ball," comes from the snake's tendency to curl into a tight "ball," and the name "Royal" derives from Cleopatra, who supposidly wore the snakes around her wrists.
Ball pythons are a nonvenomous snake that is native to the savannahs and the rain forests of western Africa. They prefer to live in areas of mixed grassland and trees, and are most active at night, spending most of their days hiding in rodent burrows and termite mounds.
Ball pythons are typically light brown-green and black with a tan-yellow underbelly. But, they are available in many morphs such as pie-bald, bumblebee, lesser platinum, mohave, spider, etc.
Books about Ball Pythons
|
The Ball Python (Herpetocultural Library)
Price: $4.81
List Price: $8.95 |
|
The Guide to Owning a Ball Python
Price: $10.82
List Price: $9.95 |
|
Ball Pythons (Reptile Keepers Guide)
Price: $3.85
List Price: $7.99 |
|
The Art of Keeping Snakes (Herpetocultural Library)
Price: $12.06
List Price: $16.95 |
Ball Pythons as Pets
Ball Pythons are one of the best beginner snakes that one can own. They are very docile snakes. Although, as a snake, they have the ability to bite, but very seldom do they.
You should always supervise children when they are handling the snake.
Lifespan of a Ball Python
When kept in an ideal habitat with proper husbandry, ball pythons can live an average of about 20 to 30 years.
To date, the oldest living ball python is recorded at 48 years.
Ball Python Size
Adult ball pythons can range from 3 to 6 feet in length.
The average female will range from 3 to 5 feet, while the average male may range from 2 to 3 feet.
Ball Python Overview
Ball Python Enclosure
Make sure to select a nice glass enclosure that you can fix screen clamps too. Because snakes are wonderful escape artists, you want to be able to fully secure a screen lid on the enclosure.
If you get a baby ball python, do not purchase an aquarium that is too large, as it will overwhelm the snake. 10 to 20 (20"L x 10"W to 30"L x 12"W) gallon aquariums will suffice for snakes that are under 1.5 to 2 feet long.
For adult balls pythons, a minimum of a 30 gallon (36"L x 12"W x 18"T) aquarium will be fine for any male ball python. For females, you may want to purchase something a little larger.
A 40 gallon breeder aquarium works perfect for adult ball pythons.
If you choose to purchase the adult sized enclosure from the start, you may want to invest in aquarium dividers so that you can block off a portion of the cage, as to create a smaller cage size to not stress out the younger snake. But, at the same time, you must remember that snakes are escape artists, and may find a way around this.
Ball Python Set Up
Snake Substrate
It is always recommended to use solid substrates versus loose substrates to prevet the reptile from injesting any of the substrate. You can use paper towels, slate, reptile carpet, or newsprint.
But, if you want a more decorative substrate, you may want to consider aspen, shredded cypress, or fir bark. Just watch any loose substrates, as some will cause humidity levels to rise.
When feeding snakes on loose substrates, you will want to monitor the snake closely, in attempts to prevent any particles from being injested and lodged in the snakes mouth when eating. This can not only cause impaction concerns, but respiratory illnesses, and other health concerns.
As for aspen shavings, monitor any wet spots, which can harbor bacteria and fungal growth, removing it as soon as it is noticed.
Ball Python Set Ups
Snake Decor
Ball pythons, being nocturnal, prefer dark places. Make sure that you have at least one hide that they can use as shelter. You can purchase half logs, use empty cardboard boxes, or just any upside down container, can be used as shelter for a ball python.
Any piece of decoration that is meant for a snake to find shelter, must be large enough for it to fit its entire body. Make sure not to use something that is too big for the snake's size, as they do like to sleep in shelters that are close around them. But, make sure that it is not too small either.
Place a climbing branch in the enclosure. Possibly, even add some fake plants around, or near, the branches.
Make sure to leave room for a water dish that is large enough for the snake to soak in.
Lighting
Lighting is not necessary for a ball python enclosure. But, you can use porcelain and metal reflector hoods to help provide the proper temperatures. At night, you can use red lights or any dark night bulb for viewing purposes or to even out the heat requirements.
Do remember to properly adjust the bulb away from the snake so that it cannot burn itself.
Under Tank Heaters
|
Exo Terra Reptile Desert Under Tank Heater 8W 8"x8" NEW
Current Bid: $13.99
|
|
Zoo Meds Under The Tank Heater Pad - LOOK!!!!
Current Bid: $7.50
|
|
ELECTRIC 2.5 GALLON MINI TANK UNDER SINK WATER HEATER
Current Bid: $139.99
|
|
ELECTRIC 4 GALLON MINI TANK UNDER SINK WATER HEATER NEW
Current Bid: $159.99
|
Heating
The proper air temperatures for ball pythons range from 80 to 85 degrees during the day, with a basking area kept at around 90 degrees.
At night, the air temperatures can be kept around 73 to 75 degrees, with the basking area of no less than 80 degrees.
An under tank heater can be placed underneath the enclosure to provide the snake with belly heat necessary for proper food digestion. Do watch out for the temperatures with these heating pads, as they can reach temperatures up to 20 degrees higher than necessary. Using a thermostat will help control the temperatures.
Do not use hot rocks, as they can cause serious thermal burns.
You should never guess the temperatures within the enclosure. Snakes that are too cold, won't eat, and those that are too hot will become ill, and possibly die.
Invest in a digital thermometer with a probe to accurately assess the temperatures.
Humidity
Because ball pythons are native to temperate, arid areas, the enclosure should reflect that. You should maintain an enclosure that is at about 50% humidity.
Make sure to use a hygrometer to measure the humidity levels in the enclosure. When shedding, you can increase the humidity to 60 to 65%. But, you should not have to raise the humidity within the enclosure to assist shedding; if you bathe them in a warm bath the day their eyes clear, they should shed completely within 24 hours.
Ball Python Feeding
Ball Python Diet
Ball pythons are constrictors, which means that they subdue their prey by coiling around them in order to suffocate it.
Before you first try to feed your snake, allow it to acclimate to its new home for at least one week.
You can start snakes that are about 15" in length with one pre-killed fuzzy mouse. Smaller sized snakes may require smaller mice. Older snakes may be fed larger, pre-killed mice or rats.
It is always recommended to feed frozen rodents because they can cause serious damage to you snake.
Ball pythons can be very picky eaters, and they can go without food for several months. But, if you notice that you ball python is loosing significant weight, you need to consult a reptile veterinarian who can assist you with force feeding your snake (something you shouldn't try alone, especially if you do not have any experience doing it).
Make sure to provide a water bowl in the snake's enclosure. Ball pythons will both drink and soak, possibly even defecate in the water bowl, which is why it needs to be checked daily.
Soaking is good just before a shed. When they eyes clear from their milky or "blue" state, soak the snake in a tub of warm water for ten minutes or so, then lightly dry it off, and return it immediately to its tank; it should shed within twenty-four hours.
PrintShare it! — Rate it: up down [flag this hub]
Comments
I agree! They are by far my favorite snake!
Thank you.
EEEK! Give me one with legs and feet...better yet a lizard. I just can't get into having a snake of any type as a pet let alone a restrictor. Yet that is one of the reasons I gotten into breeder mice, crickets and kingworm.
Awesome HUB Whitney as always
regards Zsuzsy
should i put the water pool on top of the heater for the ball python. yes, no?
No. If you do, the water will evaporate faster.
i'm getting a ball python YA it rocks along with my chilean rose haired tarantula and my normal sub-adult corn snake lol !!!!!!!!!11111
IF YOU HAVE 2 SNAKES SHOULD YOU FEED THEM SEPERATELY?
Yes you should feed them separately.
My ball has problems shedding his eye caps. At first I thought this was an issue concerning the humidity, but humidity typically ranges from 50 - 58%. I've also tried warm soaks and mistings, as I don't want to try physically rubbing the eye caps off. I noticed a few sprays in the pet store last time I was buying rats... have you ever used any of these, and do they actually work? If not, any other methods?
ALso, because of the humidity, is this issue possibly related to nutrition (lack of vit. D perhaps)? Should I be adding more vitamins to his water and powder to the rats (if so, which ones are recommended?)
Jarrod if the retained eye caps are from the last shed, let them be and he may shed them with the next shed. If they are still there after the next shed, you'll need to remove them.
What you may consider is when you notice that he's going to shed soak him in warm water once a day until he sheds. This should loosen the skin for him to easily remove it.
Does he have a problem shedding every time, or just this last time? If its frequent, you may consider the sprays, although I've never used them.
You can increase humidity in the tank by keeping a water bowl large enough for him to soak in.
There is really no need to add vitamin powder to the rats, as if the rats are properly fed and housed before feeding, they should be healthy enough for your snake to get all the nutrients he needs from the rat's muscles, bones, etc. If you're feeding frozen, because you cannot guarantee the life of the rat beforehand, make sure that the rats have not been in the freezer for prolonged periods because the longer they are in the freezer, the more nutrients they lose. Same with drops in the water; the only drops that you should put in the water are de-chlorinateing drops. (Not fish drops, there is a brand that manufactures drops for reptile water, but I forget what brand it is.)
