Depends on what you mean by goth. There are a few different types of gothic people. The ancient tribes that threw over the roman empire or the 80's movement.
The 80's movement was really about neither, but more of the music that was being produced by such bands as the Bauhaus, Sisters of Mercy, Siouxsie and the Banshees, The Cure, Cruxshadows, and so on.
The clothing became part of the goth movement via what the goth bands themselves were wearing.