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Travel in Turkey-- Fetiye, Kizkalesi, Ephesus, Capppadocia & More

Updated on November 20, 2014
rmcrayne profile image

Rose Mary, an Air Force veteran, was stationed overseas, which enabled her to travel in Europe and beyond.

I am writing this hub in response to ethel smith’s “invitation” to share more positive experiences on Turkish travel than what she and her husband experienced on their vacation to Marmaris, Turkey.

I was stationed in Incirlik Air Base, Turkey (pronounced like Injure-lick), during Desert Storm. I extended my obligation twice, for a total of 3 1/2 years because I loved it there. I did as much travel in Turkey as I could manage. I’ve overviewed some high points. I’ve made some attempts at phonetic clues, for pronunciation of some of the places and names. These are my own perspective, not a dictionary pronunciation.

Fetiye, Turkey.  Personal photo.
Fetiye, Turkey. Personal photo.

Travel in Turkey, and Fetiye

When my parents came to visit, a Turkish friend, Mehmet, who had a dolmuş (like a huge van, used for local public transportation, subsidized by the government) took us on a two week trip of Turkish travel. This was in mid-October, which was wonderful. It was still warm, but no longer scorching hot weather. Everything was still open (until 1 Nov), but not as crowded as during the summer. Memhet purposefully avoided Bodrum and Marmaris, both incredibly popular beach cities and resorts, but as ethel found out, very commercialized.

Our pick for “best beach town” was Fetiye (pronounced like Fĕh-Tē-ā, similar to the starting sounds of fetish), with turquoise water, uncrowded beaches, and mountain views. Fetiye is one of the places in Turkey where you see the burial tombs carved into the rock wall faces. ethel has a picture of these tombs in Marmaris.

Kizkalesi

Kizkalesi and Silifke

Mehmet and his brother had a pension in Kizkalesi (like kiss-că-lay-see) , or “Castle by the Sea” which is near Silifke (like Sĭ-leaf-kay) and only (a hair-raising) 85 miles from Incirlik, so I've been there many times. At that time, there were only older, small hotels and pensions there. Silifke had condos, but not the “little city” feel of Kizkalesi, with its shops and restaurants. Silifke did however have a large seafood restaurant that was very good. Still, like most of the beach resorts, Kizkalesi and Silifke were best in the off season.

We had many wonderful times at Kizkalesi. Another Turkish friend, Ali, would take us in his boat out to the castle ruins off shore, on its own little island. Mehmet would prepare a barbecue of kebap and köfte (kurff-tĕ).

Doner is like Gyro
Doner is like Gyro | Source

Izmir, Turkey

I love Izmir (Ĭz-mere), Turkey, which is on the Aegean. I’m not saying there are no beaches, but it’s not really a beach town. Izmir is near the cruise ship stop, Kuşadasi (Koosh-ă-doshi). I traveled to Izmir 6 to 8 times a year for temporary duty. I highly recommend that you eat at the Deniz Restaurant near the Nato building, on the “First Kordon”. Start out with the fried calamari, which in my opinion, is the best on the planet. Order çipura (like chĭ-poor-ah), which is sea bream, or grilled sea bass. Don't forget the chocolate soufflé, which you have to order when you order your meal because it takes 45 to 60 minutes. Canakkale (John-cah-lay) white wine is nice if you like dry wine. After dinner, enjoy walking along the wide sidewalk next to the Aegean.

While in Izmir, also make a visit to “Döner (like doe-nair) Alley”. I recommend the Iskender Döner, which is essentially gyro with tomato sauce and yogurt sauce. Be sure and visit some carpet shops. Sit back, enjoy the hot Turkish tea, called çay (chī), carpets, and fellowship. The Bazaar is away from the Kordons, and has dozens of gold shops if you’re into jewelry.


The reconstructed faade of the Library of Celsius at Ephesus, Turkey.  Personal photo.
The reconstructed faade of the Library of Celsius at Ephesus, Turkey. Personal photo.

Ephesus and Pamukkale

From Izmir it’s two hours or less to Ephesus or Pamukkale. I have visited (the extensive ruins of) Ephesus about five times because it’s so amazing. Nearby are the ruins of Artimus’ Temple, one of the 7 Wonders of the Ancient World.

For your Turkish travel, I highly recommend a trip to Pamukkale, and staying at the Hotel Pamukkale. The pool is always open and warm, and littered with ancient “debris”. You can visit the nearby ruins of Heiropolis, which has an impressive necropolis and small amphitheater. I was totally unimpressed with the food in Pamakkale though.

The hot pool at Hotel Pamukkale. Notice pieces of ancient columns in the pool. Personal photo.
The hot pool at Hotel Pamukkale. Notice pieces of ancient columns in the pool. Personal photo.

Museum of Anatolian Civilizations

Ankara, Turkey

I also traveled to Ankara 6 to 8 times a year. Ankara, the capital, is in central Turkey, and is a little more traditional than Izmir. It gets pretty cold in Ankara in the winter, and the snow lingers on the ground for months.

The food experience is very different in Ankara. Order the “rock” or “salt fish” for a large party. There’s another specialty that I forget the name of. It’s honeycomb and cultured cream, and you spread each on pita.