It's a recurring problem, and the retained eye caps generally carry through from shed to shed, which is why I was asking about nutrition. I feed him Gourmet Rodent brand frozen rats... it's the only available option since PetCo ran the independent shop out of town, so I have no information as to the quality of their product aside from the "guarantees" from Gourmet Rodent that it's the best possible option to feed your snake... naturally. :)
I also have him in a large, homemade enclosure and there is a rather large water bowl which is more than enough for him to fully submerge himself in, yet he's not really a water kind of guy. He only has problems with the eye caps and the scales near them, the rest of him sheds fine. I soak him for a while once I notice the skin becoming opaque. Maybe I'll try the sprays. But if not, what's the most gentle way to physically remove the eye caps? Moist towel and light rubbing?
Thanks for responding so quickly!
Since it's a reoccuring problem, you need to make sure that your habitat is accurate. Retained eyecaps can occur because of too low or hot temperatures, low humidity, dehydration, and systemic bacterial or parasitic infections. You may consider taking the snake to a reptile vet if your temperatures are accurate. Remember that the stick on thermometers are not accurate by any means, even if placed on the surface. You want to test the temps with a digital thermometer with a probe.
I'm not a big fan of Gourmet Rodent, although I do buy their frozen feeders (only because it's the cheapest frozen rodents in town.) They company is not the most reputable in regards to their reptiles, frequently having multiple parasites, but I haven't heard anything like this in regards to their frozen foods.
You do want to watch out because snakes can get ill from sick feeders. So, if your temps are accurate, you really may consider a vet check up. You may be required to bring a recent fecal sample to check for parasites.
You can try this method to remove the eyecaps (it's from anapsid):
Soak the snake in a warm bath for 10-20 minutes. Remove from bath and dab mineral oil (available from drug or grocery store) on each eye with a cotton-tipped swab. Return snake to tank.The retained shed should come off within 24 hours. If it doesn't: Wrap your four fingers with scotch-type tape, sticky side out and GENTLY touch the tape to the eye and rock the tape across the eye, from nose to neck.
If this doesn't work, wait until the next shed. Then, the day that the eyes clear from being opaque, soak the snake in a warm bath. Return to enclosure. When the snake starts working on loosening and removing the head shed, get in there and assist, gently working the shed back over each of the eyes, keeping the shed moist, to make sure both eyecaps are removed.
Do not use forceps, tweezers or other sharp, hard, pointed objects to try to remove the shed from the eye!
Dented eyes are common in snakes that are dehydrated or who have previously retained eye sheds. Thus, the eyecap may appear to be still on the eye when it fact it was shed off. Always check the sheds to see if the eyecaps have in fact shed.If you are unable to easily get the shed off, get the snake to an experienced reptile vet. Injuries can occur all too easily due to forcible removal and infections can develop under the retained shed. These are not treatable at home - they must be examined by a reptile vet
my ball is haveing problems sheding at randomn points on its body and will only eat 1 adult mouse a week. now I think this is fine and he will get ofer it in time it is just the condidtions he was kept in in the pet store. he is the most loveing snake I have ever had when I open his lid he comes to my hand and loves to be around my neck even thogh he is just 26 inches and I was wondering what I could do to help him shed more easaly next time. I bathe him daily when he sheds. e-mail me n e solutions at ninja06900@yahoo.com thanx
Make sure that the the temperature in the tank is accurate. Make sure that the humidity is fine. Yout need to have a water big enough for him to soak in. Also, consider that parasites may be a cause if the husbandry is accurate. Too low temps can cause lack of appetite and shedding problems, same with parasites.
This is one of the best hubs i've ever read. I asked you a question in a forum thread but that's been answered here, so don't worry about it! I'm definitely going to get a BP now...
I'm sorry. I haven't seen the question, but I will go find it... Just remember the problem with ball pythons is that they are VERY picky eaters and tend to go without more than they go with.
Hey i have a ball python and it will not digest all the way any suggestions. Please email me at hardrockerchick14@yahoo.com
Thanks YOU!
I have emailed you, but in case anyone else have the same or similar question, I'll answer it here as well...
If the snake is having problems digesting its food and this is a continuous problem that it's had for a while, you need to seek help of a reputable reptile vet.
hey i am looking to buy a ball python and i was wondering if u had any suggestions on websites that are trustable(if thats even a word). plus, i would like to know how to convince my mom that a ball pythin would be a great pet. ive told her everything i know about them, including the fact that they can be picky eaters and i need to get a larger cage for when its an adult. I also may need some additional information about how to set up my cage so the snake is as comfortable as it can be. please let me know.
Thanks!!
Jeremiah
gtrarmstrong@aol.com
Jeremiah, I'm not sure how to convince your mom to get a snake, but as for the enclosure, just make sure that the snake has enough room to get around and not feel cramped. Too much decor can cause stress on the snake because he'll feel cramped. Stick with 2 hides (1 on the hot and 1 on the cool side), and a water bowl large enough for hte snake to sit in.
ok thanks lol do you know of any good snake sites that sell baby ball pythons?
check out kingsnake.com and google ball python breeder.
WaresIronBalls.com is a good breeder.
Also, check out the classifieds section on geckoforums.net
You should really make sure that it's ok with your mother before you get a snake. Most of these places require that you be at least 18 or have your parent talk to them. You want to make sure that if you get a snake you won't have to turn around and get rid of it, as that is completely unnecessary stress on the snake to move it around so much.
Oh, and you will need a larger cage when it's a juvie not adult.
PLEASE. IM 12 AND IM GETTING A BALL PYTHON BUT MY PARENTS AREENET SURE. iKNOW YOU WERE A KID SOMETIME SO CAN HELP ME CONVINCE THEM? ALSO HOW CAN I MAKE IT AT HOME? LASTLY I LOVE THIS PAGE AND IF YOU MAKE MORE LIKE THIS ID BE STOKED. THANKS
I have tons of reptile hubs that you can read. I is very hard to convince your parents to get a snake. becuase you ar 12 you kind of have to listen to your parents. I'm not sure what you mean "how can I make it at home?"
I found tiniy black balls in his water bowl. Does anyone know what these are?
Could be bugs of some sort.
Hi im getting a ball python soon and I was wondering what is the normal price for a baby ball python?
regular ball pythons can range from $15 - $80 depending on where you purchase it.
i have fed my ball 3 fuzzies in the past 2 weeks...i just got it-and it still has digested....its 3 feet long--am i not feeding enough?? should i get mice?
How old is the BP? How much does it weigh? At 3 feet, I would assume that 2 fuzzies is a snack, and the snake is being underfed. You could probably do small rats.
i dont know...the people i got it from didnt know the sex...didnt feed it....clean it- i feel as if i saved it in time. its is very friendly tho. the weight- i would think a few pounds. help!!!
hey i just got my baby ball and she is about 3 weeks old. she is a little more than a foot long. i have her in a 20 gallon long tank. i have the temperature around 85 and the humidity around 70% during the day. i have the shredded coconut husk as substrate. i have a hide in the cooler side of the cage and a water bowl in the hot side. I just dont know what the temp and humidity should be at night. Help!
And also am i missing anything? i feel like i have everything.
now see, i heard at that age/size, they shouldnt have alot of extra room. i hope someone can help ya!
o damn i just saw the humidity section. i just let my humidty fall to about 55-60. i hope thats ok. and about the tank thanks jeff. the girl at the store said it would be fine for a while tho. plus i wont have to upgrade for a while.
jeff, just bump up the feedings- the age/sex really doesn't matter. i'd have a vet check it out just to make sure it's all good.
jeremiah, i'd switch to aspen versus the coconut. make sure the water bowl is on the cool side, and the 20 gallon is fine for that snake. If you DO notice stress, purchase a 10 gallon, as that IS recommended. Don't always believe what a pet tore employee tells you. 20 gallon can be ok, but it can stress out some snakes. I prefer to wait, but it's up to you. I would also bump up the temps a little. I don't worry about the night temps. just turn off the light and leave the uth on, and you should be fine.
Hello me again!
My ball python ate a couple times since I've had it. I had a lot of problems with feeding it and you helped me out with that and now he eats very willingly. I simply think he didn't see it as food. Anyways I was supposed to feed him again this week but he has started shedding. I noticed all the signs right away and it looked good, but then I started seeing problems. The skin behind his head was peeling back, but the tip of his tail was also peeling. It just stayed that way for a few days and now today I noticed that the shed will not be regular. He has most of the skin of his underside gone, but now his entire back and sides still have skin on it. He is rubbing against things and he seems very agitated about it; bumping his head on the cage, on the hide log, water bowl, etc. I have soaked him a few times and he seemed to enjoy that alot but it doesn't seem to be helping much. Any other suggestions for the next time, or maybe things I should check about the cage? Thanks!
Kallie
Check the humidity, it doesn't sound like you have it right. Also go ahead and check the temperature as that could be off as well. Also make sure to have a water bowl that is big enough for the snake to lay in.
The humidity says tropical and the temp is 80F. The water bowl is big enough also. I fed him because he was going around the cage as if searching and he ate. Now he is just kind of sitting in one area, I just fed him yesterday so he's probably just digesting his food. In a few days do you think I can try to rub back the skin if it's not gone? It comes off very easily when I touch it so I didn't know if that could harm him or not...
