Natural Skin Peeling Soap Using Oat & Goat Milk - A Tutorial

This is a very simple recipe for those wondering, do we really have to use 5-8 different oils to make a really moisturizing soap? My answer to that is yes, if you do not know how to make a balanced recipe, then stick to the rules. In this recipe we are going against most traditional soap makers will not do, using more than 30% of Coconut Oil. We will try to balance the drying effect of using coconut oil when combined with lye on a very high amount, by discounting our lye. In short, we are going to superfat high, as high as 30% SF.

Now, here’s the interesting part. I made a batch, unscented, and used it, after towel drying, my skin was peeling, the bonds of the skin went off and this made my skin peel. With goat milk soap alone even if it's 100% fresh goat milk won't make my skin peel. Not in this country, lol! But, whenever I'm in Manila, Philippines, my goat milk soap is enough to do the trick.

Try your soap after 3-4 days of curing. Rub it on your arms (of course wet, & lather first), give it a good 1-2 minutes and towel dry, see how your dead skin peels off. It’s like using an expensive ‘Natural Kojic Soap’. If you have dry flaky skin, just like mine, because of the weather, this peeling will be very visible. For those that are not very dry but, wanted a skin whitening alternative, this should work after 2-3 days of using the soap. Continue use will give smoother, even toned skin. Always use a moisturizer after shower, you don't want people to notice those peeling and be all white from it.

In all my soap making workshops, whenever I was invited for a soap making group workshop, I would always encounter and would always request for a skin peeling soap. Being a country that is mad on skin whitening, Kojic Acid Soap was always the request. So, that would always be our free recipes and then goat milk soap. Kojic Acid is natural as well, but it is dear, and for a batch you would need 4% of it to work on your soap. Making one skin peeling soap like oat & goat milk combination will be ideal alternative.

Step 0 COLD PROCESS: Be patient on this, ‘trace’ will not come easy.

Ingredient Preparation: Weigh every ingredient.

Step 1 Weigh coconut oil, melt on a double boiler or a microwave safe/heat safe pot, once melted, add in shea butter and let dissolve completely.

1,187g Coconut Oil

62.5g Shea Butter

Step 2 LYE Prep: Weigh out your lye.

Add Lye/Caustic Soda here-for LYE-Oat Water Solution):

312.5g {Slushy or frozen Oat Milk} - Stir until clear & all lye crystals are dissolved.

If still needed and you did not freeze your oat milk, cool the temperature down by placing the lye-oat milk solution on a basin full of water, it should take less than an hour because your oils were heated, make sure they are of basically similar temperature.

Step 3 Check temperature of both OILS & LYE-Oat milk Solution. Both should at least be 100 deg Fah, or temperature must be at least of the same range. This is important for proper saponification process. Without a digital thermometer, you may opt to set into ‘Room Temperature.’

Step 4 Then, add Lye-Oat Milk Solution to your mixed oils in the soap pot. Stirring manually and stick blending in an On & Off technique. Bring to light trace.

Step 5 @ Light Trace, add in the following, one by one, stirring manually and stick blending in On & Off technique (alternating this technique).

125g 25g Oat Milk + 100g Fresh Goat Milk + *Natural Preservatives

62.5g Vegetable Glycerin

1 tsp Vit E Oil

50g FRAGRANCE or Essential Oil

Step 6 Satisfied that every ingredient was fully incorporated, at medium trace you may pour on your soap mould. Cover with a piece of cardboard, leaving a small vent. After an hour, check your soap for any cracks, if there are cracks running through, leave the soap to gel and with a small vent on another end. We’re basically trying to manipulate too much heat from the soap batter.

Then after 2-3 hours, insulate your soap and cover with tea towels to avoid heat escaping from the mixture. This will ensure an even distribution of heat for proper saponification.

Step 7 Unmould after 24 hours. Cut, stamp if desired, and let cure for 4-6 weeks. Your soap can actually be used after 1 week, the longer you cure them, the milder and economical your soap bars will be.

Please check out my link for a step by step, Natural Guava & Chamomile Feminine Wash:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIn6CrCqojs

Do you want the full recipe of this tutorial in PDF?

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...be caressed by nature & be beautiful!

-Lee S

www.caressedbynature.net.au