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Our National Parks: An Hour Inside a Glacial Ice Cave

Updated on December 17, 2016
juneaukid profile image

Richard F. Fleck has always been an advocate of outdoor teaching and outdoor writing with a pencil and notepad on hand in the field.

Highly Glaciated Mount Rainier

Looking out of ice cave
Looking out of ice cave
Ice Cave Entrance
Ice Cave Entrance

An Hour Inside a Glacial Ice Cave*

I was excited about leaving the bowels of a university library doing research on John Muir. I was in dire need of the relief of mountain wilderness. Mount Rainier, with its fifty glaciers kissing the sky, seemed to be just the right place. It is one thing to read Muir's fascinating accounts of crossing rough glaciers with crevasses and streaks of mountain debris, and it is quite another to heed Muir's call to go out and experience the mountains.

As I hiked up Mount Rainier"s Paradise Glacier (90 miles east of Seattle) with its scores of eery and gurgling ice caves, rocks tore loose from the flanks of the mountain and cracked down sheer cliffs to the wrinkled ice not far from where I stood. I began to sense a living presence in the mountain by spending time on the surface of what John Muir called "God's ice tool."

But, once I spotted the entrance to an ice cave carved out by a gushing stream, I thought I might explore inside of a blue-hued ice cave. Before I entered the cave I enjoyed a glacial symphony. Rivulets trickled, gurgled and dripped sounding something like the abstract expressionistic music of Arnold Schoenberg. My mother, sitting on an ox-horn stool at my father's 1940s Parnassus Bookshop in Princeton, always used to say that she hated Schoenberg's music. But had she heard these irregular glacial drippings, who knows what she would have thought? Schoenberg himself was Austrian. Had he been inspired by irregular glacial drippings? Another cascade of falling rocks disrupted by day-dreaming and I quickly entered the cave.

Gingerly, I crawled deep into the hole some ten feet below within the ridged roof of a gian'ts mouth. But from here I could still see shining daylight back at the entrance. Hunching over, I took several hundred steps into a bluish-white ice cave until I could no longer see the sky! Sitting down on an exposed rock fifteen feet or so under the base of Paradise Glacier, all sorts of thoughts flooded througfh my mind. Even though I was as removed from humanity as I possibly could be, in here I felt a very strong sense of community. It was as though the stones in the stream were given eyes, and the icy water itself were given ears, and the lumpy inner layers of ice--a heart. My humanity became its voice, and its mountaineity became my mode of expression. Time sped by quite quickly during my period of ice reflections.

If only for an hour or so inside this ice cave, I began to "think like a mountain," to use Aldo Leopold's words. When I finally emerged, Mount Rainier looked brighter than ever as did distant Mount Adams and Mount Saint Helens. By the time I reached my hotel several miles downslope, I began to focus more on exterior humanity.

* This is a modified excerpt from my book Breaking Through the Clouds (Pruett, 2005) and in my hopefully forthcomin expanded edition of this book.

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Mount Rainier

© 2010 Richard Francis Fleck


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    • juneaukid profile image

      Richard Francis Fleck 7 years ago from Denver, Colorado

      Thank you for sharing, Wayne Brown.

    • Wayne Brown profile image

      Wayne Brown 7 years ago from Texas

      I lived near Rainier about the time St. Helens made her mighty blast. In fact, I had been standing on a tree stump only two miles from the blow out site only two weeks before. Your description of the ice cave was quite interesting. Sounds like you are quite the adventurer always seeking new experiences...a great way to enjoy life to the fullest. Be safe and thanks for sharing! WB

    • juneaukid profile image

      Richard Francis Fleck 8 years ago from Denver, Colorado

      Thank you Debby, In some places (just a few) they're actually growing (Patagonia for one). It is curious that Mount Washington, New Hampshire is getting steadily colder with the tree line declining down hill every twenty years on so. But in Alaska they sure are melting fast.

    • Debby Bruck profile image

      Debby Bruck 8 years ago

      Wow! This is incredible. I was just watching about the glaciers melting at an incredible fast rate.

    • juneaukid profile image

      Richard Francis Fleck 8 years ago from Denver, Colorado

      Yes, there's always a risk in doing something like that Dolores Monet. I don't know if I'd do that now.

    • Dolores Monet profile image

      Dolores Monet 8 years ago from East Coast, United States

      Kid, I'd be scared to death to go into any kind of cave, especially an ice cave. But I guess you have to have some guts to earn that kind of reward. Sounds like a transendental experience.

    • Hello, hello, profile image

      Hello, hello, 8 years ago from London, UK

      Thank you, juneaukid, for sharing another lovely journey. The mountains definitely have there own beauty and serenity.

    • dohn121 profile image

      dohn121 8 years ago from Hudson Valley, New York

      You are a man that recognizes beauty in each and every place you've visited. This was truly inspiring, juneaukid. Thank you again for your beautiful and intriguing account.

    • juneaukid profile image

      Richard Francis Fleck 8 years ago from Denver, Colorado

      Thank you for your commentary glassvisage. It is quite a feeling to be inside an ice cave!

    • glassvisage profile image

      glassvisage 8 years ago from Northern California

      This looks fantastic, and certainly an adventure I'd like to try. Your poetic words really help to illlustrate the experience. You are a good authority on the subject of trying new things and going to amazing places in the world. Thank you!