You need to up the temperatures. I would let him be for a few days. soak him and gently use a q-tip or somthing to try to rub it off. if he continues to have shedding problems you will want to consult a vet.
Ok thanks. How high should I raise the temp? I'm just using an UTH and a lamp for a light source... I suppose I could add another lamp or purchase a heat lamp. Any suggestions?
hey my snake just got bit when i fed her. it isnt bad it is just bleeding a tiny bit. it should be fine but what should i do?
Kallie, up the I would not add another lamp, as you are going to start an electrical fire. lol. Try upping the wattage of the bulb.
Jeremiah, I wouldn't worry about it for now, but keep an eye on it, watching for infection.
I am about to get a Ball Python. I have a 30 gallon tank, an undertank heater, a feeder dish, substrate, shelter(hiding spot), and frozen feeder mice. Is there anything else I need? Do I really need a "blue" light for light and do I need a "red" light for him to bask in? He is a baby, only about 9-10 inches long.
you don't necessarily need lights except to create a day/night scenario. i would just get a regular light instead of a night light (the blue and red ones). Also, at that age, you may want to consider getting a 10 gallon tank; sometimes babies can get stressed in larger enclosures.
i have a ball python she poops all the time and here lately when she poops blood has been coming out is this a big problem?
I would say yea it probab is a probaly. I'd consult a vet. It could be dehydration, or it could be something more.
Hey I have a BP shes about a year old. She feeds great and sheds perfectly. I was just wonduring if I can keep more then one BP in a tank. If i just got new hatchlings can i keep them all in a 25Gallon tank or should i keep em seperate untill I can sell them? please answe.
Thank you!!
Arthur.
It is not recommended to house multiple snakes of any species in the same enclosure. If you want another BP, I'd recommend a second enclosure. Hatchlings should also be kept seperate. I'm not sure how experienced you are with selling reptiles, but BPs are pretty had to sell unless you have a high dollar/high quality morph. Otherwise, you will be competing with tons of other BP breeders at pretty low prices.
hello, I have a young bp that i just got about a week ago. everything is fine with it, eats good , very playful. my concern is the temps at night. daytime heat is around 86-90 hum. is abouy 60% i keep a 60 watt light on him during the day with a under tank heater. so daytime is good (I think). but night time here in northern michigan get pertty cold out side. my temps fall into the 73 degree range on the hot side and 68 to 70 on the cold side. I just picked up a 75 watt blak light for the night today. Are them temps at night ok or harmful to him. THANK YOU ptfd18@yahoo.com
If you THINK that the temps are good, then you're not using proper means to measure the temps. You want to KNOW that the temps are good. Buy a digital thermometer with a probe to accurately read the temps in the enclosure. I'd say 73 would be ok. Just make sure that you can accurately read the temps, and don't let them fall below 75 if possible at night.
my bp is about 24" and i had had him only a week today. he seems to "yawn" 2 to 3 time a day. no open mouth breathing, or anything like that. he just yawns is this normal? also the top of his head is changing to a dull blueish white is this a sign that he is starting a shed or is something wrong. i did get a digital thermometer today and my temps are (daytime) 88 on the hot side and 78 on the cool side ill check the nightime temps tonight. THANK YOU
Yawning is fine. The snake is probably going to shed, hence the blue tint on the head. The key will be the blue eyes. That's great you got the digital thermometer. You'll be able to keep a good eye on the temps.
OK, i think i know how it happened already- but i think my snake has mites. tiny little black bugs hiding underneather her scales. I never noticed them before, and i just noticed them today. i think its because i left the mice colony cage too close to my snakes cage and the mites came out of there. I think all i need to get is some mite-rx or whatever its called, and clean out her cage- again. i just did it last friday. ill go to the store and buy some of that aspen stuff you told me about a while ago. I must say this is a really helpful hub page.
Jeremiah
Jeremiah, you may want to check out this hub about snake mites:
Hello, my bp is starting a shed. his eyes started out a bule color, but now are more of a silver color. could this be eye caps left over from his last shed. or is this normal. also the hum. is 54% in his cage but in his hide box it in upper 60% range. (68%) i started soaking him twice a day in a warm bowl aof water. will this help or not. THANK YOU FOR UR HELP
It could be retained eyecaps. I wouldn't worry about it unless the eyes are still silvery after this upcoming shed. Sometimes they will shed a retained eyecap
OK, now my bp eyes have cleared up for the most part, still a little blue silver color. but today he has dents in his eyes, i soaked him for about 20 mins. and the dents went away. he still has not shed yet. im not sure what is going on. the hum. is 55-56% in the cage and 69% in his hide box. i added a bigger bowl of water to the cage trying to raise the hum. some more. the temps are 88-90 on the hot (daytime) 84 @ night. cool side are 79 daytime and 75 night. SORRY to keep asking you for advice,But thank you for answering so quickly. THANK YOU Steve ( sooner or later i will get him figured out)
well i got rid of the mites and she seems to be a little pissed off still. she wont really come out of her hide even at night. although i think the only problem is that i fed her after i sprayed her for mites. anyways, thanks. she should be back to normal in about a week.
It takes more than one treatment to fully get rid of mites.
well i was going to do it again anyways just to be sure, plus i switched to paper towels instead of coconut husk. i think thats what she got them from.
That's good then. Definitely do it a few times just to make sure.
i will i need to get to the pet shop to get more mite-icide. probablt tommorow or something
hello, my bp cage has aspen shavings in it. idont feed him in the same cage. but today my bp had some wood chips in his mouth. if he swolled any i dont know. what should i be looking for if he did. and what should i do if he did. will they pass?
If this is the only time, then it shouldn't be a problem. I'd jsut suggest that you watch the snake closely to see if he passes the chips.
This is mostly true, except for maintaining humidity and the undertank heater. I worked at a pet store for quite a while and we never misted our ball pythons(misting is what maintains humidity). We also didn't use undertank heaters. They aren't enough to provide the snake with efficient heat, also they can crack your tank and cause the snake burns. I have had my own ball python for about 8 months and I've never used an undertank heater or misted her, except for when she's shedding.
You shouldn't mist a ball python. Never said that you should. I just said that you need to keep the humidity at certain levels, which can be achieved by a large water bowl.
You do need under tank heaters, but that doesn't mean that they alone can heat all sized tanks, which is why a light is always an option. But, lighting alone, typically isn't enough to heat the enclosure properly either.
Personally, my UTHs ALWAYS heat the enclosures properly and efficiently, and most of the time, too much, which is why they are all on monitors to adjust to the proper temps when need be.
As for cracking your tank. Sure it can happen, which is why you raise the tank to give breathing area for the heat to escape which will in turn prevent stress cracks. Read the instructions on the package, and they'll explain that to ya. There are so many reasons as to why under tank heaters are efficient in heating and beneficial to your snake that it's not even funny.
Remember that for the most part they are terrestrial, which means the surface temperatures provided only by the under tank heater, will help with digestion. The lights alone, typically only heat the air, which will do nothing towards the snake's digestive system. It can also cause other illnesses if your temperatures are not accurate.
There's no need to mist her when shedding, a simple soak is enough.
Also, your whopping 8 months of caring for one and PET STORE experience, is nothing compared to years of experience. Remember that pet stores generally don't care for their reptiles 100% as they should, and just because yours doesn't do things doesn't mean that it's the right way to care for the reptiles. All larger pet stores that I've asked use under tank heaters for their reptiles in addition to lights, all monitored by high tech computers to ensure that the temps are accurate. Even small mom and pop shops use UTHs for their snakes, at least in my town. All breeders use UTH, as well. It's the right way to heat an enclosure.
Also, if you've read any books, you'll find that the humidity that I've listed above, is what is recommended by most authors, which are typically breeders and long term caretakers of the species.
Purchase a digital thermometer with a probe and test the temps that your snake is experiencing at the bottom of the tank where he sleeps and lies. You'll find that with a regular UTH, the temps can get up to the 100s and above, whereas without you'll be lucky to get into the 80s. UTHs typically provide too much heat, which again can be monitored and adjusted with thermostats and even rheostats (to some degree, but rheostats are not the best as they're more towards dimming lights and not altering the heat input of a UTH).
As long as you purchase a good under tank heater, you should have NO problems reaching proper temperatures. The best being Zoo Med.
I have had a BP for about 2 months. She is approximately 1 year old. We bought her from the pet store and realized after a month she had mites. We successfully rid her of the mites but now fear she is suffering from dehydration. She is starting to shed but sheds in pieces and has strong vertical wrinkles that makes her body look loose and skinny. I have up'd the humidity to 80 and the temps of the warmer part of her tank is 80-85. She is much less active and stays hidden most of the time. Is this normal for a sheding snake that probably was under stress as we treated her for mites.? Suggestions?
Try to soak her a few times a week in regular water. You may want to purchase an electrolyte, but try the soaks first. You want to up the temps on the warm side, too. That could be why she's not very active- too low temps.
