How To Choose Your Rabbit | Your First Rabbit | Rabbit’s Guide
The rabbit is recognized as the poor man’s cattle, for it can offer food and clothing and is, above all, reasonable to keep. Nonetheless, it’s imperative to bear in mind, that the rabbit is absolutely dependent on you for its wellbeing and that all its wants will have to be served and realized. You’ll need to analyze the rabbit’s habits so that you can identify any marks of agony and pain, and you’ll need to discover time for cleaning, feeding, and nurturing. Many a rabbit has been reckless perhaps due to the fact that owner has not been alert as to what pet care really means. However, if you’re loyal to becoming a dependable owner, it can be a most pleasing hobby indeed.
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CHOOSING A RABBIT
Rabbits can be bought from pet shops, show exhibitors or rabbit breeders. It’s worth noting that, too often, stocks which do not come up to demonstrate standard ends up in the pet shop. You can, for sure, communicate with your closest rabbit club or their main body, the Rabbit Council. All rabbit governing bodies will be only too happy to help you. They can give names and addresses of the closest rabbit club in your vicinity and also the nearest rabbit breeder. Much information is available online.
Agricultural shows are better places in which to check out a rabbit for selection. Don’t be scared to inquire any of the breeders to offer you a guided tour, for this is the best way to hit upon a rabbit you really appreciate. Rabbit people are only too excited to talk about their hobby; they are very congenial and will leave their way to help you.
Be straightforward with the breeder and tell him if you want pet, breeding or show stock. Show animals generally have very demanding standards—and are also more costly.
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DOE OR BUCK?
Stock is best bought at about 3 to 4 months old. At this age, the rabbit will be past the age of falling prey to the ailments associated with animal’s stress which can disturb younger animals, and yet it is still not a mature. Young rabbits inhabit a novice environment better than grown-ups.
Bucks are rather easy to train. Neutered bucks and neutered does can breathe quite happily mutually. Does live happily in small groups provided they have enough space, better still, if they emerge from the same litter. Some people suggest keeping rabbits in the colony system, but I don’t believe this is good.
It was until recently that the neutering of rabbits was first introduced. The reasons proposed for neutering by V. Richardson, in the paper Rabbit Health Care, issue I, Vol I, make exciting reading. By the age of five, up to fifty per cent of the female rabbits who have not undergone neutering came up with uterine carcinoma. Neutering also takes away all the behavioral setbacks including aggression, spraying, mounting and, of course, it thwarts unwanted litters. Neutered rabbits are also straightforward to teach, especially in the use of litter trays and, with bucks, there is little smell. Bucks can be neutered at about 3 to 4 months when the testicles drop down. This is either accomplished through a modest operation or, as is the practice in America, by means of a chemical injection into the testicles. Does are castrated at about six months. The smaller breeds including Dwarf rabbits can be castrated at four months.
Does Cost Affect Decisions When You Are Trying To House Rabbits Appropriately?
If you’re preparing to acquire a rabbit as a child’s pet, the most appropriate breeds are the Himalayan, which is a small, easily controlled and superbly placid rabbit with no vices, and the renowned Dutch rabbit (probably the most famous), which is also amicable easily-handled. The new breed known as the Lion rabbit is perfect, being small and placid and not too much expensive.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR?
If you acquire from a pet shop, you should ask to handle the rabbit in order to study it. The rabbit you acquire must be around 3 months old. Bear in mind, if you’re buying a pet for a child, it should be of a breed which is apposite in size and disposition and be easy to handle. Inspect for the following signs of an ideal health:
Coat Condition—is it tidy and sleek with health? Make sure there are no indications of mites, and check out whether the coat is clean around the anus, with no sign of diarrhea.
Eyes—the eyes should be bright, with no discharge.
Nose—the nose must be damp, but no discharge.
Front paws—check out the inside of front paws. Are they damp or matted? If so, the rabbit perhaps has a running nose, and is rubbing its nose against its paws.
Teeth—check to see if they are swelling, or are curved. A rabbit’s teeth ought to meet evenly. Young rabbit’s teeth are sharp until they become distress; after which they’ll again become even and should meet together evenly.