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Surfing Kona Hawaii
Surfing Kona , Hawaii
Surfing Kona, Hawaii
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This is my blog on Surfing
Surfing Kona Hawaii
The name , Surfing Kona, Hawaii should of been changed to what a mess and how beautiful a mess of a trip it was, and I would do it again. In 2007 , while living in NorthPadre Island , Texas , I had saved enough money to be able to take with me a surfer from my Island in Texas to somewhere exotic , where you could catch nice 5-8 ft swells and be shot by a photographer,me, and on film for a movie. This is where surfing in Kona Hawaii starts , I met a young man on the Bob Hall Pier named Chris , and he had come up and asked if I was serious about my offer to go to Hawaii to surf the big waves, I informed him I was indeed looking for whoever took me seriously, I would treat you like a Professional Surfer with a nice place to stay and food and a new surfboard. He agreed ,and we set off Sept 11th , 2007, a journey to Kona Hawaii commenced and what a journey it became.
Number one I had no idea on how to manage a Pro Surfer or treat one for that much and never even had a contract signed , so I took a risk; I did not even know Chris very well ,except he was the only one that believed in me and what I was doing, Surfing Kona,Hawaii. Chris and I packed up for this tripto Surf Kona ,Hawaii and with a new Surfboard in hand for him and new camera's for me, we were on our way to a place I will never forget. We landed at Kona ,Hawaii on Sept 11th at Midnight and there is when trouble started, I jaywalked to the bus from the main Terminal and was about to be put in jail for this, not good. I was able to talk my way out of the situation, and Chris and I joyfully rented a Vehicle a, 4x4 so we could hit the North Shore of course, their are many North Shore's in Hawaii, I had picked the wrong Island. Mistake number 20 so far in this short version.
The Next day I was delirious from the flight, and drinking from the night before a bit, so we started out to find a place to surf in Kona, Hawaii. I got a map so we could not get lost ,and we headed out toward wherever, we were clueless, we asked several locals and they gave us the run around all day long. Chris and I decided that there was a rule about Surfer's from the USA , that we were not welcome. I figured out why later on about Surfing Kona, Hawaii and the not likeing of other Surfer's, it was because of the trash and beer drinking cans that most of the tourist would leave on the beaches and so they had their reason's,and it took another day to gain confidence from the locals.The Surfing Kona, Hawaii trip was doomed. Now when I say locals let me explain, the first day we drove over 300 miles of coastline going through all sorts of terrain and even sleet in the mountains, to Oahu, Hawaii, we were awestruck, yet my film idea was going down the tube, stil no Surfing Kona, Hawaii.
We found a place about 12 miles south of out Kona , Hawaii hotel , you will see in this short video called Black Sands National Park, if I remember right. The Surfing Kona Hawaii trip was getting interesting, Chris ,eager to try his new Surfboard out , informed me he would try to surf at this park. I was cool with that , I needed some footage, and yet it was very dangerous as you can see how rough and rainy the scenario was, well he got out in the Ocean and tried to get up, but the sharp rockswere in his way,and the surf was just not there, we had about three buses of Chinese tourist watching us try to pull this off,and some locals on the other side of this cove that were there for a few minutes. No action in other words , yet we did make historyon this Surfing Kona, Hawaii trip , as no one has ever tried to surf that cove because of how dangerous it was and this had gotten back to Kona, Hawaii via somehow by the next day. The two white boys decided it was time to pay for help in finding the swells, we knew had to be around, and I was struggling looking for a cheap way to the real North Shore, thank God we never made it.
I was in line at Taco Villa in Kona , Hawaii and there was a young white kid that should of been in school and I knew he would take me up on the offer to help us find some surf spotsin Kona, Hawaii,and he did, finally . The person took us to two places in town in Kona,Hawaii, and it was not the best place for us to be, we were defiantly not wanted there,I said screw it, we are Americans and so are they we stay, Chris got out to the Ocean and was pushed away by the locals ,and no shots for three days,basically,and no fights with the locals, yet.
On the Last of a 5 day trip to shoot Kona,Hawaii Surfing and bring back film, we found the best spot,and it was just a couple of miles from our hotel, go figure. We were misdirected the whole time, and I was down a bit because the weather was shitty and the light was not there, and no footage again, yet Chris got some good rides, I had lost him in the crowd and rain,the flight was to leave at Midnight back to LA ,and it was about 7pm and getting dark and cold.
Well we arrived in San Antonio the next day and had the longest drive I ever had back to North Padre Island, Texas and we discussed the trip and I was upset, and Chris was also, yet we did have a good time, I learned another lesson the hard way. The surfing ,Kona,Hawaii will happen again and I hear that Chris was in Iraq and hopefully made it back to home,just memories that I am glad I have on tape and they are in the video above,some of them.
I hope you enjoyed this unprofessional look at a guy,a photographer who didn't really know what he was getting into,and came out lucky no one got hurt,and maybe someone will learn a lesson from this story. It is a beautiful place Kona,Hawaii is,if your a Surfer you must consider thier rules that are unwritten,as a Surfer,and as a Photographer.