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Go to Park Guell and spend a few hours. Locals picnic there and just hang out. It's got fabulous views of the entire city and you can spend a great (free) afternoon there.
Or, stroll along the docks and enjoy the water views. Do a tapas crawl. Remember: in Spain you eat when you drink and you drink when you eat.
obviously there is tons of non-touristy things, the hard part is figuring it out...
For a big and bumping late night club, visit Razzmatazz. It's large and full of locals. Usually entails long lines and cover charge. You can buy cheaper tickets in advance for special shows at FNAC in Plaza Catalunya.
Visiting the Gracia neighborhood above Diagonal for the evening gets you away from tourist traps and into some real chilled out locals bars. If you're not into the bar scene, just stroll these streets or post up in one of the many plazas. Meet the locals, enjoy yourself.
Take a picnic lunch, some wine, and a game or two to either Parc Ciutadella or Parc Guell. There will still be tourists, but lots of locals will be doing the same things as well any day of the week.
A 20 minute train ride north or south out of Barcelona city center will take you to some less crowded, less touristy beaches without the much loved "cerveza cola fanta agua beer" vendors.
These are just a few ideas. All in all, try to steer clear of the touristy areas (La Rambla, Barceloneta etc.) and you will eventually run into some real culture and excitement. Let yourself wander with an open mind, and never refuse any local invites.
If you do not want to see tourists, then just take yourself to Gracia. It is an area in Barcelona where all the locals go to escape tourist masses.
At the day time there is not happening much, but it is still very beatiful and there are really nice plazas (squares) where you can have a nice coffee or lunch in local tapas bars. Architecture is also pretty nice there.
At night time and expecially on weekends Gracia turns out as night life paradise and the best thing is that there are really NO TOURISTS. It is really a great experience to party with the locals. )
Gracia tour is good option; it's far enough from the center so tourists normally don't understand to walk up there.
I would also advise to do a park-tour. There are wonderful parks to visit besides Güell: try for example Labyrint park up in Horta. It is super beautiful and hidden in a way that not many people find it.
Barcelona is a large city with major tourist attractions throughout so it will be virtually impossible not to find yourself in a tourist area. Your best bet is to hit La Rambla but then venture off into the alleyways and side streets where you will find a large number of quiet shops, galleries and tapas cafes that are quaint, quiet and friendly. You will not be hounded by shop keepers or restaurant hawkers. I was just in Barcelona in April 2012 and these explorations were a highlight of the trip. Traveling during non-peak season is also recommended because there are obviously fewer tourists in general and the weather will be far less hot.
Parc Guell is a nice place to take a free stroll, take photos, etc. It is also large enough to make the crowds seem less overwhelming. The entrance is often crowded, but it thins out as you go and there are several points of entry. Not much to do in town outside of the Parc, so don't plan on grabbing much worth eating or shopping in any decent places, but the Parc is worth a visit.
Definitely avoid Familia Sagrada if you aren't into crowds. Ticket line can be 30-45 minutes or more, however, if you can stomach one tourist attraction, it is a breathtaking architectural feat.
Food is where Barcelona is at its best....and it's worst. I know a few really cool restaurants but 100s of terrible ones. Try and stay out of the centre and check out the food of Gracia and also Poble Sec. For a really cool experience check out www.eatwith.com, a new site that lets locals invite you to dinner at their place. Sounds crazy right! Try it and you won't regret it. I had the best Spanish food of my whole holiday while in Madrid and I see they are now in ITaly which is next on my hit list. I wonder how long before I stop even bothering with restaurants...
Anyway, that is my food insight for you in Barca !
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