When you run into the "HDD Not Detected" error, first check the external hard drive interface data lines to see if there is deformation, whether the connection spot have been incorrectly soldered joint. After doing that, remove the hard drive back, the circuit panels appears. Unscrew the control panel fixed screws; separate the main control panel from hard disk. Then you can see two of rows spring on the hard disk. One row is the main electrical power supply, and the other row is the magnetic head mechanical arm drive coil power source and circuit control board interface between the data transmission.
For hard drives with no special package, you can often see the dust on spring plate and control circuit board. Dips the absorbent cotton into dehydrated alcohol and then clean the dust. Check the deformation part and remove the oxide layer.
If the above treatment does not solve the problem, you have to open the main part of the hard disk. Go to a dusty-proof place, twist open the front hard drive screws (some fixed with adhesive). Remove the front cover, and then you will see the disk. First, use a digital multi-meter to test whether the head manipulator drive coil is open circuit, keeping mind that the normal coil resistance is about 20Ω. Second, check magnetic heads to make sure connection is disconnected.
Both sides of each disk have a head; each head has two connections on the arm receiving the head of integrated chip. The chip have a common model H1710Q, it transform the magnetic signals into electrical signals, and then sent the data to the circuit control panel processing. The head resistance should be between 23Ω ~ 26Ω. If higher, the head have been damaged. The head connects to the chip H1710Q, and H1710Q feet resistance is 1.7kΩ, if it’s 1.2kΩ or less then the chip has been breakdown, you may replace it together with the cable.
If the circuit connection on the head break, you can replace it with a∮ 0.2mm with high-quality enameled wire. Press one end of the metal shrapnel in the head, the other side of the welding is plated onto the corresponding H1710Q feet. Remember to stick the enameled wire in the arm of the corresponding slot, and use some 502 adhesive to prevent the hard disk rotation relative to the friction with the enameled wire. The various parts of the hard disk is restored, and finally use 702 silicone glue to sealed around the hard drive to prevent dust from entering. As the head size is very small, it’s not easy to stuck enameled wire in it, it is best to do it under the help of a magnifying glass.
Hi
I know it might be a simple minded answer but have you tried to set the drive settings in the Bios to IDE instead of SATA or ASCI
Wow, pretty drastic measures, especially when you consider that just opening the drive voids the warranty, introduces contaminants to the platters, and a whole host of other things.
Lot easier to have regular backups and RMA the drive if it's still under warranty. If not, buy a new one, they aren't that expensive anymore.
But first double check the bios settings. I have run into this with SATA drives and setting the bios to legacy IDE, reboot, allow it to be detected and then change the settings back often does the trick.
Also if you have both SATA and IDE in the same system you have to go through this process and allow the bios to detect each drive seperately. If you first boot with both installed it will default to the IDE and not see the SATA. At least this has been my experience.
Great ideas...But It looks like a typical task for someone to detect a site in that ways..can you tell us some more and easy, interesting ways to find out the HDD.
REPLACE YOUR DRIVE!!!
New SATA external drives are about $100 for a Terabyte. So unless there is something that you absolutely have to have on the troublesome drive - replace it.
It is the fastest and easiest way to solve most disk problems.
PLUS, a drive of this size can support multiple backups without a problem. Only fools go through time and space without backing up critical data.
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