Hello, My husband has 2 ball pythons. He spends no time with them. I am not a snake person, but I am the one that feeds them. I breed my own mice, too, to feed them. I noticed the other night the one was making these noises. I called my husband to listen to her, but that was like pulling teeth. Anyway, I got on a couple sites to see what she maybe doing and it seems she maybe having a respiratory problem. I turned up the heat pad under her tank to help a little, but I was wondering what else I could do to help her until I can get her to a vet on Monday. It is so hard to get an appointment around here where I live even if it's for a cat or dog. Especially on a weekend. He doesn't seem to be concerned. I don't like snakes, but I don't want her to suffer either.
It does sound like respiratory concern, and by upping the temps in the enclosure that should help a little. Definitely have a vet check it out Monday, if you can though.
hey my ball python(female) has a what looks like a muscle from her inner eye showing. I know its not skin because i already took off the caps but while i was holding her a peice of skin from her eye( attached to her eye) got stucks in the blanket and she pulled but her eye seems a little crooked now and emmedeiatly after she pulled her eye got that white muscle showing. Is she ok?
I think that you should contact a reptile vet. I'm not sure what to tell you, as I can't really even picture what you're talking about. Is there any way that you can take a picture, upload and host it online, and then post a link so that I can see what you're talking about.
Hey I am asking my parents for a ball python for christmas..but I am worried that I wont give it enough care that it needs..I have taken care of two ball pythons @ school (Bubba&Buttons!) But they seem like hard work..OH and whats all this stuff about humidity how do i get humitity into the tank? Oh and which do you think is easier ball pythons or corn snakes? And which are better or beginners? This would be my first snake. What kinda pet stores do you recomemnd where I live we have Petco Jacks Aqarium and Pets Pet Supplies Plua and others..Plz RESPOND!
First off, if you don't think that you can give proper care, then you shouldn't ask for the pet. It's good that you have some experience, but you already said it was hard work and you don't think that you can do it. Don't put yourself in the position of caring for an animal if you don't think that you can do it properly. Continue doing your research.
I wouldn't recommend getting a reptile from a pet store period. None of those are good options. Try a breeder.
i have a BP and he or she is about a year old. Its about 2 feet long. my cousin got it for me as a b'day gift. I am not very experienced when it comes to handling and carin for snakes. I have him in a 20 gallon aquarium with a hollowed log for him to hide in, a rough rock to slither on, water bowl, heating pad on the left side of the cage, and a branch with some fake leaves on it. Also, i use Repti-bark on the bottom. how should i set everything up in his tank? Should I have something under the bark like a pad or something so he doesnt get burnt by the heating pad on the glass? Also, how many times and what should i feed him?
The snake needs a larger tank to start. You'll need to remove the reptile bark and replace it with reptile carpet or aspen. The UTH should be fine as long as you have the tank properly vented so that the tank isn't flat on the surface of whatever you've got it sitting on (this will cause stress cracks if the UTH can't breathe so to speak).
As for feeding, if you leave the loose bedding in the tank, make sure to remove the snake for feedings. With a reptile carpet you can let the snake feed in its tank.
You want to feed a frozen mouse or rat depending on the widest girth of the snake. Never go larger than the largest girth of the snake. It's better to feed smaller prey than larger. I'd go with maybe one small rat once a week, or a few mice once a week. Every other week would probably suffice as well. It really depends on when the snake will poo out the meal, as to the frequency. Try to keep it constant though.
Okay well..now that I have researched some more I dont feel the same about the difficulty. Trying a breeder..Okay..do you know the price range for a ball python??
That's good that you think so. With a breeder for a normal/standard BP with no hets, you're probably going to pay about 20-50 plus shipping unless you go to a reptile show, or have a breeder near you that will let you do a pick up. Some breeders will charge more, but some may charge even less. It will depend.
Okay! thats not so bad! Thanks for your help!
He sleeps a lot right now, that's normal for them right now, right?
magmoodle, if you have any other questions just ask.
Justin, they are nocturnal and will sleep nearly all day while you are awake, and will be up all night. I'm not sure what you mean by right now, as that will be the case for the rest of the snake's life- it will sleep throughout the day until it dies of old age or illness. Honestly in my opinion, ball pythons are one of the most boring of the pet snake species, but it's just one of many that sleep during the day and it is one of the better beginner snakes. Make sure that you have clamps on the cage as they WILL get out without them, and the last thing you want to wake up to is a missing snake.
I just got my ball python and its about 7 monthes old, it was feeding on frozen mice befor i got it but i just fed it recently (friday) its first live mouse, and it did great it ate if perfectly but now its been two days and it wont come out of its hiding spot on the cooler side whice is about 55-60, my question is shouldnt he be on the hotter side digesting or is he fine there?
haha. now that you told me I feel dumb. I forgot they were nocturnal.
He is getting bigger though. I fed him two small feeder mice today for the first time and he ate them right up and went along with his business. I also got him a better hiding/sleeping spot that he seems to be enjoying. Anyways, thank you for your help and I'm sure i will be on here again some time soon. Roll Tide.
P.S. I love that pitbull in your picture, he or she is beautiful.
I have two pitbulls, one is old and fat, the other one is her son.
Brittany, he should be on the hot side. I'm curious why you decided to switch him to live, when he was eating perfectly fine on frozen? It's much safer to feed frozen.
Justin, If you have any other questions, just ask. It's a she, and thank you.
I just got a ball python and it had already started the shedding at pet store i have noticed that it still has skin over 2 thirds of its body and some on the head. I am not sure if the eye caps have come off since it is shedding in pieces. How can you tell and how long should I give the snake till I need to start helping with the shedding.
I have started shedding my snake and it is going pretty good I just cant get it to hold still to get its head. I know you dont like pet store animals but this snake has been so active and has been pretty good about me helping get skin off. my question is what is a good way to get skin off the head when it wont let you? other than that from what I have read and I have read a bunch it seems like it is a pretty heathy snake. tounge is flickering like crazy and it likes exploring even all over my body. I love this snake ball pythons rock any info you can give that you havent already would be appreciated, thanks
Try just soaking the snake in warm water and seeing if the skin l come off. Hold the snake right beind the head and try to gently rub it off after the soak. Typically 100% healthy snakes will shed thoroughly, so just keep a watch out.
hey,
just purchased a ball python bout 2ft long and also a red-tailed columbian boa.. is it cool to have them is same tank cuz i did get them from pet store and they were in same tank already... its just in my tank it is 6ft 120fallon tank... 3qtrs of it made for snake the other qtr of tank is water for turtle... is all this cool??
the ball python loves goin in the water part of the tank... i would say it goes in the water part 2x's a day... it seems like he loves it i just wanna make sure if i need to keep a close eye on it or if its cool for my lil uy... also is it ok for the boa although the boa has not shown much interest in the water section on tank yet... just wanna try to take care of my 2 snakes as best as possible...
thx for your time and your response when it comes
doeboy, it is a BAD idea to keep them in the same tank. just becuase the pet store did it, doesn't mean that it's a good thing to do. You want to separate them as soon as you can, meaning the minute you read this comment. also consider, setting them up in smaller tank as it can stress them out to be in such a large tank. you also do NOT need to separate the tank into a snake/turtle tank. the red tail will need that full tank plus a larger one when it's an adult. plus, but doing that you will not be able to ensure proper enclosure requirements for hte turtle on one half, and the other two species on the other. Ball pythons and red tails have slightly different enclosure requirements, and you should NEVER house two species in the same enclosure.
if you want to care for them as best as possible, SEPARATE them! ha. it's fine for the BP to go in the water, but if you have a turtle in that side, I wouldn't recommend it. you are sharing parasites and other health problems by allowing all three to conside.
Hey Whitney - I just wanted to say thank you for all the information you provide. I recently purchased a BP for my son's 12th birthday and he loves it. The BP is great with my son and visa versa. The only issue I am currently having is the humidity. Dont know why but its normally about 30% so I purchased a zoo-med cool fogger to assist and so far so good. I put it on a timer and have it set to go on for 30 minutes every two hours. Any other suggestions? Thanks
Watch out for too much humidity. I think that the fogger may cause too much humidity in the tank. Typically if you have a larger sized water bowl, that should be enough. what are you measuring the humidity with?
I worked an entire summer with a beautiful ball python. By far my favourite snake, which is really a feat since I was once studying to be a herpetologist! Great hub, Whitney!
my ball python that i have had for a while just burnt himself on his under-the-tank heater. he shed but he still has a brown strip on his belly. is he ok? and i have been noticing lately when he sheds, he doesnt smell to great. we dont have a vet that knows much about snakes around here. he seems happy when i hold him and other than the burn hes healthy. hes been a bit groggy because its winter time and just shed. i was wondering what i could do for him. i have the heater off and have been using a heat lamp. should i bath him alot to help his belly (and his smell) the closest vet for a snake is a 4 hr drive away, so i want to make sure its not somthing i can take care of myself first b4 i drive in all this snow we have been getting. could you pleaze e mail me at Hellhoundusmc@hotmail.com with your advice?
You don't really want to turn the under tank heater off, unless you are 110% that the light alone is providing proper temps. Sometimes the light cannot get the right temps. That could be anothre reason why he's out of the norm for disposition. How bad is the burn? Sometimes a minor burn will just take normal time to heal. If you can take a picture, and upload it to an online hosting site like photobucket, and post a link to the picture (not an embedded picture link). I can check it out and hopefully help the best I can. I'm not sure about the smell; again I'd think it would depend on the temps in the enclosure by just the light alone and the extent of the burn.
