So I have a '92 t-bird and a 2006 taurus, both fords. I actually like the t-bird better than the taurus, except for the fact that the t-bird is in need of another transmission. I lost the overdrive while merging onto the freeway during busy hour, mileage was just barely 138,000 miles. Now I am feeling the taurus transmission beginning to slip. Not often, but I know it's coming, because I just hit 140,000 miles! Why is it that Fords start falling apart when they hit 135,000-145,000 miles? And the fuel pumps, to. I have two friends with transmission issues on their ford cars.
Anyone else have this problem with their ford vehicle??
Have you thought of changing your motor mechanic?
I would be as mad as hell to have a transmission fail at that mileage, on a Ford, or any of the other vehicles that run the same trans because it would have had obvious symptoms of needing adjustments and services many times before it failed, and only an amateur mechanic or someone who didn't give a flying fig about your car would have missed the telltale signs. I'd say that if it has been serviced at all, it was not a "by the book" service.
The Taurus box may only need a band adjustment.
My son had a Taurus (I think it was 2006). Fortunately, it had leftover warranty on it when the transmission went; so he had it replaced. He was told a lot of Tauruses around that time had transmission "issues". His father found some write-ups about it as well.
Why do you think the acronym for F.O.R.D is...
...Found On Road Dead? or Fix Or Repair Daily?
There is a reason for that and you have two perfect examples why. The only car that I had where the engine blew up was a Ford Mustang II. My girl friend at the time also had a Ford that needed one thing after another.
The new Ford's are much better than the older one's, but I don't think I'd buy one (other than a Cobra maybe).
When I bought my Taurus it only had 10,000 miles on it. It now has 88,500 and the transmission went without warning. Coming home from the store driving down the highway RPM's got real high and started losing speed. As I was making my way over to the shoulder I put my foot back on the gas pedal and the RPM's were just very high, but gained no speed. I tried to manually shift and put the car in 1st, 2nd and then drive....absolutely nothing. The inside of my car is spotless and the engine runs great. I know my car is old, but the miles are low.
Don't know if it is still practice but used to called 'built in obsolesce', one of the architects of which was grandfather Prescott Bush.
Bellamie, yes, indeed. Just had a Ford transmission go kaput. The car only had 110,000 miles on it.
Now see, because they have over 100,000 miles on them, is it worth it to pop another transmission into them? I had an opportunity to have another put in for $1,175. or less. I was told it would not cost anything more than that, plus free towing to their shop, free diagnostics and something else but I can't remember what it was. Hubby says its not worth it , but I say it is worth it. Better than having to spend thousands more for another car, right? Oh! It was a 5 year warranty on the work and part.
Hi, I worked in the Ford Recall Centre for over ten years! and believe me when I say did we have problems with Ford Cars! I know you get a lot of recalls with other cars, but the way they worded the letters were hysterical sometimes! for example, a mondeo had a really bad brake system, and the wording went something like this 'please place your foot slowly on the brake because if you put your foot down too quickly you will find yourself slipping slightly across the road'! in other words, zip na na! smash turn over and goodbye world! but to be fair, we worked like trojans to get the cars back in the garage on time.
maybe i should get a foreign made car then. Any suggestions out there?
Are you kidding me! ford are the best built cars. I have Lincolns with 460,000 miles and still going strong. Last Lincoln, I replaced the transmission at 340,000 miles. If you flush the transmission with Mercon every 35000 miles and change the filter every 70,000 miles you will be fine. The engines are bullet proof. change the fuel filter and your fuel pump will be fine. Stop driving with fuel near empty if you want your fuel pump to last. Proper maintainence and your car will last. Otherwise more of these posts!
A good thing to do with any automatic car is to install an aftermarket cooler. They are inexpensive and will likely add to the longevity. Heat is usually what kills automatics over anything else.
Scheduled fluid and filter changes should be done with the correct fluid. The old days of Dexron and Type F are long gone but people don't always to what the newer requirements are. Different fluids will have different friction properties. A good way to kill an already fragile Chrysler tranny is to put the wrong fluid in it.
I don't like the "flush" services that the quick lubes offer either. A tranny pan will have a sediment slurry collecting in the pan that is friction material and some fine metal from normal wear. Most pans will have at least 1 magnet to keep this stuff down there. When you "flush" a tranny with that crud still in there, it's going to be washed up and circulated through the tranny which may do just as much damage as good. I think many transmission builders will concur.
The AXOD and its decendants in the Taurus were not great but Ford improved them over the years. The same goes for the AOD(E) / 4R70W in the T-Birds. There is at least 1 company that makes a "shift improver" kit for different transmissions. These are not for neck snapping racing shifts but they correct design flaws that are inherent in each respective transmission. A good builder will use these kits and/or other updated parts. I have had good luck with Trans-Go kits.
Another good option for T-Birds is something called a J-Mod. The is tons of info online. I believe it came from a Ford engineer and it will walk you through on making that family bullet proof, whether stock or modified.
Perhaps I could do some hubs on all this...
Oh oh! Did I just feel a little transmission hang up?
Transmissions have 2 enemies; heat, and oil breakdown.
Normally, I found, there's little friction - caused by oil breakdown, and just normal heat buildup in newer transmissions. Heat - your #1 tranny killer, is normally removed - by transferring the heat via a fluid loop going into and from your engine coolant radiator.
However, when transmissions pass 30,000 miles, wear causes more friction and heat developing conditions. They grow faster than weeds and maxes the heat load - beyond normal cooling capabilities.
Simply put, this means your transmission run hundreds of degrees hotter and dirtier. This weakens and even brings new, fresh oil to its knees - crying for help. You have no way of knowing it. Also, as cooling and friction grow, from 75,000 miles to 125,000 miles, their contribution to wear-out factors run at race car speeds - all this friction and residue drags and sticks and binds the shift process - "did it just slip a little, that time," you think?
I'll show you how to end those problems and extend the good life of your transmission.
Things you should know.
What's new to help your ailing transmission.
If you have a fluid change - to see if that helps, make sure they pour it out of a bottle, and not fill it full of reclaimed fluid - the common money making practice.
If you don't know what quality fluid was used, the web page below shows the Mega Power TS#3 "fluid conditioner" you can add to your fluid to instantly max its wear-stopping ways. This $50 product will end shift problems and avoid your cars $1500 to $3500 repair-heading ways.
Add that product to your transmission fluid, to clean, and max both its fluid lubing, and friction modifying advantages. Those are the only known heat-lowering products in the market place. Besides those benefits, this brand helps moving parts that slide, rub, and spin, to do so on a tough new smooth anti-wear finish - ending rough shift.
Those protective ingredients provide - the process needed to restore your transmissions health, and years longer, trouble-free life.
Warning. Warning. Warning!
Some shops suggest their solvent flush and transmission additives to remove sticky residues when doing so. Stay away from all solvent additive flushes - if you love your transmission. Solvents clean, but also destroy lubricity.
Mega Power includes a conditioner/cleaner - not a solvent, as part of the 3 item treatment that also includes the #3 item - and the anti-wear coating mentioned above. To learn more..
The two easy, do it yourself steps, and specific products I found that actually tune, cool, and restore shifting smoothness to any ailing transmission - are at this web site:<br>
http://www.auto-tune-up-and-repair-opti … itive.html
Get a new transmission, 90,000 miles is about to reach the transmission's lifespan
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