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Kawasaki ZX-14 Swingarm Extension Kit Installation

Updated on October 19, 2012

I wanted to do something different to my new ZX-14, without spending a lot of cash and would have more bang for the buck. I decided on stretching it out. I saw other bikes online, and it seemed to make a big difference in it's stance. The back tire was not all compacted into the rear of the bike.

Installing the swingarm extension kit on my 2009 Kawasaki ZX-14 was not that bad of a project. As in any bike or auto project, having the right tools, and patient is a key in the job turning out right.

The bike looks totally different with the 9" stretch, and handles the same. Actually it feels more comfortable and safer.

Difficulty Rating: 4 (1-10 scale, 10 the most difficult)

Tools Needed:

  1. Front and Rear Motorcycle Stands
  2. Motorcycle Lift or an auto floor jack, like used for autos
  3. Metric sockets, wrenches, allen sets, etc. 32mm socket for axel nut.
  4. Axle grease
  5. Chain breaker
  6. Chain tool
  7. Grinder

 

Parts Needed:

  1. Zx-14 swingarm extension kit
  2. Extended Brake line (apx 7 inches longer)
  3. Extended chain
  4. Dot4 brake fluid

 

Click thumbnail to view full-size

Steps:

  1. Remove Belly Pan.
  2. Remove Chain Guard.
  3. Lift and support your Kawasaki ZX-14 with front and rear stands.
  4. Remove brake line from rear brake caliper. Make sure you do not get fluid on bike.
  5. Remove brake caliper from brake hanger.
  6. Remove rear axle nut with 32mm socket.
  7. Axle should slide out with ease. You should not have to beat axle to remove. Support Tire with 2x4 or something so that wheel just does not drop.
  8. Slide brake hanger off while tire is being dropped and removed. Remove chain from around sprocket, and just let hang for now.
  9. At this point the zx-14 rear tire is removed, rear brake line disconnected and hanging. Chain is also hanging.
  10. Install new zx-14 swingarm extensions, tighten all the way, one side at a time. You should be able to distinguish the right side (brake) to the left side (chain). The right side should have a location for the brake hanger to adjust on.
  11. After both sides are tight to manufacturing specifications, Place some axle grease on the axle and slide it through the new extension chain adjuster block.
  12. The axle should slide with ease. Once The Axel and tire are in place slide the tire back, with the chain adjust blocks moving, leaving about 3/4" - 1" for room to adjust the chain. You do not want the blocks up against rear of the extensions with no room to adjust. Tighten down the axel bolt a little to help maintain the position of the tire. (I just hand tighten it)
  13. Once the tire and brake caliper and brake hanger are in place, cut the old chain by grinding down the edge of the rivets on one link. After they are grind down, use the chain braker tool to remove both rivets, followed by the link itself.
  14. Install new master link connecting the top of the old chain to the new chain. Pull the bottom of the old chain, which leads the new chain around the top and front sprocket. .
  15. Once the new chain is in place around the front sprocket, remove the old chain.
  16. After the new chain is in place and aligned around the front and rear sprocket with 3/4" - 1" space from the adjuster blocks and the rear of the extension, cut the new chain. and install the new master link.
  17. Adjust the rear tire to tighten the chain to manufacture specifications. You want to ensure both sides are equal in adjustment. Use the tick marks on the extensions as a guide, and also use a tape measure ensuring the same distance and in square. A way to check square, measure from center pivot arm bolt to center axle bolt. Also check your owners manual for chain slack.
  18. Spin and rotate the tire by hand and from behind the bike, visually looking at the tire and spin to ensure alignment and no scrubbing.
  19. Torq/tighten the rear axle bolt to manufacture specifications, install a new cotter pin.
  20. Remove the old brake line completely, and install the new brake line and bleed the rear brakes.
  21. You are done! Install belly pan and chain guard. lower the bike.

Comments

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    • profile image

      Brian 

      6 years ago

      what kit did u buy and how much was it

    • danfresnourban profile image

      danfresnourban 

      7 years ago from Fresno, CA

      I am curious how much a difference this makes with cornering. I would suspect that slow speed turning would suffer but at cruzing speeds it would not make a big difference. I ride a GSXR 750, no need to extend it yet. If I add a turbo or something then I might need to do that.

    • profile image

      zx14 rider 

      7 years ago

      "The bike looks totally different with the 9" stretch, and handles the same."

      In a straight line maybe. Cornering suffers greatly on a stretched bike.

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