I posted in your feeding page, but now I have a question with the substraites I am now using. I have purchased Reptile Calcium Substrait and it is supposed to be actually good for the reptiles to have. I can monitor the humidity and temp at all times and he has a large water bowl for him to soak in.
I have read many different things and so far it seems that I have made a bad decision. It is saying that this Sand-like substrait can be bad for a ball python and can cause dehydration and such. He actually seems to like it and is sliding around his cage right now more than usual and climbing over the pet branches and logs in there.
Should I remove the bedding I am using and go back to the other stuff, or is this ok? I know my friend had sand bedding while she had her ball python and her's seemed fine. I just don't want my snake to get ill!
Thanks!
respritory infections can i get some more helpfull hints as to what to do for my bp i notice open mouth breathing and the poping noise in her breathing but havent seen the liquid coming out of her mouth yet and hope not to i read your response to another question that turning up the heat a little will help i will b getting a digital therm and hydrometer for her asap i have a uth big bowl hiding spot and another half log for climbing and i am using a towel for substrate i thought the open mouth breathing was her telling me she was hungry but when i went to feed her she refused so i went online to look up info on bp s and stumbled on this site and from what iread researching you are telling people right so i figured id ask about things to do to help with a respritory infection
Kallie, I will answer your question in both places. You do NOT want to use sand with a BP. Some snakes are ok with sand as the substrate, but you do not want to house a BP on the substrate. Plus, in general calcium based substrate is not good for any reptile as it will greatly increase impaction risks for desert reptiles. You want to use aspen bedding or reptile carpet for your BP.
Deamon chyild, sounds like yeed to visist a reptile vet ASAP!!! up the temps a little.
Hey, my mom has had a ball python for a while and it is starting to get little black spots on it's back half and we don't know why. They don't move so we don't think they're mites. What could this be? some other parasite maybe? :(
THANKS,
Alice
I'm not really sure. It could be ticks, or something along that nature. You may want to consult a reptile vet.
I just got a baby ball python, its about 1-1.5ft long. I keep the light on one side and the heating pad on the other. Should I put the heating pad on the same side as the light or keep it the same?
They should be on the same side of the tank, so that you can have a clear hot and cold side.
Another thing I bought frozen mice from the store and thawed one out to feed him but he doesnt seem interested in it at all. I tried dangling it around with chop sticks but it doesnt seem to want it. Do you think this is because he is not hungry or maybe he would prefer live mice.
Once you thaw the mouse can you freeze it again if he doesnt want it?
Once thawed, you need to throw it away. Do no refreeze the mouse. You will need to try more than once, sometime it takes snakes who are not used to feeding on frozen a good bit to start feeding. What size snake is it? Also, what size mouse. Sometimes, some snakes even prefer to just eat at their own time. I've known many people who have to thaw out the mouse, and leave it in the tank to feed overnight, but that only works if you're not using aspen or a loose bedding. Sometimes you have to dry off the frozen mouse as some snakes don't like wet food. Try dipping in tuna juice then drying it off. Try heating it with a hair dryer after thawing to make sure that it's really hot.
There are many methods of getting a snake to eat thawed. I would try all of those methods before you try live.
The snake is about 1.5 ft long and the mouse is about 3-4inches Albino Feeder mouse I think its called.
Hm.. That should be fine. I would jsut keep trying frozen.
Hello Whitney ,
I was searching on the internet for snake help on Ball Pythons and I came across this lovely page. This information was quite needed by me . I learned many things! Anyway , I have a year and 6 month old , 12 1/2 inch Ball Python . He is beautiful and I have had him since he was around 6 months old. He used to eat every week to two weeks and now every time I have tried to feed him a frozen or live mouse , he won't eat . He hasn't eaten in 3 months. I know they can go a while without eating but now his eyes are milky but other than that he has no signs of shedding . I keep him constantly watered and he has a cold end and heated end of the tank. Should I take him to my local snake expert? I'm only 13 and I've asked my parents about what to do and they said I should get some advice first and they will take me to the snake expert soon. I am extremely worried and I love him dearly.
Grace
I don't understand 12 1/2 inches? How big is the 18 month old snake? I would give it some time, with the milky eye it's probably going to shed. How long has it had milky eyes? Are the temps good? Humidity? It sounds like you have everythign good, but are the temps and humidity acurately read? Has the snake shed recently, where it could be retained eyecaps? A reptile vet may be a good option, but I wouldn't worry too much unless the snake is losing weight.
i noticed you answered a question about digestion. my ball python just had that problem today. he only half digested his mouse. im pretty sure its heating issues. if it is, and i make sure his cage is warmer, will he be okay? there's really no vets in my area that help reptiles. nor do i really have the money for a vet bill.
By making sure the temps are accurate you can potentially fix the concern. If it is an underlyin condition, then a vet would be the only person to diagnose and treat it. If it's serious and you don't go to a vet, then the snake may not fair well. Just try getting the temps accurate first.
Hi Whitney! We have a male BP, approx 5-6 yrs old, approx 4 ft long. He has been making quite loud noises at night, it actually woke my son up! It's not a continuous noise, just periodically and I've neve noticed it during the day. Do BP's ever make noises or is this a problem...? Thanx!!
No noises during the day because BPs are nocturnal. The noises that you do hear are probably the snake crawling around and bumping into things. Mine frequently crawls all over the place and falls from against the walls of the tank, making loud noises as he falls. Other than that, the BP shouldn't really be making any noises.
Thanks for your quick response! It's definitely NOT falling noises. I'm going to have to do a stake-out and see if the sound might actually be coming from a critter outside my son's window. Snakes can't make noises with their throat right?
Hi again. Any thoughts on how to get the eye caps off our BP? We soaked him and rolled the tape across his eyes but they are really stuck. He is hungry and needing to eat tomorrow so should I go ahead and feed him since his eyes aren't actually milky anymore? Thanx!!
Typically, a healthy snake isn't going to make noises out of it's throat. What kind of noise is it? Noises from the throat can indicate respiratory infection.
Are they retained? Showing a blue tint to the eye? You can try feeding with the eyecaps on, and just wait it out to see if the snake sheds them next time. If they are still retained after the next shed, definitely consult a vet as noises from a snakes throat plus constant retained eyecaps can pose health concerns.
my royal python isnt eating at the moment and when he seems to be trying to poo there is a kind of red ball hanging out of his bum. i am starting to get worried because he wont eat he seems to not know its his food. is there anything you could suggest on these matters?
The red ball sounds like a prolapse. You can try soaking in sugar water, but depending on how bad it is, you may have to see a vet to surgically correct it. Make sure your temps are accurate and that your BP has available water at all times. He could be dehydrated.
It is quite big about the size of a small chewing gum ball, it is only there when he tries to poop or wee. He has water all the time and the temperature is fine. would you have any idea why hes not eating or if there is anything i can do to help him eat. if you do could you please let me know. Thanks
It really sounds like a prolapse. As for the eating, could be inaccurate temps. Could be illness. Could be the possible prolapse causing him not to want to eat. I would definitely try to correct the prolapse. If you notice any weight loss, you'll want to try to force feed.
How do i soak it in sugar water when the prolapse isnt showing untill he tries to poo or wee, does it really matter? I tried to force feed a few times but he just opens his mouth and then pulls away.
Hm.. that could be hard to do, Either way, what you're seeing is not good, and it shouldn't happen. You sometimes have to force feed, meaning actually force the thawed frozen mouse (mice are easier to force feed) into the snake's mouth and down the throat. If you don't feel comfortable, a qualified vet can always assist and show you how to properly do it.
ok thanks ill try that and ill let you know how it goes. have you ever had a problem like this with your BP?
In terms of not eating or the prolapse? Not eating, on occassion typically due to weather changes. Prolapsing, no.
i i have 3bps i notice that the 2 small ones keep making a hissing like noise and keeping their mouths open for periods at a time i also notice like bubbles coming from the mouth what seems to be the problem anyone knows
Sounds like upper respiratory infection. You should consult a vet.
I just bought a 6yr old ball python and he is the sweetest thing. But now I am reading that I should feed him dead/frozen rats? What? Why? Do I need to de-thaw it like frozen chicken? Or just give it to him right out of the container. Can I feed him live rats? His first feeding will be next friday. I can't bring myself to kill a rat for him. Help!
You have to thaw out the frozen rat in hot water until it is hot all the way through.
Thawed/frozen is safer than feeding live because live rats can and will bite. In some cases rats can injure snakes. Many snakes will prefer live, although it is not the safest. What has the snake been feeding on?
So I called the reptile store I got him from and asked and they have been feeding him freshly killed rats and offered to just do it for me. They recommended not feeding him frozen so that question is answered. But now I just wanna ask advice about soaking. Since he is still getting used to his new home and me, is it a bad idea for me to soak him. To me his skin doesn't have that wet shinny look to him and he just shed about 2 weeks ago. I can tell cause he still has a little skin left on his eyes. But i'm trying to get the humidity up in his tank also so maybe that will help. I dunno. I'm just focused on making him a happy snake. So any other suggestions you can give to help me do that will be greatly appreciated. Thanks much :)
Frozen is good, but the pet store is right in the freshly killed is better because you know that the rat still has all it's high nutrients. Sometimes it's hard to gauge that with frozen.