Get an inexpensive Byzantine rubbing from the Anatolian Museum in Ankara. I got a huge chariot scene for $10 in 1992, and got it framed in Adana for $50! Eat near the museum. There is a dish you have to order 24 hours ahead, where they put lamb in a crock and turn it face down in a pan with rice. The juices from the meat cooks into the rice. Manti, the Turkish version of tortellini, is also a specialty.

Climb the castle ruins in town while you’re in Ankara. Shop and have some sage çay.

History of Konya and the Whirling Dervishes

Dervishes Ceremony in Konya

Konya, Turkey


Konya is a few hours from Ankara. If you have the chance, go see the Whirling Dervishes. There is only a narrow window of time each year to see them however. As I recall, it was in winter. My physical therapist colleague and I took a tour from the base in Ankara while we were on temporary duty there.


When we saw the Dervishes, they started with about two hours of politicians yapping. Thank goodness I had a good book in my bag! The Whirling Dervishes were worth it though. I though the show was beautiful. I have included a video that explains a little bit about Konya, Mevlana, and the Whirling Dervishes. I also included another short clip of an actual Dervish performance, which is done by a group of men.


Cappadocia

Cappadocia is a unique and interesting place. The rock formations are referred to as “fairy chimneys” because the wind has swept them over time into a dome shape with pointed peak. There are hundreds of them, many of which were carved out and used as monasteries. Definitely worth including in your Turkish travels. Mehmet took us to a nearby hotel that had several fairy chimney rooms, so of course we had to stay in one.

Cappadocia "Fairy Chimneys".  Personal photo.
Cappadocia "Fairy Chimneys". Personal photo.

Thank You for Your Comments

Submit a Comment

  • rmcrayne profile imageAUTHOR

    rmcrayne 

    7 years ago from San Antonio Texas

    Thanks PiaC. I have written 4 hubs on Turkish food. Just go to my profile page and search "Turkish food" hubs.

  • PiaC profile image

    PiaC 

    7 years ago from Oakland, CA

    This a wonderful Hub! It reminded me of all the places I have not seen in Turkey. Thanks especially for telling us about Fetiye. Perhaps you could also write a Hub about regional food in Turkey? We loved the pide in Konya and the fish in Istanbul, but would love to know more about different styles of cooking within Turkey.

  • rmcrayne profile imageAUTHOR

    rmcrayne 

    8 years ago from San Antonio Texas

    Cappadocia is fascinating! Be sure and wear shoes with good grip- my mom slipped and almost turned her ankle. There are a lot of slick rock surfaces and uneven terrain.

  • Loren's Gem profile image

    Loren's Gem 

    8 years ago from Istanbul, Turkey

    Great hub RM! Haven't been to Fethiye yet but my husband had been there many times and said it's almost like paradise. We'll be going to Cappadocia though next month and will be taking my American in-laws to see the place.

  • rmcrayne profile imageAUTHOR

    rmcrayne 

    8 years ago from San Antonio Texas

    I only went to Istanbul once, for a Michael Jackson concert. Michael was in Istanbul. THey closed the museums on the day of his visit. He didn’t do the concert though.

    As far as shopping, I did my fair share in Izmir and Ankara. The shops right outside Incirlik Air Base definitely catered to what Americans like, so was much better shopping than you might think.

  • rmcrayne profile imageAUTHOR

    rmcrayne 

    8 years ago from San Antonio Texas

    You’re so right ethel. Mehmet was a prince. In the small restaurants and pensions, he would go in the kitchen to see if the fish was fresh. Or make the salad himself because my mom liked lots of onion. OR go in and negotiate prices so that the pension would not know we were Americans, and charge us more.

    I enjoyed Heiropolis, but the best thing about Pamukkale was staying at the Hotel Pamukkale, and enjoying that pool.

    I seriously recommend going in October if you’re going to the beaches.

  • rmcrayne profile imageAUTHOR

    rmcrayne 

    8 years ago from San Antonio Texas

    Kay and MOW, I plan to do more hubs on my Turkish travel, including personal photos, and maybe some home videos. Feel free to hold me to it!

  • Paradise7 profile image

    Paradise7 

    8 years ago from Upstate New York

    Great hub, great pics! Ihave an English friend who loves to shop in Istanbul.

  • ethel smith profile image

    Ethel Smith 

    8 years ago from Kingston-Upon-Hull

    I enjoyed reading your experiences. I guess a local host helped. We picked high sesaon and the wrong resort for us.

    I did like our brief visit to Fetiye. Pamukkale dissappointed but I think that was as it was such a long journey to get there. The tombs were worth seeing but as it was so hot we only saw them from ground level.

    I would like to visit Turkey again as I said, but different time and place.

    Great Hub RM

  • myownworld profile image

    myownworld 

    8 years ago from uk

    Wonderful hub! We've been meaning to visit, so as always bookmarking this. Loved that library of Celsius and Cappadocia looks fascinating too! Nice pics... :)

  • Kay Creates profile image

    Kay Creates 

    8 years ago from Ohio

    I've never been but I'm sure I would love it. I enjoyed the beautiful photos.

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