Goodenough Island, Papua New Guinea_Where Time Stands Still

Have you ever been to a place where time feels frozen, where beauty overwhelms you, and where life unfolds slowly and simply? Papua New Guinea is filled with such places, and one of the most remarkable is Goodenough Island.

Located in Milne Bay Province, Goodenough is one of the three largest islands in the region. Getting there is an adventure in itself — it can take 10–16 hours by boat from Alotau, depending on the size and speed of the vessel, the cargo onboard, and the weather. An airfield also exists, but most locals and visitors still rely on sea travel.

My family and I decided to visit relatives on the island. It was my first trip, though my partner had been before. After searching in vain for a faster boat in Alotau, we finally boarded a small supply boat bound for the Uniting Church Mission at Vailagi. The journey was long — almost 15 hours — before we finally arrived. From there, it was another hour’s walk to our family hamlet. Because of the heavy cargo we carried, we were taken closer to shore in canoes, a common mode of transport around the island.

We stayed in a small hut surrounded by trees, built especially for our visit.

Life on the Island

The southern side of the island, where we stayed, felt almost untouched by time. Compared to other parts of Papua New Guinea, this place was virtually unexplored and undisturbed. We were embraced by dense forest, calm seas, and the towering presence of Ferguson Island across the water, shielding us from harsh ocean winds.

There were no modern buildings, no visible infrastructure, and no amenities apart from the mission station. That station served as the hub for the island’s communities — the place for education, health services, church gatherings, and transport connections to Alotau. There were no roads fit for vehicles or even bicycles; only narrow tracks winding through beaches, mangroves, and swamps. Walking often took hours, and in the rainy season the paths became even harder to navigate. Canoes remained the lifeline for daily movement.

Village life centered around the gardens and the sea. On market days, more people came to sell than to buy. Food was plentiful and cheap — a large bunch of bananas cost just K1.00 (about US$0.50), while a live rooster was K10.00 (about US$5). Barter was still common, with villagers trading fish for garden produce. Staples such as yam, taro, bananas, and leafy greens were abundant, and fresh water was never scarce. Yet rice, bread, tea, and coffee were considered luxuries — enjoyed only when a working relative sent them from town, or when families endured the 15-hour trip to Alotau.

Though many educated people had worked outside the island, life on Goodenough remained largely unchanged. It felt as though the island itself absorbed outside influences and preserved its way of life, untouched by the modern comforts.

A Place of Renewal

For me, the visit was a welcome escape from the city’s pressures. Despite the exhausting journey, the rough seas, and the lack of modern comforts, I felt a deep sense of relief. The weight of city life lifted, and I rediscovered the beauty of simplicity — the fresh air, the abundance of food and water, and the kindness of people who seemed untouched by the outside world’s anxieties.

After two weeks, it was time to return to Port Moresby. Yet, I found myself in no hurry. Goodenough Island had given me a gift: a reminder of what truly matters.

Nature Quotes

Here are a few words from great thinkers that capture the spirit of my time on Goodenough Island:

“Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts.” — Rachel Carson

“Study nature, love nature, stay close to nature. It will never fail you.” — Frank Lloyd Wright

“Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished.” — Lao Tzu

“The richness I achieve comes from Nature, the source of my inspiration.” — Claude Monet

About the Author

Hi Iam Vivianne.