I would leave him be for now. If you have a big enough bowl in the tank for the snake to soak in, the humidity will rise a little and the snake will be able to soak when he wants to.
Hey, my ball python didn't shed on the very tip of his tail, should I wait until the next shed or give him another bath?
You can either wait or soak the BP in lukewarm water and gently try to remove it.
If you own dogs how will this effect the snake? Can the snake become use to them?
Hopefully, the snake will put put in an aquarium for most of them. When out of the aquarium, don't let the snake free-roam around the dogs or anything. Even a female ball python (at adult length of up to 6 feet or so) will have no chance eating a small, 8 week chihuahua puppy. The dog would be more dangerous to the BP than the snake to the dog. Just keep the dogs away from the snake. I have dogs and a snake; it doesn't affect either of the species.
Hey Whit, im having a problem with humidity now. It would stay 60-65% when I used a slide on lid and kept a wet paper towel on half of it, now I use a regular screen top with locks but my humitidy stays around 50% and I still use the wet paper towel. Its practically the same lid, it just doesnt slide on anymore. I dont get why the humidity went 10% lower.
Did you move the gauge? That is pretty odd... I wouldn't worry about it too much. It could be the temps fluctuating causing a change with the humidity. Could be the water in the water bowl, too.
Hey there me again!
My wonderful BP has shown yet another problem! I am keeping the humidity and temps around the average range and the cage is kept clean, yet my BP has yet to have a normal shed. He feeds normally and isn't a picky eater anymore, he stopped biting himself, which is good and happend a couple times during feeding, but the shedding is becoming a worry to me. Not long ago I had him dewormed, and the vet gave me more of the ivermectin stuff for me to give it to him a few weeks later. His shedding still hasn't improved. Just today I managed to help remove the layer over his eyes by soaking him a bit and using a towel and allowing him to rub his face on it, which he seemed to like doing. Is there something I'm doing wrong or could be doing to help the shedding process become normal?
Also another thing. My BP just ate two days ago. Today I had him out and I noticed something that has never happend before. Before a shed my BPs underbelly kind of gets pinkish and then it clears right up. Well now my snakes underbelly is very pink in some areas almost red in other areas. The skin is still smooth and there are no blisters so I do not think my UTH is to hot for him, but I'm still worried. Could this just be because I fed him not long ago and just have never noticed it before after a feeding? Or is it something else?
Also, I'm using aspen substraight and he has never had a problem with that.
Thanks,
Kallie
Oh, if pictures would help in my describtion of the color of his underbelly, I can provide some.
I'm not really sure what to tell you about the shedding concern besides watch out. There could potentially be a major concern there. I'm just not sure what.
The underbelly could be where the snake just fed. I've seen many snakes, mine included, with pink bellies after feeding. The feeder may have been too big this time, which may be why the skin appears funny. When is the last time the snake used the bathroom? It could be a blockage as well.
If you have a picture, post the link.
Hello again,
I attempted my first feeding with my new 6yr old BP. He wasn't having it. I put him in a box and left the lid open so I could monitor and nothing. I closed it and waited and nothing. I put him and the dead rat back in the tank alone and left it till 5am, 12 hours later, and nothing. He sniffed it a bit and thats it. I'm gonna try again but can you recommend anything else. Tonight is one week later and I am going to try again. My second concern. He found a way to sleep under his water bowl. I have a lot of bedding in the tank so he digs under and pushes out a hollow and stays there till I move him. He doesn't like just being in his tank or under his rock/house thing. Maybe his house is too big for him? The other day I braught him out from under his bowl and covered his cage with a towel and he was fine. he climbed, slithered around etc. As soon as I woke up in the morning and took it off and turned his UV lights on he went right back under the rock/water bowl. So my question is should I take his hiding place away and set the bowl all the way down to the glass so he can't get under it? I am gonna try turning his rock/house toward the back of the tank so less light gets in but I dunno. Ive never seen a snake like this. I think I messed up buying a 6yr old instead of a baby. But I love Winston. He is so well mannered. I'm lost
1) they don't need UV lighting. You're wasting electricity.
2) Maybe the snake is trying to get warm under the bowl, do you have an under tank heater? If not put one on the other side of the tank. Improper heating can also cause a snake not to eat.
3) Take out some of the bedding, you don't want the bowl to harm him.
There is no problem buying an older snake versus a baby. Babies actually have more problems. He's just telling you that there's something wrong with the tank that you're not providing properly. Recheck the temps; that's probably going to be the main concern- proper heat.
Hello.. I am a snake lover, and I am looking at getting a Ball Python. But I do have one question. I have a 3yr old daughter. I have heard about salmonella issues with reptiles, and so I am not sure if my daughter is age appropriate for me to own a snake yet. I do not know if this comes from buying the snakes from pet shops (since they are wild), or if it includes snakes even from breeders. What advice do you have for me?? Thanks!!
As long as hands are properly washed before and after handling a reptile, samonella isn't as big of a concern. All reptiles have the potential of passing salmonella. You do want to stick with breeder reptiles and not those from pet stores, as the reptiles from pet stores commonly have parasites and other concerns. You will find a much healthier specimen from a breeder.
Hey there again!
I have good news! My BP shed regularly and it was right after the very pink underside issue I had going on. I didn't think he would shed again so soon but he did and it all came off for the first time!
I have a rather random question. I didn't want to take my snake to the vet to get its gender checked out and I know females are larger than males and I'm just really curious on whether mine is a boy or girl to estimate the length it will grow to.
My BP is approximately 7 or 8 months old. Currently it's between 2 and 3 feet long (really hard to measure considering he won't stay still long enough!) and weighs 8.2 ounces. I got him 7 months ago so I just assumed he was a month old when I got him at the pet store. (I call it a he). He didn't eat for the first few months I had him but when he did start eating (about every week sometimes a week and a half apart with feedings) he started to grow fast. The past two months he's been about the same length but is gaining more weight. (he was 6 somethign ounces now he's 8 something ounces from the last time I weighed him)
Considering his (or her) growth so far would you guess it to be a male or female? I have only had this one ball python so I do not know how much they are supposed to grow over a period of time. Though I did hear about 1 foot per year untill they reach full maturity was average, but just an estimate.
Any clue if he will just stop growing after a few more inches (like a male) or if its because it's so young and its growing so fast that it could be a female??? Just looking for an opinion or guess!
Females are typically larger and grow faster, I'm not sure about the ounces, as I typically weigh in grams. But if your age is correct, I'd assume it to be a female.
I've had my BP for almost a year, and he eats a medium rat like clockwork every 2 weeks. he is about 4 feet but i keep seeing people on forums who are feeding every few days. he had been eating small rats but i bumped him up about 2 months ago. Am i underfeeding him?
Hey again.
The 8.2 ounces is 232.466 grams. How old would you think a store bought BP would be? He/She was around 1 foot long and I don't know what it weighed. If it's a female, how big is the average size they will get and what cage size would they need at full maturity?
Josh, feeding every 2 weeks should be fine for a BP of that age. There is no reason to feed every few days unless you are trying to boost weight and size fast, which can be detrimental to the overall health of the snake.
Kallie, pet store snakes can be very, very young, as they typically come from wholesalers who don't care about the snakes; they can be anywhere from 1 month to 3 months old. Average females get up to 5-6 feet in length, whereas males tend to top off around 2.5-4 feet. You can get away with a 40 gallon breeder tank. I would say that it's a female, but it's hard to estimate without actually seeing the snake and having it probed. In general, it's hard to estimate on size and weight alone, as snakes grow at different rates.
can i bath a baby ball python?
i just got a baby ball python. She is 9 months old and i don't know if i'm aloud to bath her. She is shedding and her eye's have just cleared up. One of my friend's told me that when they are at this stage of shedding you can bath them to make them shed easier , but she didn't say if i was aloud to bath a baby ball python so can i bath a baby ball python.
Bathe? You can soak the BP in lukewarm water, but it's really not necessary. It can aid in shedding and if the BP is constipated, but other than that it's really not necessary. I wouldn't resort to it unless it's a constant problem. If it's a constant problem with each shed, then you want to make sure that the humidity in the tank is good and that the water bowl is big enough for the BP to lay in. You should also make sure that there aren't any health problems, as if the BP is ill or has any health concerns that can also cause shedding concerns.
ok thank you
hi there, another feeding question.
My bp started eating a pretty big rat, but not huge, but after reaching the shoulders, he spat it out. is this an indication that the rat was too big?
More than likely that is the case.
I have a question I hope that someone could help me with. My son had talked me into getting a ball python. we have had him for about a year now. Two days ago I noticed it looks like his inside is comming out of his bottom. Is this normal or should i get him to a vet.
Vet ASAP!!! Why have you waited two days? It's a prolapse. You should call around to find a local vet who sees reptiles to examine the situation and potentially surgically fix it, but until then you want to do 2-3 soaks in lukewarm sugar water.
