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Come to Alaska: I Sailing South from Juneau

Updated on February 10, 2016

Sawyer Glacier, photo by Richard Fleck

Sailing South from Juneau

Sailing South from Juneau

Enjoying Juneau Harbor's blinking lights, I ambled down to the dock where my fishing boat cruise would begin the next morning to Sum Dum Bay and Tracy Arm and tried to imagine what landscapes I would see. In preparation for my trip I had read two companion volumes, John Muir's Travels in Alaska (1916) and Samuel H. Young's Alaska Days with John Muir (1915). The Tlingit and Tsimshian Indians in those days (1880's) were in the process of learning English and a new religion from Protestant missionaries like Samuel Hall Young whom John Muir had befriended. Muir explains in his book that he wanted to hire several Indian guides (in whose stories and conversations he delighted) to go into the back country where he could explore glaciers. The Tlingits suggested the names of a few and Sitka Charley who would be the best for that purpose because he "hi yu kumtux wawa Boston--knew well how to speak English."

Dawn came bright and clear up in the panhandle of Alaska. About twelve of us boarded the "Riviera" skippered by a young man called Rusty from Cape Cod; we soon left the harbor behind us. Sitka-studded Admiralty Island looked like a Rockwell Kent etching with snow-capped peaks flanked by feathery clouds of silver. On the mainland side we could make out Taku Inlet but not the receded Taku Glacier. On another day I would take a seaplane over the immense Juneau Icefields and the crinkly surface of Taku Glacier to land on a marshy inlet and tramp the lush forests for several hours. On that flight I would catch a glimpse of what most of North America looked like at the height of the Wisconsin Ice Age.

As our craft plied through waters beyond Taku Inlet, we passed numerous crab boats hauling in their catch with big nets. Within an hour we entered Sum Dum Bay as Muir had done well over a hundred years earlier. We gazed at the "hanging" Sum Dum Glacier in cloudy mountains south of Tracy Arm fiord. Quickly granite walls engulfed us rising straight up to glaring snowfields. Stream of water hurled through space down to the green waters of the fiord. Bright blue icebergs drifted past as we closed in on a tell-tale cliff carved and scratched by myriads of slow-moving glaciers of yore. Following Ralph Waldo Emerson's lead, Muir called these scratches "glacial hierogylphics" because they surely furnished as much geologic information as the Egyptian Rosetta Stone furnished linguistic knowledge.

Approaching South Sawyer Glacier, we amused ourselves watching jet-black seals sunbathing on bright blue icebergs, blue being the only color refracted out of their dense masses. Our ship came to within a hundred yards of the glacier looking like an arched blue planet all its own. A sudden thunderous boom startled us as a huge chunk of ice broke off the edge of the glacier and splashed down into a narrow bay. The Tlingit words Sum Dum are apt. The berg makes the sound SUM, and the echoing cliffs DUM! Aquamarine and copper-colored chunks of ice bobbed all around the glistening new berg. Here we could easily envision future yosemites. Samuel Hall Young writes in Alaska Days with John Muir, "Glaciers were Muir's special pets, his intimate companions, with whom he held sweet communion. Their voices were plain language to his ears, their work, as God's landscape gardeners, of the wisest and best that Nature could offer."

We sailed silently through a fiord as mesmerizing as the floating swan's down of the Nishkiya ceremony that a tribal elder spread into the air to open a dance ceremony the evening before. In the silence I imagined an Indian's voice singing from the top of some immense summit. By now we had become accustomed to a world of dark blue ice, hieroglyphic cliffs, and rivers falling out of the sky. But we were in store for something more. Just off Admiralty Island a humpback whale rose out of the water to flap his tail fin so forcefully it sounded like a cannonade. His gigantic body rose and splashed several times before disappearing southward. Too quickly Juneau Harbor, dominated by Mount Juneau and Mount Roberts, came into view.

See my hub Walking North from Juneau

Juneau Area

© 2009 Richard Francis Fleck

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    • juneaukid profile image
      Author

      Richard Francis Fleck 6 years ago from Denver, Colorado

      I appreciate your comment jeremytorres

    • jeremytorres profile image

      jeremytorres 6 years ago

      Very nice article.

    • juneaukid profile image
      Author

      Richard Francis Fleck 7 years ago from Denver, Colorado

      It can get lonesome up there

    • Granny's House profile image

      Granny's House 7 years ago from Older and Hopefully Wiser Time

      I was living in a small village fishing. It was nice for a while. Got home sick. lol

    • juneaukid profile image
      Author

      Richard Francis Fleck 7 years ago from Denver, Colorado

      It's a great place. It was too cold and rainy for many bugs when I was there.

    • Granny's House profile image

      Granny's House 7 years ago from Older and Hopefully Wiser Time

      june, I too have been to Alaska. We loved it there. Except for the flies and mosquitoes

    • juneaukid profile image
      Author

      Richard Francis Fleck 7 years ago from Denver, Colorado

      Thank you Hello, hello--glad you could come along as a reader.

    • Hello, hello, profile image

      Hello, hello, 8 years ago from London, UK

      You had such terrific experience it must be unforgettable. Thank you for sharing it with us.I also like yur style of writing it is so descriptive.