Hey i just got my fiance her first ball python and i heard that you shouldn't handle them to often. how do you feel about this issue
I feel that what you've read is correct. I've mentioned it here too. Leave it alone for at least 5-7 days.
BPs stress easily enough, if you start handling right away, you are stressing it out instead of socializing them. They don't need socialization, as they are docile enough. Leave it alone for at least a week to adjust to the new surroundings and then start handling with short periods of time to start.
just to reiterate some of what whit has said for anyone whos is going to ask about aquiring a new ball python, get one that is CAPTIVE BRED. BPs at pet stores are between 60-100$, and while more pet stores are buying captive bred, i wouldnt trust most of them. If you go online or to a reptile expo you can find Captive bred "normal" ball pythons, (not the designer morphs) for as little as 25$ This often (with proper husbandry) will save you from dealing with feeding issues, parisites, and other ailments, its not guanranteed, but it stacks the odds much more in your favor. also, buying Captive Bred also helps wild populations to stay in the wild. as fans of these awesome critters, keeping them from going extinct in the wild should come before all else. This species is considered threatened in some parts of africa. There are plenty of breeders of balls so that one should never buy imported, or from pet stores that dont ABSOLUTELY know where the snake came from, "I think" isn't good enough, why risk the headache?
These other than colubrids are the easiest snakes to breed.Great hub.Loved it.Well,I love most of your hubs.
They are a good beginner snake but because of their picky feeding habits, most people aren't prepared or patient enough to deal with them.
Hi i have two bp one is 2 ft meant to be two year old male weighs 400grams, othersupposed female 1ft and a half only 150grams 18mths (are these small for there age???) he (larger)eats meduim mice every 10 days or so smaller is more fussy, fuzzy say 14days or more. Has just shed fully in ball!!! but have noticed only sometimes when i have smaller one out she squeaks...(best way to describe it) appears very healthy in every other way
Yes, they seem VERY small for their age, especially the female. A 1 year female is typically going to be near the size of a full grown male.
Sounds like you can bump the size of the prey; the prey can be as large as the widest girth of the snake.
They are housed individually, correct? If not they need to be. Also, make sure they're in appropriate sized caging.
my snake is a year and a half and 3 foot long, hasnt ate in 3 months, underbelly is pink and almost red, have blue light and uth, stays hid most of the time and is not drinking, soaked him while ago and hasnt shed in 2 months, no rep vet around here, what is wrong?
It sounds a little impacted. Try warm water soaks.
Well it turns out they are both male....smaller is eight months and larger is about 12. housed together as that is how i got them. Larger is on meduim mice smaller fuzzies... May try with rats to bump them up. Thanks for your advice...
It makes more sense for them to be both male. I'd suggest separating them. It's not a good idea to leave them together, even though they aren't canabalistic like colubrids. It could be why they're not as large as they may be. But being both males, at the suspected age, they're right about size, or average anyway. They are not big enough for rats, unless you use small rats for the older one, but the younger one doesn't seem to be large enough.
what kind of medicnes do ball pythons need when they get sick?
It will depend on what's wrong with the BP.
I work at a pet store and a ball python we recently received was not eating. A vet diagnosed it with internal parasites, and it was promptly treated. It has since eaten 3 times, has finally shed, is considerably more alert and is showing better muscle tone. I was thinking about purchasing her, and i know that you shouldn't handle them for a few days to reduce stress (about a week i believe). Should I wait longer before handling her to avoid stress considering her previous condition and recovery phase?
It's a good idea to wait to handle her, yes. Like you said, she's already going to be stressed moving, not to mention the previous condition that has already put some stress on her body.
Hey I was wondering if using medium sized fish aquarium rocks would be bad for my ball python. I know sand is bad, but i havent heard anything about pebbles>
It's not receommended; if you really want a substrate stick with aspen bedding. Just make sure that the snake doesn't injest any while feeding. What gallon size aquarium are you thinking about using. Medium may not be the appropriate size depending on what the gallon size is.
Hello again,
I am still having feeding problems with my 6 year old ball python. I have had him for about 4 months now. He didn't eat for 2 weeks after I baught him and was recomended by the petstore to try a live pinky rat which he didn't eat for almost 2 days. Instead he slept with the little guy but he finally did it eat it. After this I tried once a week for almost a month till he finally ate his first dead rat. According to the store he was on a routine once a week feeding of 1 med/small rat. But as of yesterday it has now been almost 2 months and nothing. I put him in a box and put him in the shower away from noise and everything thinking the TV or talking was bothering him but I guess not. My boyfriend is making me nervous but I don't know if I should be. I also feel bad about killing rats for no reason when he wont eat them. I think I just wanna do live rats. What do you think?
If he's 6 years, pinky rat is pretty small, but perfect sized to force feed if you have the experience. It seems that he is eating, which is good. 2 months isn't anything to worry about as long as the snake isn't losing weight, and at 6 years he should be of a decent weight. Why did you put him in the shower? I wouldn't go to live rats if he has eaten the F/T. You're worrying too much, 2 months is nothing for an adult to not eat.
lets see...where to start. ive read all over the place about different kinds of snakes but i just got a BP on saturday so ive been reading alot on them lately. it seems like different sources contradict others but your page seems to be helpful and i dont completely trust petco. the store feeds their snakes on wednesdays which means the first feeding at home will be tomorrow. they didnt know the sex or age of the snake though i suspect its a female. cant be certain though. its about 23" and is in a 55 gallon tank (doesnt seem to be overwhelmed by the size of the tank though i wouldnt know what to look for). has a good size water dish, definately big enough to soak in, aspen bedding, places to hide and all that. humidity is between 45-50% but as for temp, i dont have a thermometer at the moment. i plan on getting one tomorrow. i was wondering about a heat source. as long as ive had the tank, ive had snakes in it with a ceramic heat rock. but now im concerned since ive read on a few sites that you shouldnt use "hot rocks" with BP's. im guessing thats the same thing. when i bought the tank, the guy gave me a heat lamp and a UTH along with misc. other items. ive never used the lamp, i think it is way to hot. i could shine it clear across the room to another person and they feel the burn instantly...its insane. makes me wonder if the guy who sold me the tank literally cooked his bearded dragon. as for the UTH, ive just had it plugged in for a few hours and it only seems to get a little warm. i put a small amount of bedding on top to see if it would warm the bedding if i use it. it has no dial or any way to control the temp so im wondering if it even works right. it looks brand new but like i said, it came with the tank. once i raise the tank for ventilation (if i use that UTH), how much bedding should be in that section of the tank? also was wondering about lighting. i have a UV light that i keep on in the day and off at night (also came with the 55 gal tank...all for $30....unbelievable deal wouldnt you say? lol). some sites say snakes need to get those UV rays but i dont understand how it helps if the snake is in the hide box sleeping all day. but as soon as i turn it off at night, the snakes out and roaming the tank. i got a pamphlet at the store that says to use a black or infrared light to view at night. well, the tank is in my bedroom which i share with two brothers so its hard to keep the light off from dusk til dawn. should i find something to cover the tank with somewhat or should that be fine?
thanks for your time
You need the digital thermometer with a probe. The ceraminc heat emiter that it sounds like you purchased is actually a really good lamp that emits heat, ideal for desert reptiles. I'd say it may be too hot for a BP, but you don't know unless you're able to measure the temps on the surface of the tank where the BP will spend most of its time.
As for the UTH, what brand did you purchase? Zoomed is typically the brand that I recommend, but you can't really gauge what to use because you still need the thermometer. I would get the digital thermometer with a probe before you decide what you're going to do with heating.
thanks
i had the rock with previous snakes and they seemed to like it, but that was mostly with wild racers found down here in FL and theyre always bathing in the sun all day so im guessing they like it a bit hotter. its a zoomed brand. the UTH says Four Paw's Natures Heat on it. I didnt buy it, they guy gave it to me when i bought the tank from him so i had no instructions or the original package that came with it. ive been testing it all day with an empty 10 gallon to see how hot it gets. i put the UTH under the tank and put some bedding at the bottom over that section. then put some more bedding in the corner to see how cold it would be without. it just gets a little bit warm. obviously hard to tell without a digital thermometer if its good or not but ill get one tomorrow.
The heat rocks are not good to use with most any reptile, snakes included. They can burn their bellies and become seriously injured. The digital thermometer is the best way to test the temps, no matter how you test in another tank with the UTH, it's not going to matter bc you're not accurately reading the temps. Also remember that the 10 gallon temps will still vary from the 55 gallon.
well ive kept the rock unplugged for a while so no harm is done. i got a thermometer today and with no heat source, the air temp is about 79F. a little on the cooler side but im going to set up the UTH today. i have to find a way to raise up the tank for ventilation first. thanks for your help.
What is the surface temp? That's what you should be more concerned with versus the air temps. You can use tiles, small pieces of wood, cardboard, etc. I've found that tile works best because you can prop the UTH up on a separate piece of tile and it won't burn through or discolor too badly.
right now the air temps and the surface temps are very close to one another. about one degree off, 79.2F for the surface and 78.2F for the air. keep in mind there is no hot end or cold end. no heat source until later tonight. im about to cut up a 2X4 to raise the tank about an inch so i can use the UTH. is it alright to have one hide box right over the UTH as long as theres another somewhere else? and also, if i decide to use a lamp as well, that should be on the opposite side right...for the hot end?
Hopefully once you add the UTH the heat will bump up a good bit. Usually all of this should be done BEFORE you bring hom the reptile. An inch is a goo bit of ventilation; I typically stick with just a quarter of an inch. Yes, it's fine to put the hide over the UTH, as long as there is bedding and the space above in-between the hide and UTH has something to buffer so that the snake isn't lying directly on the glass above the UTH; bedding will work fine. I'd place the probe of the thermometer within the hide.
yeah, its warming up a good bit. when i got the lil fella, i thought everything was pretty good, maybe a few adjustments here and there but then i realized the rocks are bad and the UTH had never been set up. i feel bad that it hasnt been warm & cozy for him (or her) during the first week at home but it should all be settled very soon. and i assure you there is enough aspen between the hide box and the glass where the UTH is so its not in direct contact with it.
thanks again
It's a very common mistake, so to speak. At least you started making corrections sooner than later, which is always good. If you have any questions, just ask. I'm here to help as best as I can.
As far as bedding what do you recommend. I currently have that wood pellet stuff but i'm really not happy with the heat consistancy in my 6year olds tank. I have an under tank heater and an adjustable heat lamp. I turn the heat lamp to barely near medium and I come home and his tank is 100 degrees. If I leave it on very low or off his tank falls under 80. I can't for the life of me get it to stay constant. I want to use the white sand for his bedding instead. I was told it will help regulate heat on the surface of the tank especially under his hiding rock. Your thoughts please?
Aspen shavings. Try using a smaller watt bulb. White sand will dry him out, you don't want to use sand with ball pythons. I haven't had any problems with aspen. I have also used reptile carpet, but with this, you have to worry about the snake getting under the carpet and lying right above the UTH. As long as the temps on the hot side of the tank are semi-stable and right within range, you should be fine, but yea 80 is too low and 100 too hot.
I got 2 ball pythons (3 and 4 feet long)from someone about 2 months ago and they were kept in the same 30 gallon long tank together, and I sepparated them into their own 40 gallon tanks, and they're both eating now. It took about 2 weeks to get them to both eat, and the smaller one was as sweet as can be, but now that hes started eating, he has started trying to bite me when I reach in to change the water or put him in the feeding tank to feed him. The larger one hasnt tried to bite or anything. Could it have anything to do with them being kept in the same cage before I got them? The temps and humidity are right, and I feed him a small f/t rat every 10 days, and he is very active, but all of the sudden he's just started trying to bite.
I doubt that it was because they were housed together. It's actually beter to be housed separately, so you did a good thing with that move. It could be an adjustment thing, stress, etc. Are you feeding in the same cage that it lives? Usually, it doesn't matter, but in some cases it can cause the snake to try to bite when the cage is opened for any other reason than to feed bc he may think you're trying to feed. Usually that isn't the case, but it on ocassion it can be.
I feed both of them in the old 30 gallon tank that they used to live in together, so that can't be it, but his belly is starting to get a little pink, so a shed is starting, so I guess thats probably the reason.
I meant, are you feeding in the same cage that the snake currently uses as a main house, but I see that you're not. It's probably that the snake is going to shed, as they don't see well to begin with but have even worse eyesight when they're getting ready to shed. The pink belly could be food from the last meal or an impaction, which could be another reason if the snake is ill it may be getting grouchy bc it's not feeling well.
Hes eating and pooping regularly, so I'm assuming that its just because hes going to shed. His eyes are a little foggier then they were yesterday, so I'll let you know if he still does it after he sheds. Thank you for the advice.
That sounds good. Let me know.
i'm trying 2 get a bp but my dad says they sre too, big, (i'm probably gunna get one anyways) also a lot of comments said that they fed their snakes frozen/thawed rats, is it fine to always feed them live rodents?
Thanks
I would suggest that your dad is ok with it, as you don't want to bring it home and have to rehome it, causing more stress. It's better to feed frozen/thawed. The live rats can cause damage to the snake, and it's safer to feed F/T.
hello...me again. Im thinking about getting a ceramic heat emitter to get the air temp up a few degrees. shes been pretty inactive lately and im pretty sure its because its a few degrees too cold. She'll come out at night, but only for an hour or two and then sleep til the next night (unless i take her out, then she won't sit still). She stopped using the hidebox over the UTH when i put it there and started using the other one. The surface temp of the hidebox over the UTH is about 92-93F....she'll go in there and stay for a while if i put her near there but then usually goes to the cooler one at night. that one stays under 80F. air temp is just under 80F too. do you have any idea what wattage would be best for my 55 gal? Im going to get a thermostat for it too but idk what wattage to start with for the heat emitter.
can you have an outside habitate for BPs?
Mike, the ceramic heat emitters are great, just make sure that they don't overheat the enclosure. The temps do need to be raised a good bit, especially for the basking spot. The watt will depend. I'm not really sure. You may just have to play, and exchange it if it gets too hot or not enough. Use a digital thermometer with a probe and/or a temp gun to measure the temps.
Michael, you can, but you have to worry about extreme temps in the summer and winter. Some areas are not able house BPs outside. Generally, it's best to just use indoor enclosures. It's really NOT suggested.
My Ball Python has started sleeping under the little fern looking plant that is in her tank. She normally goes in her rock to sleep. Usually when I place her in there, she moves around the tank a little bit for about 5 minutes and then goes straight into her rock to sleep. Now she just goes straight for the plant and lays down under the leaves. Is there something wrong or is she just prefering to sleep there now?
Temperature difference probably. The BP probably feels more or less heat where it's at versus where it was before. There's nothing wrong, unless your temps aren't right.
Hi guys, first of all awsome thread!!!! I just have a quick question, My wife got me a Bp for my b-day last week. it's male 3 years old and around 36 inches long not sure on the diameter but i can find out if it helps. We just put him in a 27 gallon tank ( he was in a 20) i've noticed he goes and sits in his water dish for 2-4 hours at a time everyday. I'm just wondering if this is normal or if he might be stressed out and we should put him back into the 20 gallon tank? i don't think he's getting ready for a shed as his belly isn't pink and his eyes haven't changed colours yet. Any help you can give would be awsome and appreciated thanks.
We have a 2 year old bp and just today, we were feeding him live mice and he mis-aimed, i guess, and got the belly of the mouse. since that happened, the mouse got a hold of his eye and seemingly ripped off his eye cap on the right eye. is this a detrimental thing, or should it naturally heal itself after the next shed? what can we do to make sure his eye will be okay?
by the way, i know live prey is dangerous, but our bp is such a picky eater, he wont eat any frozens or pre-killed, so live is all we've got!
Eric, he's probably just stressed from the move. I'd leave him in the bigger tank, as the 20 gallon is too small anyway. Make sure that the temps aren't too hot as this could be another reason behind it.
ran and ash, it's probably detrimental and may cause long-term damage depending on how it heals. It's also why live shouldn't be used as a feeder. You can 'train' them so to speak to eat f/t even when they prefer live. It just takes time and effort that a responsible pet owner is willing to do. I'd definitely consider it with this mishap.
Thanks, for the reply, I thought thats what it would be..... I regulate his temps day and night, so I know it's not too hot. daytime temps range from 80-85 with a 90 basking area. Night time is between 74-77 with a basking temp of 80 ( gotta love digi thermometers eh lol)....
I've got another question tho lol.... the lady my wife got him from has been feeding him 1 adult mouse a week. Should he be eating something bigger i.e. a mid sized rat ???? The mouse just seems really small, not to mention I've fed him 2 adult mice in the week since we've had him. I have no problem feeding twice a week i just think it might be easier for him to digest 1 meal a week instead of 2.
Is it a basking site or the warm side of the surface thats 90? You want the surface to be the most important temps taht you measure, not the air, just in case that's what you are measuring. but yea if those are the surface temps, those sound fine.
you can feed as large as the widest part of the snakes body but no wider. Try a small rat before a medium one.
I've heard that it's better to feed them in a dry bath tub other than the enclosure so it doesnt smell like the food and bite you when trying to handle it. Is this true?
Not necessarily. As long as you don't have a loose bedding in the main enclosure then there's no reason why you can't feed in the enclosure. You don't want to feed with loose bedding like aspen shavings because the snake can injest it, and over time if that continues during feeding, can cause impaction, which can be fatal.
We have aspen shavings. So if we would like to start feeding in the enclosure would it be best to switch to a more solid bedding, if so what would you reccomend?
You could use tile or a rollout shelf liner. Reptile carpet is also an option, but the snake will more than likely go under it, which if you have a under tank heater can be bad.
What is the price range of shelf liner and tile? My son saw some hardening reptile mixture, i'm not sure what it was called but it was a reddish brown color and you mixed with water then let it dry at the bottom of the tank. I just want to start feeding in the enclosure so the cats dont get into the bathtub while the snake is eating.
The price will generally depend on where you buy it. I bought 10 6x6 square slate tiles for like $10 or so. I forget, I't been a while. I've never heard of that stuff. I'd just be leary.
RenaSherwood says:
2 years ago
Ball Pythons rock! And, perhaps, roll? But they are cute constrictors. Another excellent hub!